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Showing results for tags 'film'.
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nice to know they're developing new film cameras
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- coming soon
- pentax
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very nice
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My interests toward film are ignited again by my dad’s efforts in developing C41, ECN-2 and E-6 at home after his retirement. We talked frequently on the chemicals, processes and experiment the push process together. We now have succeeded in pushing the Kodak Vision3 500T to 800 and 1600. For me, 800 is enough to cover my needs shooting streets from dawn to dusk and the artificial lights. And I now enjoy the M4 more than the M10-P. We use a Plustek 8200i to scan. Okay, let’s kick-off with a frame. Leica M4, LLL 35/2, Kodak 5219@800
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- personal thread
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Shot film in the 80s and 90s (Olympus and Nikon) then digital only for past 20 years (including SL 601 since it came out) Loaded my Nikon F5 last year and loved shooting film again. Now considering an M. Have read and watched all I can, so understand the differences between the 3 currently available film M cameras but still undecided. Don’t mind black or chrome (and not chasing a BP finish). Have always had a light meter in my camera (apart from shooting my Dad’s old Ilford as a kid) but am attracted to the simplicity of the M-A. Areas I could use advice on include the following please: - quality control issues, not sure if M6 scratching film issue has gone away. - viewfinder, which is best? (My eyesight is ok but am in mid 50s). - reliability over the long term. Anyone else been in my situation? How did you choose? Thanks for your help everyone.
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Hi everyone, I’m about to buy as second lens Elmarit M 90mm. I’d like to know about your user experience with this lens and of course to see some pictures if it is possible. What do you like to shoot using this lens?
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Article on the Online Photographer website about a recent interview with Dr Kaufmann on a French website. Interesting snippets regarding film & digital M production numbers. PS - wasn't sure if this was the best place for the post - feel free to move it if it would garner more readers elsewhere.
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Taken in my home town. I found the Agfa quite grainy in Adox FX39 so will change to Microphen as a trial. The grain is no major problem as I can reduce it in Lightroom but it would be if I wanted to go larger than maybe 25x20cm. Leica M6 + 35mm Summarit-M f2.5 - Agfa APX400 Gerry
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- 35mm summarit-m f2.5
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Hello, I have found expired ORWO reversal, greyscale double 8mm film from 1967/1968 It has been subject to harsh conditions of heat/ bad storage etc For these image stills shared here, i have been hand-processing the films with D94 chemistry, re-expose them in Cairo's sun for minutes, then using D94 as a second developer without fixing the image (hence all silver halide should be consumed at the last step) I have the following questions: 1) Could you help identify the cracks/wrinkles? 2) Some of the results seemed really good at the re-exposure process (image attached), but then turned out less contrasty at the end results- do you have an idea why? 3) Do you have extra general tips on how to get better results/ clearer images/ better contrast etc? Thank you very so much in advance
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It was an ominous dusk with the rainstorm hovering. The old MR-4 meter did a great job. I was holding my umbrella in left hand and then did all settings adjustment with my right hand, which I’ve practiced a lot so it was not a big deal. Leica M3, Light Lens Lab 35/2, Kodak Vision3 5219@800
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I am a long-term M3 and Rolleiflex shooter, and for black and white am more than happy making prints in the darkroom. Shooting color on film is also fun, but developing and scanning, for me at least, isn’t. And I’ve been wanting to have the experience of shooting digitally with my M lenses for a long time. So last week I took the plunge and bought a used M10R. I got the silver version and am struck by how much it looks and feels like my 1960 M3. The simplicity of the camera makes me happy — I was concerned about being overwhelmed with menus — but I’m sure I have much to learn about getting the most out of the camera, about post-processing, etc. (It renders black and white beautifully too, but I won’t put aside my film cameras). Do any other film shooters have advice or experience to share about their transition? Any thoughts are welcome.
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I am still editing images taken on my visits to Paris. This is the latest to be chosen. Taken on Tri-X in 1999 using an M6 with a 50mm Summicron f2 lens. You can see my 'Streets of Paris' portfolio at https://gwpics.myportfolio.com/the-streets-of-paris I am hoping to get a book together in the relatively near future, so comments are welcome. Gerry
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- black and white
- leica m6
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https://vimeo.com/208254533 A short video clip I made on SL with Summarit 35/2.4 in L-log and graded in FCP X as Arri Log C footage. Wanted to finally see what can be done with those L-log files. Not bad results, looks really promising. Anyone here has any experience with making films on SL? How do you capture the footage, how do you colour grade later? What LUT do you use? I've looked at buying some extra LUT loaders and use some custom LUTs but decided that it's not really needed. I can work with what's in the Apple Final Cut Pro X quite effectively it seems. How about you?
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M4 + LLL 35/2 + Kodak 5294, home E-6 developed and scanned with Plustek 8200i. White balance corrected in LR.
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I'm selling my 21mm Super Angulon f/4 M mount in favor of something a little more "practical". While in Cuba earlier this year, I found myself using the Zeiss 28mm f/2.8 on my Contax G2 quite a bit but for my next few trips, I'll bring only a couple of M bodies (M7 & Typ 246). I really love the results that I got out of my Zeiss and am wondering if I should go with another Zeiss (25mm f/2.8 or 28mm f/2.8) OR a new-ish 28mm Elmarit ASPH. So my two questions are "is the Elmarit ASPH quality worth more than double the price of a used Zeiss 25mm or 28mm?" and "In order to keep my work consistent, should I just stick with the Zeiss 28mm f/2.8 for the way it renders colors?" Examples of my work in Cuba with the 28mm f/2.8 on the Contax G2 below. Both photos with Portra 400.
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First sample is at 1/125 ss. Notice the white stripe near the right edge. It looks pretty much the same at 1/250 and 1/500, however, at 1/60 it's gone. I haven't seen the results at 1/60, but that's what I've been told. Last sample is at 1/1000 and things are much worse there. I am going to make more tests, but what do you think it can be? Shutter? A body was stored without lens attached to it and without front cap covering the mount, so shutter was basically uncovered. However, I couldn't find any obvious signs of damage on shutter. And if it's a shutter problem, repair would probably cost more then a camera itself, right?
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From Kosmo Foto, here are two articles on the future of film based photography. Both are long reads but present some worthwhile information IMO. A passage from the above article: "...the nearly one billion rolls of film a year sold in the US at the height of the film market in the early 2000s has dwindled to a few tens of millions a year..." Yes. it is always better to sell a billion rolls of film a year - but if photographers are buying a "paltry" 30 million rolls of film a year - 1/33rd of the billion rolls a year of legend and lore - that still amounts to over 576,900 rolls of film purchased per week. If the profit per roll of film for both manufacturer and retail seller were $2.00 a roll - and I would guess that given film prices today, that is a reasonable estimate, and may be low for the manufacturer - that amounts to a over a million dollars profit per week for both manufacturers and retailers. That's not pocket change and I would think there are a lot of other businesses out there who compete for much smaller pots of gold than $52 million plus per year.
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- film
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Last week I visited London with my son. I brought my M4-P and some rolls of film with me and want to share some of the pictures I made in this thread. We had a really great time in a sunny London and managed to see a lot of this town. My last visit dates back to the mid 90's and I have to admit, that my memories to this last visit where not the best. Back then we had the typical London weather with the occasional rain, and as I was much younger in those days, my wallet was a lot thinner than nowadays Although you will only see my touristic view on London in this thread, any feedback is strongly appreciated. Let's start with some street art from the East End. While we where walking on the tracks of Jack the Ripper and searched for some of the locations of his crimes in this area, we where excited about the many pieces of street art all over the place: M4-P - Summicron 35 - Agfa CT 100 Precisa (slide film)
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It's not a done deal just yet, but this is good news. I usually shoot Tri-X as an all-around B&W emulsion, but lately I have been thinking of picking up a fine grained higher contrast ISO emulsion for landscapes and some travel work. If Fuji actually does resurrect Acros, it would be a truly outstanding turn of events.
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Hello there, I have decided to start a topic on jammed shutter issue of Leica film cameras. I experienced this issue while taking photos at the Shard. My camera had been loaded with Adox CMS 20 II, the microfilm had the highest resolving power. The first fifteen frames were beautiful to enjoy the view. Yet after 16th frame, the camera was jammed. Since I tried to force its advance lever, it was totally broken. One wondering what was happened may look at the result here. I sent my camera to Wetzlar via Leica Store Mayfair. After eight weeks, it came back to London in a repaired condition under warranty. Recently, I have heard similar experiences to mine. Some of them is not related to choose Adox's films, since they have occurred while using Ilford's HP5+, and so on. In order to build a guide for one who could experience the same, may you share your experiences on jammed shutter, or advance lever stuck?