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Showing results for tags 'leica m7'.
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Hi, I had Leica M6 classic. UPS lost the package and obviously I’m going to get the insurance.Now I have to see what to buy. My Leica M6 was super, but I have to recognize that the manual exposure control and manual focusing make me slow. I lose time and distract from what I shoot. From one side M7 seems to be a very good option, from all reviews I see the owners aré happy and enjoy it. I know M7 is with electronic exposure and M6 is fully manual , but is M7 serviceable? Is M7 so bad? And because I’m not sure wether I’m going to find M6 in same mint condition like one I had, the another option is to buy brand new MP. I know MP is “mechanical perfection” and it is nice and mechanical, but it is with manual exposure. what are your recommendations?
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This is from the latest roll of film received back from the processors today. Taken on the Leica M7 with the 35mm Summarit f2.5 using Ilford 400 Delta film. Gerry
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Another Auto Gem in and around Portland, OR SE Belmont Street Leica M7 Summicron 50mmƒ2.0 Kodak Portra 400 Scanned Plustek Opticfilm 7600i Eric Eric Patrick McCormack Photography - Fine Art and Portrait Photography Flickr: E_Mack's Photostream
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Hello everyone, I have a ASA light blinking for 16 seconds or so each time i press the release button. I assumed that the asa is not correctly set...but it is.... I am not sure what to do. Did you ever have this problem? Thank you very much in advance for your help. greetings. m.
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- blinking asa light
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I am new to film Leica and have problems with loading the films. It should be easy but it is not for me. I think I am doing something wrong and need some help. 1. the spool: in the MP spool there are 3 metal leaflets that turns. Do I insert the leading end of the film into it (like between 2 metal leaflets) or around it? 2. my 2nd roll did not stop after the last frame. So it just kept going forward after frame 38... then I cannot rewind. I think it is ripped off on the last winding. How can this happen? I had to open it (exposed it) and then used a forceps to remove it. 3. there is no indication that the film is properly loaded like the "turning knob" on the M7, M6 that i have read and viewed on you tube. How can you tell? 4. next is How to do longer exposure than 4 seconds on MP? can you give me a website where I can read about it?
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"woman in window" what do you think about life? is it important to you? are you important? does it matter, that you exist, breath, think, procreate? why do you look at me like that? do you search for answers? answers from me? i ain't got no answers. i ain't got no answers. i ain't got nothing.
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Another series from our recent Montana trip. I asked my brothers to go out and play there guitars. It was a bit cold but having grown up in Michigan it was not a stretch for them. I wanted to get the fading sun and get them together to play it was pretty cool. They just started playing and I started shooting.
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I am looking for a suitable flash unit to use with my M7. I know most Leica users don't use flash but I quite like and I like experimenting so I thought I would try it out. Im just not sure what flash unit to use, I want to use it for fill flash but I think I need to get a flash that will allow faster sync speeds. If anyone has some experience using flash on the M7 then I would much appreciate your input. Thanks.
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Since a few years m7 has been my "first" camera. Lenses: 12mm (CV) + 35 cron asph + 50 cron + 75 cv F2,5) . When travelling I was used to have a Nikon FM2 (with 50mm F 1,4) as back up. Reason of this choice was that with the 50mm I can focus up to 30 cm for details. Most of time leaving one camera in hotel an going out with one lens on the camera + 1 lens in the pocket depending on the daily expectations about what to shoot. Sometimes iso 100 in one camera and 400 in the other. Mostly B&W. Last winter I bought my first digital camera and I went for the x1, because of the sensor, OVF and the 35 equivalent lens (35 is the lens I use 70% of times on the m7). Last week I went for a short holiday in south germany and after a long thinking I decided to take with me the m7 (35-50-75) and the x1. Idea was to have a relaxing holiday and taking some pictures, not to make a journey in order to take "the best photo of my life". The idea was to use the m7 with an iso 100 B&W film and the x1 for some family color snaps and for the need of higher iso. Positive points (IMHO) : I appreciated many times the possibility to set the x1 at 800/1.600 iso and shoot in low light situation, which I could not have done with the m7 (100 iso in it). In difficult light situations I could chimp. But what surprised me was the fact that I almost never used the m7 because "easier" just to set to 100 iso the x1 and take pictures. Even if I had the m7 with me all the time! It seems me that having a digital camera beside the film one causes a kind of "laziness" which forces me to work with it. I do not like to go in direction of a film versus digital old annoying story, but I'm just curious if the members here who own both a film M and a digital M are using them in the same occasion. I think in future when holiday is the main point to use just the x1, if I have a serious project in mind to use again the film combo M7+FM2. Any comment about ? thanks and sorry for long post, robert PS: I am not sure if this had to be posted in the x1 forum or in film forum, it seems me here could be of more interest.
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I love my M7, but I have been noticing that i consistently miss the framing on my photos because i find the 50mm frame lines to be inaccurate on the vertical plane. My photos are consistently framed higher than I think they will be when I'm looking through the viewfinder and taking the photos. (The result is that i often cut off people's feet when I intended to capture their entire bodies.) This is most common when I'm in the 8 to 25 feet range. I thought it might result from my eye not being aligned, but moving my eye around doesn't really change my view of the framing enough to suggest that it's the problem. Does anyone else have this issue with the 50mm M7 frame lines? The most accurate frame lines I use, oddly, are the 35mm lines with my 40mm Summicron on my original M8.
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Hi everybody, I just wanted to post the serial number of my Leica M7 which got stolen yesterday in Spain after a robbery, maybe, you'll never know, if somebody sees it being offered at Ebay or other some other online auction website... The serial number is : 2779381 The lens on it is a Voigtländer Nokton 50/1.1 Please, if someone ever sees it being offered online, contact me !!!
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I need some help to decide, I’ve just sold my M4-P with M6 top-plate, and now I want to upgrade but which one is best, a used M6 TTL for $1750 (Canadian dollars) or a used M7 for $1000 more? Thank in advance
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Hallo tapfere Mitstreiter, ich würde gerne ab und zu mal etwas "anblitzen". Extra dafür einen weiteren Blitz zu kaufen lohnt sich aber für mich nicht. Der manuelle Modus mittels Blitzbelichtungsmesser ist mir dabei ausreichend. Ich habe noch ein Canon Speelite 430EX und frage mich, ob ich damit meine M7 zerstören würde. Im englischen Teil dieses Forum wurde schon mal positiv mit Fremdblitzen berichtet. Kann mir jemand weiter helfen, oder hat einen Tip? Danke und Gruß Roesel
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Hallo liebes Leica Forum, nachdem ich längere Zeit immer wieder die diversen Foren durchgestöbert habe und schon einige offene Fragen klären konnte, habe ich mich jetzt hier angemeldet, damit ich eine konkrete Frage an euch erfahrene Leica Fotografen stellen kann. Obwohl ich im Mode-Bereich fast ausschließlich digital mit Canon und Hasselblad arbeite, fällt mir im Kunstbereich immer wieder auf, dass ich mich zu meinen analogen Fotos deutlich mehr hingezogen fühle als zu den digitalen und für Ausstellungen nur analoge Fotos auswähle. Deshalb habe ich mich entschlossen der Leica M eine Chance zu geben. Ich hatte eine Woche lang die Gelegenheit eine M6 + 35 Summarit auszuleihen und die Ergebnisse sind WOW. Als Kamera werde ich ziemlich sicher ein Demomodel einer M7 nehmen, aber die Objektive, die Objektive.... Der Plan: Ein bis zwei Objektive zum Anfang. Möglichkeiten: 1) 50 Summilux oder 2) 35 Summicron oder 3) 35 Summarit & 50 Summarit Die Logik sagt mir 35 + 50, aber ich habe in der Fotografie immer wieder die Erfahrung gemacht, mit einem günstigeren Teil anzufangen, nur um es dann wieder auf ebay zu verkaufen, weil es eben doch nicht gereicht hat. Ich möchte die Leica eigentlich aussschließlich für Available Light Fotografie einsetzen, habe aber kein Problem einen 400 TRI-X auf 1600 zu pushen. Was sagt Eure Erfahrung??? Danke und viele Grüße Oliver
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I have a 2854xxx black M7 0.85. I have read about different rangefinders being built into the batches of the later M7. I see, that my M7 does suffer from the same issues, my 0.72 M6 classic suffers (whiteout, low contrast with strong back light, … ). Although I can live with that, as I am already accustomed to it, I am very interested in which camera I have here. How can I find out?
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I have been looking around for some Leica M Rangefinders. I have narrowed it down to a few: M4-2, M4-p, m6, m7. Which one would you suggest? I am leaning more towards the M4 options but i do knot know the difference between the two, nor the others for that matter. Thanks in advanced for your help. Edit: What are your thoughts on the Voigtländer 15mm, for landscapes and such. I am also considering a summicron 50mm f/2. Any other thoughts of good lenses, not too expensive.
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I just got a Zeiss Ikon ZM. My initial impression was wow! The viewfinder in it is just wonderful - after looking through it, I dont want to go back to the Leica's (it has the MP finder). It is bright and clear - rather like others have noticed for the wide angle viewfinders. However, to pick up and hold (sorry, that should probably be fondle), the Leica wins every time. But to actually look through and focus, the Zeiss is the winner.
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I just tried the new Retro 100 TONAL (Orthopan) film in CG-512. E.I. 50, 14:00 minutes at 24 C. M7 + Summicron 2,0/50mm The regular film speed in AM74/RHS is E.I. 80-E.I. 100. The Orthopan film goes till 625nm and in 135-36 it has been made on 100 micron clear Polyester layer. The film is very flat so easy to enlarge or scan. Due to the very fresh emulsion the Ortho sensitizer tends to have white spotts in the negative due to the Calcium salts. So the new emulsion must be developed in a developer made in destilled water.
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I haven't posted for quite some time because being a street photographer when there is virtually nobody on the streets during these crazy times is difficult. This was taken prior to the time when we knew the term COVID-19 in 2017. Leica M7 + 35mm Summarit-MM f2.5. Fuji Neopan 400CN (C-41) film commercially processed and then scanned by me. Gerry
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This was taken before the coronavirus problems we now all have. Leica M7 + Fuji Neopan T400CN film commercially processed and home scanned. Gerry
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This from a film received back from the lab this week. Leica M7 with 50mm Zeiss Sonnar f1.5 and taken on Kodak Tri-X at 320iso. Lab processed and then processed using Lightroom Classic.
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I haven't posted for a while for various personal reasons, but this came back from the lab today. Hope you like it Leica M7 + 35mm Summarit-M f2.5 - Kodak TMY Gerry
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I took this charming image candidly at my favourite café. It is not my normal practice to talk to my subjects, but if there are children involved I normally introduce myself and explain what I have done and ask for permission to use the image. I don't recall ever having been refused, although it is slightly more awkward shooting film as opposed to digital because you cannot show the parent the image. This young mother was quite happy with what I had done. Leica M7 + 35mm Summarit-M f2.5 using Kodak T-Max 400 and only available light. 1/125 @ f2.8
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Another from my latest film back from the lab. This was taken on the M7 prior to getting rid of it (big mistake!) using the 35mm Summarit-M f2.5. Film is Kodak T-Max400 processed by Harman Labs who do a pretty good job. No idea of exposure (sorry) but was available light only. I particularly love the face of the little child in the background. Gerry
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