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Found 33 results

  1. Hi. For many years with large format cameras, and also with the Leica iiiG I used to use at work in the 1970's, we always had some focusing charts to use. The other day I was in a church doing a close up in fairly dim light. Every now and then the sun would shine through the window onto my subject. Peak focus on live view helped, though I had to be quick to catch the 10 seconds of sunlight! It took me back to the old focus charts we used to use. Various sizes from A4 (or Foolscap!!) down to postcard size. So I went hunting to see what is available now, and found these test sheets supposedly for Canon/Epson printers. I printed some out at postcard-ish and A4 size on my HP printer, and laminated them too. Will be trying them out this weekend. Here is where I got them if anyone one would find them useful. "Focusing" charts
  2. Useink!

    The Lost Toy

    From the album: Richard's Favourite Ex-Q's

    Found sitting on a fencepost whilst walking near Lane End.

    © Useink! Richard Blaiklock

  3. I realize that manual focusing works well when the VISO is attached. === Is there any way to use automatic focus when the VISO is attached? I doubt it, especially as the screen goes to black as the eye approached the VISO. Just wondering. === In manual focus with the VISO on board, is there any way to toggle between X3 and X6 magnification?
  4. Hi guys, just bought a T with 11-23 and 55-135, upgraded to fw 1.43 and I have noticed the when the tele is fitted I have 5 Auto Focus options instead of the standard 3 (M, AFs, AFc): the menu shows also AFs and AFc with a couple of small arrows on the sides, as shown in the pictures. I looked on Manuals, forum, etc, with our finding what do they mean. Any idea?? Many thanks!
  5. I took some photos at the Whitney the other day. This photo of Shapolsky et al displayed some peculiar focus on the right side of the photo. Looking at the text, it looks like there is motion blur on the text on the right, but not on the text on the left. Is this just a common type of focus blur on wide-open, wide-angle shots? Or could there be something going on with the lens or camera (M9)?
  6. With just T lenses in mind, what is your preferred focusing method and why? Always Manual? Always Automatic? Depends. Your preferred Automatic method? Which method do you NOT use and why?
  7. Hello, I was shooting the other day, and noticed when i tried to focus on some towers (miles away from Brooklyn) on my M240/50 Lux ASPH at infinity the double images are ever so slightly off. even the focus peaking was not on the spot. When i tried with another lens, the double image were ok ! so i believe the lens need to be readjusted for infinity ? if so should i sent to leica or there are other reputable place in the US that can do it quicker...? Thanks for your help ! Best Vadim
  8. Guest

    lenses for M9 and m240

    I had my lenses adapted to the M9 (e.g. distance / focus of each lens was syncronised to this particular M9) now I am going to buy a M240, I am wondering if the distance / focus will be correct to the M240 too Does anyone have appropriate experince ? Thank you very much for your reply
  9. I just received a brand new Leica M 240. One of the things I notice is that the spit image focusing through the view finder, at least for me, is not nearly as clear as my M9 or my MM. That is to say, that one of the two images created in the spit image section of the view finder is very clear, while the other is very faint. This makes focusing, particularly in low light situations less effective. Has anyone else experienced this? Or do I, perhaps, have a defective model? I hope this is not a redundant question. Your thoughts are appreciated.
  10. I love my D2, but unfortunately I found a problem in Digilux 2 manual focus @ infinity. Basically manual focus @ infinity will not focus on infinity at all. Here is my test: [1] Put camera on tripod, set aperture @ F2, set zoom @ 28 mm, and set focus distance at infinity. I took a picture, and I found both foreground and background are blur, and I don't even know where is the focus. [2] Set focus @ AF, point to infinity, and took second picture when AF indicate light is green. this picture is very sharp, both background and foreground, which is expected. It looks like this problem only occur at bigger aperture (F2, F2.8, F4), when I use F5.6 and F8, manual focus @ infinity seems work fine, I got sharp image. I think this issue will make manual "zone focus" difficult. I am not sure if this happened to me, or someone else also experienced the same issue? thanks a lot!!
  11. Hello, I am reading this forum for quite a while now and finally got my own Leica M6 about two weeks ago. I bought the camera from a German dealer on Ebay, optically it's in perfect condition and I was very happy... until I got my first scans back. I am experiencing the worst front focus issues I've ever had with any camera. After the first roll I thought it's me, after the second roll I was suspicious and then shot the third roll testing the focus. Except for the minimal focusing distance, every single image is off. And not only slightly. Now my question to the Leica pro's here in the forum: How do I know the camera is the problem and not the lens? The rangefinder alignment "seems" fine - It's ok on infinity and the vertical alignment looks great. I did the mirror test (sticking tape on a mirror, focusing the lens on 1m, then bringing the tape in focus and focusing on the lens - and it does show 2m). If I focus on the moon (infinity), it's perfectly in focus. I only have a Nokton 35mm 1.4 which I bought new from a dealer. Is it possible that the rangefinder is totally off even though it "looks" ok? I am very reluctant to return the M6 because it's in such great condition optically. The only issues I could find is the long times are a little too long and dust specs in the finder. Everything else seems to be ok. Any ideas are really appreciated. Thank you guys! Johnny
  12. Hello folks! New to the forums. I have a m6 that I'm been using with a 2.5 50mm cron. I'm getting superb images overall, however I feel like there are some that are not coming back sharp or in focus. Especially ones focused at infinity. I'm wondering if it's an issue with my m6 or cron. A few images attached as example. Thoughts?
  13. Hi all, does anyone have an explanation, or better yet, a solution, for this: I a seeing some strange focus behavior with the Q in combination with a flash unit (Nikon SB-800). In short, with the flash switched on and using auto focus, the focus will not lock when keeping the shutter release half way pressed. To be more precise: Switch on the flash Auto focus on a subject and keep shutter release half pressed Change composition while keeping the shutter release halfway pressed Press shutter release all the way Unexpected: The Q now refocuses before taking the shot ! Leave the flash on the Q but switch it off Repeat step 2 through 4 Now it works as expected; no refocussing. Focus is still on the target set in step 2. The flash is in Manual. So is the Q exposure. Q is in AFs setting. Flash settings: "Flash mode: On", "Flash exp. comp: 0", "Flash sync: Start of exp", though I have tried changing these and some settings on the flash, but to no avail... Anyone?
  14. Hi community, I am quite new to the Leica Q and I expect the following to be a beginner's question. But, it is worrying me or at least I want to ensure that the phenomenon is not the cause of a technical issue. I am using the Leica Q in program automatic (aperture and time), multi-field metering and center-weighted metering. Auto focus is set to "single" mode, not continuous! (AF-S) My expectation was that whenever I press the shutter halfway through, the green rectangles indicate what is going to be in focus. Pressing it completely through should take the shot immediately. This works in 95% of the cases but sometimes it seems that the lens has to refocus when pressing the shutter completely through which causes a delay of 1-2 seconds! This is quite confusing as the moment was gone in those cases. Is this a technical issue or a normal behavior? I am not quite sure whether this happened with my SLR as well when I used in in auto mode! Thanks a lot for the help in advance! Cheers, Julian
  15. Hi, habe eine wahrscheinliche Anfaengerfrage zur Leica Q und dessen Autofokus. Szenario: Programmautomatik (Blende und Zeit) Mehrfeldmessung Mittenbetont Normalerweise funktioniert der Autofokus problemlos. Ich druecke den Ausloeser halb durch, die gruenen Quadrate zeigen die Fokuspunkte an. Durchdruecken macht direkt ohne Verzoegerung das foto. Ab und zu kommt es jedoch vor, dass die Kamera nachfokussiert (scheint so) und es somit zu einer verzoegerung von 1-2 Sekunden kommt. Nahm an, dass sobald der Ausloeser halb durchgedrueckt wurde, das Bild bei kompletten durchdruecken so gemacht wird, ohne Verzoegerung! Ist das ein normales Verhalten? Meine bei meiner Spiegelreflex war das damals nicht. Moechte nur sicherstellen dass das kein technischer Fehler ist. Danke im Voraus. Beste Gruesse Julian
  16. Early this morning just after the sun had risen, I attempted to take some travel photos and thought I'd been successful only to learn tonight that everything I took was out of focus. I had previously been using manual focus and forgot to switch it back to Auto. Normally I would have caught this quickly, but this morning with the sun shining very brightly and often directly into my eyes, I failed to notice the error. I am posting this as an opportunity for others to learn from my own dumb mistake. Part of the issue was the rear LCD was totally unusable in the bright light. When using the EVF, I expected to see the focus rectangle in the middle of the screen, but when I did not, I assumed it was there, but the bright light was masking it. I now understand that when in manual focus there is no rectangle at all. Makes sense when you think about it. So, I wasn't seeing any rectangle red or green color because I was in manual mode. Don't be a dummy like me. I make so many mistakes with cameras and I do my very best to learn from them, but it does seem it's the nature of the beast somewhat. Here''s what would have been a decent shot OOF. Ugh!
  17. Friends: A question on focus on the M9-P: With the 50mm Sumilux M shooting at f/1.4 I cannot get sharp focus inside 1.5 meters from the subject. I tried: Using the patches to align as perfectly as possible Setting camera on tripod and a tape measure to determine distance and set focus. Both methods don't focus where it should. As a result f/1.4 and its "beautiful bokeh" seem to be unattainable. How can I get good results? Thanks amigos, Migs
  18. In his current newsletter, TvO reviews the new Leica 75 Noctilux lens. I don't have an M, but a guy can always dream. Anyway, I'm cutting and pasting his interesting thoughts about focusing, which apply to any digital camera, really, not just a range finder, if it has a manual focus mode (and even if it has peak focusing): http://overgaard.dk/Leica-75mm-Noctilux-f-1-25-review-and-sample-photographs.html The secret sauce to focusing with a rangefinder is: be sloppy! Focus like you know how to do it, be reckless about it. The harder you try, the harder it gets. It means that you turn the focus ring (usually clockwise, as seen from behind the camera), and the moment the focus matches, take the photo. Then either move slightly back and forth with the body until you see that it matches again, then take another photo. Or, turn the focusing ring counter-clockwise back, then clockwise again until you see it matches, then take the photo. Don't turn the focusing ring back and forth to "nail the focus" or "test where the most focus is", because it's not an old safe that will open magically when you hit the right combination. Trust what you see, and when you see that the focus matches, press the shutter. The result of this will likely be that some photos will be in focus, and some won't. But you just need one that is in focus, and that's why you may take a few to make sure you get it. Don't think that it's supposed to always work with just one single photo, and that if you can't do that, you have failed the test to enter the Leica Cult. Here's how it works: You put on the EVF to get a Live View of the scene, and as you focus, the EVF 10X's the view so you can really nail the focus. Then you take the picture. Ah, this is the way to make sure you don't mess up this focusing thing, you think. What do you know? Some times that works, some times that doesn't work. "That's strange", you think. "I really have no talent for this manual focusing". Stop blaming yourself. Take some more photos instead! What happens is that you focus, and before you take the photo, the subject moves, or you do, or you accidentally turn the focusing ring a tad as you take the photo. It doesn't really matter what it is, but that's the way it is. To make sure you get one or two that are as much in focus as intended, you take a few and re-focus for each. You don't refocus, take the photo, then check the screen of the camera. No, you focus, take the photo, refocus and take another one. Never check that screen for other than the exposure. Even when it is really sharp, it doesn't look as sharp on the screen. And often when it looks really sharp on the screen, it isn't (but is just high contrast that makes the picture on the screen look really crisp). Let's repeat: Be sloppy. Focus, take a photo, re-focus and take another. Keep doing just that.
  19. Hi everybody, I'm texting cause I need your help and wisdom. I've noticed that on my Summicron 35mm f2 (made Canada) when I turn the focus ring to the closest distance possible the ring doesn't stop exactly at 0,7m but goes beyond, while instead when turned to the farther distance possible it perfectly stops at infinte symbol. I wonder if this could affect the focusing. Is it normal and common on every Cron? Thanks to all of those who will help me )
  20. I am curious to learn if anyone else is having problems with the Leica SL when shooting moving subjects. When shooting a moving subject, like a dog coming towards the camera, the Focus Point (green rectangle in viewfinder) jumps around and does not stick to the subject - it is almost like the Focus Mode is set to “Face Detection” (which it is not). If I continue to hold the shutter release half way down, & slightly recompose the image, the Focus Point tries to stay on the spot that it originally focused upon. Is there a way to set up the Auto Focus so that the Focus Frame/Point stays on the selected moving subject, rather than it jumping around the frame sporadically? Here are the camera settings I started with, though I have experimented with changing all of them. The problem is not quite as bad using the Single Focus Mode rather than the Continuous Mode. Focus Mode: Auto Focus Continuous (or Single Focus) Drive Mode: Continuous Medium Auto Focus Field Size: “Field” (or single point or zone) Auto Focus Mode: Dynamic (Tracking) Thanks, Mark Weidman
  21. I had my camera and all lenses calibrated for back focus issue by Leica NJ 2 months ago. I thought everything was good until now I just realized the patch at infinity isn't completely aligned on my 35mm Summilux. Thanks to a newly acquired 1.4x diopter. I see double lines with tiny space in between when I point at construction grids at infinity. My 90mm APO doesn't have that. It is sort of minute, am I being too picky?
  22. Hi there, I brought myself finally a Leica Q last week. Its a really nice camera, but I have one issue I dont know if its a bug or a settings problem: If I half press the release button, the camera is focusing. I hold the button half pressed down until my subject is ready for the picture. If I press the button fully down (without releasing it), I assume the camera is taking the picure, but what it does is its focusing again and the taking the picture. I have set the mode switch to "S" and AF Mode to "1 point". Setting the Zoom button to "AEL/AFL" does not work either. Pressing or holding the button does nothing! With settings to Zoom the button works as expected. A reset of the camera settings did not help. Am I doing something wrong? Kind regards, Sebastian
  23. Hello, I want to share with you my last experience with the SL. It was the first studio session on location I had, mixing strobes and ambient light, since I purchased the SL. During this session I have had a really hard times trying to focus on some faces during this group & portrait session yesterday! I was in a white walls area and the ambient light was rather normal (sunny day). I was shooting with a moderate natural and clear back-light coming from 2 windows. I used 2 strobes on the persons. Most of the time, I was more or less able to focus easily, but on one face it was almost impossible, wherever I set the focus point on the sensor, to focus! I had to add a side continuous light to be able to focus. And even so it was not obvious to achieve it right all the time.😳 To be honest, I am a little disappointed by the "lack of power" of the AF response. Even my previous DSLR (Nikon D800 & Pentax K1....) were better in low or contrasted lights than the SL. 🤔 On a more positive side the image quality (especially skin tons) is far better than everything I had in hands before. 🤩 Has anyone gone through such difficulties and is there a better camera setting to insure better results? Many thanks in advance for your educated advice. 😁
  24. Hey! The viewfinder of my M8 doesn't show the focusing from 0.7 to 0.5 meters with Nokton 35mm f/1.2 II . It just gets stuck at 0.7 meters. Is that a known issue?
  25. Hello guys, I found that my lecia m4 RF alignment need to adjust. However, when I want to screw the biggest bolt in the mount, I found that I can't screw it. It totally fixed. I google a lot of article, but I don't find anyone else has same problem like me. AS a result I come here to ask you guys; is there anyone had same problem like me?8
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