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PLZ

  1. Hi all. Receiving my silver M11 (first-time M user). While I am figuring out what first Leica lens to buy, I would like to buy a couple Voigtlander lenses to get me started. What Voigtlander lenses do you recommend? I know it depends on many factors. Here is what I am looking for. 28mm (or 35mm), 50mm, and 70mm, in not particular order. I looked at the Cameraquest chart, but so confusing. Maybe start with 2lenses, 28mm and a 50mm. Thanks for the advice and feedback i know this is a Leica forum and hoping I don’t upset anyone asking this question here. 😊
  2. Portrait of Appalachian Bootlegger, The Mountain.
  3. Here is an interesting discussion on the 28mm vis-à-vis 35mm lens for documentary photography: Focal Length Feud: 28mm vs 35mm for Telling a story – by David Babaian and Simon King https://emulsive.org/articles/focal-length-feud-28-35 I have used both and at the end of the day it seems to me that either will work well, if you are willing to fine tune your shooting technique for each lens. Thoughts?
  4. Or have they secretly improved the 35m Summilux formula? Or maybe it's a curvature of field thing? (on an M9) https://www.lemondedelaphoto.com/Le-pique,5007.html (on an M11) https://www.ephotozine.com/article/leica-summilux-m-35mm-f-1-4-asph-lens-review-35877/performance
  5. So I recently got (for lack of a better word) scammed into buying a Summaron 35 2.8 with a cracked goggle (let's not get into it). The lens functions okay, but I'm wondering what my chances are of replacing the glass on the front of the goggle and what this might cost. The lens is over 60 years old, so I'm not very hopeful but wanted to check anyway. Thanks in advance for any responses.
  6. Apologies if there are similar threads to this one - I haven't been able to find answers to my questions specifically. I recently sold my M3 since I'm looking for a body that accommodates wider lenses and has a hotshoe. I don't need a built in meter and am on a budget, so I wouldn't consider the M6. I also find the M5 too bulky, so this leaves the M4-2 and M4-P. I will mainly be shooting 28mm and 35mm lenses, so the M4-P seems ideal since it provides framelines for both. My first question is therefore whether the extra cost is warranted for 28mm framelines, or if I should opt for an M4-2 and use the entire viewfinder to approximate the 28mm focal length. Also, since there are few "user condition" examples of both models available online, I'm wondering how reliable the hotshoe is on these cameras - I use flash a lot and problems in this department would be a total dealbreaker for me. Would it make a tangible difference to opt for a late M4-P, or is it safe to assume that the hotshoe will function well in most cases regardless of model or year? My instincts tell me the M4-P is the ideal camera, but since there are a few M4-2's available for very attractive prices, I'm hoping someone can convince me otherwise!
  7. Hello everyone, here's my review of the new Carl Zeiss Contax G Planar 35mm f/2 FUNLEADER conversion to Leica M. This is my first review here so I am not used to the technicalities of posting, please forgive me if I readjust things after I post. FUNLEADER Contax G35 to Leica M Conversions I have included the 7artisans 35mm f/1.4 M and the Voigtlander VM 40mm f/1.2, the only lenses in the 35mm zone I own. Disclaimers: 1. none of the lens makers / converters have been involved in these tests and I have personally purchased all 3 lenses, none of them have been provided. 2. the FUNLEADER link above contains an affiliate link with a code that will get you a 5% discount (used to be 15%, I hope they bring that back). If you purchase using the link above FUNLEADER says I will receive 10%. 3. all opinions expressed here are my own and, just like with anything in life (especially photography equipment!), you may have a different one. A few bullet points about the tests: - done on my Leica M-P typ 240 - done on a tripod with a 2 second timer to hopefully dampen most vibrations - no filters or hoods were used and lenses were extremely clean - captured at M-P's base ISO: 200 (with the exception of a few frames captured at 1.2 and 1.4 because 1/4000 was too slow to keep equal exposures so I set the ISO to PULL 100) - exposure was manual and the exposure time was adjusted accordingly with every aperture change (generally 2/3 stop) in order to hopefully maintain an even exposure between the samples - white balance was on AUTO - all focus was EXTREMELY CAREFULLY done using LIVE VIEW at f/2 for each lens, using both the focus peaking and my own eyes to make sure I get the best possible focus - focus was redone with every lens change - the 40mm was repositioned so that the main subject filled roughly the same size in the photos (as much as possible, the infinity tests obviously show the difference in focal length) - most tests were taken all all apertures but since this ended up requiring so much work I only included up to f/8, to be honest I don't think anything past that is relevant - all samples processed in Capture 1 PRO with the default output sharpening for screen (any image processor will apply some sort of sharpening from DNG to JPG) - I am sharing a Google Drive folder with all DNGs, JPGs, comparisons and misc images, all full size. Please check them out and use them for free, a credit would be nice if you end up posting them. PART 1 / 5 A morsel of history: if you're reading this you most likely know what this lens is, otherwise this info can be easily found online. The G35/2 is supposed to be the "lesser performer" of the Contax G suite, the internet is funny like that, some person deemed it once as not being as stellar as the G45/2 (which is whispered to be one of the best lenses in 35mm photography history) and the internet has taken that and transformed it into "not a good lens" kind of rumour. I am here to prove otherwise. Here's a G35 / G45 specs comparison: This 35 together with the Hologon 16mm are the only ones I do not own in G mount. I have shot all the other ones (21/2.8, 28/2.8, 45/2, 90/2.8) on my Contax G2 and adapted on my Sony A7R3 with a cheap Ulata adapter. They are sharp, very sharp wide open. And so light. Build quality: without further ado, I think FUNLEADER and Mr. Ding have done an amazing job here: the conversion is incredible, so tiny and lovely, with a great weight and feel. The focus action is nice and smooth and the little focus tab suits the lens. The black paint version is really beautiful, I have always been a black paint / lacquer fan, hence my M-P. This version will get patina with use (unless you're Lenny Kravitz and give it a good rub to look well used). The "gold" version has lovely sharp black engravings and a black focus tab. The focus tabs are really nice, placed at the perfect position where, when pointed straight downwards, the lenses focus at 4 feet / 1.2 meters. I also purchased a "gold" helicoid as I am planning to do a conversion myself. The "gold" helicoid feels like brass and it's a bit of a fingerprint magnet. The helicoid has "MR. DING" engraved on the mount. Pretty cool. I did a bit of digging and "Mr. Ding" is their master craftsman, maybe having been part of MGR Production. They are also behind the Bresson Viewfinder magnifier, which I happen to have on my M-P and love. I would love to find out more about Mr. Ding, if anyone has info please do share. The weight of the helicoid is 206g / 7.26oz and the whole lens is 266g / 9.38g The lens did have a plastic ring glued on the front, on top of the original Carl Zeiss from markings, but I removed it easily and left no marks. Sorry Mr. Ding, I prefer the original Carl Zeiss engravings. The original lens hood of the G35 / G45 fits nicely, but I have the champagne version and I personally don't think it works with either the black or the gold version. I might spray paint it with a glossy enamel. Honestly, it looks amazing on the M-P. It is a gem of a little lens and a great performer. Customer service: excellent, very responsive, I had quite a few questions for them and they replied very quickly. Packing: excellent, pragmatic, not fancy. Shipping: wowsers, the lens was in my hand in Vancouver BC Canada in 6 days, dayum! PART 2 / 5: colour, focal length, sharpness close and mid distance Two notes about colour and focal length: - colour - the G35/2 renders the most accurate and neutral colours, next is the VM 40/1.2, while the 7artisans 35/1.4 M renders quite warm - focal length - the G35/2 is a little wider than the 7artisans 35/1.4 M, I wonder what their real focal lengths are. Please do share if you happen to know. Sharpness: the G35/2 is very sharp wide open, it nearly matches the VM 40/1.2 at f2, actually honestly we are splitting hairs between the G35/2 and VM 40/1.2. Keep in mind that the VM starts at 1.2, so from a lens design pov it has a lot of room to be sharp at f2. It's quite a feat how consistent the G35/2 is all the way up to the widest apertures. The G35/2 is sharper than the 7artisans 35/1.4 M at every aperture. I was surprised as well. In all honestly, I really love the 7artisans lens, it has a really nice 3d pop and the built is absolutely amazing. Check out these 100%s of this starling at f2! I used live view, there's no way to nail that in the viewfinder patch, I also took a bunch of shots and these were the best 4, maybe out of 12 or so. 100% full images for context I have done a few test sessions but not included all here (so much to process and compare), so here are a few. Before every comparison chart you will see a half size G35/2 image at f2, for no reason really other than to show you what the whole scene looked like. Session 1 close: Session 1 mid distance: Session 4 close: Session 4 mid distance: Session 5 close: Session 6 close: PART 3 / 5: sharpness at infinity Session 3 infinity (center and corner): Session 7 infinity (center and corner): PART 4 / 5: bokeh and conclusion Session 1 mid distance: Session 2 mid distance: Session 6 close: Vignetting: yea a bit, but nothing out of the ordinary at large apertures. See for yourself. Focus shift: I did not test for it, but from my walks it seems to be fine. CONCLUSION: The Carl Zeiss Contax G Planar 35mm f/2 is a gem. Coming from great heritage, it is now encased in an amazing conversion from FUNLEADER for our Leicas. The G35/2 is an honest lens, you won't find clinical sharpness here, but since you're reading this you're probably not looking for that, but for the resurrection of a highly underrated Carl Zeiss optic. The G35/2 renders the world gently with neutral colour rendition, pleasant bokeh and a sprinkle of pop. The tiny form has a great weight and feel and it simply looks incredible on a Leica. The black paint version is shiny and will brass while the "gold" version has lovely sharp black engravings (bit of a fingerprint magnet though). I honestly look at my camera sitting on my desk now and hear the whispers: "take me out and make photographs". Well done FUNLEADER and Mr. Ding, hat's off to you. Just like the original little piece of history it now protects and focuses, the FUNLEADER conversion will also be remembered as a gem amongst the connoisseurs. FUNLEADER Contax G35 to Leica M Conversions I hope you enjoy the test results, please let me know if you have any thoughts, suggestions and questions. Here is the Google Drive folder: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-mgIUEIScjebkdNY-GAouTlJE3FTCrDy I am leaving you with a bunch of samples, enjoy. PART 5 / 5 samples All the following samples are just snaps from my walks and I barely spent a minute on some of them in C1 f2 f5.6 f8 f2 f2 f2 f5.6 f5.6 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f4 (i think) f2 f2 Cheers!
  8. My main goal is shoot B&W (but not only) on digital cameras. Trying to choose beetwen a 1962 Summaron f/2.8 and a 1964 Summicron V1, both look in very nice condition, the price diference is 700€. From what I`ve read here, these would be my favourite options. Opinions welcome, considering the price diference too. Thanks
  9. Hej, my beloved M4-P seems to suffer from a light leak. See attached snapshots. It appears on one or two exposures per film. All Images are taken with M4-P, Summicron 35mm Asph., original hood and B+W high quality ND Filter. I experienced it only with the Cron so far, though it seems to be body problem. My questions are: Common issue? Where is the light leak? Back door? Shutter? How/Where to repair (Berlin)? Complicated? Expensive? Thank you very much in advance!! Peter
  10. Hey Folks, my first post here - yay! I noticed this horizontal bluish flare in the upper right corner with my Summicron 35/2 Asph. I shoot film (M4-P with original clip-on hood and B+W UV or ND Filter) so I can't do a thousand test shots. See the attached testshots. It appears in one or two images per roll. Didn't notice that with other lenses. Anybody experienced the same thing? Any suggestions? Thank you very much! P flickr: www.flickr.com/peertheer
  11. I have got great help here before, both when buying my 21mm and 90mm and now I am here again. And I have one 50mm Cron additional to that. Now I am thinking of a 35mm as well. Which one should I get? Or would you have put priority on another lens than the 35mm? I want to get a Leica lens and I have been looking on the new ones out there in the shops but maybe this time it would have been nice with a really old one. I am shooting with a M9.
  12. Im currently shooting the M (typ 240) with the 50mm Summilux ASPH and love it but im also wanting a Leica 35 to replace my voigtlander 35mm 2.5 I have been looking at the latest Summicron and Summilux 35's but unsure which to go with!.. any advice? (Id be using it for both my personal work; street shooting + portraits and also for commercially shooting weddings) Dan
  13. Guest

    Rocky Seascape

    Seascape by Børge Indergaard, on Flickr © Borge Indergaard 2013 Bo Photography Leica M Monochrom, Summilux 35 FLE, deep red filter
  14. A Stroll To The Office by michael_toye, on Flickr
  15. Hey everyone, I just recently got hold of this beautiful 35 summicron ASPH although i have a slight issue... The front ring where you clip the hood onto and screw additional filters into spins freely around, this doesn't not seem to be effecting any of the glass elements. I've read a few things of people saying they had the same problem and it's just something inside that needs tightening, screws or something? I'm normally pretty competent when it comes to fixing things but this is something i don't feel comfortable doing this as i don't want to risk it. Has anyone else had the same issue? Thanks. (i can include diagrams if need be)
  16. Ich bin nun seit einiger Zeit analog unterwegs, sowohl mit 35mm (M4-P) als auch im Mittelformat (Hasselblad, Mamiya7ii). Ich liebe es. Vor allem gegenüber digital. Ich sehe allerdings das Problem, dass im Bereich 35mm nahezu nirgends mehr ordentliche Scans (in Standardauflösung) zu bekommen sind, außer man investiert 5-15€ in einen HQ-Scan. Anders sieht es bei 120er Film aus. Da sind die Standardscans, beispielsweise bei pixelgrain, durchaus ordentlich. Aber auch da sehen meine 35mm-Scans aus wie einmal übern Fußboden gezogen und mit Handy abfotografiert. Klar, MF ist bezüglich Auflösung und Farbumfang auch eine andere Nummer, aber da muss doch Scan-technisch auch bei 35mm mehr drin sein. Ich sehe ja, was drin ist in den Negativen, wenn ich größere Abzüge herstellen lasse. Wer kann mir da einen heißen Tipp geben? Ich habe ausprobiert: pixelgrain (MF sauber, 35mm wie oben beschrieben) fotoimpex (Katatstrophe, Unschärfen, Tonwertabrisse, fröhliche Farbstiche) jet-foto (naja gerade noch okay, extrem überschärft, Kontraste übertrieben) foto-braune und andere kleinere Läden (Katastrophe, flau, farbverfälscht, Autokorrekturen auf Anschlag) Mir fehlt nur noch viertelvor8, kann von denen jemand Gutes berichten? Ich liebe die analoge Forographie, aber dieser niedrige und unbefriedigende Qualitätsstandard lässt mich immer wieder darüber nachdenken, zumindest teilweise wieder digital zu werden. Hab' ich aber eigentlich keine Lust zu. Ich danke sehr für Hinweise. Das gilt besonders für die Berliner hier. Achso: Selbst Scannen habe ich probiert, ist nicht mein Ding. p
  17. Anyone here have used the small Japanese lens MS Optical Super Triplet Perar 3.5/35 on a Leica M 240? I would love to get one but wonder if there are any problems on this new camera. Any advice is appreciated.
  18. The Gathering Tri-x 400, iso 800, ilfosol 3 developer, 1+9 for 9:10min, water stop bath for 10 sec, ilford rapid fixer 1+4 for 3 min., 5 min rinse. Camera: Leica M6 ttl, 35mm summicron @ F/8 Overall I'm pleased with the result of my first two rolls. If you are afraid of developing your own, don't be. I was very hesitant myself and I finally built the courage to at least try. It's pretty cool to see your work come to life through your own process and development. Give it a try!
  19. The price for both of these lenses is similar enough that I'm considering them both.. Actually, what I'm considering is more like this. CZ 35mm Biogon f/2 + CV Nokon 40 1.4 or Nokton 35mm 1.2 ASPH II I need a lens for indoors, when visiting friends, etc.. and I need to to be relatively fast, ~ f/1.4 or so. I'm a big fan of Zeiss, the 50 1.4 on my 5D Mk III was my most used lens. I've read fantastic things about the Biogon f/2 and comparing the sharpness of the Biogon @ f/2 and the Nokton 1.2 @ f/2, they're pretty evenly matched (according to what I read via Sean Reid). Obviously the Biogon isn't that fast, so I was thinking of pairing it with a Nokton 40 1.4 for those indoor uses, while the Biogon would be for mainly outdoor usage (I had also tested an 35mm Ultron 1.7 but it was a bit softer wide-open then I was hoping). I'm picking up an M9 + CZ Planar 50mm f/2 shortly (that decision is finally made!), so unfortunately I do not have a ton of money left over for 35mm.. $1500-$1600 is probably it, so unfortunately any fast Leica's are out of reach. Is there anyone out there who has used both the Nokton 35 1.2 II and the Biogon f/2 and decided to keep one or the other (or has any input on the two?) I realize they have different applications, and I'm a bit worried the Nokton 1.2 might be just a large and unwieldy lens that works great in lower-light situations, but end up being not so useful for an every-day, general 35mm lens. I think the Biogon + Nokton 40 1.4 might be a better combo, but it's almost $400-$500 more. Thoughts, comments, suggestions?
  20. Leica M 240 and 35 f/2 Summicron High Res: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7055/13300580983_6507e9de8e_o.jpg Nice Sunset on Maui high Res: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7059/13236334744_50b4ca8cbe_o.jpg Whale Watching High Res: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7399/13258043975_33cc8af35b_o.jpg High Res: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7266/13257973745_a7231ced52_o.jpg
  21. Dear Gurus, Recently I bought 35mm Summicron L Mount 8 Elements with Closest focusing distance engraved with 3'4" instead of 2'4" and Batch # is "16xxxxxx", it was made in Germany. It seems a lot of article only mentioning the outlook of Summicron M Mount 8-Elements, but didn't mention that of Summicron-L Mount. If you have this kind of Lens or info about that, please share with me your insight. Billion Thanks! Rgds, canica
  22. Hallo Gemeinde, ich habe mir das neue Lux bei meinem Lieblingshändler vorbestellt. Leica liefert wohl zum Ende des Monats aus. Gibt es equivalente Aussagen von anderen Händlern? Oder überhaupt... wer hat es bereits geordert und es vielleicht sogar schon in den Händen? Kaue schon auf den Nägeln vor Aufregung ;-) Roland
  23. I've been searching on the web, which are differences between lux and cron, here's my conclusion. Please correct if you see any errors. 35mm summicron pros Smaller than lux, compact Distortion, max.-0.8% 39mm filters, and those can fit inside the hood? "Cheaper" 35mm summicron cons Is there any? Slower than lux 35mm summilux (2010-) pros f/1.4 Slightly better MTF at f/5.6 3D like, when shooting close distances? Better contrast? Better saturation? Overall better "character" ? 35mm summilux (2010-) cons Bigger than cron, heavier Distortion, max. -1.5% Slightly worse falloff at all apertures Most 46mm filters won't fit under the hood Expensive Slight focus problem on middle-middle distances, central section will be slightly out of focus, when the rest of the frame is in focus 35mm lux & cron equals Sharpness, no real world difference Handling, don't see any noticeable difference, because the new lux hood won't block viewfinder anymore? Out of focus rendition (bokeh), equal when shooting at f/2.0 ?
  24. 1. Which ND filter(s) I could use on 35mm Summilux when screw-mount hood is attached, is there any limitations with this or could I use every 46mm filters out there (Hoya, B+H, Heliopan etc.) ? 2. Is there noticeable difference between these filter brands? Official Leica technical data says only this... Filter mount/Lens hood: Internal thread for screw-on filters size E46, non-rotating / Snap-on type (supplied)
  25. Hi all, Received my M9 recently, so I've been looking at ways to get all my old lenses 6bit coded. I've forgotten to change the lens selection almost every time I've changed lenses, it is getting quite anoying when it comes to post processing. First one I've coded is the CV 35mm Ultron ƒ/1.7. I got a chinese made (Kipon) screwmount adaptor from eBay with ready-milled slots for black dots to be drawn on. The only problem is that when mounted the lens is rotated about 30 degrees from where it should be on the body. Doesn't seen to affect the focus, but it's a little annoying. Is this a common problem? I'm thinking of getting the original Voigtlander adaptor milled, if that's possible somewhere here in the UK. The shots I've taken so far are here: Steve's M9 photos if anyone's interested. Cheers, Steve
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