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Hello, actually on a trip in London , m’y m10 rangefinder suddenly stop coupling with my lenses. in fact, the little wheel wich get contact with the lens stays blocked on the infini. If I put it in thé right direction I can feel itsabnormaly hard to move. what happened ? CAN Ifix it by myself -? Is there a place in London where it could be fixed ? thank you for your help

Hello everyone: I'm a Leica photography enthusiast from Spain, English is not my mother language, but I'll do my best. I think it's my first post here since I registered years ago, and I confess that it is not for a pleasant subject. I own a fantastic Leica M9 but for work reasons I have not used it for a couple of years. The point is that today I have charged it and used it for the first time in a long period. And I find that the photos have a very strange moire. Is it a sensor problem? It was taken with the 50mm summilux, I have also attached exif data. What you see is a zoom of 100% of the image. Many thanks for the help, I'm a little scared. Kind regards,

I post this to see if anyone else have/had the same sensor issues with their M240 (M-P). I was playing around in Lightroom in November 2017, mainly testing different extreme values with the haze control, and other stuff to experiment with my photography. To my astonishment I saw a vertical line running exactly in the middle of the uncropped image. I then tested a photo from April 2015 that was taken with another M240 M-P body I had at that time. And the same vertical line appeared. I then randomly tested several other photos, and the same line appears, in virtually all photos, from both M-P bodies! I have a total of more than 20000 photos with M-P:s that in some or another way are affected by this problem. Attached here is an example of a jpg from M-P body 1, and one of M-P body 2, after tweakning the dng:s. The dng:s and full JPG:s can be downloaded to view through the links provided here: Link to DNG (M-P body 1): https://we.tl/FQQkFgKo7U Link to JPG (M-P body 1): https://we.tl/4BpPecbwmR Link to DNG (M-P body 2): https://we.tl/O2Kb9XKab7 Link to JPG (M-P body 2): https://we.tl/a3Vw2FUBYQ These images do not represent my photography (www.m9x.se), but they show the problem very clearly. So I went to my local Leica center in Stockholm who sent it to Leica in Germany. My lokal Leica dealer is fantastic by the way. I instructed Leica to test the way I had done in Lightroom doing the following: - adjust ”haze” to a the right - lower the value of vibrance - lower the value of saturation - set exposure to show a standard good histogram curve Leica concluded that the sensor ”function within tolerances”. They said: Both I and my lokal Leica dealer where astonished and very surprised. Separately we wrote to Leica. My dealer wrote this to Leica: To add to this, I told Leica that I would most likely post something on a forum to see if others have the same problem. To this Leica sent out a in-house alert message (that I mistakenly received a copy of) saying: Have I found an inherent problem with the sensor construction on the M240? To sum up: The vertical line appears in the exact same position in both bodys. This probably means it is an inherent problem in the construction of the sensor, or? My guess is that the sensor consists of two halves fused together, and that this fuse is not seamless (no, I do not know this, I am not a technician). The line appears in Lightroom (but also in C1Pro, Silver Efex Pro, ON1 Photo Raw). So it is not a matter of software. Although, in Lightroom (Leica´s preferred software) it appears much stronger than in C1P11. I have tested other cameras, and I cannot get a vertical line to appear in any images from them. I tested a GH4 heavily during the period my M-P was in Germany, as well as Ricoh GRii. And my old M9 did not have this problem, nor the even older Canon 5D. It is not a dead pixel problem. It is not banding. A camera that costs around 7000 Euro should not have this kind of sensor issue. A photographer/artist should be able to tweak a photo without a vertical line separating the image in two halves. There are many other competing camera makers nowadays. A camera company in 2018 should not act this way to faithful consumers. My Leica garage includes/included: R4, M9, M-P, 18/3.4, 28/2.8 Asph, 35/2 vers 4, two 50/1.4 Asph, 50/1.4, two 75/2 APO, 90/2.8, Digital flash SD20, etc… I am a devoted hobby photographer. I am not rich (not even close) and the expenses from Leica equipment means less of other things in my life. But I have spent 25000 Euro on Leica products through the years. I do not make any money on photography. I have used Leica for the love of their products. But maybe not som much anymore, to which I am very sad. Any one out there that has had the same problem?

I usually only shoot Photos with my M240 but yesterday I needed to shoot a few minutes of video with my M240 on a tripod and a 35mm lens but the camera stopt filming evry single time after only a few seconds... Made several attempts and checked all possible settings but found no solution. Can someone tell me what I might be doing wrong? Help is really appreciated! Thanx in advance, Marten Root

I love my Leica SL with 24-90 AF lens and especially all my "old" R glass! The only problem I have is that one of the 4 menu control/function buttons does not work as smoothly as the other 3. Does any of you Leica SL users have the same/similar experience?

Hello fellow Leica Q owners I seem to be unable to use my Leica Q in AF mode. The MF sign is constant in the top right corner of the EVF/LCD and no matter what I choose in the Menu I am unable to activate AF. I am stuck and frustrated. User error or technical glitch? Any ideas welcome cheers William

Hello, my grandfather recently gave my his beloved Leica R3 with two lenses. But this beauty got two problems. First the advance leaver won't work from time to time. It seem that he doesn't get grip to the advance mechanism sometimes. Advancing usually works just fine but what the leaver is losing grip I have to move him approximately a hundert times till I'm able to cock the camera again. The second issue is the electrics, If no batteries are insert the B and the X mode ( 1/90 ) are just working fine. But as soon as I insert a pair of LR44, SR 44 or AG3 the shutter opens and stay open no matter what time is set on the R3es shutter dial. And the shutters stays open until I remove the batteries. I just want to know, if its possible to fix it easily or if i have to contact the Leica support for this and how much the costs could be. Greetings from Germany

My Tele Elmarit M 90 shows these marks when inspecting under a certain angle. It looks like dried water behind the front-element of the lens. It does not show in photos but still it concerns me. Is this serviceable? Have you ever seen something like this?

Hallo, nach einem kleinen Sturz auf Glatteis mit dem Kamerarucksack bewegt sich beim Fokussieren der eingespiegelte rahmen nicht mehr und lässt sich somit auch nicht mehr übereinanderlegen. Im Liveview funktioniert alles normal. Bei genauem hinsehen kann man durch das Fenster des Entfernungsmessers? sehen, dass etwas gebrochen ist (von außen jedoch keine Beschädigung). Was kann das sein? Ist das reparabel und wirtschaftlich sinnvoll? Bin Dankbar für jede Hilfe!

I just bought a used M5 and discovered a large translucent stain in the upper end of the rangefinder window. I tried to gently wash the outside of the glass, but it seems to be on the inside. Does anyone know what it is and potentially how bad or harmless it is for the rangefinder window? Should I try to return the camera or can I possibly fix it myself?

Moin zusammen, ich habe seit ca. 4 Wochen das Problem, dass meine M2 manchmal den Film beim Spannen nicht richtig transportiert. Die Bilder überlappen sich dann. Man merkt es beim Spannen, der Spannhebel springt dann. Der Fehler tritt meistens auf wenn der Zähler bereits bei 20 -25 Bildern steht. Ich habe das Gefühl, dass der Film zwischendurch die Spannung verliert oder über die Zähne rutscht. Ist jemanden so etwas schon mal passiert oder kennt sogar jemand die Lösung? Im Moment elf ich mir in dem ich ein Bild mit Objektivdeckel mache wenn ich merke dass der Film nicht transportiert wurde. Gerade bei teuren oder alten Schätzen verliere ich so meist 4-6 Bilder was ehrlich gesagt sehr schade ist. Gerade bei Filmen wie einen Fuji Superia Reala 100 oder Kodak Ektachrome 160t Die kleine ist mein Ein und alles. Bitte helft mir. Mit freundlichen Grüßen Nik

During my last couple of trips in colder temperatures I've noticed that once temperatures get slightly cold the light meter of my M6 gets fairly unreliable. Meaning that the little arrows either don't show up at all, are barely visible or simply give me wrong meterings. I'm assuming it has something to do with the cold draining the batteries. But the temperatures I was in weren't exactly "freezing" - mostly between 0 and 15 Celcius (32 and 59 Fahrenheit) - so I'm not sure. Is this a common issue? Is there a simple fix? Maybe a battery thats more resistant to cold temperatures? Any help would be appreciated!

Today I bought a used Summicron 28 ASPH and immediately noticed that the red dot on the lens - the one used to align when mounting - is of a different color than the Summicron 50 that I have. It is more of an orange color on the 28, and red on the 50. My speculation is that the red color has changed (bleached out) due to exposure to the environment. This sounds quite stupid but it's Leica so anything is possible. Anyone has similar issues? Any advices will be helpful!

What newer cards are reliable ? I lost 1/2 a shoot for the 3rd time this year. I am getting a bit paranoid because Lexar image rescue5 could not recover any of the files even after several attempts. While shooting I always randomly check on the LCD but then there is nothing on the card - how is that even possible ?

Hello all A few months back I finally fulfilled my dream and got myself the M 240. The digital Leica M body I always have wanted. So far it's been stunning experience and I love shooting with it. M 240 and SEM 21 are particularly a special combo together. What the M has brought me for the first time I truly enjoy shooting street photography. However, I have always enjoyed landscape shooting the most. I was aware of the drawbacks of M 240 when I purchased it. If you don't know what I am talking about I mean the following problems: - One minute maximum exposure = It's a disgrace to even call it bulb mode - No way to turn off LENR (Long exposure noise reduction) = practical disadvantage: try shooting fireworks when the guy next to you is going to get twice as many shots as you are - Long exposure with high ISO is even more limited = astrophotography is impossible - Inability to move the focus point on live view when zoomed in I am aware there are plenty of discussion about the aforementioned issues on these forums. As we all know anyone who is serious about landscape shooting these issues render the M almost useless. Which is in so many ways so sad. We are talking about a 6000 € camera, we have the best ultra wide lens ever (SEM 21) - and yet it can't be used to it's full potential because of these limitations. This makes me just sad. For me this is frustrating beyond all ways to describe it. To have the digital M body you always wanted, yet you are limited by such limitations. Right now I have three options: 1) Pray and hope Leica would release a firmware update to fix the issues (or perhaps a firmware hack could enable this? 2) Forget all kind of long exposure shooting with the M. 3) Get a second body for landscape shooting. Right now for me the only option would be the Sony A7r. Which I already owned once. Sad news at the time the performance with certain M wides was not acceptable. The good news now is by modifying the camera it appears we can get good performance even with SEM 21 (source: Diglloyd.com). Now I most certainly would not want to choose option number 2). So what I want to know is there a way we can reach Leica directly and get answers about these issues? Has Leica ever explained the reasoning to disable long exposures on the CMOSIS sensor? I simply can't believe an overheating would be a problem. If yes, how come no other camera manufacturer doesn't have the same problem? My guess is they want landscape shooters to invest into S-system. Or perhaps Leica's vision is perfection: hot pixels are not tolared. I say this because even the Leica T has the same technical limitation. And we all know the T has a Sony sensor which is perfectly capable for long exposures without any issues, yes again Leica has not allowed it. What ever the real reason for this is I find it ridiculous. Every DSLR I ever had (since Canon EOS 300D) has had a bulb mode. Hot pixels have never been a problem. And if they are turning LENR on removes the problem. I realize the game is probably lost by now for the M 240 and Leica is already probably working on the next generation M body. But I just want Leica to be at least aware of these drawbacks. And that the next generation Leica M body would not have such disadvantages for those who enjoy landscaping with Leica glass the most. M9 is not an option for me, because I think live view is a mandatory property for a landscape shooter. And I don't think I would be satisfied even with the 240 seconds. Any comments? Thank you for reading this... P.S. I am aware some folks seem to be bit over defensive when it comes to criticizing Leica M bodies here, but I truly believe these issues are serious drawbacks for each and everyone of us. And only together we have a chance to get answers from Leica. I certainly am hoping that a future firmware update is possible to fix some of these issues.

Hi Ich habe kürzlich eine optisch neuwertige R8 ergattert. Die Freude verging mir jedoch schnell, als ich ein Problem bei der Blendenübertragung vom Objektiv zur Kamera feststellte. Egal welche Blende ich am Objektiv einstelle, die Kamera erkennt immer nur f22, was sich natürlich nicht gerade positiv auf eine korrekte Belichtung ausübt. Habe mehrere R-Linsen (alle 3-cam) ausprobiert, das Problem liegt meines Erachtens eindeutig am Gehäuse. Meine Vermutung ist, dass der Blendenübertragungs-Hebel am Bajonett nicht automatisch zurück-federt. Möglicherweise eine Verklemmung. Der Hebel lässt sich zwar bewegen, bleibt jedoch immer an Ort und Stelle stehen. Ist dieses Problem jemandem bekannt? Gerne möchte ich versuchen, das Problem selber beheben. Mir wäre schon sehr geholfen, wenn ein R8 oder R9-User kurz an seiner Kamera nachschauen könnte, ob der kleine Hebel am Bajonett, der die Blende überträgt von selbst zurück-federt. Bin Dankbar um jede Hilfe Grüsse Florian

Hello everyone, I have a ASA light blinking for 16 seconds or so each time i press the release button. I assumed that the asa is not correctly set...but it is.... I am not sure what to do. Did you ever have this problem? Thank you very much in advance for your help. greetings. m.

My M9's setting dial has started acting weird. For exposure compensation it doesn't go in sequence but keeps jumping back and forth. Same happens while zooming in play mode. It is very annoying on otherwise functioning camera. Before I send it for repair under warranty, I wanted to find out whether anybody else has the issue and whether there is a quick fix (hate to be without M9 for weeks ). I checked for the obvious dust around setting dial, rotating it back and forth many times in case there is something stuck inside, firmware upgrade... Nothing solved it. This is my first post here. I have been lurking and reading informative posts so far. Wonderful forum indeed.

Hallo erstmal, ich bin seit Dezember stolzer Besitzer einer M2. Zunehmend interessiert mich die Blitzfotografie, also habe ich kürzlich einen Blitznippel gekauft, um meinen Stabblitz von Braun (LZ 42) an ihr betreiben zu können. Natürlich wird der Blitz nicht gezündet... Alles überprüft, alles scheint in Ordnung. Also kurzum den Blitz an meine Minolta XD-7 und Zorki 4K angeschlossen. Kein Fehler, der Blitz löst wunderbar aus. Sogar bei lasch eingestecktem Kabel. Drücke ich den Stecker vom Blitz, mit Kraft Richtung Blitzbuchse, löst der Blitz bei meiner M2 auch aus. Wieso tut er das nicht ohne Kraftaufwand? Ich muss mich schließlich darauf verlassen können, dass alles funktioniert. Bei meiner Olympus 35 RC übrigens das gleiche Problem. -> Blitz löst nur bei Druck gegen den Synch-Kontakt aus. Lieben Gruß Tobi PS: Mir ist von Nikon der AS-15 Blitzadapter aufgefallen. Um das Kabel nicht ständig zu belasten wäre es doch sinnvoll, diesen auf den Blitzschuh zu setzen und mit dem Synch Kontakt der Kamera zu verbinden, und den Blitz selbst über den Blitzschuh laufen zu lassen. Wäre dies sinnvoll? Ich plane den Blitz überwiegend entfesselt zu benutzen.

Ich bin neu im Forum und habe bei meiner V-Lux30 Probleme mit der GPS-Funktion. Selbständig sucht das Gerät praktisch nie die neue Position. Erst über dem Menupunkt "Aktualisieren" sucht es die neue Position. Das dauert mindestens 3 Minuten. Das Gerät findet dann auch 3-6 Satelliten. Hat jemand ähnliche Probleme (gehabt?) und wie wurde das gelöst. Bin für jede Anregung diesbezüglich dankbar. Hatte mir die Camera extra wegen dieser Funktion gekauft und bin jetzt sehr enttäuscht . Digitale Grüße Günter Brunnert

Hello, It's my first post on the forum, so a quick introduction: I live in Amsterdam and I'm the very proud owner of an M6 and an M3, the latter recently acquired seemingly in tip-top shape, serial 1 034 xxx. I've discovered a strange issue though, that I've yet to find a reference to on the forum or the web at large: it seems I can wind the shutter and shoot without encountering any resistance well past the frame 40 (where the counter stops). This of course is with 36 positions film loaded properly (Ilford XP2 and HP5+), as the two red dots keep turning until about frame 36-7 or so. After that, the dots no longer turn, but the shutter winds/cocks and shoots without issues, the frame advances to 40 and the stops, and I can still keep going at it. Miffed, I switch to R and rewind the film back into the canister. I can clearly hear the film moving inside, and finally there's a slight tension (but just ever so slight) followed by a much freer, lighter movement of the rewind knob which makes it clear that film's wound all in. Indeed taking out the canister shows it is. This happened twice already with both films I've shot on the camera. What could be happening? My M6 clearly doesn't allow me to keep on winding like a madman, reaching the end of the film prevents the winder to work, lest the film be broken off the canister. My only speculation is that the teeth engaging the sprockets are very slippery and just won't pull the film at some point, preferring to slip. Could this have anything to do with my not winding back the film a little bit during loading, before shooting frames -2 and -1? Please, any thoughts! Kind regards, Radu

Hallo Liebe Forumgemeinde, verzeiht mir bitte, sollte ich mein Anliegen in einem falschen Forum gepostet haben. Auch seid mir bitte nicht böse, dass sich meine Frage auf ein nicht von Leica hergestelltes Produkt bezieht. Ich bin ein glücklicher Besitzer einer Leica M8.2 und bis vorkurzem auch glücklich mit meinem Voigtländer 35 mm F/1.2 ASPH. II gewesen. Beide haben mir viele schöne Fotostunden beschert und obwohl ein Objektiv von Leica meine erste Wahl wäre, so musste ich mich doch nach langem Hinundher aus wohl bekannten Gründen für Voigtländer entscheiden. Aber auch die Fähigkeiten dieses Objektivs haben mich überzeugt. Bei Ofenblende war die Schärfe ausgezeichnet, etwas abgeblendet hat das Objektiv auch bald die Leica-Qualität eingeholt (Nur meine Meinung). Soviel dazu. Aber vor drei Tagen ging die Schärfe auf ein Mal gänzlich verloren. Naja, die Ergebnisse sind mit "unscharf" eher nicht richtig umschrieben. Aber bevor ich das Problem aufwendig beschreibe, stelle ich lieber ein paar Beispielfotos rein, damit ihr euch selbst ein Bild davon machen könnt. Aufnahme vor einem Monat bei F/1.2, unbearbeitet Gestern bei F/1.2: Auf F/1.4 abgeblendet: Auf F/2.4 abgeblendet: und auf F/5.6 abgeblendet: Wie man sehen kann, verschwindet die milchige "Unschärfe" zum größten Teil, je weiter man abblendet. Aber der Unterschied zwischen dem ersten Foto, wie ich es eigentlich von dem Objektiv gewohnt bin, und dem folgenden ist gewaltig. Ich war mit der Kamera und mit dem Objektiv bei Meister Camera in Berlin. Ein freundlicher Verkäufer ließ mich dort meine Kamera mit einem anderen Objektiv und mein Objektiv an einem anderem Body ausprobieren. Wir konnte das Problem auf jeden Fall eingrenzen: M8.2 ist sauber, aber mein Objektiv ist nicht in Ordnung. Nun das plötzliche Auftreten dieser Unschärfe lässt natürlich vermuten, dass ich das Objektiv aus Versehen irgendwo angestoßen haben könnte. Aber nein, das ist nicht passiert. Also vermutete der Verkäufer eine Dejustierung des Objektivs, entstanden durch... keine Ahnung... Mit meinem Halbwissen war ich aber etwas überrascht, da ich mir eine Dejustierung im Sinne von Front- oder Backfocus vorstelle, und in meinem Fall war es offensichtlich nicht der Fall. Aber ich vertraute erst einmal der Meinung des Verkäufers. Er empfahl mir eine Reparaturwerkstatt, die ich gleich darauf besuchte. Aber dort hielt man nichts von einer Dejustierung. Man konnte sich jedoch, nach einer Stunde Untersuchen, Schütteln, Testen usw., den Fehler nicht erklären. Daher hat man sich, nachvollziehbarerweise, geweigert, die Reparatur durchzuführen. Nun zu meiner Frage an euch: Ist denn jemandem so was ähnliches schon Mal passiert (Markenunabhängig)? Oder hat vielleicht jemand eine Ahnung, wie so was zustande kommen könnte? Wohl oder übel werde ich das Objektiv an den Hersteller zum Reparieren einsenden müssen. Trotzdem möchte ich das Problem verstehen – wer nicht fragt bleibt dumm. Für eine Antwort danke ich euch schon mal im Voraus. Schöne Grüße aus Berlin. Oleg

After 3 months working with my nice D-Lux6 i have a Problem: After 1/2 Minuts on the screen the warning shut off / on the Camera, or another Warning. Error O.i.S. Image stabilizator I Set O.I.S. off in all Menues but the block and the Warning after approximativ 1minuts again How to set factory default? Within the first minuts the camera working fine, way the message?

Sometimes a photo gets a wrong capture time has anyone noticed this before? I have seen this 3 times already but cannot detect a pattern, the capture time is just a few hours wrong. (I have the latest firmware installed). Any help would be appreciated. If more people notice this we might get Leica's attention to fix this.

I just bought an M8 camera in good condition with about 4750 shoots. Yesterday however something very strange happens. I had an 8GB 30 MB/sec San Disk card into the camera with various photos from last days. Yesterday I took some photos in 2 different places and I was able to see all photos in the LCD of the camera. When I put the card on my Mac Book Pro and C1 to retrieve the photos , to my surprise some of them was not there !! In fact I could see all photos of the previous days , I could see the last shoots of yesterday , but I lost all photos I took early yesterday !! What I also found is that for mysterious reason some of the last pictures, took the numbers of pictures I previously deleted !!! Not good to loose photos , never happens again all this years with various cameras ... Any explanation ? Has anyone similar experience ?