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Hello everyone! I'm new to the leica film cameras but I came up a rather very nice iiif in great condition which comes with a summarit 50mm f1.5 going for about $550. This sounded like a pretty good deal to me, however, upon closer inspection the lens seemed to have a lot of haze (not sure about fungus) as when I performed the light test there were specks everywhere. It seemed to be internal and in the second glass?? Not sure how to fix it or if I even can, also the focus ring was pretty stiff (but that isn't a deal breaker or anything). Like I said, the body of the camera was in very good condition however the lens is my biggest concern. As most of you are owners/experts and such please help me out and let me know if this is a good deal or not. Thanks, Ashley

Anyone have a ballpark estimate/experience with approximate CLA cost for hazy 180mm f/3.4 APO-Telyt? There are many of these at bargain prices on eBay with haze or fungus.

Hello everyone. I just purchased my first Leica yesterday. The body is a IIIg from 1957 and the lens is a 50mm Summicron f/2 from 1956. I paid $300 for the lens. However, upon looking at the lens (front and rear glass elements) with a flashlight in the dark, I noticed there was a little haze coming from inside the glass. I'd like to get this lens cleaned. Anyone have a ballpark figure on how much a cleaning like this will cost?

Hello, I'm new to this forum and I'm seeking some experienced advice. I recently purchased a Leitz Summaron 35 f3.5 with goggles from eBay at a very reasonable price - for a reason - the rear element has considerable haze/fog that is noticeable on every image. I've been reading on the web that it is possible to clean the glass and even to DIY it: Removing Haze from Leitz 35mm F/3.5 Summaron Lens - DJCPHOTO.COM Now, I've tried going ahead with the instructions provided by the link above but I'm finding it impossible to remove the rear lens retaining ring. In addition, I have unscrewed the focusing helicoid and I think I have not been able to put it back together correctly. Apart from sending my lens to more competent hands, does anyone have other advice or guidelines for cleaning the lenses (and putting the focusing helicoid back correctly...) myself? Thanks for your time

I have a non-collapsible 50mm Summicron M lens that I recently discovered had a case of the white haze. The haze seems to be in the shape of a ring corresponding to closing down the lens to f2.8, with the cloudiness filling to the edges. This lens already had a liberal amount of 'cleaning marks' on the front element, but I liked the way it rendered. It was a little soft, but in a way that was almost flattering when shooting people. I had checked this lens ~9 months ago and don't remember seeing anything. There also seems to be the beginnings of haze on other elements inside the lens. I haven't done any tests yet, and I really am not equipped to do that kind of stuff. So some questions: How fast can this happen? Why did the haze form the way that it did? Can it be stopped, once it's started? Can it be fixed? Would the haze likely not affect images if I stopped down 2.8 or more? Is there group therapy available for people who are watching a lens they love die? Any help is appreciated. @ f2 (below) @ f2.8 (below)

Hi I have recently bought two Leica M6 cameras with various problems, and are wondering which one to keep. The best looking one is a Wetzlar M6 and has the following problems: - The rangefinder patch flares significantly more than the other M6. This seems to be caused by haze on the inside of the rangefinder window. My leica CL has less flare than both. - After the shutter trips, I am able to see a little bit of the seam on the left hand side of the shutter looking inside of the camera from behind. It is somewhat visible when looking straight on and compared to the other M6 it is a bit more visible in general. Might be a problem according to https://www.cameraquest.com/leicamchecklist.htm -Winding the shutter also makes a rubbing sound which the other M6 does not. - The other M6 also has smoother winding lever and more dampened shutter button than the Wetzlar M6. The other M6 is a big logo version made in the Sloms factory - The light meter on this one is sometimes off by more than 4 stops, even with a new battery. Other times it can be correct, but the arrows don't light up like the Wetzlar M6. I am never able to get the two arrows to light up evenly. One of the arrows is always stronger than the other. This means that the light meter goes from for example totally overexposed (only one arrow) -> a bit overexposed( one arrow brighter than the other) -> a bit underexposed (the other arrow brighter than the other) -> Totally underexposed (only one arrow). According to the manual I am missing the double arrows correct exposure light. - The white circle on the wound shutter curtain is also a bit faded and not evenly white from right to left, compared to the Wetzlar M6. - The shutter button on the big logo M6 is also a bit sticky after pressing or half pressing the shutter, making the light meter stay on indefinitely. - The 2nd shutter curtain on the big logo M6 also starts to creep in a little bit before the Wetzlar M6 when using the 1 second shutter speed. I hope you can help me decide. If both needs repair or CLA which will be the simplest and least expensive to repair? Thank you for taking the time to read through all this.

Hi all, I have the worst luck buying Leica gear. Just purchased my 2nd 50 Cron IV on eBay. The seller mentioned haze, and I asked a lot of questions about it, but he really described it as no big deal. Got it today and found a pretty harsh ring of haze (or?) when light is pushed through. Looks decent otherwise, but I paid a competitive price ($950 USD). I really don’t want to go through another eBay return—the seller only mentioned in a DM, where I was asking specific questions about the lens, that he would offer to return for me if I wasn’t happy. I’m a shooter, don’t mind imperfections, but I do like to have nice gear. Was thinking of sending out for a CLA and forget about it. Obviously another $100 that I don’t want to spend, but ugh. what do you guys think? edit: also the small set screws on the aperture ring show a small amount of rust. I was wondering if that might be a sign of what contributed to the optical issue, poor storage perhaps?