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Found 20 results

  1. My interests toward film are ignited again by my dad’s efforts in developing C41, ECN-2 and E-6 at home after his retirement. We talked frequently on the chemicals, processes and experiment the push process together. We now have succeeded in pushing the Kodak Vision3 500T to 800 and 1600. For me, 800 is enough to cover my needs shooting streets from dawn to dusk and the artificial lights. And I now enjoy the M4 more than the M10-P. We use a Plustek 8200i to scan. Okay, let’s kick-off with a frame. Leica M4, LLL 35/2, Kodak 5219@800
  2. Hey, everyone, Sorry that my first post to the forum is me asking for help, but I’ve just purchased a SF24D flash, and was planning on using it handheld off camera connected by a cord, a la Bruce Gilden. I know I need a cable with pc sync connecter for my M4. As for a hot shoe adapter that can be attached to the flash, connected to the cable, and can trigger the flash, I’m having difficulties finding an adapter that will work. the original adapter I was planning on using won’t work, if anybody knows of a solution, or something that they’ve used before. I’d be really grateful!
  3. I love my M4 See more and find out why on my daily blog: Rangefinder Chronicles: Monday 20 December 2010 Anyone else?
  4. I use the IDS grip on my M10-P because I feel the M10-P is too heavy to grip for long time with the bare body. But for M4, I’m not sure if I also need a handgrip because it is way lighter than M10-P with the same lens setup. And for aesthetic reason I don’ like the IDS grip for analog M and also many other grips that enclose the whole baseplate with considerably ugly thickness add to the body. I very much prefer the sleek design of analog M-bodies. So I want to try the 14405 but when I saw its second-hand price I hesitated and found the made-in-our-China replica only sells at 1/3 of the preown-price for 14405. So I ordered one, but disappointed once I put it on. There is plenty much room between the handle and the body of my M4, and the grip becomes unsteady and crappy. I asked the manufacturer and his response is they made it primarily for M6, period. I have never touched an M6 in real life so I doubt if there is really that much difference between the M4 and M6? I thought the Leica Ms are quite consistent with the M4 design after the M5 affairs…
  5. M4 + LLL 35/2 + Kodak 5294, home E-6 developed and scanned with Plustek 8200i. White balance corrected in LR.
  6. M4 + Expired Portra 160 + LLL 35/2
  7. M4 + Expired Portra 160 + LLL 35/2
  8. Okay guys, need help with this rangefinder issue. the image comes up at crooked, and it's making focusing kinda annoying. Any idea what could have caused this? Do I just need to send it away to be serviced? thanks- Massoud
  9. Japan Camera Hunter unveils cherry blossom-themed M4 https://kosmofoto.com/2021/10/japan-camera-hunter-unveiled-cherry-blossom-themed-leica/ Not my thing, but in a world of 7,904,671,774+ someone is bound to love it. As for me, I'll stick with plain black with the cursive Leica script engraved on the top plate.
  10. Hi all, Just had my M6 CLA’d due to a light leak around the shutter curtains. They are demonstrating some curling and leave a light leak when a frame is left in the gate for too long. The tech replaces the baffles among other things but I can still see a bit of light at the edges when shining a bright light. He claims that is normal and his other Leicas also have this. Can anyone attest if that is true by checking your shutter curtain edges when shining a bright light inside? much obliged! Boe
  11. Hi all, Just had my M6 CLA’d due to a light leak around the shutter curtains. They are demonstrating some curling and leave a light leak when a frame is left in the gate for too long. The tech replaces the baffles among other things but I can still see a bit of light at the edges when shining a bright light. He claims that is normal and his other Leicas also have this. Can anyone attest if that is true by checking your shutter curtain edges when shining a bright light inside? much obliged Boe
  12. Hi, I’m new here. I am using Canon DSLR and Nikon F3P film camera. I understand that a Leica camera won’t make me a better photographer, but I like the feel after tested the Leica camera at Leica store, and I love the experience of controlling light by myself. I started from DSLR then move to film, my F3 explore my vision of “how to exposure work”, but relying very minimum of the electronic parts inside my F3 (basically just a light meter). With all the reasons (maybe excuses), I am decided to become one of the Leica member. Last week, I saw a good deal of 50mm f2 rigid, and my finger acted to quickly and accidentally make up the purchase, now it on the way. I hope I can have some of your suggestions here to help me to pick my first Leica to start my Leica journey. Currently, I am considering M3, M4 and M5. Based on my search on the web, M3 is legendary camera, M4 is more modern, M5 is cheap & bulky. is there anyone who used or owned these camera and probably can give some advise to me? I planned to get one film Leica only, afterwards, I will invest into digital Leica. Thank you very much.
  13. Hello guys, I found that my lecia m4 RF alignment need to adjust. However, when I want to screw the biggest bolt in the mount, I found that I can't screw it. It totally fixed. I google a lot of article, but I don't find anyone else has same problem like me. AS a result I come here to ask you guys; is there anyone had same problem like me?8
  14. Hey Guys, I wanted to buy a used leica since months now. But I am still unsure if I should go with the M6 or the M4? The only big difference is that the M6 has a lightmeter and the M4 not. But since I work in the film industry. I wanted to buy a separate light meter anyway at some point. So is it better to go with the cheaper M4 and get also a good lens instead of spending a lot on the M6? Looking forward to your replies Best Thomas
  15. Hello! I have a M4 and a M6. With the M6, the loading is super easy, basically dropping the film and close the bottom plate. With the M4, if I don't pay close attention to the loading and advancing 3 times before closing the bottom plate (checking that the film is taken up correctly), the film can loosen from the taking spool (tulip). This has happened a number of times and I always dread it might happen. Now, I think I have a workaround but I have to waste 2-3 frames. Any suggestions? If it needs a service, what would most likely be the parts? And being from 1970, would those be available? I love how the M4 feels and operates in my hands but the M6 TTL is more reliable... Kind regards, Joakim
  16. Over the years I have been fortunate to be able to work and save some extra money to pursue my serious hobby of photography. During this time I've acquired an M2, M4 Black Chrome, M4-P and M6 TTL. All bodies are in excellent condition and used regularly on rotation. But now .....I'm lusting after an MP Black Paint since I prefer to have a meter - - It's is not a logical thought process. Why get an MP when I already have the combined functions of an MP in all my current bodies? .......and If I decide to get it I will have to sell a few bodies to fund it fully. So at the end would it be worth it going with an MP and sacrificing the older bodies for it? I know this is such an objective question - and everyone's circumstances are different and I might be going thru an episode of "GAS" but looking for opinions to keep me out of it or going thru with getting an MP .
  17. SOS HELP!!! I dropped my Leica M4 and according to the NYC Camera Doctor repair team, the prism that creates the ghost image in the rangefinder is dislocated and needs to be replaced. They suggested that I send it directly into Leica for repairs, becuase the rangefinder is a complicated mechanism they wern't equipt to fix. They also let me know that Leica, located in New Jersey, dosen't do specific repairs and will want to do a full tune-up. Money is a concern, and I'm not prepared to pay $1000-ish if I can at all avoid it. I just want my range-finder to be functional. Has anyone had rangefinder work done, espeically on an M4? Would you advise having this work done by Leica or an outside repair person, such as DAG? Any experience or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. E
  18. I was wondering if any of you leica history buffs could help me out on this weird topic. I recently bought my first leica m, an m4-p. I know the camera had to have been in the last group of 2223 m4-p's produced because it has the m6 top plate windows and single pc port. The issue is that the serial number isn't registered to any leica m4-p's. It's registered to a leica r3. Since production for those cameras ended almost a decade before my camera was ever made, I was wondering what the cause could be. Just a mistake? Hopefully not a fake... the serial # is 1468592 thanks for any input -Massoud
  19. So, I've finally decided to dip my toe in the Leica pool. A long-time Pentax user who started with digital, then began to use film more (with an MX and and P30N). An M6 could be in the longer-term, but I want to learn and experience the meter-less world first. With exceptions allowed for family and event photos, I'm aiming for a 'one-camera, one-lens' project next year to teach myself some of the basics I've probably skipped over in the past. I've seen a good oppotunituy for a 'User' grade M3 or, for 200 GBP more, an 'Exc+' M4. My question is whether there is really better value in getting an 'Exc+' over a 'User' given my circumstance. I'm assuming the issue is really the lens, and whilst everyone seems to say 'Summicron 50mm' - can anyone explain the difference between 'rigid' and ottherwise? And which should I go for as a first time RF user. many thanks
  20. Apologies if there are similar threads to this one - I haven't been able to find answers to my questions specifically. I recently sold my M3 since I'm looking for a body that accommodates wider lenses and has a hotshoe. I don't need a built in meter and am on a budget, so I wouldn't consider the M6. I also find the M5 too bulky, so this leaves the M4-2 and M4-P. I will mainly be shooting 28mm and 35mm lenses, so the M4-P seems ideal since it provides framelines for both. My first question is therefore whether the extra cost is warranted for 28mm framelines, or if I should opt for an M4-2 and use the entire viewfinder to approximate the 28mm focal length. Also, since there are few "user condition" examples of both models available online, I'm wondering how reliable the hotshoe is on these cameras - I use flash a lot and problems in this department would be a total dealbreaker for me. Would it make a tangible difference to opt for a late M4-P, or is it safe to assume that the hotshoe will function well in most cases regardless of model or year? My instincts tell me the M4-P is the ideal camera, but since there are a few M4-2's available for very attractive prices, I'm hoping someone can convince me otherwise!
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