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During my last couple of trips in colder temperatures I've noticed that once temperatures get slightly cold the light meter of my M6 gets fairly unreliable. Meaning that the little arrows either don't show up at all, are barely visible or simply give me wrong meterings. I'm assuming it has something to do with the cold draining the batteries. But the temperatures I was in weren't exactly "freezing" - mostly between 0 and 15 Celcius (32 and 59 Fahrenheit) - so I'm not sure. Is this a common issue? Is there a simple fix? Maybe a battery thats more resistant to cold temperatures? Any help would be appreciated!

Hello, actually on a trip in London , m’y m10 rangefinder suddenly stop coupling with my lenses. in fact, the little wheel wich get contact with the lens stays blocked on the infini. If I put it in thé right direction I can feel itsabnormaly hard to move. what happened ? CAN Ifix it by myself -? Is there a place in London where it could be fixed ? thank you for your help

Moin zusammen, ich habe seit ca. 4 Wochen das Problem, dass meine M2 manchmal den Film beim Spannen nicht richtig transportiert. Die Bilder überlappen sich dann. Man merkt es beim Spannen, der Spannhebel springt dann. Der Fehler tritt meistens auf wenn der Zähler bereits bei 20 -25 Bildern steht. Ich habe das Gefühl, dass der Film zwischendurch die Spannung verliert oder über die Zähne rutscht. Ist jemanden so etwas schon mal passiert oder kennt sogar jemand die Lösung? Im Moment elf ich mir in dem ich ein Bild mit Objektivdeckel mache wenn ich merke dass der Film nicht transportiert wurde. Gerade bei teuren oder alten Schätzen verliere ich so meist 4-6 Bilder was ehrlich gesagt sehr schade ist. Gerade bei Filmen wie einen Fuji Superia Reala 100 oder Kodak Ektachrome 160t Die kleine ist mein Ein und alles. Bitte helft mir. Mit freundlichen Grüßen Nik

Today I bought a used Summicron 28 ASPH and immediately noticed that the red dot on the lens - the one used to align when mounting - is of a different color than the Summicron 50 that I have. It is more of an orange color on the 28, and red on the 50. My speculation is that the red color has changed (bleached out) due to exposure to the environment. This sounds quite stupid but it's Leica so anything is possible. Anyone has similar issues? Any advices will be helpful!

Hello all A few months back I finally fulfilled my dream and got myself the M 240. The digital Leica M body I always have wanted. So far it's been stunning experience and I love shooting with it. M 240 and SEM 21 are particularly a special combo together. What the M has brought me for the first time I truly enjoy shooting street photography. However, I have always enjoyed landscape shooting the most. I was aware of the drawbacks of M 240 when I purchased it. If you don't know what I am talking about I mean the following problems: - One minute maximum exposure = It's a disgrace to even call it bulb mode - No way to turn off LENR (Long exposure noise reduction) = practical disadvantage: try shooting fireworks when the guy next to you is going to get twice as many shots as you are - Long exposure with high ISO is even more limited = astrophotography is impossible - Inability to move the focus point on live view when zoomed in I am aware there are plenty of discussion about the aforementioned issues on these forums. As we all know anyone who is serious about landscape shooting these issues render the M almost useless. Which is in so many ways so sad. We are talking about a 6000 € camera, we have the best ultra wide lens ever (SEM 21) - and yet it can't be used to it's full potential because of these limitations. This makes me just sad. For me this is frustrating beyond all ways to describe it. To have the digital M body you always wanted, yet you are limited by such limitations. Right now I have three options: 1) Pray and hope Leica would release a firmware update to fix the issues (or perhaps a firmware hack could enable this? 2) Forget all kind of long exposure shooting with the M. 3) Get a second body for landscape shooting. Right now for me the only option would be the Sony A7r. Which I already owned once. Sad news at the time the performance with certain M wides was not acceptable. The good news now is by modifying the camera it appears we can get good performance even with SEM 21 (source: Diglloyd.com). Now I most certainly would not want to choose option number 2). So what I want to know is there a way we can reach Leica directly and get answers about these issues? Has Leica ever explained the reasoning to disable long exposures on the CMOSIS sensor? I simply can't believe an overheating would be a problem. If yes, how come no other camera manufacturer doesn't have the same problem? My guess is they want landscape shooters to invest into S-system. Or perhaps Leica's vision is perfection: hot pixels are not tolared. I say this because even the Leica T has the same technical limitation. And we all know the T has a Sony sensor which is perfectly capable for long exposures without any issues, yes again Leica has not allowed it. What ever the real reason for this is I find it ridiculous. Every DSLR I ever had (since Canon EOS 300D) has had a bulb mode. Hot pixels have never been a problem. And if they are turning LENR on removes the problem. I realize the game is probably lost by now for the M 240 and Leica is already probably working on the next generation M body. But I just want Leica to be at least aware of these drawbacks. And that the next generation Leica M body would not have such disadvantages for those who enjoy landscaping with Leica glass the most. M9 is not an option for me, because I think live view is a mandatory property for a landscape shooter. And I don't think I would be satisfied even with the 240 seconds. Any comments? Thank you for reading this... P.S. I am aware some folks seem to be bit over defensive when it comes to criticizing Leica M bodies here, but I truly believe these issues are serious drawbacks for each and everyone of us. And only together we have a chance to get answers from Leica. I certainly am hoping that a future firmware update is possible to fix some of these issues.

I post this to see if anyone else have/had the same sensor issues with their M240 (M-P). I was playing around in Lightroom in November 2017, mainly testing different extreme values with the haze control, and other stuff to experiment with my photography. To my astonishment I saw a vertical line running exactly in the middle of the uncropped image. I then tested a photo from April 2015 that was taken with another M240 M-P body I had at that time. And the same vertical line appeared. I then randomly tested several other photos, and the same line appears, in virtually all photos, from both M-P bodies! I have a total of more than 20000 photos with M-P:s that in some or another way are affected by this problem. Attached here is an example of a jpg from M-P body 1, and one of M-P body 2, after tweakning the dng:s. The dng:s and full JPG:s can be downloaded to view through the links provided here: Link to DNG (M-P body 1): https://we.tl/FQQkFgKo7U Link to JPG (M-P body 1): https://we.tl/4BpPecbwmR Link to DNG (M-P body 2): https://we.tl/O2Kb9XKab7 Link to JPG (M-P body 2): https://we.tl/a3Vw2FUBYQ These images do not represent my photography (www.m9x.se), but they show the problem very clearly. So I went to my local Leica center in Stockholm who sent it to Leica in Germany. My lokal Leica dealer is fantastic by the way. I instructed Leica to test the way I had done in Lightroom doing the following: - adjust ”haze” to a the right - lower the value of vibrance - lower the value of saturation - set exposure to show a standard good histogram curve Leica concluded that the sensor ”function within tolerances”. They said: Both I and my lokal Leica dealer where astonished and very surprised. Separately we wrote to Leica. My dealer wrote this to Leica: To add to this, I told Leica that I would most likely post something on a forum to see if others have the same problem. To this Leica sent out a in-house alert message (that I mistakenly received a copy of) saying: Have I found an inherent problem with the sensor construction on the M240? To sum up: The vertical line appears in the exact same position in both bodys. This probably means it is an inherent problem in the construction of the sensor, or? My guess is that the sensor consists of two halves fused together, and that this fuse is not seamless (no, I do not know this, I am not a technician). The line appears in Lightroom (but also in C1Pro, Silver Efex Pro, ON1 Photo Raw). So it is not a matter of software. Although, in Lightroom (Leica´s preferred software) it appears much stronger than in C1P11. I have tested other cameras, and I cannot get a vertical line to appear in any images from them. I tested a GH4 heavily during the period my M-P was in Germany, as well as Ricoh GRii. And my old M9 did not have this problem, nor the even older Canon 5D. It is not a dead pixel problem. It is not banding. A camera that costs around 7000 Euro should not have this kind of sensor issue. A photographer/artist should be able to tweak a photo without a vertical line separating the image in two halves. There are many other competing camera makers nowadays. A camera company in 2018 should not act this way to faithful consumers. My Leica garage includes/included: R4, M9, M-P, 18/3.4, 28/2.8 Asph, 35/2 vers 4, two 50/1.4 Asph, 50/1.4, two 75/2 APO, 90/2.8, Digital flash SD20, etc… I am a devoted hobby photographer. I am not rich (not even close) and the expenses from Leica equipment means less of other things in my life. But I have spent 25000 Euro on Leica products through the years. I do not make any money on photography. I have used Leica for the love of their products. But maybe not som much anymore, to which I am very sad. Any one out there that has had the same problem?

I love my Leica SL with 24-90 AF lens and especially all my "old" R glass! The only problem I have is that one of the 4 menu control/function buttons does not work as smoothly as the other 3. Does any of you Leica SL users have the same/similar experience?

Hello, my grandfather recently gave my his beloved Leica R3 with two lenses. But this beauty got two problems. First the advance leaver won't work from time to time. It seem that he doesn't get grip to the advance mechanism sometimes. Advancing usually works just fine but what the leaver is losing grip I have to move him approximately a hundert times till I'm able to cock the camera again. The second issue is the electrics, If no batteries are insert the B and the X mode ( 1/90 ) are just working fine. But as soon as I insert a pair of LR44, SR 44 or AG3 the shutter opens and stay open no matter what time is set on the R3es shutter dial. And the shutters stays open until I remove the batteries. I just want to know, if its possible to fix it easily or if i have to contact the Leica support for this and how much the costs could be. Greetings from Germany

I usually only shoot Photos with my M240 but yesterday I needed to shoot a few minutes of video with my M240 on a tripod and a 35mm lens but the camera stopt filming evry single time after only a few seconds... Made several attempts and checked all possible settings but found no solution. Can someone tell me what I might be doing wrong? Help is really appreciated! Thanx in advance, Marten Root

Sometimes a photo gets a wrong capture time has anyone noticed this before? I have seen this 3 times already but cannot detect a pattern, the capture time is just a few hours wrong. (I have the latest firmware installed). Any help would be appreciated. If more people notice this we might get Leica's attention to fix this.

Seit dem letzten Wochenende zeigt meine V-Lux 4 ein sehr seltsames Verhalten. Vorab: Der Akku ist voll, die Speicherkarte neu formatiert, sicherheitshalber habe ich die Kamera auf die Werkseinstellungen zurückgesetzt. Der Fehler tritt dennoch weiterhin auf. Folgendes Verhalten zeigt sie: Nach dem Einschalten dauert es ein paar Sekunden, dann fährt das Objektiv voll aus auf Maximal-Tele, ohne dass ich etwas getan hätte. Es bleibt einige Sekunden ausgefahren, dann fährt es wieder komplett zurück auf Weitwinkel. Sobald es ganz eingefahren ist, reagiert keine Taste mehr, außer dem Auslöser. Fotografieren geht also noch, aber nur mit Weitwinkel. Wenn ich eine der Tasten auf der runden Wippe rund um die 'Menu'-Taste einige Sekunden drücke, funktionieren die anderen Tasten wieder für ca. 30 Sekunden. Außer Tele-/Weitwinkel, die kann ich weder am Regler links neben dem Objektiv verstellen, noch am Regler beim Auslöser. Während dieser ca. 30 Sekunden kann ich auch in das Menue gehen und alle Funktionen nutzen. Nach Ablauf der 30 Sekunden reagiert dann jedoch wieder keine Taste mehr und das Menue beginnt endlos von rechts nach links durch alle Optionen zu scrollen. Drücke ich nun wieder eine der Tasten für ca. 30 Sekunden, hört das Scrollen auf und ich kann das Menue wieder für ca. 30 Sekunden nutzen. Der Auslöser funktioniert jedoch immer, auch wenn alle anderen Tasten spinnen. Der Autofocus jedoch funktioniert ebenfalls nur während der ca. 30 Sekunden, nachdem ich eine der Tasten länger gedrückt habe. Hat das schon mal jemand gehabt und weiß, wie man das beheben kann, ohne die Kamera gleich einschicken zu müssen? Danke Euch!

What newer cards are reliable ? I lost 1/2 a shoot for the 3rd time this year. I am getting a bit paranoid because Lexar image rescue5 could not recover any of the files even after several attempts. While shooting I always randomly check on the LCD but then there is nothing on the card - how is that even possible ?

I recently got my Leica M6 serviced by Youxin Ye, and after receiving i decided to take it out for a test run with my Summicron 50mm F2 Dual Range. I was all set to go until i noticed a problem...the lens does not focus all the way to infinity. It stops a lil bit after 10 meters.. I took a pic of it so everyone can see Anyone know what the issue may be? I use this lens on my M3 alot and have no issues focusing to infinity at all

I just bought a used M5 and discovered a large translucent stain in the upper end of the rangefinder window. I tried to gently wash the outside of the glass, but it seems to be on the inside. Does anyone know what it is and potentially how bad or harmless it is for the rangefinder window? Should I try to return the camera or can I possibly fix it myself?

Hallo, nach einem kleinen Sturz auf Glatteis mit dem Kamerarucksack bewegt sich beim Fokussieren der eingespiegelte rahmen nicht mehr und lässt sich somit auch nicht mehr übereinanderlegen. Im Liveview funktioniert alles normal. Bei genauem hinsehen kann man durch das Fenster des Entfernungsmessers? sehen, dass etwas gebrochen ist (von außen jedoch keine Beschädigung). Was kann das sein? Ist das reparabel und wirtschaftlich sinnvoll? Bin Dankbar für jede Hilfe!

Hello guys, I’m coming back to game after few years pause from shooting with only Canon bodies (from 1D II to 1DX over years) which was really reliable work horse’s and never let me down. Now I would like to take different approach and want to start my Leica journey. I read forum and saw most of YouTube about M11 and I was about ready to buy one but then I saw thread “M11 freezing Issue” and postponed the purchase until it will be fixed. How this issues evolved? Does software [1.6] helped and solve most of problems with freezing a lockup’s please? I really appreciate all your feedback’s and observations, i can’t even imagine that I may have to swap between 2-3 bodies until I find not even perfect working example only better then before… thanks a lot!

Hi, I am new to the forum and new to Leica. In fact, I just bought my first Leica this evening, a black M7. (I owned a M2 for about a week I got in a trade, but had to resell it before using it, before I was interested in owning a Leica). However I was a bit naive going into it. I found a nice article detailing what to look for when buying a Leica M (change in shutter speeds, etc). However I think my M7 has a problem that I have not been able to find any info on ANYWHERE on the internet, and I have been searching for hours. A little backstory: The guy I bought this off of was the original owner, and he said he bought it ten years ago. He said he has run around 10 rolls of film through it, and hasn't used it for years. It's in mint condition cosmetically. I would believe his 10 roll claim. While looking at the camera, I noticed that the LED lights in the viewfinder were quite blurry, doubled, and seemed to be reflecting. He had no idea if this was a problem or not, and neither did I. I didn't have my glasses at the time and thought it may just be my eyes. I thought I was getting a good deal, so I bought it without thinking about it much further. Upon getting it home, I have wiped off both sides of the viewfinder, the rangefinder, and the lens. I cannot figure out what the problem is, so hopefully you can help. I am adding two pictures here. The first one is how I assume the LED's should look, and the second one is how mine look when I look through the viewfinder. Any ideas are welcome. I am hoping that this is not a major issue, as I really want my first real Leica purchase to be a positive one. Notes: -The seller put in brand new batteries today. They say CR 1/3N on them. -This is my first Leica, but the actual view through the viewfinder, and focusing through the rangefinder seem to be working fine. -My serial number is 2885xxx How I think it should look: http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww48/videomatt916/goodviewfinder.jpg How mine looks (the best I can demonstrate): http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww48/videomatt916/badviewfinder.jpg

Hello, I recently inherited my father's Leica M2, which I would dearly love to use, however the viewfinder doesn't work. When I look through the viewfinder I only see one very small image in the centre of the screen. I have never used a Leica before, but I am certain this isn't right! Does anyone have any advice on how I should go about getting this fixed? Or maybe where I should take it (I live in south London). Any advice would be gratefully appreciated. Thank you. Steve

Hi, i am new to this forum and new to leica.I have a new D-lux 5 compact. I already own a Nikon D700 and some Carl Zeiss lenses. I did some test shoots with mu Leica and saw some strange things in Lightroom. See the photo: This is a 100% crop from lightroom, standard develop settings. Notice the grey pattern in the background. All of my tests have this and all the images looks unsharp. I did a reset of the camera but with no results. It is clearly no noise. Shot was taken with iso 80. Second one is a 200% crop so you can see it better. Any help please! Thanks http://www.afewimages.com/images/L1020230.jpg

It has happened more than one time. When I'm around frame 25 of a film, I can't advance the film anymore....it is like I have reached the end of the film. Does anyone know why it this happening?? thanks

Hello, I'm new to this forum and this is my first posting. I am the second owner of an M8. Had a hot pixel which caused a vertical band so I sent it back to Leica NJ. The vertical band wasn't that bad but for only $175, they took care of it for me. Just got it back from Leica NJ but, now I have a strange problem. I took it out for a full day of shooting (on a sunny, cold day) and when I returned and I plugged it into my computer, I was floored. Horrible grain on most images. I thought my ISO must have switched to a super high setting on accident. I checked the EXIF on the images and it was for sure on ISO 640. The grain should not be this bad at ISO 640...and it's baaad! Is there anything someone can advise on this problem? I've included sample pics from this day of shooting (both good and bad grain...you can tell which is which). Both were taken within the same day, same setting, same lens (28mm Elmarit f/2.8 w/UV-IR filter), etc... Good image: http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/johnmaloof/L9990230.jpg Bad image: http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/johnmaloof/L9990203.jpg

My M9's setting dial has started acting weird. For exposure compensation it doesn't go in sequence but keeps jumping back and forth. Same happens while zooming in play mode. It is very annoying on otherwise functioning camera. Before I send it for repair under warranty, I wanted to find out whether anybody else has the issue and whether there is a quick fix (hate to be without M9 for weeks ). I checked for the obvious dust around setting dial, rotating it back and forth many times in case there is something stuck inside, firmware upgrade... Nothing solved it. This is my first post here. I have been lurking and reading informative posts so far. Wonderful forum indeed.

Hi Ich habe kürzlich eine optisch neuwertige R8 ergattert. Die Freude verging mir jedoch schnell, als ich ein Problem bei der Blendenübertragung vom Objektiv zur Kamera feststellte. Egal welche Blende ich am Objektiv einstelle, die Kamera erkennt immer nur f22, was sich natürlich nicht gerade positiv auf eine korrekte Belichtung ausübt. Habe mehrere R-Linsen (alle 3-cam) ausprobiert, das Problem liegt meines Erachtens eindeutig am Gehäuse. Meine Vermutung ist, dass der Blendenübertragungs-Hebel am Bajonett nicht automatisch zurück-federt. Möglicherweise eine Verklemmung. Der Hebel lässt sich zwar bewegen, bleibt jedoch immer an Ort und Stelle stehen. Ist dieses Problem jemandem bekannt? Gerne möchte ich versuchen, das Problem selber beheben. Mir wäre schon sehr geholfen, wenn ein R8 oder R9-User kurz an seiner Kamera nachschauen könnte, ob der kleine Hebel am Bajonett, der die Blende überträgt von selbst zurück-federt. Bin Dankbar um jede Hilfe Grüsse Florian

Hello, It's my first post on the forum, so a quick introduction: I live in Amsterdam and I'm the very proud owner of an M6 and an M3, the latter recently acquired seemingly in tip-top shape, serial 1 034 xxx. I've discovered a strange issue though, that I've yet to find a reference to on the forum or the web at large: it seems I can wind the shutter and shoot without encountering any resistance well past the frame 40 (where the counter stops). This of course is with 36 positions film loaded properly (Ilford XP2 and HP5+), as the two red dots keep turning until about frame 36-7 or so. After that, the dots no longer turn, but the shutter winds/cocks and shoots without issues, the frame advances to 40 and the stops, and I can still keep going at it. Miffed, I switch to R and rewind the film back into the canister. I can clearly hear the film moving inside, and finally there's a slight tension (but just ever so slight) followed by a much freer, lighter movement of the rewind knob which makes it clear that film's wound all in. Indeed taking out the canister shows it is. This happened twice already with both films I've shot on the camera. What could be happening? My M6 clearly doesn't allow me to keep on winding like a madman, reaching the end of the film prevents the winder to work, lest the film be broken off the canister. My only speculation is that the teeth engaging the sprockets are very slippery and just won't pull the film at some point, preferring to slip. Could this have anything to do with my not winding back the film a little bit during loading, before shooting frames -2 and -1? Please, any thoughts! Kind regards, Radu

Ich bin neu im Forum und habe bei meiner V-Lux30 Probleme mit der GPS-Funktion. Selbständig sucht das Gerät praktisch nie die neue Position. Erst über dem Menupunkt "Aktualisieren" sucht es die neue Position. Das dauert mindestens 3 Minuten. Das Gerät findet dann auch 3-6 Satelliten. Hat jemand ähnliche Probleme (gehabt?) und wie wurde das gelöst. Bin für jede Anregung diesbezüglich dankbar. Hatte mir die Camera extra wegen dieser Funktion gekauft und bin jetzt sehr enttäuscht . Digitale Grüße Günter Brunnert