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Found 57 results

  1. OK. I am starting from that point where we all start: total ignorance. I receive my M8.2 today when FedEx delivers the little honey. I would not normally run an eBay camera by a repair facility to check it but this is special. And the seller has a 30 return window so I want a skilled tech to 1) look it over and evaluate its condition and, 2) do a CLA if needed. I will bring it up with the new lens so that the tech can check how well the lens gets along with the rangefinder. I have read on this board and in this sub-forum that two esteemed Leica techs will not open an M8/M8.2 because of "grounding issues." I have asked Wetzlar and finally Leica NJ about this. They have danced all around this and are as good at equivocation as any politician or time-share salesman. The best I could get out of them was that taking the camera to a non-Leica facility may void my warranty. They have not said that any other tech is unable to inspect, evaluate or repair the M8/M8.2. So I am going to be a guinea pig on this. I will take some pics when the camera arrives, of course, just to make sure it works. Tomorrow I will drive up to PDX and drop it off with a repair facility I have had do work in the past. They did the job right in the past on a Pentax digital. I will see what happens. I will know it worked before I brought it up. I will have the digital proof. I will also see what these fellows can do. And the tech left me a message to the effect that the M9 was pretty much an M8/M8.2 inside but with a bigger sensor. So we know he has opened up a few of them. As they used to say on TV, "Tape at Eleven."
  2. Hi, Found this lovely forum while searching for info on a Leica R4 body described as having a "small problem". It belongs to a friend who gave me the option of buying it off him cheap, in its existing state, and trying to fix it and re-sell to a collector. I have been reading up on this and trying a few things and had a couple observations and questions that I am hoping the experts in this forum can help me with. 1) When I received it, I discovered that the shutter was not just firing with a delay, it was stuck and unusable. The film advance lever was stuck as well, indicating that the shutter probably froze midway through its cycle. The mirror was down, but the DOF preview lever was "loose". 2) The battery LED would light, but there was no activity in the viewfinder, meaning no leds or anything at all. The camera seemed dead. New batteries did not change anything. 3) After a fair bit of research, I found a thread (unsure where) that suggested "smacking" the camera bottom on a bed or similar soft surface. Somewhat frustrated, I did this, and it actually worked. The shutter finished its cycle and the film advance lever was working again, AND the viewfinder leds worked. I checked the meter and it seems fine too. 4) Advance the lever (no film), press the shutter, and same exact problem. But over many tests, I discovered that in B and 100, both mechanical modes, it would sometimes fire with a big delay, and other times get completely stuck. Smacking always releases the shutter. 5) Based on many threads in this forum, I believe this problem is typically related to dirty magnetic dampers. However, I find mixed information on how to reach the magnets. There was one thread that suggested it can be reached from the bottom plate and is easy, while another suggested it is behind the dof preview lever and complicated to reach, requiring some degree of disassembly. Unfortunately, I did not find information on WHAT disassembly is required. 6) In the meantime, I have also found that in all of the electronic modes (manual operation, but shutter speed electronic), the shutter button actually never fully depresses and therefore the shutter never fires at all. It feels like a half-press only in the electronic modes. In the mechanical mode, I can clearly see and feel the shutter go much deeper and actuate something. So my questions: 1) Is the shutter button behaving normally? Is there something else I am missing, as to why the shutter button won't fully depress in electronic mode, but works in mechanical mode? 2) If its the dampers, do I go from the bottom or the top? In any case, how do I get the top plate off and get any sort of serious disassembly done on this camera? I see one screw in the back, by the eye-piece control dial, and know that the top most screw on the mount holds the top plate down. But are those the only two screws? What else do I need to remove to get the top plate off? I am guessing the film rewind lever (on the left side, over the ISO dial) needs to come off, and the entire ISO dial mechanism probably needs to be lifted off too. What about on the right side, how do I get under the film advance lever and the shutter control? 3) Given the fact that the meter seems to work properly, I am guessing the electronics on this sample are okay (its a 156xxxx serial number). But just to be sure, if the electronics are toast, how do I know this? Any help/advice is appreciated, including an opinion on what price its worth buying at and then trying to fix it so I can keep it for myself, OR sell in working condition to a collector. A warning that it might be more valuable sold off to a collector in present condition than executing a botched repair and destroying its value completely is also taken in the right spirit. Thanks, Karthik PS - I literally went thru every single page of the English forum looking for answers. Now after posting, I see threads related to this in the German forum! Is there a way for me to search on the other language forums? Any pointers appreciated, but please understand that I did a pretty comprehensive search and processed what information I already found before making this thread
  3. Hi everyone, I'm currently working on a project to once and for all fix the analogue Leica CL's broken take up spool problem, by 3D printing them. I've ran a roll through mine with version 2 of the spool and it works pretty good, but i'm working on version 3 which should be better still - I got the dimensions slightly wrong on this one - it's too short. How many of you CL owners would be interested in buying such an item? They'd cost around £20 and be sold through eBay all said and done, and I'd make a video showing how to take apart the CL and install them, as well as reassembly - International shipping would happen too through the eBay GSP as I'm UK based. The attached photo is version 2 and not by any means the final version as this is still in very early development, but the quality of the ones that go on sale will be much higher. This one was printed by a friend of mine, but I'm soon going to acquire my own printer and make them much better. I know also that this doesn't look anything like the original, but when I copied the original part dimension for dimension, curve by curve, it didn't work and suffered the same problems as the original.. immediately. Thus I simplified it and made it more "3D Printer friendly." Thanks Tom
  4. Hello, Exactly a week ago, I sent my Leica Q in for repair. I've called a few times looking for updates without any success. I've left a voicemail for customer care to call back without any response. Today, I called again and the lady who I spoke to told me that repairs usually take 4-6 weeks and that my camera is in "repair status". She couldn't give me any other details about what have done if anything. Is there anyone here familiar with Leica's customer care? Should I keep calling every week to check on status? Hope and pray that my camera will magically show up on my front door one day? I would appreciate any feedback. Thank you!
  5. Hi! I have a mint Leica R7, worked always without any issue but today I noticed when attaching the Summicron the "A" (full and centered) modes were no displaying when changing the modes (it displayed "m" and even the controls were manual), the same for the program mode (where it said time priority"). is it possible that maybe the metal contact of the selector needs a clean or the electronic has a big problem? or what can it be? (the lens I'm using is a "R only" lens, I had the R4s2 before and it functioned in all modes with no problems) Thanks
  6. Hi all. So looks like there is no end to my bad luck having to send lenses to Leica for repair or adjustment. This time my Super-Elmar-M 21mm has developed a wobble in front part of the lens. I guess I am not the only one who had this issue with the Super-Elmar-M in the past. But I would need some advice. How long usually fixing wobble issues has taken at Wetzlar? I found this video: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZL3WojYoXQ). Is same kind of procedure possible to do by yourself for the SEM 21? I would just hate to wait again 3-4 months for a lens repair, because it is my favourite lens and I use it almost every week... Is it covered by warranty? Lens was bought less than 2 years ago. If you have experience on having to pay for fixing wobble issues how much has it usually cost? I know I should give them (Leica Service) a call go get answers for my questions. But I still would like to know what I am dealing with. Thank you very much for answers
  7. Hello Unfortunately I have a problem with my Leica M4 and I would like to know where I can have it checked in Berlin. Thanks and Greetings Manuel
  8. I read somewhere that Leica will offer users of M9s with bad sensors the opportunity to upgrade to the M240. Has anyone received one of these offers and if so, how much would the upgrade through Leica have been?
  9. Does Leica service match their brand and their great products? I invite you to an open discussion about this based on my own experience (a little long text maybe). As many others, I contacted Leica due to some suspicious looking rows of dots on my pictures taken at low apertures. Leica Customer care looked at the samples I sent them and told me that I had to send my camera (M9P) to them to have it checked. Here is my first experience with Leica Customer Care described step wise. It is the service experience that I would like to discuss and not the specific technical problem: > I spent 150 Euro on shipping and insurance to have the camera sent to Leica. I had to make them confirm that they had received the camera. They didn’t do that automatically. > After a short while I got a message from Leica that the sensor was not defective but they would clean the sensor and adjust the rangefinder etc. I was happy with that, and said thank you. > After some weeks of waiting I contacted Leica to hear when they would send the camera back to me. I was told by a technician that I hadn’t communicated with before that there was a lead time of an additional 2 ½ months to have the camera cleaned. At that time they had already had the camera for more than a month. > I contacted Leica and told them to send the camera back to me un-cleaned since I had to use it for a field trip. I was the contacted by the first person that I had communicated with and he told me that they could have it cleaned and send back within a week. I was happy with that, and said thank you. > I got my camera back within the week as promised. However, as I went to check it I was really disappointed. The sensor was very dirty and hair-like strands that were not there before showed very clearly on the pictures even at F4. In fact the sensor was much worse than before and the dots that were the reason for sending the camera to Leica were indeed still visible. Along with the camera Leica had sent a certificate stating that the sensor had been cleaned and the camera cap was “sealed off” with the orange sticker. I personally do not believe that the sensor had been cleaned. > I contacted Leica again and told them in a friendly way that I did not see the problem solved. They returned to me and apologized and suggested that they had my camera back again. I told Leica that I was a bit reluctant to just send the camera back without knowing what would be done to it, and how long time it would take. They told me to send some DNGs that showed the problem, and they would find a swift solution – which I did. > After a couple of days I got a mail by accident from Leica. It was internal communication between my contact and a technician. In the mail I was characterized as being very “unzufrieden” which I actually don’t think was quite right. I had only pointed out the problems as described in an objective way. Internal mails ending up at the customer should really not happen. This is a big mistake in my eyes. > After some additional waiting time I contacted Leica to hear their conclusions, and after some more time I got the message that they needed to have the camera back to overhaul the sensor and evaluate if it needed to be changed. That was actually what they should have done when they got the camera in the first place, and they had already stated that the sensor was OK and cleaned anyway. > I contacted Leica and told them that I could not send in the camera right now because I needed it for a field trip, so I would dry clean the sensor myself to remove the dust, and then send in the camera at a later stage for the other problems. I asked if they could provide me with a device and a method for blowing the dust off. > After some more time I got a mail from a Danish agent that had not been in contact before. They told me that they heard I had problems with dust on the sensor and suggested that I contacted a certain Dealer in Denmark who they know is a Nikon/Canon expert??! > I will now search this forum and find a method to dry clean my sensor myself, and subsequently decide further actions…I need to go shooting rather than writing. I have 15 years of experience with technical service, and to me this is a very inconsistent performance by Leica – both in terms of communication and actions. So, my question: is there any learning for Leica here – and could we give them some constructive feedback and ideas for improvement? What is your experience?
  10. Hi all, this is my first time posting. I did a cursory search and found similar topics but not quite one with the exact problem I'm having. When I bought my M4-P used a few months ago, the slow shutter speed setting all fired a little slow, and at inconsistent rates. In particular 1 second was all over the place in terms of speed and 1/8 sec fired faster than 1/15. I read the forums and learned the escapement probably needed to be cleaned and figured I'd get around to taking to someone eventually. Well after a few months of standard use (I'm generally pretty gentle with my equipment but they get a light bump every now and then), the slow shutter speeds (1 - 1/15) all started firing at about the same rate and the "whirrr" of the escapement stopped. It was replaced with a short rattling sound. So I bought tools to remove the top plate and rangefinder to reveal the escapement. The forward most black arm of the escapement that engages the large gears just bounces back and forth (its the cause of the rattling sound) and the gears quickly spin back into place when firing the shutter, rather than slowly according to the shutter speed setting. I have zero experience with this but the hair spring seems to be in the right place. Anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem might be and how I can fix it? I'm sure its right in front of my face and I just don't know how to recognize it. I'll post photos later on when I get the chance as well. Thanks in advance Tj
  11. I just got my M3 back from Don Goldberg - one word - WOW. In my hands I now hold a better than new M3. But, more than that, coming from that same object, I feel the result of many many years of skill, a top notch dedicated craftsman at work, an artist knowing his trade and tools so well that they become invisible! Let us tell these people how much we appreciate their labours, how much we appreciate them. Sherri, Don, Gus - these three have all done SUPERB work for me. And you? C'mon everyone, let's let our "Doctors" know...
  12. Hi, my rather new MP is suffering from the "underexposed frame syndrome" (and also a lot of software failures). My reasearch here indicates that at least the shutter has to be replaced. My research also indicated that Leica service is rather slow. What can I do to speed things up? Any advise? I have to time this carefully, as I have no replacement camera. There exisits or existed an express service, but asking google I can not find any current information. Has this service be discontinued? Any other hints that worked for you for speeding up things? Thank you, Bernd
  13. The inset ring at the front of my 75 Summicron has come loose. It's the ring to which I screw in filters. It comes completely out (when unscrewing a filter) but can easily be twisted back into place. Is there a suitable type of adhesive I can use to reattach it? I don't want to use something that may damage the lens (such as superglue) but it does seem like a simple repair and something I'd rather not be without the lens for. I'm thinking a couple of tiny little dots of an adhesive and it should be resolved, but what to use?
  14. Hello, I'm new to this forum and I'm seeking some experienced advice. I recently purchased a Leitz Summaron 35 f3.5 with goggles from eBay at a very reasonable price - for a reason - the rear element has considerable haze/fog that is noticeable on every image. I've been reading on the web that it is possible to clean the glass and even to DIY it: Removing Haze from Leitz 35mm F/3.5 Summaron Lens - DJCPHOTO.COM Now, I've tried going ahead with the instructions provided by the link above but I'm finding it impossible to remove the rear lens retaining ring. In addition, I have unscrewed the focusing helicoid and I think I have not been able to put it back together correctly. Apart from sending my lens to more competent hands, does anyone have other advice or guidelines for cleaning the lenses (and putting the focusing helicoid back correctly...) myself? Thanks for your time
  15. . . . Leica will continue to support the CCD sensor cameras (M8, M9, M-E, MM)? I'd love an M-E, or maybe an MM, but as someone who bought a DMR not knowing Leica was about to drop the R line altogether, I worry about how long the sensors and other electronics might be available. Has Leica made any announcement in this regard, or does anyone have any inside information? I should mention that my R9/DMR is still working marvelously, so far. I just have these insecurities. Did the monetary outlay not reflect such a significant commitment, I wouldn't worry so much. Brent
  16. I first noticed that something was terrible wrong when 2/3 of my pictures turned up black. Fortunately I check the images frequently while shooting. To my shock I discovered what you see on this picture. What had happened? I have sent the camera and the two lenses that I were using to Leica awaiting the verdict. Anyone experienced similar? Helge Pedersen
  17. My Coolscan V went out of order about 15 month back. After ignoring him for that long, I finally gave it a final try and opened it. Some screws are hidden under the rubber feet. Thanks to the nicely printed circuit board, I quickly found out where the fuse is. The specification on the board says T2AH 250V. Not really an electronic wizard, I however concluded after some internet checks, that this requires a 2A, 250V fuse, "träge" (don't know how to translate that in this context, maybe "slow"). [ATTACH]186834[/ATTACH] Then I discovered that Nikon has actually placed a 1A fuse in the socket, which was blown not quite surprisingly. After replacement with the proper fuse, the whole thing runs as it never had a problem. Regards Ivo
  18. My Leica M8 has a loose shutter leaf. I noticed it when all of the sudden a bright white stroke of light appeared on my photos. I made the loose shutter leaf conclusion after removing the lens and looking at the shutter. A loose shutter leaf is clearly visible. I hope I can find a solution through this community. I bought it two months ago as my first Leica. I'm missing it already.
  19. jip

    M9-P repair

    What can I expect with the following statement? My Deutsch isn't that good, I understand most of it but if someone has more of a understanding I would be glad... especially the part about the leather?
  20. Hi all! This is my very first post in here and i'm sorry this is pretty annoying for you. Lately, i'm experiencing the same problem as described in this thread: http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-m9-forum/223557-help-again-sensor.html So, i'm going to send my M9 back to Solms. I have a question for all of you who, sadly, have experienced the same problem as mine: have i to send also a lens to the Leica customer care, in addition to the camera and the SD card? My question came up after reading the needed accessories on the RBS (battery, battery charger, SD card, lenses resp. camera). Thank you in advance. Enzo
  21. Hi folks, Wondering if anyone on here has ever experienced a physically sticky thumbwheel on the back of their M9. I bought my camera used and didn't notice it's stickiness much when I tested it out, but I feel like I notice it all the time now during real world use. The wheel spins downward with my thumb just fine, but going up it's not as smooth and sometimes stick. Then needs a little more oomph to get around. It doesn't however affect the controls on the LCD screen. I've tried cleaning out the grooves to see if there was any dust which helped a bit, but the stickiness comes back. Does anyone know if Leica lubricates this part of the camera at all? Thanks for taking the time to read this. Braniff
  22. Hi All Not long ago I finally took my Digilux 2 to a Leica store for inspection and repair. I have always suspected the reason why I got dead black screen and couldn't power on was the image sensor (or whatever reason that everyone else had). The shop examined it and reported that they couldn't fix it because Leica no longer produced the parts for Digilux 2. I know it's my fault to have waited this long to try fixing it, but I've always thought Leica would value its machines well enough to at least keep the capability of repairing them. I don't know what to do now. The shop I brought it in was a legit distributor in Taipei. They claimed they have called Germany headquarters and no luck with spare parts. Should I try Leica Germany again? Or Leica US? Or is there any third party Leica-specialist repair shop I can go to? Perhaps use the parts from the Panasonic counterpart of Digilux 2? Sorry for the rambling. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks. HC
  23. My Trusty little Leitz 40mm f/2 was suffering from aging grease, Canada Balsam and the internal black paint had begun to become detached also so a repair was needed I also wanted to add a modern focus tap. Since the lens is so cheap I decided to try it out myself. I have a lot of knowledge about AF and MF Nikkor, Cannon Olympus and Vooigtlanders SLR and Leica mount lenses, most parts of the design and build is same same :-) but this tiny Leica has some differences as to how it's put together, first I was very disappointed to find that the front threads part series 5.5 threads is glued to the aperture housing, next I found that the rings that 'normally' have two holes or ridges for lens spanners for tightening the old Leitz lens had one or even none, so had to be taken apart with friction, a rubber tube of the right thickness must be used to reach into some parts of the lens to get it apart, I modified these rings, drilling two holes makes the hole deal a lot easier. Got it all dismantled and sorted out, the two elements with the Canada Balsam issue got a 'cooking' treatment in boiling water to separate the two halves. A drop of Araldite Krystal and the two are inseparable, a coat of mat black paint to finish the job off. Putting everything back together without leaving dust or prints is the worst part... The old gease was cleaned off and the many threaded focus threads lubed with new grease and put back together as marked by disassembly. The new focus tap needed a slight trim to clear the mounting ring and two extra location holes to keep it in alignment a single screw holds it in place. Everything fits within very tight tolerances; position of glass elements, focus threads so it was a joy to work on it. All the parts, note extra holes, the two glass element front center Extra holes for focus tap in focus mount. Focusmount with focus tap. 24 hours wait for the Epoxy to cure and testing today went very well, focus at infinity and all the way to 0.7m is spot on. Lens is now in good service condition and much closer to my heart
  24. Hey, be kind it is my first post here! So I have an M4-P, and succeeded in knocking the little focusing knob off of my 35mm Summicron. I need a replacement part basically - two pictures below should explain things best. Any suggestions or recommendations for the place would be great. I do not want to send my camera to them, I am looking to just get the part sent to a US address. thanks! Marco
  25. Hello everyone! I have aquired an M3, which so far looks allright to me, some bigger dents, shutter sounds like a charm, viever is bright and clear, but there is one issue that maybe you can help me. The strange thing is about the advance lever, I recognized when using it. Having forgotten if I advanced it allready after taking a picture or not I advanced it and it moved but it was allready strained. The lever seems to not get into the fix position after straining and still moves on in a loose way. I have a short video I just made with my phone right here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/f6emlz6nmzpe43j/IMG_0215.MOV?dl=0 Does anybody know where this could come from? And if this is something serious to care about? I d love to fix it but don t have the budget if this would be expersive. I never saw something like this on a film m. Thanks a lot in advance, best regards Christian
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