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Hi! Friends, who has repaired his "S2-P" with serious problems in the service in Germany ? Tell me, what was the price of repair? As far as I know my problem can not be solved by multiple battery charging or leaving the camera without battery for many days. My problem is 99% on the motherboard, which will most likely be replaced completely at the service. I have asked Leica several times this question of the approximate cost to replace the motherboard, but they won't tell me an approximate price. It's hard for me to send them the camera now, but I might be able to do so if I know the approximate cost of the most expensive camera repair (replacing the entire motherboard). Do you think it will be more than 1000 euros, right? If it's more expensive, I might be better off selling the camera for parts. PS The camera stopped working completely, two screens and all controls are completely disabled. However, the shutter button, exposure metering in the viewfinder and even autofocus works, but it doesn't record photos to the memory card. A warning signal flashes in the lower left corner of the viewfinder. The battery trick doesn't help, also attaching the grip (battery pack) doesn't help. Other memory cards, batteries, lenses do not help. The camera has not been exposed to rain. Careful use. A familiar repairman says that there is probably no voltage on the motherboard, that Leica will probably replace the entire motherboard. Thank you all for any possible answers.

Hi all, I recently got a Leica Q2 and the a few new noises have popped up. For one the aperture has started making an audible sound when engaging after half depressing the shutter button. It’s sort of like a light scrape that wasn’t there before. Second, the shutter is about twice as loud as it used to be. Is this something worth sending in for inspection? I have an important trip coming up in 2 months and wonder if I should wait until after to send it in. The camera was originally purchased in March. Best, Max

My Trusty little Leitz 40mm f/2 was suffering from aging grease, Canada Balsam and the internal black paint had begun to become detached also so a repair was needed I also wanted to add a modern focus tap. Since the lens is so cheap I decided to try it out myself. I have a lot of knowledge about AF and MF Nikkor, Cannon Olympus and Vooigtlanders SLR and Leica mount lenses, most parts of the design and build is same same :-) but this tiny Leica has some differences as to how it's put together, first I was very disappointed to find that the front threads part series 5.5 threads is glued to the aperture housing, next I found that the rings that 'normally' have two holes or ridges for lens spanners for tightening the old Leitz lens had one or even none, so had to be taken apart with friction, a rubber tube of the right thickness must be used to reach into some parts of the lens to get it apart, I modified these rings, drilling two holes makes the hole deal a lot easier. Got it all dismantled and sorted out, the two elements with the Canada Balsam issue got a 'cooking' treatment in boiling water to separate the two halves. A drop of Araldite Krystal and the two are inseparable, a coat of mat black paint to finish the job off. Putting everything back together without leaving dust or prints is the worst part... The old gease was cleaned off and the many threaded focus threads lubed with new grease and put back together as marked by disassembly. The new focus tap needed a slight trim to clear the mounting ring and two extra location holes to keep it in alignment a single screw holds it in place. Everything fits within very tight tolerances; position of glass elements, focus threads so it was a joy to work on it. All the parts, note extra holes, the two glass element front center Extra holes for focus tap in focus mount. Focusmount with focus tap. 24 hours wait for the Epoxy to cure and testing today went very well, focus at infinity and all the way to 0.7m is spot on. Lens is now in good service condition and much closer to my heart

So over the weekend a few drops of red bull were spilled on the top plate of my M2 (don't ask) - mainly on the right hand side, so the frame counter and shutter button were hit. The day after I noticed that the aforementioned parts felt sticky - the shutter button particularly was returning to it's normal position more slowy after being depressed. I didn't have any isopropyl alcohol on hand since it seems to be impossible to find in the UK, so I put a drop or two of denatured ethyl alcohol (surgical spirit, as it is called here) into the shutter button, then began to depress it repeatedly. This process was repeated 2 or 3 times. It seems to have worked very well and the camera feels normal again, but I am scared that ethyl alcohol might have adverse effects on the camera. From what I've read, isopropyl alcohol (if anything) is what should be used, and I've even read that ethanol can react with brass to cause oxidation. Is this something that I should be worried about, or am I overreacting?

I had my Leica Q sent for servicing, and now the proximity sensor for EVF does not work correctly. I have the display settings EVF - LCD set to "Auto", which should switch to EVF mode when I put the camera closer to my face, and switch to LCD when I move it away. However, the camera gets permanently "stuck" in the EVF mode no matter the position. The only way to switch it to LCD is to set the display settings to "LCD". I find it hard to believe that this wouldn't be noticed by the QA of Leica servicing (it was 560€ after all...) I reached out to them for clarification but it might take a while before I get an answer. What's worse is, that I had the camera serviced end of December, but then I went for traveling for 3 months (without the camera), and only noticed the issue now that I have an upcoming shoot this weekend, and I wanted to make sure everything is set up properly. Anyone had a similar issue by any chance? I only found references to this happening if you have a protector screen on the EVF, which I don't. I do have a screen protector on the LCD.

Some of my R bodies have the internal black coating flaking off. Is there a way to fix that? Could I use a vacuum cleaner to remove all the loose coating, and then paint the inside with a black antireflective paint?

Can anyone shed light on whether Leica is/has restricted the availability of spare parts to repairers outside their official repairers in Australia? Several weeks ago my M3 suffered a detached shutter curtain and I contacted several repairers worldwide and all informed me that they could do the work so obviously they had access to the correct parts. On contacting a well renowned repairer here in Oz he informed me that some time ago he attempted to seek some parts for a job and was told by Leica Australia that the policy now was no internal parts were being supplied. I contacted the Leica repairers (Camera Clinic, Melbourne) and they said they also could not come by the part, and furthermore, Leica Germany was no longer repairing film bodies. Finally I emailed Leica Australia and within several days they replied that the part was available, gave me the cost (very reasonable) and said it would be approx. 4 weeks for delivery?! I am now awaiting the parts to arrive but it bothers me that there seems to be either some accidental or intentional misinformation being put out to the detriment of owners and users like myself. Thank you for any information you may have on this matter.

I am very pleased to say that my M9 returned home today after being with Leica since September for the removal of an SD card label (Fuji 16gb card) jammed in the shutter, and for a sensor clean and service. It came as a surprise as they had bot notified me it was on its way, but they appear to have done a great job, and sent it back in its own box by UPS. Now to tackle Fuji about the SD card, who seemed to be pretty disinterested when I spoke to them on phone. Gerry

Hello- I just got my M4-2 back from a repair service for this light leak/shutter issue - a band across the top. I got my first roll back, and 95% of the frames didn't have it - but the last few frames did. None of the frames with my 35mm Summicron had it, only the last few with a 50mm Canon 1.4 LTM with an adapter. Is there any chance this is a lens/adapter issue, or is the shutter still the culprit? Band happend when shot into the direct sun at 1000th, sun behind be at 100th; and also in muted indoor light around 250th. Cheers

Hi all, I'm a new Leica owner. Got an R6 off a local photographer who let me use it for a few weeks before purchase. Worked fine; price was right, so I paid him for it. I have put through maybe 5-6 rolls through it successfully over the course of my testing period and then shortly after purchase. Tried loading a fresh roll of film the other day. Put the leader in the spool, pressed the shutter button, but the mirror is not moving after I press on the button. The shutter button seems to press down fine, however. Since the mirror is not moving after I hit the shutter, I am not able to wind forward the film. I have tried: moving all parts individually: the mirror, film spool, winder, shutter, film release/double exposure button all move the way that they should. There are no snags or tension. The mirror in particular moves up and down smoothly and doesn't seem out of alignment. The winder and spool do not seem to be loose or have tension; they feel like they move fine. firing the camera with the back open/closed on different shutter speeds tried pressing shutter button/winding the lever at the same time, tried pressing the rewind button and winding the lever at the same time. Since the moving parts seem to be ok, it leads me to think maybe something needs an oiling? Or maybe a spring rusted or got stretched? Or something got unattached? I want to open the camera up and try and see what's going on when I fire the shutter. However I wanted to come here for some advice guidance first. There just doesn't seem to be much in the way of R6 troubleshooting online. One thing to add: I notice while switching between shutter speeds I do hear a mechanical buzz. Doesn't seem to be on every change of the shutter however. Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks!

I have an XPAN II with the 45mm lens; when it needs to be repaired or have a CLA, where would I send it? As far as I know, Hasselblad doesn't work on the XPAN these days. Can anyone point me in the right direction? There was a post a while back about this so I spent a lot of time this evening using the search function for XPAN repair but came up empty handed. Thanks in advance for your help, gents and ladies.

First sample is at 1/125 ss. Notice the white stripe near the right edge. It looks pretty much the same at 1/250 and 1/500, however, at 1/60 it's gone. I haven't seen the results at 1/60, but that's what I've been told. Last sample is at 1/1000 and things are much worse there. I am going to make more tests, but what do you think it can be? Shutter? A body was stored without lens attached to it and without front cap covering the mount, so shutter was basically uncovered. However, I couldn't find any obvious signs of damage on shutter. And if it's a shutter problem, repair would probably cost more then a camera itself, right?

Hello everyone, I just got my estimate back from Leica and wanted your advice. I sent M7 in for repair becuse the film started to bind up, this is the most expensive part of the repair at $400.00. I see alot of Misc items on the estimate Leather Covering-$50 Battery cover for M7-$20 Rewind crank -$75 When I sent it in there was nothing wrong with these items and left with battery cover. My question is this common for Leica to come back with these misc repairs? and are those nessary? I know owning this camera $800 for repair seems kinda high. Thanks Mark

Hey guys, I'm new to this forum and I'm also new to the Leica M system. I just bought my new m10 one month ago with a Elmarit 28mm ASPH (so far). After some shooting I noticed a relatively big spot in the upper right part of the sensor. I don't know how this could have happened because I never changed lens till I opened the camera and attached the Elmarit the first time. It's very annoying to pay so much money for a camera and then having a spot on the sensor. Do you have advice what to do now? Should I send it to Wetzlar or can I fix it on my own? I did a sensor cleaning on my DSLR once, but I'm a bit afraid of doing so on this expensive, new camera. I don't want to make it worse... Cheers, Sebastian

Hi Guys, I've been using my M6 TTL without an issue for sometime and then I left it dormant for around a year when I left the country... Now the meter wont work , the M6 would work fine and still take pictures if exposed correctly with an external light meter, but the mechanism now would not turn on. I'm based in NYC and have sent it to the Leica repair and they sent it back saying that they can't fix it because they "no longer have the parts", I contact Sherry Krauter and she said that she gets her parts from Leica, so if they don't have it, she won't either. So really now I'm just asking for help! Thanks! H

Hello there, I have decided to start a topic on jammed shutter issue of Leica film cameras. I experienced this issue while taking photos at the Shard. My camera had been loaded with Adox CMS 20 II, the microfilm had the highest resolving power. The first fifteen frames were beautiful to enjoy the view. Yet after 16th frame, the camera was jammed. Since I tried to force its advance lever, it was totally broken. One wondering what was happened may look at the result here. I sent my camera to Wetzlar via Leica Store Mayfair. After eight weeks, it came back to London in a repaired condition under warranty. Recently, I have heard similar experiences to mine. Some of them is not related to choose Adox's films, since they have occurred while using Ilford's HP5+, and so on. In order to build a guide for one who could experience the same, may you share your experiences on jammed shutter, or advance lever stuck?

Has anyone else sent a lens into the black hole of Leica USA repair? I sent in my 50mm Summilux ASPH so long ago, I barely remember I own one. The annoying thing is that I've left 2 messages so far with the promise on both that I'd be called back within 24 hours. No response. For whoever is curious, it was sent to tighten the horribly loose aperture ring, under warranty. Any tips? Similar experiences? It's been months and I just want my lens back.

Hi all. So looks like there is no end to my bad luck having to send lenses to Leica for repair or adjustment. This time my Super-Elmar-M 21mm has developed a wobble in front part of the lens. I guess I am not the only one who had this issue with the Super-Elmar-M in the past. But I would need some advice. How long usually fixing wobble issues has taken at Wetzlar? I found this video: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZL3WojYoXQ). Is same kind of procedure possible to do by yourself for the SEM 21? I would just hate to wait again 3-4 months for a lens repair, because it is my favourite lens and I use it almost every week... Is it covered by warranty? Lens was bought less than 2 years ago. If you have experience on having to pay for fixing wobble issues how much has it usually cost? I know I should give them (Leica Service) a call go get answers for my questions. But I still would like to know what I am dealing with. Thank you very much for answers

My Leica developed a misalignment during my trip to Chicago last week. It was prominent at infinity. Shm it sucked so I emailed Leica repair got a out of the office message Then on Monday Bill Weier emailed me back and told me to bring it in they can fix it in an hour or so if I brought it in early in the morning while I waited. Cool my Leica also had some play in the screen and it's been like that since the last fix but I didn't mention it. Went there in the morning and the place seemed busy. Bill came right out and was a great guy. I had brought my Zeiss lens with me so he took the set to the back. A few minutes later he said,"Hey your rangefinder is out of alignment but so is your lens. It's back focusing. We can fix the rangefinder but not the lens" Oh NO! But hey I had a warranty with Zeiss so off that goes tomorrow. Then Bill says," Hey did you know about this?" as he pushes on the screen with his finger. I shake my head yes. He says," Hey when its this bad that means the seals failed completely and they need to fix it because dust is going into the camera." Well last time it came back cleaned with no dust behind the lcd but then developed the play. So I say ok well let's get that fixed you convinced me. He said it should take 3 weeks. Long story short... my camera is gone long gone lol. I drove all the way there because last time shipping something expensive ups lost it and that was a fiasco. Sorry for boring you guys. Oh ps. There weren't any free magazines......

Hello Unfortunately I have a problem with my Leica M4 and I would like to know where I can have it checked in Berlin. Thanks and Greetings Manuel

Hi, my rather new MP is suffering from the "underexposed frame syndrome" (and also a lot of software failures). My reasearch here indicates that at least the shutter has to be replaced. My research also indicated that Leica service is rather slow. What can I do to speed things up? Any advise? I have to time this carefully, as I have no replacement camera. There exisits or existed an express service, but asking google I can not find any current information. Has this service be discontinued? Any other hints that worked for you for speeding up things? Thank you, Bernd

I read somewhere that Leica will offer users of M9s with bad sensors the opportunity to upgrade to the M240. Has anyone received one of these offers and if so, how much would the upgrade through Leica have been?

Does Leica service match their brand and their great products? I invite you to an open discussion about this based on my own experience (a little long text maybe). As many others, I contacted Leica due to some suspicious looking rows of dots on my pictures taken at low apertures. Leica Customer care looked at the samples I sent them and told me that I had to send my camera (M9P) to them to have it checked. Here is my first experience with Leica Customer Care described step wise. It is the service experience that I would like to discuss and not the specific technical problem: > I spent 150 Euro on shipping and insurance to have the camera sent to Leica. I had to make them confirm that they had received the camera. They didn’t do that automatically. > After a short while I got a message from Leica that the sensor was not defective but they would clean the sensor and adjust the rangefinder etc. I was happy with that, and said thank you. > After some weeks of waiting I contacted Leica to hear when they would send the camera back to me. I was told by a technician that I hadn’t communicated with before that there was a lead time of an additional 2 ½ months to have the camera cleaned. At that time they had already had the camera for more than a month. > I contacted Leica and told them to send the camera back to me un-cleaned since I had to use it for a field trip. I was the contacted by the first person that I had communicated with and he told me that they could have it cleaned and send back within a week. I was happy with that, and said thank you. > I got my camera back within the week as promised. However, as I went to check it I was really disappointed. The sensor was very dirty and hair-like strands that were not there before showed very clearly on the pictures even at F4. In fact the sensor was much worse than before and the dots that were the reason for sending the camera to Leica were indeed still visible. Along with the camera Leica had sent a certificate stating that the sensor had been cleaned and the camera cap was “sealed off” with the orange sticker. I personally do not believe that the sensor had been cleaned. > I contacted Leica again and told them in a friendly way that I did not see the problem solved. They returned to me and apologized and suggested that they had my camera back again. I told Leica that I was a bit reluctant to just send the camera back without knowing what would be done to it, and how long time it would take. They told me to send some DNGs that showed the problem, and they would find a swift solution – which I did. > After a couple of days I got a mail by accident from Leica. It was internal communication between my contact and a technician. In the mail I was characterized as being very “unzufrieden” which I actually don’t think was quite right. I had only pointed out the problems as described in an objective way. Internal mails ending up at the customer should really not happen. This is a big mistake in my eyes. > After some additional waiting time I contacted Leica to hear their conclusions, and after some more time I got the message that they needed to have the camera back to overhaul the sensor and evaluate if it needed to be changed. That was actually what they should have done when they got the camera in the first place, and they had already stated that the sensor was OK and cleaned anyway. > I contacted Leica and told them that I could not send in the camera right now because I needed it for a field trip, so I would dry clean the sensor myself to remove the dust, and then send in the camera at a later stage for the other problems. I asked if they could provide me with a device and a method for blowing the dust off. > After some more time I got a mail from a Danish agent that had not been in contact before. They told me that they heard I had problems with dust on the sensor and suggested that I contacted a certain Dealer in Denmark who they know is a Nikon/Canon expert??! > I will now search this forum and find a method to dry clean my sensor myself, and subsequently decide further actions…I need to go shooting rather than writing. I have 15 years of experience with technical service, and to me this is a very inconsistent performance by Leica – both in terms of communication and actions. So, my question: is there any learning for Leica here – and could we give them some constructive feedback and ideas for improvement? What is your experience?

Hi all, this is my first time posting. I did a cursory search and found similar topics but not quite one with the exact problem I'm having. When I bought my M4-P used a few months ago, the slow shutter speed setting all fired a little slow, and at inconsistent rates. In particular 1 second was all over the place in terms of speed and 1/8 sec fired faster than 1/15. I read the forums and learned the escapement probably needed to be cleaned and figured I'd get around to taking to someone eventually. Well after a few months of standard use (I'm generally pretty gentle with my equipment but they get a light bump every now and then), the slow shutter speeds (1 - 1/15) all started firing at about the same rate and the "whirrr" of the escapement stopped. It was replaced with a short rattling sound. So I bought tools to remove the top plate and rangefinder to reveal the escapement. The forward most black arm of the escapement that engages the large gears just bounces back and forth (its the cause of the rattling sound) and the gears quickly spin back into place when firing the shutter, rather than slowly according to the shutter speed setting. I have zero experience with this but the hair spring seems to be in the right place. Anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem might be and how I can fix it? I'm sure its right in front of my face and I just don't know how to recognize it. I'll post photos later on when I get the chance as well. Thanks in advance Tj

OK. I am starting from that point where we all start: total ignorance. I receive my M8.2 today when FedEx delivers the little honey. I would not normally run an eBay camera by a repair facility to check it but this is special. And the seller has a 30 return window so I want a skilled tech to 1) look it over and evaluate its condition and, 2) do a CLA if needed. I will bring it up with the new lens so that the tech can check how well the lens gets along with the rangefinder. I have read on this board and in this sub-forum that two esteemed Leica techs will not open an M8/M8.2 because of "grounding issues." I have asked Wetzlar and finally Leica NJ about this. They have danced all around this and are as good at equivocation as any politician or time-share salesman. The best I could get out of them was that taking the camera to a non-Leica facility may void my warranty. They have not said that any other tech is unable to inspect, evaluate or repair the M8/M8.2. So I am going to be a guinea pig on this. I will take some pics when the camera arrives, of course, just to make sure it works. Tomorrow I will drive up to PDX and drop it off with a repair facility I have had do work in the past. They did the job right in the past on a Pentax digital. I will see what happens. I will know it worked before I brought it up. I will have the digital proof. I will also see what these fellows can do. And the tech left me a message to the effect that the M9 was pretty much an M8/M8.2 inside but with a bigger sensor. So we know he has opened up a few of them. As they used to say on TV, "Tape at Eleven."