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Showing results for tags 'lightmeter'.
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Hi I have recently bought two Leica M6 cameras with various problems, and are wondering which one to keep. The best looking one is a Wetzlar M6 and has the following problems: - The rangefinder patch flares significantly more than the other M6. This seems to be caused by haze on the inside of the rangefinder window. My leica CL has less flare than both. - After the shutter trips, I am able to see a little bit of the seam on the left hand side of the shutter looking inside of the camera from behind. It is somewhat visible when looking straight on and compared to the other M6 it is a bit more visible in general. Might be a problem according to https://www.cameraquest.com/leicamchecklist.htm -Winding the shutter also makes a rubbing sound which the other M6 does not. - The other M6 also has smoother winding lever and more dampened shutter button than the Wetzlar M6. The other M6 is a big logo version made in the Sloms factory - The light meter on this one is sometimes off by more than 4 stops, even with a new battery. Other times it can be correct, but the arrows don't light up like the Wetzlar M6. I am never able to get the two arrows to light up evenly. One of the arrows is always stronger than the other. This means that the light meter goes from for example totally overexposed (only one arrow) -> a bit overexposed( one arrow brighter than the other) -> a bit underexposed (the other arrow brighter than the other) -> Totally underexposed (only one arrow). According to the manual I am missing the double arrows correct exposure light. - The white circle on the wound shutter curtain is also a bit faded and not evenly white from right to left, compared to the Wetzlar M6. - The shutter button on the big logo M6 is also a bit sticky after pressing or half pressing the shutter, making the light meter stay on indefinitely. - The 2nd shutter curtain on the big logo M6 also starts to creep in a little bit before the Wetzlar M6 when using the 1 second shutter speed. I hope you can help me decide. If both needs repair or CLA which will be the simplest and least expensive to repair? Thank you for taking the time to read through all this.
IN BUILT LIGHT METER HELP! Hey Guys, I am totally new to the forum and digital Leica's. So hello everyone :-) I am a professional photographer from Australia, I have shot a number of cameras over my career much like most of you all, here is a sample list so you can get some context of my experience with different systems and therefore my experience with different in built light meters. Nikon FM's Contax G2 Contax T2 Leica M's (film) Mamiya RZ's / RB's Hasselblad 500's Pentax 67's Linhof Technika's Over the last 5 years I have been shooting digitally with: Phase one Fuji X I have recently purchased an M10 with a couple of lenses (35mm and 50mm) for my personal / documentary work to replace the Fuji's. Amazing decision and I'm absolutely stoked to be shooting with this glorious machine. OK so here is my experience, the in built light meter is totally all over the place! I have never ever had an issue with an in built light meter quite as much as this M10. It appears to grossly underexposed all its readings, freaks out with contrasty exteriors (remember I am in Australia the light is intense no sunny 16 here). Has anyone else had this issue? Does it just take some getting used to again? Have I been too exposed to digital Fuji automated trickery too long? Settings so you know where I am at: Center-Weighted exposure metering mode. I am aware of taking a reading from my hand and slecting a point in a scene to meter from half press and then recompose. This all works. I am talking about center frame standard metering of a scene any kind of contrast or ANY bright light in a scene freaks it out. Example image of my wife and my kitchen. This is what it determined correct, the lights from the cook top 100% perfect the overall scene probably about half a stop to one full stop under in my opinion, this is what I would expect from SPOT METERING NOT Centre-Weighted. There are many other examples this is just a quick one. Please refrain from focusing specifically on this example image and tell me your personal experiences even if it is.... Shut up Luke it works well you're not doing it right Image metadata = ISO100, 1/25th second, F1.4
Hi, I'm new here and I created my account because I desperately need help with this and would be grateful for any help I've been using my M6 for some time now and everything has been functioning perfectly However, when I bought some new batteries for it, the light meter would stop working, while if I put the old batteries back in, everything would work again. The batteries I have tested include, LR44 alkaline battery from energizer, and a CR-1/3N lithium battery. If anyone has any idea what the problem could be, and if there are any possible fixes, it would be greatly appreciated.
Hello, I am looking for an incident light meter with very good low light capabilities. Are there any lightmeters that can messure below EV 0 or even lower? I think I read about an old Minolta Autometer II, which should be very good in this respect. Does anybody have experiences with this very modell? My Sekonic L508 is not so good for low light situations ... Thank you, Jochen