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PLZ

  1. Before I owned the M6, I used to have the Canonet QL 17 GIII. It was working perfectly until I stopped using it for 3 months. The shutter got stuck. When I took it to the repair shop, they asked if I have left the battery inside as the shutter/ self timer is very sticky and dry. So I'm wondering if I should remove my M6's battery when not in use to prevent shutter jam?
  2. Hello, I am reading this forum for quite a while now and finally got my own Leica M6 about two weeks ago. I bought the camera from a German dealer on Ebay, optically it's in perfect condition and I was very happy... until I got my first scans back. I am experiencing the worst front focus issues I've ever had with any camera. After the first roll I thought it's me, after the second roll I was suspicious and then shot the third roll testing the focus. Except for the minimal focusing distance, every single image is off. And not only slightly. Now my question to the Leica pro's here in the forum: How do I know the camera is the problem and not the lens? The rangefinder alignment "seems" fine - It's ok on infinity and the vertical alignment looks great. I did the mirror test (sticking tape on a mirror, focusing the lens on 1m, then bringing the tape in focus and focusing on the lens - and it does show 2m). If I focus on the moon (infinity), it's perfectly in focus. I only have a Nokton 35mm 1.4 which I bought new from a dealer. Is it possible that the rangefinder is totally off even though it "looks" ok? I am very reluctant to return the M6 because it's in such great condition optically. The only issues I could find is the long times are a little too long and dust specs in the finder. Everything else seems to be ok. Any ideas are really appreciated. Thank you guys! Johnny
  3. hello, I got a rangfinder fokos hfook that need a calibration. That means: if I look for a house in a distance of about 1km the weel shows 1,5mm above the line of infinity. If I look something in a distance of 75cm also the weel is 1,5-2mm above the line of 75cm. Is there anybody who knows how to calibrate this rangefinder ? I think I only need to adjust the weel but the screw in the middle doesn't turn... Who can help me ? please...
  4. I bought the APO Summicron 90mm new with my M9 last December. I could never get a sharp image with it and figured it was my inability to focus. I bought a 50 Noct, 28 Cron, 35 Cron and 50 Cron. Every lens is bightingly sharp and I can nail the focus of the Noct at f/1 just about every time. Thus my 90mm was left abandoned until May when I sent it back to Solms for adjustment. Two months later (yesterday) it arrived back. I took a few shots at f/2 at minimum focus distance and saw the crazy sharpness that everyone talks about. I then took some shots at medium to infinity distance at f/2 and could not get one that was even close to sharp. Even infinity seemed soft. The focus seems a bit stiff and sticky and that does not help, but I took much care focussing on each subject from in front and then beyond focus. This gives me a number of problems. I would never sell a lens in this state. All my other lenses are a picture of razor sharp delight on my M9 so I do not want Solms tinkering with my M9. Do I just keep sending the 90 by to Solms until they get it right. Would you do a series of bench tests to get a very complete understanding of the issues. Should I try the 90 on my MP and see if those results are sharp, or would that just open up more questions. Frankly I am so delighted with my 28/35/50 Crons I would not care if I never saw this troublesome lens again. Thank you so much, as ever, for your help. Ian
  5. Hello all. I just received a 35mm f2.8 Summaron with eyes for my M3 from a seller on the (in)famous web auction site. The lens itself appears to be in excellent shape - I'll be shooting test shots later this afternoon. However, when I mount the lens on my M3, the rangefinder patch is off vertically, but is on target horizontally for distant objects with the lens locked on infinity. The rangefinder is obviously perfectly aligned for lenses without eyes. Is this easily fixed? How much should it cost? Can I do it myself? I'll be very gratefull for any advice. Guy
  6. I suspect that the vertical alignment of my M8's rangefinder is just slightly off. E.g. I can read the text in a newspaper through the viewfinder, but it always seems less crisp in the focusing patch. Anyhow, I'm wondering how difficult it is to adjust the vertical alignment and get it dead on. I understand that one needs a special tool to use once she removes the red dot on the front of the camera. That's fine, as I can get one of the adjustment tools. However, what worries me is whether I'll be able to get the alignment right, as I'll just be using my eyes (with glasses) and no type of objective measurement. A question for people who have performed this adjustment themselves: How long did you have to adjust it? Do you feel like you got it dead-on perfectly aligned? Did you find it difficult? Thanks!
  7. Hi I have recently bought two Leica M6 cameras with various problems, and are wondering which one to keep. The best looking one is a Wetzlar M6 and has the following problems: - The rangefinder patch flares significantly more than the other M6. This seems to be caused by haze on the inside of the rangefinder window. My leica CL has less flare than both. - After the shutter trips, I am able to see a little bit of the seam on the left hand side of the shutter looking inside of the camera from behind. It is somewhat visible when looking straight on and compared to the other M6 it is a bit more visible in general. Might be a problem according to https://www.cameraquest.com/leicamchecklist.htm -Winding the shutter also makes a rubbing sound which the other M6 does not. - The other M6 also has smoother winding lever and more dampened shutter button than the Wetzlar M6. The other M6 is a big logo version made in the Sloms factory - The light meter on this one is sometimes off by more than 4 stops, even with a new battery. Other times it can be correct, but the arrows don't light up like the Wetzlar M6. I am never able to get the two arrows to light up evenly. One of the arrows is always stronger than the other. This means that the light meter goes from for example totally overexposed (only one arrow) -> a bit overexposed( one arrow brighter than the other) -> a bit underexposed (the other arrow brighter than the other) -> Totally underexposed (only one arrow). According to the manual I am missing the double arrows correct exposure light. - The white circle on the wound shutter curtain is also a bit faded and not evenly white from right to left, compared to the Wetzlar M6. - The shutter button on the big logo M6 is also a bit sticky after pressing or half pressing the shutter, making the light meter stay on indefinitely. - The 2nd shutter curtain on the big logo M6 also starts to creep in a little bit before the Wetzlar M6 when using the 1 second shutter speed. I hope you can help me decide. If both needs repair or CLA which will be the simplest and least expensive to repair? Thank you for taking the time to read through all this.
  8. Hello, actually on a trip in London , m’y m10 rangefinder suddenly stop coupling with my lenses. in fact, the little wheel wich get contact with the lens stays blocked on the infini. If I put it in thé right direction I can feel itsabnormaly hard to move. what happened ? CAN Ifix it by myself -? Is there a place in London where it could be fixed ? thank you for your help
  9. Hello everybody, this is my first post and I would like to extend a friendly hello to all of you and also to thank you for your time! This thread is not about finding the right screws for adjusting the rangefinder, but rather about one of them not wanting to move. The infinity adjustment (horizontal plane) seems to be a tiny bit out of alignment with my M5, and although it probably will not have a significant effect, it still nags me. One factor might be that the brass barrel of the lens I commonly use appears to be quite worn, so that when "freshly" attaching the lens, everything seems to be in order but never goes back to true inifity after the lens is focused to a closer distance and back to infinity, if this makes sense. Anyway, the screw inside the roller at the end of the rangefinder arm inside the lens mount does not move. I have tried several straight and angled screwdrivers, even filed one down for better fit, but still: it won't budge. I am afraid of stripping the head of the screw/damaging the arm and wonder: can or should the eccentric screw at the end of the rangefinder arm be lubricated in any way? Or will this result in unwanted movement/reoccuring maladjustment of the screw? When looking straight at the rangefinder arm from the front, there seems to be a small opening in the arm through which I can see the screw, which is why I'm wondering if it's meant to be used for lubrication purposes. What confuses me most though, is that my camera technician has adjusted the rangefinder several times already, and will most probably also have used this screw (although there seem to be other ways after taking the top plate off). Maybe I should ask him if he applied any kind of bonding agent to keep it in place. Although I'd wonder where he should have put it, since it inevitably would come into contact with the roller, inhibiting it from moving freely. If all of this is too confusing, I can add some pictures later for clarification. Thank all of you for your time and have a nice day!
  10. Hello guys, I found that my lecia m4 RF alignment need to adjust. However, when I want to screw the biggest bolt in the mount, I found that I can't screw it. It totally fixed. I google a lot of article, but I don't find anyone else has same problem like me. AS a result I come here to ask you guys; is there anyone had same problem like me?8
  11. SOS HELP!!! I dropped my Leica M4 and according to the NYC Camera Doctor repair team, the prism that creates the ghost image in the rangefinder is dislocated and needs to be replaced. They suggested that I send it directly into Leica for repairs, becuase the rangefinder is a complicated mechanism they wern't equipt to fix. They also let me know that Leica, located in New Jersey, dosen't do specific repairs and will want to do a full tune-up. Money is a concern, and I'm not prepared to pay $1000-ish if I can at all avoid it. I just want my range-finder to be functional. Has anyone had rangefinder work done, espeically on an M4? Would you advise having this work done by Leica or an outside repair person, such as DAG? Any experience or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. E
  12. Hi everyone! I know that there are already discussions on this subject and I followed them to do the vertical alignment procedure on my m9, but I saw that nobody had my problems, so I ask you some advice, maybe someone has had my same experience and can help me. This is what I did: I removed the red Leica dot, I dropped a drop of acetone on the adjustment mechanism of the vertical alignment and after a while I inserted the special tool into the hole trying to pivot and move the mechanism. I have not seen any drops of glue on the mechanism or anything that looks like glue. However, I noticed that the instrument was not gripped at any point and therefore, rotating the instrument, the vertical alignment mechanism did not seem to move in any direction. After some time applying more force I noticed a great vertical misalignment. Trying to recover, I could not move the patch anymore. I ask you if it ever happened to you or if I did something wrong. thank you Marco
  13. I've been having difficulty to focus both my life and thru the rangefinder, it is very frustrated. Forget my life, if I place a ruler flat and at zero degree toward me (12 and 6 o'clock) and see it thru the rangefinder from 45 degrees adjacent. The focus block that moves left to right sees the ruler at 1 and 7 o'clock which is approx. 10 degrees off clockwise. It happens on all my lenses, so I can presume that the rangefinder is creating this issue. I was expecting the image block is also at 0 degree. Is my camera normal or the rangefinder is misaligned?
  14. I received my M9 about a year ago. Right away I noticed that all my lenses that worked perfectly on the M8 were backfocusing. So, off it went to Jersey right away and when I got it back, it was all good and I was really happy. My M system has not been extensively, I would say about 3,000 shots in a year. Recently, I noticed that I started getting the same issue, albeit not as severe as before but definitely noticeable. Although I focus carefully the focus plane seems to fall behind the target slightly I didn't drop the camera, although I didn't really baby it but I never abused it; actually I handle it with sufficient care. When not in use, I store it in a protective bag. I couldn't think of anything that would have caused that to my camera. Has it happened to any of you and what can cause the RF go out of alignment actually? I am contemplating of shipping it back to Jersey but I would like to hear what others have experienced. Thank you, Joshua
  15. Guest

    M4-P

    I've been using an M6TTL for a while now. I got the chance to acquire an R3 Mot + 3 lenses at a good price but found them to be a bit lumpy compared to the M6TTL so I've just traded the R gear for an M4-P in really nice condition. Okay, it hasn't got a meter but a combination of sunny16 and using my Minolta Auto Meter IVf in tricky conditions will get me through. I love the feel of the M4-P and the fact that no batteries are required. Anyone else here have one? Any stuff to watch out for?
  16. Hey everyone, I just got my m2 off ebay and had a look through the viewfinder only to see 2 main very noticeable spots. I attached a picture and the one on the lower left looks much dimmer and looks like a dot and a hair almost? It's kind of light greyish and I think it's a particle or dust but I'm not quite sure. However, in the middle the speck seems much darker (basically black) and more prominent. Could this be separation or is it another speckle of dust (imo it doesn't seem like one). If this has happened to you or you know what it is, any input on how to fix or your thoughts would would be greatly appreciated! Also the shutter curtain on the front seems a little pushed forward and I can see the whole seam on it, is that normal? The curtain works 100% fine but I'm not sure if Im supposed to see the whole seam and overlap of the two curtains. On the back it stays slightly open by 1mm or so (didn't include a pic sorry)... should it cause a light leak? The camera was also recently CLA'd. Lastly, the viewfinder has some "gold specks" which I think is separation, but I hope i'm wrong. Please help if you can clarify, recommend a fix, or give any thoughts on ^^. Overall the camera seems amazing and none of the things I mentioned has really bothered me, but if I can learn more about them then it would be great. Thanks in advance, Ashley
  17. I just bought a used M5 and discovered a large translucent stain in the upper end of the rangefinder window. I tried to gently wash the outside of the glass, but it seems to be on the inside. Does anyone know what it is and potentially how bad or harmless it is for the rangefinder window? Should I try to return the camera or can I possibly fix it myself?
  18. I have a 2854xxx black M7 0.85. I have read about different rangefinders being built into the batches of the later M7. I see, that my M7 does suffer from the same issues, my 0.72 M6 classic suffers (whiteout, low contrast with strong back light, … ). Although I can live with that, as I am already accustomed to it, I am very interested in which camera I have here. How can I find out?
  19. adan

    M8 in the studio

    Some shots practicing my studio lighting and other skills. Leica M8, 50, 75, 90 lenses.
  20. After Disclosing to me that our family was in possession of an old 50's era leica range finder camera. There's no model type, on the camera it says "Leica D.R.P. Wetzlar Germany No. 415005." The cover for the manual is ripped of, So i'm not sure of it's actual model type. From some earlier research I think it might be a Leica III or a IIIf as some other people have asked, but mine also has a much lower serial number than those that were IIIf's. i fount this site: Leica Screw Mount Serial #'s Sorted by Number didn't have anything serial numbers close to the camera. Should I be looking somewhere else for a serial? My main reason for asking about this is to possibly find compatible lenses and other accessories for it. I have the original kit lense and as well an Olympus lens which was sort of a quandary to me that olympus was making compatible lenses with leicas way back then. If anyone could shed some light on this camera I would really appreciate it. On further searching it seems to be a IIIc. again any information on where to look for compatable accessories, etc... would be a huge help.
  21. Produced this story at the end of last week, with a Saturday game update... The stills in the video are all with the Mate - even the sports action (21, 28, 90, 135) - the gallery from Saturday's game is all M8, same lens combo. The tailgating alternative: Small college football - Rocky Mountain Independent
  22. I required a leica 1G with the rangfinder. Can you please help me out, how to attach the rangefinder on to the body?
  23. Skatafell National Park is the biggest national park in Europe, main reason for this park is third biggest glacial cover in the world, it is called Vatnajokul. Camera: Leica M-P Lens: Noctilux-M 50mm f/0.95 ASPH. Location: Iceland
  24. Taken only in candle light with no tripod. No crop, no editing... Camera: Leica M-P (typ 240) Lens: Noctilux-M 50mm 1:0.95/50 ASPH.
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