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  1. Hi all. So looks like there is no end to my bad luck having to send lenses to Leica for repair or adjustment. This time my Super-Elmar-M 21mm has developed a wobble in front part of the lens. I guess I am not the only one who had this issue with the Super-Elmar-M in the past. But I would need some advice. How long usually fixing wobble issues has taken at Wetzlar? I found this video: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZL3WojYoXQ). Is same kind of procedure possible to do by yourself for the SEM 21? I would just hate to wait again 3-4 months for a lens repair, because it is my favourite lens and I use it almost every week... Is it covered by warranty? Lens was bought less than 2 years ago. If you have experience on having to pay for fixing wobble issues how much has it usually cost? I know I should give them (Leica Service) a call go get answers for my questions. But I still would like to know what I am dealing with. Thank you very much for answers
  2. Hello there, I have decided to start a topic on jammed shutter issue of Leica film cameras. I experienced this issue while taking photos at the Shard. My camera had been loaded with Adox CMS 20 II, the microfilm had the highest resolving power. The first fifteen frames were beautiful to enjoy the view. Yet after 16th frame, the camera was jammed. Since I tried to force its advance lever, it was totally broken. One wondering what was happened may look at the result here. I sent my camera to Wetzlar via Leica Store Mayfair. After eight weeks, it came back to London in a repaired condition under warranty. Recently, I have heard similar experiences to mine. Some of them is not related to choose Adox's films, since they have occurred while using Ilford's HP5+, and so on. In order to build a guide for one who could experience the same, may you share your experiences on jammed shutter, or advance lever stuck?
  3. Hi all, I am still quite new to repairing cameras and lenses but so far I have a pretty good track record for fixing them. I have mainly repaired Canon rangefinders and some Canon SLRs. I recently picked up a R4 which has the problem of a possible jammed shutter. Basically the shutter does not fire when the shutter button is depressed. I have checked both magnets under the battery compartment and could not see any dirt that was causing a weak connection. I have also compared the cams and gears to a Minolta XD11/7 as I have read on this forum that they have the same internals. I have only worked with cloth shutters in SLRs and not the later bladed shutter curtains. To me this looks like it might be jammed but I am not 100% sure as an image of the shutter in the Minolta service manual looks similar, unfortunately this detail in the scanned document is to contrasty to tell. I am also wondering if there is a way to trip the shutter without using the shutter button? If you could help me out I would be very grateful! Many Thanks, Jack
  4. Hi there. Today while taking photos with my MP I realized some kind of liquid had dropped on the back of my camera. It had been dried before I noticed it. As a reflex I immediately clean the thing but the same stuff had also snuck on to the light seal cloth that covers the parameters of the back door. How can I clean the residue on the light seal? Or should I bother? I am afraid of the possibility of the strange liquid damaging the light seal.
  5. So I was ripping around in an off-road vehicle in Sedona and taking some beautiful landscape photos with my Q2. All of that off-roading caused the Q2 to get covered in some fine dust and sand and while the camera worked fine, you could feel the dust inside the aperture ring and dial—it was just a little grindy and you could tell it needed to be cleaned, but otherwise it was perfect. The camera got shipped off to Leica in New Jersey and 2 weeks later they came back with a repair starting point of $2,600! Apparently, they didn't open up the camera or anything and just do a general look at things and an assumption prior to the true estimate. My shop told me they wrote very basic notes - "Damages by sand - Need to adjust auto focus, replace parts, check, adjust, clean" - it seemed very templated. They did not say what parts needed to be replaced (according to my shop.) They did say shipping was included. Just wanted to see if anyone has any suggestions. Maybe the actual repair will cost less? Should I push back on them? Do I have other options outside of Leica? Thank you!
  6. Hi! Friends, who has repaired his "S2-P" with serious problems in the service in Germany ? Tell me, what was the price of repair? As far as I know my problem can not be solved by multiple battery charging or leaving the camera without battery for many days. My problem is 99% on the motherboard, which will most likely be replaced completely at the service. I have asked Leica several times this question of the approximate cost to replace the motherboard, but they won't tell me an approximate price. It's hard for me to send them the camera now, but I might be able to do so if I know the approximate cost of the most expensive camera repair (replacing the entire motherboard). Do you think it will be more than 1000 euros, right? If it's more expensive, I might be better off selling the camera for parts. PS The camera stopped working completely, two screens and all controls are completely disabled. However, the shutter button, exposure metering in the viewfinder and even autofocus works, but it doesn't record photos to the memory card. A warning signal flashes in the lower left corner of the viewfinder. The battery trick doesn't help, also attaching the grip (battery pack) doesn't help. Other memory cards, batteries, lenses do not help. The camera has not been exposed to rain. Careful use. A familiar repairman says that there is probably no voltage on the motherboard, that Leica will probably replace the entire motherboard. Thank you all for any possible answers.
  7. Hi, I am trying to replace the film rewind crank, and I cannot loosen the screw underneath the flip-out handle. Is there a trick to doing it? Or is it more complicated than just removing the screw? Thank you.
  8. Hello friends, I seem to have an issue that is not entirely rare. The cloth focal plane shutter curtain seems to stutter, or even bounce. I have searched this issue prior, and I guess "bounce" does seem to be the syntax for this certain phenomenon. I have included a clip of the shutter at 1/500 from a slow-mo video I attempted to take on my phone. I also scrubbed the video and took a screenshot of every frame that contained the movement of the shutter in the video. And to my surprise, by looking at the past two frames, the shutter does indeed appear to "bounce". The shutter seems to travel the full distance, with the second to last frame capturing the almost fully relaxed shutter. But then the last frame shows a larger gap of light appearing again. Not ideal. I noticed on a couple photos I took, a bar of overexposure on the right side of the frame. Since this issue is well documented and the solution known (CLA baby) my purpose for cluttering this forum with a much too common ailment was to possibly learn what could cause this? To make this already long winded post windier; I purchased the camera from Shueido Camera back in March 2022. It was supposedly CLA'd before sending out. The camera did come in, visually, absolute pristine condition. The first test roll I shot didn't seem to have any issues. But then I went on a 10 day trip to Iceland. Almost none of the photos I took in Iceland had the bar, but with overcast, cloudy days, I was most likely shooting at 1/250 and lower. (From what I understand this issue comes alight mostly at 1/500 & 1/1000 (increased tension for high speeds?)) Upon returning to the land of America, I shot some random pictures around me to finish off my last roll from Iceland. Almost all the photos exhibit the nefarious white bar of sadness on the right edge of the photo. Now, this is Florida, during midday, in summer, so one could assume almost every photo I took was at 1/500 and 1/1000. Could the Leica's foray into the land of Fire and Ice been too much for it's old bones? Could the 10 days of constant cold (I camped for the duration of my stay, so my new buddy did not spend much time in a comfy, first class, heated environment) affected this old tools mechanism, summoning the frosty ghost of over exposure? Thanks for even reading this phone typed, mental diarrhea. I know I have to get it CLA'd, but it is just simply a bummer that a camera would need a second CLA in one year. I'm hoping to figure out how this may have been caused so I may avoid bringing this problem back in the future. MOV_HFR_120F_20220723012348~3.mp4
  9. Hi guys! A few months ago I booked the "Leica Weekend at Leitz-Park" and last weekend I spent there for 2 days (from Friday to Saturday), dropped off my M6 Classic at the Leica Customer Care to fix the peeling off leatherette and asked the Leica staff member there about the M6 Classic repairability and MP black chrome. I wrote my experience on reddit in a 2-parter post attached with photos: Part 1: 2 days at Leitz-Park (more in the comments section) Part 2: Continuation: 2 days at Leitz-Park + M6 Classic & MP black chrome info from Leica staff (more in the comments) Here the excerpt for the relevant part in the part 2 write-up:
  10. After M6 TTL was proclaimed non-repairable by Leica Camera 2 years ago due to the lack of main circuit boards the same has now apparetly happened to M6 Classic, as per DAG website. The folks at RF forum wrote about the repair of the board not being a simple one and joked that after a possible malfunction your M6 Classic will be demoted to a M4-P free of charge.
  11. So over the weekend a few drops of red bull were spilled on the top plate of my M2 (don't ask) - mainly on the right hand side, so the frame counter and shutter button were hit. The day after I noticed that the aforementioned parts felt sticky - the shutter button particularly was returning to it's normal position more slowy after being depressed. I didn't have any isopropyl alcohol on hand since it seems to be impossible to find in the UK, so I put a drop or two of denatured ethyl alcohol (surgical spirit, as it is called here) into the shutter button, then began to depress it repeatedly. This process was repeated 2 or 3 times. It seems to have worked very well and the camera feels normal again, but I am scared that ethyl alcohol might have adverse effects on the camera. From what I've read, isopropyl alcohol (if anything) is what should be used, and I've even read that ethanol can react with brass to cause oxidation. Is this something that I should be worried about, or am I overreacting?
  12. Hi all, I recently got a Leica Q2 and the a few new noises have popped up. For one the aperture has started making an audible sound when engaging after half depressing the shutter button. It’s sort of like a light scrape that wasn’t there before. Second, the shutter is about twice as loud as it used to be. Is this something worth sending in for inspection? I have an important trip coming up in 2 months and wonder if I should wait until after to send it in. The camera was originally purchased in March. Best, Max
  13. I had my Leica Q sent for servicing, and now the proximity sensor for EVF does not work correctly. I have the display settings EVF - LCD set to "Auto", which should switch to EVF mode when I put the camera closer to my face, and switch to LCD when I move it away. However, the camera gets permanently "stuck" in the EVF mode no matter the position. The only way to switch it to LCD is to set the display settings to "LCD". I find it hard to believe that this wouldn't be noticed by the QA of Leica servicing (it was 560€ after all...) I reached out to them for clarification but it might take a while before I get an answer. What's worse is, that I had the camera serviced end of December, but then I went for traveling for 3 months (without the camera), and only noticed the issue now that I have an upcoming shoot this weekend, and I wanted to make sure everything is set up properly. Anyone had a similar issue by any chance? I only found references to this happening if you have a protector screen on the EVF, which I don't. I do have a screen protector on the LCD.
  14. Hi, Found this lovely forum while searching for info on a Leica R4 body described as having a "small problem". It belongs to a friend who gave me the option of buying it off him cheap, in its existing state, and trying to fix it and re-sell to a collector. I have been reading up on this and trying a few things and had a couple observations and questions that I am hoping the experts in this forum can help me with. 1) When I received it, I discovered that the shutter was not just firing with a delay, it was stuck and unusable. The film advance lever was stuck as well, indicating that the shutter probably froze midway through its cycle. The mirror was down, but the DOF preview lever was "loose". 2) The battery LED would light, but there was no activity in the viewfinder, meaning no leds or anything at all. The camera seemed dead. New batteries did not change anything. 3) After a fair bit of research, I found a thread (unsure where) that suggested "smacking" the camera bottom on a bed or similar soft surface. Somewhat frustrated, I did this, and it actually worked. The shutter finished its cycle and the film advance lever was working again, AND the viewfinder leds worked. I checked the meter and it seems fine too. 4) Advance the lever (no film), press the shutter, and same exact problem. But over many tests, I discovered that in B and 100, both mechanical modes, it would sometimes fire with a big delay, and other times get completely stuck. Smacking always releases the shutter. 5) Based on many threads in this forum, I believe this problem is typically related to dirty magnetic dampers. However, I find mixed information on how to reach the magnets. There was one thread that suggested it can be reached from the bottom plate and is easy, while another suggested it is behind the dof preview lever and complicated to reach, requiring some degree of disassembly. Unfortunately, I did not find information on WHAT disassembly is required. 6) In the meantime, I have also found that in all of the electronic modes (manual operation, but shutter speed electronic), the shutter button actually never fully depresses and therefore the shutter never fires at all. It feels like a half-press only in the electronic modes. In the mechanical mode, I can clearly see and feel the shutter go much deeper and actuate something. So my questions: 1) Is the shutter button behaving normally? Is there something else I am missing, as to why the shutter button won't fully depress in electronic mode, but works in mechanical mode? 2) If its the dampers, do I go from the bottom or the top? In any case, how do I get the top plate off and get any sort of serious disassembly done on this camera? I see one screw in the back, by the eye-piece control dial, and know that the top most screw on the mount holds the top plate down. But are those the only two screws? What else do I need to remove to get the top plate off? I am guessing the film rewind lever (on the left side, over the ISO dial) needs to come off, and the entire ISO dial mechanism probably needs to be lifted off too. What about on the right side, how do I get under the film advance lever and the shutter control? 3) Given the fact that the meter seems to work properly, I am guessing the electronics on this sample are okay (its a 156xxxx serial number). But just to be sure, if the electronics are toast, how do I know this? Any help/advice is appreciated, including an opinion on what price its worth buying at and then trying to fix it so I can keep it for myself, OR sell in working condition to a collector. A warning that it might be more valuable sold off to a collector in present condition than executing a botched repair and destroying its value completely is also taken in the right spirit. Thanks, Karthik PS - I literally went thru every single page of the English forum looking for answers. Now after posting, I see threads related to this in the German forum! Is there a way for me to search on the other language forums? Any pointers appreciated, but please understand that I did a pretty comprehensive search and processed what information I already found before making this thread
  15. Hi everyone, I'm currently working on a project to once and for all fix the analogue Leica CL's broken take up spool problem, by 3D printing them. I've ran a roll through mine with version 2 of the spool and it works pretty good, but i'm working on version 3 which should be better still - I got the dimensions slightly wrong on this one - it's too short. How many of you CL owners would be interested in buying such an item? They'd cost around £20 and be sold through eBay all said and done, and I'd make a video showing how to take apart the CL and install them, as well as reassembly - International shipping would happen too through the eBay GSP as I'm UK based. The attached photo is version 2 and not by any means the final version as this is still in very early development, but the quality of the ones that go on sale will be much higher. This one was printed by a friend of mine, but I'm soon going to acquire my own printer and make them much better. I know also that this doesn't look anything like the original, but when I copied the original part dimension for dimension, curve by curve, it didn't work and suffered the same problems as the original.. immediately. Thus I simplified it and made it more "3D Printer friendly." Thanks Tom
  16. OK. I am starting from that point where we all start: total ignorance. I receive my M8.2 today when FedEx delivers the little honey. I would not normally run an eBay camera by a repair facility to check it but this is special. And the seller has a 30 return window so I want a skilled tech to 1) look it over and evaluate its condition and, 2) do a CLA if needed. I will bring it up with the new lens so that the tech can check how well the lens gets along with the rangefinder. I have read on this board and in this sub-forum that two esteemed Leica techs will not open an M8/M8.2 because of "grounding issues." I have asked Wetzlar and finally Leica NJ about this. They have danced all around this and are as good at equivocation as any politician or time-share salesman. The best I could get out of them was that taking the camera to a non-Leica facility may void my warranty. They have not said that any other tech is unable to inspect, evaluate or repair the M8/M8.2. So I am going to be a guinea pig on this. I will take some pics when the camera arrives, of course, just to make sure it works. Tomorrow I will drive up to PDX and drop it off with a repair facility I have had do work in the past. They did the job right in the past on a Pentax digital. I will see what happens. I will know it worked before I brought it up. I will have the digital proof. I will also see what these fellows can do. And the tech left me a message to the effect that the M9 was pretty much an M8/M8.2 inside but with a bigger sensor. So we know he has opened up a few of them. As they used to say on TV, "Tape at Eleven."
  17. The inset ring at the front of my 75 Summicron has come loose. It's the ring to which I screw in filters. It comes completely out (when unscrewing a filter) but can easily be twisted back into place. Is there a suitable type of adhesive I can use to reattach it? I don't want to use something that may damage the lens (such as superglue) but it does seem like a simple repair and something I'd rather not be without the lens for. I'm thinking a couple of tiny little dots of an adhesive and it should be resolved, but what to use?
  18. My Leica developed a misalignment during my trip to Chicago last week. It was prominent at infinity. Shm it sucked so I emailed Leica repair got a out of the office message Then on Monday Bill Weier emailed me back and told me to bring it in they can fix it in an hour or so if I brought it in early in the morning while I waited. Cool my Leica also had some play in the screen and it's been like that since the last fix but I didn't mention it. Went there in the morning and the place seemed busy. Bill came right out and was a great guy. I had brought my Zeiss lens with me so he took the set to the back. A few minutes later he said,"Hey your rangefinder is out of alignment but so is your lens. It's back focusing. We can fix the rangefinder but not the lens" Oh NO! But hey I had a warranty with Zeiss so off that goes tomorrow. Then Bill says," Hey did you know about this?" as he pushes on the screen with his finger. I shake my head yes. He says," Hey when its this bad that means the seals failed completely and they need to fix it because dust is going into the camera." Well last time it came back cleaned with no dust behind the lcd but then developed the play. So I say ok well let's get that fixed you convinced me. He said it should take 3 weeks. Long story short... my camera is gone long gone lol. I drove all the way there because last time shipping something expensive ups lost it and that was a fiasco. Sorry for boring you guys. Oh ps. There weren't any free magazines......
  19. I just sent my 75mm Summarit lens to Youxin Ye for repair of a loose element. Literally, within a week he made the repair and shipped the lens back to me. Cost was very reasonable. Given the problem and wait times I have read about other services, I highly recommend Youxin. Cameras take longer than lenses, and I can't say that everyone will experience such rapid service. But I do recommend that you contact him if you need some work done. Youxin Ye 16 Fairview Road Canton, MA 02021 (781) 830-9141 www.yyecamera.com wye7@yahoo.com
  20. Hello everyone! I have aquired an M3, which so far looks allright to me, some bigger dents, shutter sounds like a charm, viever is bright and clear, but there is one issue that maybe you can help me. The strange thing is about the advance lever, I recognized when using it. Having forgotten if I advanced it allready after taking a picture or not I advanced it and it moved but it was allready strained. The lever seems to not get into the fix position after straining and still moves on in a loose way. I have a short video I just made with my phone right here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/f6emlz6nmzpe43j/IMG_0215.MOV?dl=0 Does anybody know where this could come from? And if this is something serious to care about? I d love to fix it but don t have the budget if this would be expersive. I never saw something like this on a film m. Thanks a lot in advance, best regards Christian
  21. Hello, Exactly a week ago, I sent my Leica Q in for repair. I've called a few times looking for updates without any success. I've left a voicemail for customer care to call back without any response. Today, I called again and the lady who I spoke to told me that repairs usually take 4-6 weeks and that my camera is in "repair status". She couldn't give me any other details about what have done if anything. Is there anyone here familiar with Leica's customer care? Should I keep calling every week to check on status? Hope and pray that my camera will magically show up on my front door one day? I would appreciate any feedback. Thank you!
  22. Hi everyone, I'm a photographer and also someone interested in film fotography and repair, I'm from Portugal and I'm new here and kind of really need some whelp here. So, I receive this lens to repair, and the diagnost was simple, someone have been messing up with the lens and as left a lot of screws just hanging inside the lens! I start to unscrew the outer srews on the mount, and al fine, until a realize the whole lens was just there juggling inside. My problem now is to try and take out the front element, how do I do that? There is no screws or holes on the front element. Any Idea? Thank you in advance
  23. Has anyone else sent a lens into the black hole of Leica USA repair? I sent in my 50mm Summilux ASPH so long ago, I barely remember I own one. The annoying thing is that I've left 2 messages so far with the promise on both that I'd be called back within 24 hours. No response. For whoever is curious, it was sent to tighten the horribly loose aperture ring, under warranty. Any tips? Similar experiences? It's been months and I just want my lens back.
  24. Hi all, this is my first time posting. I did a cursory search and found similar topics but not quite one with the exact problem I'm having. When I bought my M4-P used a few months ago, the slow shutter speed setting all fired a little slow, and at inconsistent rates. In particular 1 second was all over the place in terms of speed and 1/8 sec fired faster than 1/15. I read the forums and learned the escapement probably needed to be cleaned and figured I'd get around to taking to someone eventually. Well after a few months of standard use (I'm generally pretty gentle with my equipment but they get a light bump every now and then), the slow shutter speeds (1 - 1/15) all started firing at about the same rate and the "whirrr" of the escapement stopped. It was replaced with a short rattling sound. So I bought tools to remove the top plate and rangefinder to reveal the escapement. The forward most black arm of the escapement that engages the large gears just bounces back and forth (its the cause of the rattling sound) and the gears quickly spin back into place when firing the shutter, rather than slowly according to the shutter speed setting. I have zero experience with this but the hair spring seems to be in the right place. Anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem might be and how I can fix it? I'm sure its right in front of my face and I just don't know how to recognize it. I'll post photos later on when I get the chance as well. Thanks in advance Tj
  25. Does Leica service match their brand and their great products? I invite you to an open discussion about this based on my own experience (a little long text maybe). As many others, I contacted Leica due to some suspicious looking rows of dots on my pictures taken at low apertures. Leica Customer care looked at the samples I sent them and told me that I had to send my camera (M9P) to them to have it checked. Here is my first experience with Leica Customer Care described step wise. It is the service experience that I would like to discuss and not the specific technical problem: > I spent 150 Euro on shipping and insurance to have the camera sent to Leica. I had to make them confirm that they had received the camera. They didn’t do that automatically. > After a short while I got a message from Leica that the sensor was not defective but they would clean the sensor and adjust the rangefinder etc. I was happy with that, and said thank you. > After some weeks of waiting I contacted Leica to hear when they would send the camera back to me. I was told by a technician that I hadn’t communicated with before that there was a lead time of an additional 2 ½ months to have the camera cleaned. At that time they had already had the camera for more than a month. > I contacted Leica and told them to send the camera back to me un-cleaned since I had to use it for a field trip. I was the contacted by the first person that I had communicated with and he told me that they could have it cleaned and send back within a week. I was happy with that, and said thank you. > I got my camera back within the week as promised. However, as I went to check it I was really disappointed. The sensor was very dirty and hair-like strands that were not there before showed very clearly on the pictures even at F4. In fact the sensor was much worse than before and the dots that were the reason for sending the camera to Leica were indeed still visible. Along with the camera Leica had sent a certificate stating that the sensor had been cleaned and the camera cap was “sealed off” with the orange sticker. I personally do not believe that the sensor had been cleaned. > I contacted Leica again and told them in a friendly way that I did not see the problem solved. They returned to me and apologized and suggested that they had my camera back again. I told Leica that I was a bit reluctant to just send the camera back without knowing what would be done to it, and how long time it would take. They told me to send some DNGs that showed the problem, and they would find a swift solution – which I did. > After a couple of days I got a mail by accident from Leica. It was internal communication between my contact and a technician. In the mail I was characterized as being very “unzufrieden” which I actually don’t think was quite right. I had only pointed out the problems as described in an objective way. Internal mails ending up at the customer should really not happen. This is a big mistake in my eyes. > After some additional waiting time I contacted Leica to hear their conclusions, and after some more time I got the message that they needed to have the camera back to overhaul the sensor and evaluate if it needed to be changed. That was actually what they should have done when they got the camera in the first place, and they had already stated that the sensor was OK and cleaned anyway. > I contacted Leica and told them that I could not send in the camera right now because I needed it for a field trip, so I would dry clean the sensor myself to remove the dust, and then send in the camera at a later stage for the other problems. I asked if they could provide me with a device and a method for blowing the dust off. > After some more time I got a mail from a Danish agent that had not been in contact before. They told me that they heard I had problems with dust on the sensor and suggested that I contacted a certain Dealer in Denmark who they know is a Nikon/Canon expert??! > I will now search this forum and find a method to dry clean my sensor myself, and subsequently decide further actions…I need to go shooting rather than writing. I have 15 years of experience with technical service, and to me this is a very inconsistent performance by Leica – both in terms of communication and actions. So, my question: is there any learning for Leica here – and could we give them some constructive feedback and ideas for improvement? What is your experience?
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