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  1. Here is an interesting discussion on the 28mm vis-à-vis 35mm lens for documentary photography: Focal Length Feud: 28mm vs 35mm for Telling a story – by David Babaian and Simon King https://emulsive.org/articles/focal-length-feud-28-35 I have used both and at the end of the day it seems to me that either will work well, if you are willing to fine tune your shooting technique for each lens. Thoughts?
  2. Hello everyone, here's my review of the new Carl Zeiss Contax G Planar 35mm f/2 FUNLEADER conversion to Leica M. This is my first review here so I am not used to the technicalities of posting, please forgive me if I readjust things after I post. FUNLEADER Contax G35 to Leica M Conversions I have included the 7artisans 35mm f/1.4 M and the Voigtlander VM 40mm f/1.2, the only lenses in the 35mm zone I own. Disclaimers: 1. none of the lens makers / converters have been involved in these tests and I have personally purchased all 3 lenses, none of them have been provided. 2. the FUNLEADER link above contains an affiliate link with a code that will get you a 5% discount (used to be 15%, I hope they bring that back). If you purchase using the link above FUNLEADER says I will receive 10%. 3. all opinions expressed here are my own and, just like with anything in life (especially photography equipment!), you may have a different one. A few bullet points about the tests: - done on my Leica M-P typ 240 - done on a tripod with a 2 second timer to hopefully dampen most vibrations - no filters or hoods were used and lenses were extremely clean - captured at M-P's base ISO: 200 (with the exception of a few frames captured at 1.2 and 1.4 because 1/4000 was too slow to keep equal exposures so I set the ISO to PULL 100) - exposure was manual and the exposure time was adjusted accordingly with every aperture change (generally 2/3 stop) in order to hopefully maintain an even exposure between the samples - white balance was on AUTO - all focus was EXTREMELY CAREFULLY done using LIVE VIEW at f/2 for each lens, using both the focus peaking and my own eyes to make sure I get the best possible focus - focus was redone with every lens change - the 40mm was repositioned so that the main subject filled roughly the same size in the photos (as much as possible, the infinity tests obviously show the difference in focal length) - most tests were taken all all apertures but since this ended up requiring so much work I only included up to f/8, to be honest I don't think anything past that is relevant - all samples processed in Capture 1 PRO with the default output sharpening for screen (any image processor will apply some sort of sharpening from DNG to JPG) - I am sharing a Google Drive folder with all DNGs, JPGs, comparisons and misc images, all full size. Please check them out and use them for free, a credit would be nice if you end up posting them. PART 1 / 5 A morsel of history: if you're reading this you most likely know what this lens is, otherwise this info can be easily found online. The G35/2 is supposed to be the "lesser performer" of the Contax G suite, the internet is funny like that, some person deemed it once as not being as stellar as the G45/2 (which is whispered to be one of the best lenses in 35mm photography history) and the internet has taken that and transformed it into "not a good lens" kind of rumour. I am here to prove otherwise. Here's a G35 / G45 specs comparison: This 35 together with the Hologon 16mm are the only ones I do not own in G mount. I have shot all the other ones (21/2.8, 28/2.8, 45/2, 90/2.8) on my Contax G2 and adapted on my Sony A7R3 with a cheap Ulata adapter. They are sharp, very sharp wide open. And so light. Build quality: without further ado, I think FUNLEADER and Mr. Ding have done an amazing job here: the conversion is incredible, so tiny and lovely, with a great weight and feel. The focus action is nice and smooth and the little focus tab suits the lens. The black paint version is really beautiful, I have always been a black paint / lacquer fan, hence my M-P. This version will get patina with use (unless you're Lenny Kravitz and give it a good rub to look well used). The "gold" version has lovely sharp black engravings and a black focus tab. The focus tabs are really nice, placed at the perfect position where, when pointed straight downwards, the lenses focus at 4 feet / 1.2 meters. I also purchased a "gold" helicoid as I am planning to do a conversion myself. The "gold" helicoid feels like brass and it's a bit of a fingerprint magnet. The helicoid has "MR. DING" engraved on the mount. Pretty cool. I did a bit of digging and "Mr. Ding" is their master craftsman, maybe having been part of MGR Production. They are also behind the Bresson Viewfinder magnifier, which I happen to have on my M-P and love. I would love to find out more about Mr. Ding, if anyone has info please do share. The weight of the helicoid is 206g / 7.26oz and the whole lens is 266g / 9.38g The lens did have a plastic ring glued on the front, on top of the original Carl Zeiss from markings, but I removed it easily and left no marks. Sorry Mr. Ding, I prefer the original Carl Zeiss engravings. The original lens hood of the G35 / G45 fits nicely, but I have the champagne version and I personally don't think it works with either the black or the gold version. I might spray paint it with a glossy enamel. Honestly, it looks amazing on the M-P. It is a gem of a little lens and a great performer. Customer service: excellent, very responsive, I had quite a few questions for them and they replied very quickly. Packing: excellent, pragmatic, not fancy. Shipping: wowsers, the lens was in my hand in Vancouver BC Canada in 6 days, dayum! PART 2 / 5: colour, focal length, sharpness close and mid distance Two notes about colour and focal length: - colour - the G35/2 renders the most accurate and neutral colours, next is the VM 40/1.2, while the 7artisans 35/1.4 M renders quite warm - focal length - the G35/2 is a little wider than the 7artisans 35/1.4 M, I wonder what their real focal lengths are. Please do share if you happen to know. Sharpness: the G35/2 is very sharp wide open, it nearly matches the VM 40/1.2 at f2, actually honestly we are splitting hairs between the G35/2 and VM 40/1.2. Keep in mind that the VM starts at 1.2, so from a lens design pov it has a lot of room to be sharp at f2. It's quite a feat how consistent the G35/2 is all the way up to the widest apertures. The G35/2 is sharper than the 7artisans 35/1.4 M at every aperture. I was surprised as well. In all honestly, I really love the 7artisans lens, it has a really nice 3d pop and the built is absolutely amazing. Check out these 100%s of this starling at f2! I used live view, there's no way to nail that in the viewfinder patch, I also took a bunch of shots and these were the best 4, maybe out of 12 or so. 100% full images for context I have done a few test sessions but not included all here (so much to process and compare), so here are a few. Before every comparison chart you will see a half size G35/2 image at f2, for no reason really other than to show you what the whole scene looked like. Session 1 close: Session 1 mid distance: Session 4 close: Session 4 mid distance: Session 5 close: Session 6 close: PART 3 / 5: sharpness at infinity Session 3 infinity (center and corner): Session 7 infinity (center and corner): PART 4 / 5: bokeh and conclusion Session 1 mid distance: Session 2 mid distance: Session 6 close: Vignetting: yea a bit, but nothing out of the ordinary at large apertures. See for yourself. Focus shift: I did not test for it, but from my walks it seems to be fine. CONCLUSION: The Carl Zeiss Contax G Planar 35mm f/2 is a gem. Coming from great heritage, it is now encased in an amazing conversion from FUNLEADER for our Leicas. The G35/2 is an honest lens, you won't find clinical sharpness here, but since you're reading this you're probably not looking for that, but for the resurrection of a highly underrated Carl Zeiss optic. The G35/2 renders the world gently with neutral colour rendition, pleasant bokeh and a sprinkle of pop. The tiny form has a great weight and feel and it simply looks incredible on a Leica. The black paint version is shiny and will brass while the "gold" version has lovely sharp black engravings (bit of a fingerprint magnet though). I honestly look at my camera sitting on my desk now and hear the whispers: "take me out and make photographs". Well done FUNLEADER and Mr. Ding, hat's off to you. Just like the original little piece of history it now protects and focuses, the FUNLEADER conversion will also be remembered as a gem amongst the connoisseurs. FUNLEADER Contax G35 to Leica M Conversions I hope you enjoy the test results, please let me know if you have any thoughts, suggestions and questions. Here is the Google Drive folder: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-mgIUEIScjebkdNY-GAouTlJE3FTCrDy I am leaving you with a bunch of samples, enjoy. PART 5 / 5 samples All the following samples are just snaps from my walks and I barely spent a minute on some of them in C1 f2 f5.6 f8 f2 f2 f2 f5.6 f5.6 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f4 (i think) f2 f2 Cheers!
  3. My main goal is shoot B&W (but not only) on digital cameras. Trying to choose beetwen a 1962 Summaron f/2.8 and a 1964 Summicron V1, both look in very nice condition, the price diference is 700€. From what I`ve read here, these would be my favourite options. Opinions welcome, considering the price diference too. Thanks
  4. I heard a rumor in January that Leica was making a 35mm Noctilux lens. Was curious if anyone had heard anything more about this? Although I’m happy with my 35mm Summicron I think a Noctilux would be super cool to add to my bag. The size of it would be my only concern, as the bigger lenses aren’t appealing to me.
  5. Anyone tried it yet ? looks quite nice in some of the images online https://bluemooncameracodex.com/film-fridays/ffcinestillbwxx https://cinestillfilm.com/collections/bwxx-dou
  6. I got a Light Lens Lab v2LC 35mm f2 Summicron Copy last week Overall, the Lenses share similar tone to Leica Summicrion 35/2, with good enough micro contrast, sharp in a relative cheap price level. I like using color pic more than BW pic when using v2LC. For me, the main difference between Leica Summicron , which can provide a more rich image texture and 3D rendering. But Light lens Labs 35/2 did a good job at this price level. Light lens Labs 35mm F2, Leica M10D, TCP Vision3 500T film Preset Light lens Labs 35mm F2, Leica M10D, TCP K64 Film Preset Light lens Labs 35mm F2, Leica M10D, TCP Vision3 200T film Preset Light lens Labs 35mm F2, Leica M10D, TCP K64 Film Preset Light lens Labs 35mm F2, Leica M10D, LR10.2, Nik Sliver Efex2 For More PIC and reviews , Please read : Light Lens Lab v2LC Summicron 35mm f2
  7. Ich erlaube mir mal hier auf meinen Blog zu verweisen wo ich einen kleinen Bericht zu dem Zeiss Distagon 35mm f1.4 zm veröffentlicht habe. Einfach den link hier anklicken: https://www.qimago.de/das-zeiss-distagon-35mm-f1-4-fuer-leica-m/ Da sind dann solche Bilder und noch ein paar mehr plus eben Gedanken zu dem Glas zu sehen.
  8. hi all! I have 35 and 75, both lux. but some times I would like to get picture quality as at my 35 lux. 75 bit different. looking at 90/2.8, 90/2, 90/2AA... I shoot landscapes, portraits. not sure but maybe 180/2.8 or 180/2.8 APO as I also wanted something longer than short tele. use these at typ 240 and Sony a7II. any ideas?
  9. Some pictures from the F1 weekend in Bahrain.
  10. Hi all, I recently purchased an M3 with a goggled 35mm f/3.5 Summaron. Unlike many other Summarons I've been able to find online, however, the paint job on the goggles is a glossy black paint, rather than the crackled paint that's ubiquitous online. I've been told this is a relatively uncommon version of this lens - the question is, how uncommon? Is this something that is collectible or significantly adds to the lens value? I haven't been able to find any copies of the glossy paint version that have sold online, so I would love your perspectives on whether this is a collector's item of any sort, or if it's something I shouldn't worry about using/possibly getting dinged up in the process. I've attached a photo below.
  11. Hello all, I recently purchased an M3 with a goggled 35mm f/3.5 Summaron. Unlike many other Summarons I've been able to find online, however, the paint job on the goggles is a glossy black paint, rather than the crackled paint that's ubiquitous online. I've been told this is a relatively uncommon version of this lens - the question is, how uncommon? Is this something that adds to the value of the lens significantly/is it collectible? I haven't been able to find any copies of the glossy paint version that have sold recently, so I would love your perspectives on whether this is a collector's item of any sort, or if it's something I shouldn't worry about using/possibly getting dinged up in the process. If you have any thoughts on potential value, I would welcome those as well. Here's an image of the lens in question. Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
  12. Armed with my recently acquired R5, 35mm Elmarit-R III and a roll of Neopan I took a stroll around our local Country Park. As usual with b&w film, I had a yellow filter (in the case a B+W medium yellow) fitted. Bright sun out of frame fairly high to the left. The lens hood was extended but judging by this result, it is not long enough!
  13. Hi, This is a question about why is the R 35mm Summilux priced quite high on the second hand markets? The second hand prices for R lenses is of course regulated by supply and demand and tend to be lower than their M counterparts. There are the rare lenses of which few were made (I think 35-70/2.8) so these go for many thousands above original price. Others have a unique character or performance (80 and ROM 50 Summiluxes) and were always high in price. The 35mm Summilux, when I bought it as my first lens to replace my hated 28-70 was cheap and was in the hundreds of pounds (certainly far less in relation to the ROM 50 Summilux). Although the reviews were that it was a mediocre lens, I loved it. Even more on the DMR where it was more equivalent to my favourite 50mm view. I see these now on sale for very high prices equivalent to the ROM 50mm, why is that? I am not interested in selling mine though. From whom is the demand for this lens?
  14. I already have a 21 CV, 35 Cron ASPH, 50 Cron, 85 Zeiss, 135 Elmar. However I use the 35mm almost all the time. I like the versatility of a 35mm and I hate changing lenses while on the field. Lately, I enjoyed shooting landscape, and I'm thinking of getting a wider lens than 35mm. Main question: Is it practical to have a 28mm despite already having a 35mm? Subquestion: Given my lens line up, I'm considering the 28mm Elmarit ASPH 2.8 or should I get the CV 15mm heliar III?
  15. Playa de Ballota, Asturias, at sunrise Leica S, Summarit-S 35mm, 8 seconds @ f/16. Thanks for viewing, best Vieri
  16. Hi all, As the title says, has anyone used a 35mm lens on an IIIG without a separate viewfinder? Is it possible? I have read in two places vague comments about it being possible using the edges of the cameras VF without needing a dedicated 35mm VF. Both times, there were no responses to those specific comments so... Has anyone tried it?
  17. Zabriskie Point is one of Death Valley's most famous spots; here's Manley Beacon's ridge just after sunrise under a stormy sky. With the Leica M-P (Typ 240) and the 35mm Summilux FLE. Best, Vieri
  18. Hey guys! I spent 6 weeks in NYC basically just taking pictures ... mostly street, but also Landscape and People ... I mostly used my M9 and 35mm Summilux ASPH (pre FLE) wide open and sometimes my S (006) and 70mm Summarit. If I don't comment which combo I used, it'll be the M9 35Lux combo... Feel free to comment and critique I'm not a pro and I just do stuff the way I like it .. so not everything is perfect... Here are a couple of shots from the End of July .. some of the best sunsets I have ever seen.
  19. Hello my fellow Leica shooters..... I am looking for advice from the peanut gallery on a lens purchase. In short, I am going to be spending three weeks traveling Thailand soon, and need to travel light, so I'll be carrying my M240 during the trip. At one point in the trip, I will also be taking a 4 day kayak trip and will be doing a bit of shooting from the kayak. I have two options: 1) Buy a used version of the 28-35-50 Tri-Elmer MATE lens - which I've never used before. I've read extensively about it, but dont have hands-on with the lens. 2) Take my existing 50mm Summicron and 21mm lenses and buy a 35mm Summicron and carry a set of three lenses. Each of these options has pros and cons - the only neutral is the price, with the MATE being just a tad cheaper. Obviously option #1 means I don't have to deal with lens changes, but I'm limited to f/4 for nighttime and low-light shooting. Anyone been to Thailand have experience with the night scenes in cities like Bangkok - will I be handicapped with an f/4 lens? Option 2 has the benefit of being f/2 lenses and each lens is smaller than the MATE, but I'd have to conduct lens changes more often. I welcome any thoughts - I realize this is a personal opinion and decision, but am curious what you'd do in the situation? Thanks Kristen
  20. After digitizing for quite a while all my 35 mm negatives via photographing them with 1:1 macro lens, tripod, and LED light table, I decided now to get the plustek 8200i Ai scanner with SilverFast 8 software. Main reason for it was correct color calibration of color negatives. To do the color calibration manually in PS or LR is not always easy. Posting here to hear from others who use a plustek scanner with SilverFast software. So far I am very impressed by the scanner and the software. I updated to the SilverFast 8.8 version which has a lot of options - tricky part is to figure out what is mainly needed for a good color calibration of a scan and what is more optional. I prefer to use the internal settings for films to choose from - the color calibration of the scanned color negative appears fairly correct afterwards that only minimal adjustment is needed. I also like the infrared dust scan and automatic subtraction from the photo - it works really well and leaves other image parts intact. One thing I struggle with is the archive mode of the negative - the only option to save the file in RAW as DNG. I didn't find yet a way to get an automated color calibration after the negative was scanned with the archive mode. I would prefer to have the scan saved as DNG but would like to have it processed like it is offered for all the other image file modes as JPG, TIFF etc. Is there a way to do this easily? What is your best / most proficient workflow using plustek scanners and this software? Did you encounter any drawbacks?
  21. I shot a little photo series while in Vietnam this summer All Kodak Portra 160/400, Leica M6, 35mm Summicron Full series here: http://www.philippwortmann.com/lounging-in-viet-nam Teaser:
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