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Hi, I wonder if others had the same problem: I have a 2nd SF 24D that I use regularly with my M3 on A setting, no problem. Now, recently I obtained an M9 and tried out the 24D with it but it instantly switches to a flashing ISO 3200 and an LGN of 45. This cannot be changed by the +/- buttons, nor anything else (such as f-stop). This occurs in A and M setting (TTL/GCN I can forget - it doesn’t work at all with the M9 but reminds me to switch to A). The odd thing is that it resets once off the M9 and then the settings can be used just as normal. I tried it also on a friend’s D-Lux 5 and his ancient Digilux 2 - the former works fine on A, the latter produces the same problems as with the M9. I usually am fine working on A or M since I normally use the 24D as a filler flash but even that doesn’t work with the M9 under these circumstances. Ideas? Thanks very much raxnitz

Hello. I'm interested in hearing from anyone whose made the move from an M9/M-E to a 262. How are you feeling about your decision? I've recently replaced the sensor in my M-E, which included a full CLA from Leica, NJ. It feels like a new camera, but I'm also reminded of the only gripe I've ever really had about it: Limited ISO performance. I max out at 1200, but even that can turn a Summer afternoon into a snowy day in B/W. I'd love to (when necessary) shoot between 1600 & 3200 without the resulting photograph becoming an exploration in Pointillism. In addition, weather sealing and the larger sensor seem like a plus. Let the CCD vs CMOS debate begin! So good people... What say you? Thanx!

Hi everyone, can't believe it's 2020 already! Here's my first post of the year : ) After shooting digital with the M-D, M10 for a few years I sold all digital cameras in 2019 and shot only film for a year. It was a great experience, and moving forward my Leica M4 will continue to be my main camera. That being said I still felt I wanted a backup digital camera, mostly for B&W since my lab stopped developing it. I first thought of getting the M9M, but I'm not a fan of the black chrome finish (plus all my lenses are silver); I found a great deal on the M9P black paint and decided to get it. To be honest, I love it waay, way more than the other M digital cameras that came after it. The M10 is definitely a more robust, higher quality, modern product but for some reason I never bounded with it (I owned all 3 variations, M10, M10P, and M10D)...The M9, on the other hand, makes me feel like carrying it everywhere I go. The colors are great, B&W files look good too, and ISO is similar to film, and I even like the shutter sound ahah. Of course I still prefer the colors I get from film, but I'd say the M9 files are the next best thing. So to me, the M9 is definitely worth it in 2020 (and probably still in 2030 unless Leica makes something similar to what they achieved with this camera; I mean...who needs 41mp...just stick with the basics and work on bringing the soul of the M9 back into the new Leica lineup). I'm curious to know what you all think, what's your experience with the M9? Have you used other leicas and came back to the M9? Is it your favorite digital camera, or do you think it ran its course and is an outdated dinosaur? Would be great to hear from you, and wish you all a great 2020!

Hi everybody, I’m a computer science engineer who has been working, as a hobby, the last three years in a new, more precise, way of recreating film look with digital cameras. I’m posting here for feedback, in case anybody of you would like to test the application (with the M9) and show the results and your opinions. I usually shoot film photography but also I like the comfort of digital. The problem is that I’ve never been happy with existing film emulations. Mainly because of that, because they are emulations instead of simulations. METHOD USED For doing so, instead of doing a generic conversion for every camera, I’ve done a specialised conversion for the Leica M9 based on simulating the chemical process and spectrum response, instead of applying curves and other stuff. In the end, I thought, if analog and digital are just two instruments which capture light, I thought, maybe is there any mathematical conversion to make the digital to look like film? I mean, if I take the same photo with analog and digital, under exact same conditions (light / aperture / exposition /…) could I make them look exactly the same? It’s based on chemical simulation and the Leica M9’s response to spectrum. Then LUTs and finally some extra calibration. I think that it could be improved because I’ve used home made or open source tools for calibrating and so on, which are far from perfect. EXAMPLES (Analog vs Converted Digital) Following are some examples of Superia 200 and TriX 400. Click in each photo to see high resolution. DNGs shoots taken with Leica M9 (left), and FILM shoots taken with Minolta CLE (right) at same conditions (aperture / exposition / ISO). All shoots taken with Zeiss Biogon T* ZM 35mm f/2. The examples show several photos, which are the following: +------------------------+------------------------+ | original DNG | | +------------------------+------------------------+ | converted DNG | scanned FILM | +------------------------+------------------------+ | developed DNG | developed FILM | +------------------------+------------------------+ For the generated simulated negative TIFF file and the scanned TIFF file I’ve applied exactly the same develop parameters. TriX 400 - 1 TriX 400 - 2 TriX 400 - 3 Superia 200 - 1 Superia 200 - 2 Superia 200 - 3 Superia 200 - 4 Superia 200 - 5 Superia 200 - 6 CONCLUSIONS Tonal range - Biggest difference between digital and film Dynamic range - Digital is faaar more detailed in the blacks, film never gets burnt, meanwhile digital gets burn quite fast. Film has more microcontrast, it's more sharpen Digital is a little bit more contrast after developing, I imagine it’s because it reach white level faster, then, when doing autolevels with the developing program, as a result, it’s a more contrast image. DOWNLOAD I'm having a console application ready, if interest is shown it will be ready quite soon! CAVEHEATS / LIMITATIONS The program only accept DNG, because I need all the light captured by the camera, instead of a JPG already converted and really dependent on camera self made adjustments. The program only accepts photos taken at the ISO of the certain film that is gonna be used. For example, for TriX400 it will accept only Leica M9 DNGs at 400 ISO. I’ve also done tests with ISO 200 and 800, and the results were quite satisfactory but, for complexity reasons, I prefer to let it be native film ISO for the moment. Highlights are not always correct, and sometimes they look weird, mainly in color film. This is due to bayer sensor pattern and its different intensity response (for Red, Green and Blue channels). FUTURE (& PAST) WORK Leica M10-D Leica M8.2 THANKS Super thanks to the creator of LibRaw, a wonderful C++ library for working with RAW files. Any questions I’m open to answer 🙂 Best regards everybody. Tomás AKA “Camalogica”

1 - Skatepark (South Bank) Leica M9 + CZ c-sonnar 50mm f/1.5

Whenever I'm in Istanbul, one of my favorite areas to walk around is along the water. Here's a pic from a 2013 visit. Taken from the ferry docks at Eminönü on the Golden Horn, looking out towards Karaköy and Galata Tower. The deets: M9 Summicron 40-C (what a great lens) Post-processed in Lightroom. Saludos, S

Hello, I apologize if this has been answered somewhere before, but I searched the forum (and the web) and cannot seem to find my answer. I purchased a Leica SF24D about a year ago. On arrival, it worked flawlessly in TTL, A, M etc and overall I was pleased. It has been a few months since I have used the flash and this past weekend when using the unit, it noticed that it exhibited some behavior that I do not recall existing before. When used in TTL (and with 6 bit coded Leica lenses ) I thought I remember that when changing the F-Stop on the lens, the flash would also show the corresponding f-stop with distance on the LCD display on the flash . When using the flash this past weekend, I noticed that when changing the F-Stop on my lens, the flash was fixed on an f-stop, say 2.4. When I changed my lens from 2.4 to 8, the flash remained on 2.4. Overall, the exposure actually looked correct so it appears that that the flash is working. As a test, I adjusted ISO on camera and the ISO did change on flash. I also changed sync speeds in camera, cleaned contacts on lens, replaced batteries in flash etc. I also manually adjusted flash f-stop when in TTL mode (set flash to F8, then lens to 2.4, 5.6, 8 etc) and the exposures continued to look accurate. Am I just remembering the operation of this flash wrong? I thought the flash f-stop would show the corresponding f-stop on lens when in TTL? As for A, that is working as expected, same as M. Thanks for any insights.