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nice to know they're developing new film cameras

In a recent interview in Austrian Der Standard Peter Karbe was asked which camera and lens would be his preferred choice. The answer was "not an easy one", but it would be M11 and APO-Summicron 35. "STANDARD: One last question: If you had to choose a combo, what would be your camera and your lens of choice? Karbe: The M11 and APO-Summicron 35mm. But that's one of those questions... which of your children do you like best? If I had to choose, I would use this combination." Here is the link to the full (unlocked) Peter Karbe Der Standard interview (in German) by Mickey Manakas, where he speaks about the compromise in building the Noctilux f/0.95 and its evident flaws, the "Leica Look" myth, his views on smartphone photography, his pride in personally calculating the optical formula for Summilux 50 ASPH and many other cool topics: https://www.derstandard.at/story/2000144541043/leitender-optikexperte-bei-leica-wir-waren-vorreiter-bei-der-digitalisierung

Hat jemand schon das Voigtlander NOKTON Vintage Line 35mm f/1.5 Aspherical VM und kann hier über seine Erfahrungen berichten?

https://www.tumblr.com/tokyo-camera-style/735642699701600256/totem-pole-photo-gallery-shinjuku-a-custom Repaint by Shueido. (Photo: Screenshot)

I processed the image in order give the mood of autumn popping in.

Motivations After purely shooting on digital for 5 months, I shift a bit back to film because my dad has the passion to develop and scan film after his retirement (He now develops C41, ECN-2 and E-6!). Also I bought a CLA’d silver M4 recently and now I enjoy it more than my black M10-P. I mainly use the 35mm or 40mm focal lengths. I have a LLL 35/2 8E replica and the Minolta 40/2. Both of them are excellent on digital and film. As I mainly shoot with digital before, the F2 is enough to cover my needs in indoor and streets at night. Now with film, I’d like to push 5207 or 5219 to 800 to maintain my ability to do street photography in city night. I am confident to zone focus at F2.8 now but at night even at F2 I have to use slower shutter speeds than 1/125, which is hard to freeze the motions. I am considering to try a F1.4 lens. My thoughts about the F1.4 35mm lenses… Summilux-es are too much for my wallet to afford currently. I know the FLE and ASPH luxes are great lenses in IQ but they are also much bulkier than the F2-crons IMO. The compactness is an important consideration for me. The Nokton 35/1.4 is a famous lens—for its budget friendliness and the debate over its IQ and focus shift issues, I guess? And its focus shift make it a less proper lens on the digital sensor. But if I pair it with my M4 it would be fine right? The next doubt is the build quality of this lens. I’m afraid buying a brand new one and find it does not focus properly…and I am totally fine with a pre-owned one if it has been proven to have no issues about focusing.

My main goal is shoot B&W (but not only) on digital cameras. Trying to choose beetwen a 1962 Summaron f/2.8 and a 1964 Summicron V1, both look in very nice condition, the price diference is 700€. From what I`ve read here, these would be my favourite options. Opinions welcome, considering the price diference too. Thanks

Anyone tried it yet ? looks quite nice in some of the images online https://bluemooncameracodex.com/film-fridays/ffcinestillbwxx https://cinestillfilm.com/collections/bwxx-dou

M8 Monochrom, Voigtlander 35mm 1.4 @ 1/125 at f5.7 ISO 400 at the Dunkin on the corner of 97th and Madison in Manhattan's Upper East Side.

Hallo Leute, nachdem ich mir manchmal denke, das man nur einmal lebt, muss jetzt eine M240er her. Aus meiner Sicht gerade preislich ein guter Einstieg in das M System. Gesagt getan. Meine Traumlinse, das Leica Summilux-M 24mm 1.4 ASPH ist mir aber einfach zu teuer - und zu schwer. Ich wusste, wenn es mal eine M wird, dann ist das Voigtländer Classic Collection Nokton 35mm 1.4 auf jeden Fall meine engere Wahl. Meine Frage: Auf was sollte man achten? Es gibt auch SC und MC, und warum gibt es diese kaum gebraucht, oder bin ich blind? Danke schon mal. Euch allen schon mal eine gute Zeit. Möge das Jahr 2021 besser werden als dieses!

Hello everyone, here's my review of the new Carl Zeiss Contax G Planar 35mm f/2 FUNLEADER conversion to Leica M. This is my first review here so I am not used to the technicalities of posting, please forgive me if I readjust things after I post. FUNLEADER Contax G35 to Leica M Conversions I have included the 7artisans 35mm f/1.4 M and the Voigtlander VM 40mm f/1.2, the only lenses in the 35mm zone I own. Disclaimers: 1. none of the lens makers / converters have been involved in these tests and I have personally purchased all 3 lenses, none of them have been provided. 2. the FUNLEADER link above contains an affiliate link with a code that will get you a 5% discount (used to be 15%, I hope they bring that back). If you purchase using the link above FUNLEADER says I will receive 10%. 3. all opinions expressed here are my own and, just like with anything in life (especially photography equipment!), you may have a different one. A few bullet points about the tests: - done on my Leica M-P typ 240 - done on a tripod with a 2 second timer to hopefully dampen most vibrations - no filters or hoods were used and lenses were extremely clean - captured at M-P's base ISO: 200 (with the exception of a few frames captured at 1.2 and 1.4 because 1/4000 was too slow to keep equal exposures so I set the ISO to PULL 100) - exposure was manual and the exposure time was adjusted accordingly with every aperture change (generally 2/3 stop) in order to hopefully maintain an even exposure between the samples - white balance was on AUTO - all focus was EXTREMELY CAREFULLY done using LIVE VIEW at f/2 for each lens, using both the focus peaking and my own eyes to make sure I get the best possible focus - focus was redone with every lens change - the 40mm was repositioned so that the main subject filled roughly the same size in the photos (as much as possible, the infinity tests obviously show the difference in focal length) - most tests were taken all all apertures but since this ended up requiring so much work I only included up to f/8, to be honest I don't think anything past that is relevant - all samples processed in Capture 1 PRO with the default output sharpening for screen (any image processor will apply some sort of sharpening from DNG to JPG) - I am sharing a Google Drive folder with all DNGs, JPGs, comparisons and misc images, all full size. Please check them out and use them for free, a credit would be nice if you end up posting them. PART 1 / 5 A morsel of history: if you're reading this you most likely know what this lens is, otherwise this info can be easily found online. The G35/2 is supposed to be the "lesser performer" of the Contax G suite, the internet is funny like that, some person deemed it once as not being as stellar as the G45/2 (which is whispered to be one of the best lenses in 35mm photography history) and the internet has taken that and transformed it into "not a good lens" kind of rumour. I am here to prove otherwise. Here's a G35 / G45 specs comparison: This 35 together with the Hologon 16mm are the only ones I do not own in G mount. I have shot all the other ones (21/2.8, 28/2.8, 45/2, 90/2.8) on my Contax G2 and adapted on my Sony A7R3 with a cheap Ulata adapter. They are sharp, very sharp wide open. And so light. Build quality: without further ado, I think FUNLEADER and Mr. Ding have done an amazing job here: the conversion is incredible, so tiny and lovely, with a great weight and feel. The focus action is nice and smooth and the little focus tab suits the lens. The black paint version is really beautiful, I have always been a black paint / lacquer fan, hence my M-P. This version will get patina with use (unless you're Lenny Kravitz and give it a good rub to look well used). The "gold" version has lovely sharp black engravings and a black focus tab. The focus tabs are really nice, placed at the perfect position where, when pointed straight downwards, the lenses focus at 4 feet / 1.2 meters. I also purchased a "gold" helicoid as I am planning to do a conversion myself. The "gold" helicoid feels like brass and it's a bit of a fingerprint magnet. The helicoid has "MR. DING" engraved on the mount. Pretty cool. I did a bit of digging and "Mr. Ding" is their master craftsman, maybe having been part of MGR Production. They are also behind the Bresson Viewfinder magnifier, which I happen to have on my M-P and love. I would love to find out more about Mr. Ding, if anyone has info please do share. The weight of the helicoid is 206g / 7.26oz and the whole lens is 266g / 9.38g The lens did have a plastic ring glued on the front, on top of the original Carl Zeiss from markings, but I removed it easily and left no marks. Sorry Mr. Ding, I prefer the original Carl Zeiss engravings. The original lens hood of the G35 / G45 fits nicely, but I have the champagne version and I personally don't think it works with either the black or the gold version. I might spray paint it with a glossy enamel. Honestly, it looks amazing on the M-P. It is a gem of a little lens and a great performer. Customer service: excellent, very responsive, I had quite a few questions for them and they replied very quickly. Packing: excellent, pragmatic, not fancy. Shipping: wowsers, the lens was in my hand in Vancouver BC Canada in 6 days, dayum! PART 2 / 5: colour, focal length, sharpness close and mid distance Two notes about colour and focal length: - colour - the G35/2 renders the most accurate and neutral colours, next is the VM 40/1.2, while the 7artisans 35/1.4 M renders quite warm - focal length - the G35/2 is a little wider than the 7artisans 35/1.4 M, I wonder what their real focal lengths are. Please do share if you happen to know. Sharpness: the G35/2 is very sharp wide open, it nearly matches the VM 40/1.2 at f2, actually honestly we are splitting hairs between the G35/2 and VM 40/1.2. Keep in mind that the VM starts at 1.2, so from a lens design pov it has a lot of room to be sharp at f2. It's quite a feat how consistent the G35/2 is all the way up to the widest apertures. The G35/2 is sharper than the 7artisans 35/1.4 M at every aperture. I was surprised as well. In all honestly, I really love the 7artisans lens, it has a really nice 3d pop and the built is absolutely amazing. Check out these 100%s of this starling at f2! I used live view, there's no way to nail that in the viewfinder patch, I also took a bunch of shots and these were the best 4, maybe out of 12 or so. 100% full images for context I have done a few test sessions but not included all here (so much to process and compare), so here are a few. Before every comparison chart you will see a half size G35/2 image at f2, for no reason really other than to show you what the whole scene looked like. Session 1 close: Session 1 mid distance: Session 4 close: Session 4 mid distance: Session 5 close: Session 6 close: PART 3 / 5: sharpness at infinity Session 3 infinity (center and corner): Session 7 infinity (center and corner): PART 4 / 5: bokeh and conclusion Session 1 mid distance: Session 2 mid distance: Session 6 close: Vignetting: yea a bit, but nothing out of the ordinary at large apertures. See for yourself. Focus shift: I did not test for it, but from my walks it seems to be fine. CONCLUSION: The Carl Zeiss Contax G Planar 35mm f/2 is a gem. Coming from great heritage, it is now encased in an amazing conversion from FUNLEADER for our Leicas. The G35/2 is an honest lens, you won't find clinical sharpness here, but since you're reading this you're probably not looking for that, but for the resurrection of a highly underrated Carl Zeiss optic. The G35/2 renders the world gently with neutral colour rendition, pleasant bokeh and a sprinkle of pop. The tiny form has a great weight and feel and it simply looks incredible on a Leica. The black paint version is shiny and will brass while the "gold" version has lovely sharp black engravings (bit of a fingerprint magnet though). I honestly look at my camera sitting on my desk now and hear the whispers: "take me out and make photographs". Well done FUNLEADER and Mr. Ding, hat's off to you. Just like the original little piece of history it now protects and focuses, the FUNLEADER conversion will also be remembered as a gem amongst the connoisseurs. FUNLEADER Contax G35 to Leica M Conversions I hope you enjoy the test results, please let me know if you have any thoughts, suggestions and questions. Here is the Google Drive folder: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-mgIUEIScjebkdNY-GAouTlJE3FTCrDy I am leaving you with a bunch of samples, enjoy. PART 5 / 5 samples All the following samples are just snaps from my walks and I barely spent a minute on some of them in C1 f2 f5.6 f8 f2 f2 f2 f5.6 f5.6 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f2 f4 (i think) f2 f2 Cheers!

Hallo zusammen! Ich habe mir das Summicron 35 Asph. Gekauft und besitze das 35 mm Voigtländer Nokton. In meiner Vorstellung benutze ich das Voigtländer weiter, wenn es bewusst um das unperfekte geht, die Sonne im Gegenlicht, nicht ganz scharf etc. .. hat jemand beide Objektive und kann mir sagen, ob eines von beiden eher ein Schubladendasein fristet? Oder allgemein die Erfahrung über die Nutzung beider Objektive parallel. liebe Grüße und danke!

here are the thoughts of two photographers on 28mm vs. 35mm for documentary photography. There is nothing "wrong" with the 35mm; for some reason, the 28mm focal length produces images that are more three dimensional looking to my eye. For that reason, I am drawn to the 28mm focal length. I think of my 28mm Elmarit as my documentary lens and my 35mm Summicron as my all-arounder. https://emulsive.org/articles/sharing-my-contact-sheets-india-snapshots-all-xa-all-colour?utm_source=EMULSIVE+Daily+and+Weekly+Newsletters&utm_campaign=e7c973b9ea-RSS_DAILY_EMAIL_CAMPAIGN&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_c4b55b017a-e7c973b9ea-174834361

However, whereas the Canon F-1 Olive Drab retired long ago, the new Leica Reporter will be used...

Something I consider to be a glaring omission from Leica's current M-lens line-up is a light, compact, 35mm lens. Or am I missing something? F2.8 would be quite adequate considering the high ISOs available on the M10. The target market would be those for whom minimum size and weight is a major actor, plus those seeking a lower cost entry into the world of Leica M. As it is, Voigtlander offer just such a lens, though the reviews are mixed. I assume such a lens would be called an Elmarit, as the code seems to be Elmar -f4.0 Elmarit f2.8 -chron f2.0 -lux f1.4 or faster. Any comments as to when such a beast might become available, or should I just go and buy the Voigtlander?

Hi there, I purchased the Voigtlander 35mm f2 Ultron about 6 months ago at my local Leica store. I have a problem regarding the focus ring; it's a bit loose in a way where I can move the focus ring horizontally and vertically (about a mm or so). Its not a big movement or anything but I can feel the loose when I'm trying to accurately focus an image. I've never seen anyone mentioning this problem from this lens., or any Voigtlander lens in this matter. I wonder if any user had such an issue or if I'm getting crazy about small stuff. Thanks in advance for the answers, Renaud

Here is an interesting discussion on the 28mm vis-à-vis 35mm lens for documentary photography: Focal Length Feud: 28mm vs 35mm for Telling a story – by David Babaian and Simon King https://emulsive.org/articles/focal-length-feud-28-35 I have used both and at the end of the day it seems to me that either will work well, if you are willing to fine tune your shooting technique for each lens. Thoughts?

Got my first ever Leica M body last year. It's a M2. It came bundled with a Summicron 50mm F2 Collapsible. I'm really enjoying this combo, but I'm a 35mm shooter. I've found a Summaron 35mm 3.5 for sale in my country, for a decent price. It's serial number is the following: 1176436. However, I know that users have trouble defining their lens models, because they were produced in a large numbers. I've checked this one's number on a lot of different sources and foruns, but I failed on identifying it. The weird part is that checking through this website: https://reddotcamera.net/leica/serial-number-tool/ and in this page: https://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-wiki.en/index.php/Summaron_f%3D_3.5_cm_1:3.5 The information I have is that this lens is identified as a Summicron 50mm f/2, build in the year 1954 and a Summicron 5 cm 1:2 (M), respectively. Why is that? Has anyone here ever seen one of these? I wanted this to be the M2 version (to activate the 35mm framelines) but I have no clue what this all means. Any guesses are welcome. Thanks!

I got a Light Lens Lab v2LC 35mm f2 Summicron Copy last week Overall, the Lenses share similar tone to Leica Summicrion 35/2, with good enough micro contrast, sharp in a relative cheap price level. I like using color pic more than BW pic when using v2LC. For me, the main difference between Leica Summicron , which can provide a more rich image texture and 3D rendering. But Light lens Labs 35/2 did a good job at this price level. Light lens Labs 35mm F2, Leica M10D, TCP Vision3 500T film Preset Light lens Labs 35mm F2, Leica M10D, TCP K64 Film Preset Light lens Labs 35mm F2, Leica M10D, TCP Vision3 200T film Preset Light lens Labs 35mm F2, Leica M10D, TCP K64 Film Preset Light lens Labs 35mm F2, Leica M10D, LR10.2, Nik Sliver Efex2 For More PIC and reviews , Please read : Light Lens Lab v2LC Summicron 35mm f2

Hey everyone, I wanted to create a bit of a fun competition. Given the scary times we are all living in, Halloween this year will be spent in our homes and probably there wont be any trick or treaters. That is why its a perfect opportunity to share your “scariest” shots. These can be shots of scary subjects, scary edits or simply creepy shots you have taken. Rules: Must be taken with 28-35-50-75-90mm lens One post per person (if you are going to post a second one please specify on the second post that it is indeed a second post) All type of photography is allowed Winners will be picked by the amount of likes on individual posts (I’m open to suggestions If you have any) Good competition to everyone cant wait to see your best shots.

Hi All, I am considering buying a Zeiss 35mm lens for my M6 with 0.85 viewfinder. I can not really decide between the 2.8 and the 2.0 version. I would like to have the extra stop of light – but not sure if this would block the view- or rangefinder window. The little bit more money isn’t the problem – has anyone an Idea of the blockage with and without lens hood ? Thanks for thoughts and advice Thomas

Hello everyone. I'm so happy 🙂 Finally, my 🙌 TT Artisan 35/1.4 has arrived on Friday. And I love it. Everything started in this thread I made, asking for recommendations for a new fast partner for my ZM 35/2.8 Biogon. Here a micro resume: my decision a few weeks ago was to get a brand new CV 35/1.2 V3 ... But because of the current pandemic situation, I decided not to travel. Shopping online was not the case because the import taxes are super high in Mexico, so the best option was to wait. Eventually, I figured out how to buy a TT lens on Amazon Prime Mexico for the same BH price ($450usd) plus $38usd for shipping and taxes wow. Not sure why it happened in this way, but it did. The lens arrived with a slight back-focus issue, but I already calibrated with the help and expertise of a kind member with the screwdriver included in the box. It works fully 100% now. I can't believe how a cheap Chinese lens can make me so happy. To be honest with you, I was expecting, somehow, a worst lens. But this was a big happy surprise. That's why I'm writing this post. Once I am lucky enough to try and/or own a 35 Summicron or Summilux (FLE or not), I will tell you the differences and what I like about them. I don't have much experience yet, and I'm not a pixel peeper. But for $450 only, a 35/1.4 that works perfectly with my M10? What I need more? For me, it has been a real bargain: I can feel now what it looks like to shoot w/ a focus tab; there is a before and after lol. I had for a few weeks a 28 Elmarit, but I really was a newbie, and I didn't appreciate the focus tab enough. Much better now when working with zone system, oh yeah! The lens hood is beautiful, small enough to cover the glass but not intrusive. Plus, the small window in the up-left corner it's very helpful for framing. The viewfinder blockage is very acceptable for me; it has never been a problem. I don't see it with the right eye (inside the OVF). I see it with the left eye. 😉😜 Focus is very smooth, and it has a perfect throw. Aesthetics is beautiful, ergonomic is super fine. Lens cap ... 🙌 IQ ... What can I say? You tell me. I don't do tests, detailed reviews with comparisons. I also don't know how to do that. But I do love very much to shoot. And to shoot with the TT 35/1.4 is a joy. The only cons I founded so far are weight. I don't know nobody so masochist that I prefer to carry more weight just for the sake of it. 100 or 200gr less can make the difference, I know. But If I'm happy with absolutely the rest, I can live with that. I didn't have time to shoot with the lens properly; I mean assignment, work or calm street photography, etc. I just took photos at home at my dog, of course 🙂 And on the way to a work meeting, shooting with zone focusing from the window of my car. Once I will use it in different/demanding conditions, I'll let you know if I find some issues or concerns. So far, here a few samples at f/1.4.

hi all! I have 35 and 75, both lux. but some times I would like to get picture quality as at my 35 lux. 75 bit different. looking at 90/2.8, 90/2, 90/2AA... I shoot landscapes, portraits. not sure but maybe 180/2.8 or 180/2.8 APO as I also wanted something longer than short tele. use these at typ 240 and Sony a7II. any ideas?