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Found 43 results

  1. Hi, Found this lovely forum while searching for info on a Leica R4 body described as having a "small problem". It belongs to a friend who gave me the option of buying it off him cheap, in its existing state, and trying to fix it and re-sell to a collector. I have been reading up on this and trying a few things and had a couple observations and questions that I am hoping the experts in this forum can help me with. 1) When I received it, I discovered that the shutter was not just firing with a delay, it was stuck and unusable. The film advance lever was stuck as well, indicating that the shutter probably froze midway through its cycle. The mirror was down, but the DOF preview lever was "loose". 2) The battery LED would light, but there was no activity in the viewfinder, meaning no leds or anything at all. The camera seemed dead. New batteries did not change anything. 3) After a fair bit of research, I found a thread (unsure where) that suggested "smacking" the camera bottom on a bed or similar soft surface. Somewhat frustrated, I did this, and it actually worked. The shutter finished its cycle and the film advance lever was working again, AND the viewfinder leds worked. I checked the meter and it seems fine too. 4) Advance the lever (no film), press the shutter, and same exact problem. But over many tests, I discovered that in B and 100, both mechanical modes, it would sometimes fire with a big delay, and other times get completely stuck. Smacking always releases the shutter. 5) Based on many threads in this forum, I believe this problem is typically related to dirty magnetic dampers. However, I find mixed information on how to reach the magnets. There was one thread that suggested it can be reached from the bottom plate and is easy, while another suggested it is behind the dof preview lever and complicated to reach, requiring some degree of disassembly. Unfortunately, I did not find information on WHAT disassembly is required. 6) In the meantime, I have also found that in all of the electronic modes (manual operation, but shutter speed electronic), the shutter button actually never fully depresses and therefore the shutter never fires at all. It feels like a half-press only in the electronic modes. In the mechanical mode, I can clearly see and feel the shutter go much deeper and actuate something. So my questions: 1) Is the shutter button behaving normally? Is there something else I am missing, as to why the shutter button won't fully depress in electronic mode, but works in mechanical mode? 2) If its the dampers, do I go from the bottom or the top? In any case, how do I get the top plate off and get any sort of serious disassembly done on this camera? I see one screw in the back, by the eye-piece control dial, and know that the top most screw on the mount holds the top plate down. But are those the only two screws? What else do I need to remove to get the top plate off? I am guessing the film rewind lever (on the left side, over the ISO dial) needs to come off, and the entire ISO dial mechanism probably needs to be lifted off too. What about on the right side, how do I get under the film advance lever and the shutter control? 3) Given the fact that the meter seems to work properly, I am guessing the electronics on this sample are okay (its a 156xxxx serial number). But just to be sure, if the electronics are toast, how do I know this? Any help/advice is appreciated, including an opinion on what price its worth buying at and then trying to fix it so I can keep it for myself, OR sell in working condition to a collector. A warning that it might be more valuable sold off to a collector in present condition than executing a botched repair and destroying its value completely is also taken in the right spirit. Thanks, Karthik PS - I literally went thru every single page of the English forum looking for answers. Now after posting, I see threads related to this in the German forum! Is there a way for me to search on the other language forums? Any pointers appreciated, but please understand that I did a pretty comprehensive search and processed what information I already found before making this thread
  2. Hi Guys... I recently picked up a brand new M-A and I feel the shutter release is a bit notchy. When pressing down on the shutter release, I can feel there a slight click and roughness from the shutter button interacting with the film advance. I haven't experienced this on any of my other film M cameras. I know I can just return it to the vendor but I thought I'd ask you guys here before I exchange it out. If others are like this, then I won't bother getting another unit. Thanks for your thoughts
  3. I did a search here on the Forum to see if there was any history or discussion on an interesting problem I was having with my M Monochrom 246 but found nothing. Therefore, I thought I would document my experience for the record. My issue was that the shutter was randomly misfiring, either too fast or too slow. This was producing some "unusual" results with some exposures unpredictably wildly off the mark. In my blind trust of Leica, I was a bit slow to conclude that the problem was with the camera rather than me. At first, I could not understand how such varying results could be produced in aperture-priority mode but gradually began to suspect the shutter. I took a series of shots of the same scene and the same lighting, with the same aperture, but with a manually-selected shutter speed both in "S" and "C" modes. As it turned out, the shutter speeds for each image file were all over the place with the minority at the actual set speed. Furthermore, it did not seem to matter what shutter speed was selected and, of course, it did not matter what lens was on the camera. When I wrote to Leica Camera USA describing my situation, I got an answer in pretty short order with the suggestion to do a camera Reset. This worked! The Reset function apparently is a like a o/s reboot on a computer which sadly had not occurred to me as a possible solution. Of course, all my menu-driven customizations were wiped out with the camera reverting to the factory default but that was a small price to pay to have normal shutter operation restored. Anyone else seen this?
  4. I purchased a brand new S typ 006 three weeks ago. I had my entire extended family over labor day weekend. At dinner I removed the camera from its case to take pictures. After I switched on the camera there were no warning alarms nor messages to suggest anything was wrong with the camera. When I pressed the shutter release button it made a terrible whirring sound and the mirror was locked in the midway position and after some more whirring the mirror went back down without exposing the sensor. The rear display was blank. I was unable to review previously taken pics nor view the camera menu. The display light is on but there is nothing being displayed. The top LCD shows camera settings but no error messages. I am Fedexing the camera to 1 Pearl court NJ in the morning. Does anyone have any thoughts as to what problems I might be facing. BTW I tried calling customer care USA to no avail however the gentleman who answered the phone in Germany was extremely polite and asked me to ship the camera to Allendale.I checked the warranty book that came with the camera and it mentions that Leica would send me a replacement camera should I need one. Does anyone have any experience with their loaner service ? Please Help . Warm regards Fritz
  5. Hi, I think my cherished R3 may have a shutter fault. I fitted new batteries recently intending to use the camera and gave it a check over. I haven't checked it with a film but, it appears that the shutter isn't firing correctly at 1/500 or 1/1000 speeds - all other speeds seem fine but at those top speeds the shutter fires, but you can't see any light through the shutter as you trip it. It's an odd one and not a fault I've ever seen before - just wondering if any one else has experienced this or if anyone knows if the R3 shutter can be fixed? I will contact some repairers also, and - just for certainty - run a film through it. I've had this camera since new, it was a present and has sentimental value as well as being a great SLR body, so I want to save it!
  6. I've got a Leica R7 from someone and I just noticed that sometimes when I take a photo it takes more than a second or even two!! Between the mirror up and the actual shutter release. First I thought it was random, bun then after some dry firing I noticed it happend ALWAYS when I aim the camera down at the floor for example, sometimes when I aim it straight in front horizontally.. and it has never happened yet when aiming it at the ceiling... First I thought it might be a computer lag because it has to calculate different light strengths so I tried it in manual with the lens cap on. And it was still the same: Always lagging 1-2 seconds when aiming down, sometimes lagging a bit 0-1 seconds when I aim in front and never when I aim it upwards 45º. So I'm thinking this is mechanical... Any one any thoughts had this before? Would a CLA fix this?! Thanks! EDIT: It seems to me that the rear curtain is sticking a bit or something and that that is the reason why it's not firing when tilted downwards.
  7. Hi, Can anyone tell me why two films on an M5 are partially unexposed ? On the first film, only the last two frames were exposed, and on the second film only 6 non consecutive frames out of the 36 were exposed. I have excluded reasons such as forgotten lens cap, ASA adjustment, battery problem, bad aperture/speed adjustment. It seems to me like it could be a shutter problem, but can there be another reason? Can a badly loaded film be the cause ? Does anyone have experience of this ?
  8. I first noticed that something was terrible wrong when 2/3 of my pictures turned up black. Fortunately I check the images frequently while shooting. To my shock I discovered what you see on this picture. What had happened? I have sent the camera and the two lenses that I were using to Leica awaiting the verdict. Anyone experienced similar? Helge Pedersen
  9. Sensor dust: I really like my M9P but it is a magnet for sensor dust. With the new M I can imagine it can get even worse with liveview. Any information if there is a dust-removal function? Any ideas how much we will have to deal with dust with this camera? Which brings me to my second question, how is the shutter implemented: Is there no mechanical shutter blade and the sensor is always visible? Is the shutter implemented fully via the COMSIS sensor, or will a blade shutter kick in with very short shutter speeds? According to the website of COMSIS, the sensor itself must have a shutter function as it can take several hundred images per second for the movie function.
  10. Hi All, Just got myself a Digilux 2. Went to test today...overall, pretty impressed! Question: 1. Is there a site or vendor where I can purchase a soft release button for the Digilux 2? I know other Leica models have the screw in...Can I do the same for the Digi2? 2. Also, where can I purchase a hood or square hood for the Digi2? Mahalo! SecretChord
  11. The shutter on my M8 is gone. Does anyone what Leica US will charge to replace it? Thank in advance.
  12. My Leica M8 has a loose shutter leaf. I noticed it when all of the sudden a bright white stroke of light appeared on my photos. I made the loose shutter leaf conclusion after removing the lens and looking at the shutter. A loose shutter leaf is clearly visible. I hope I can find a solution through this community. I bought it two months ago as my first Leica. I'm missing it already.
  13. Before I owned the M6, I used to have the Canonet QL 17 GIII. It was working perfectly until I stopped using it for 3 months. The shutter got stuck. When I took it to the repair shop, they asked if I have left the battery inside as the shutter/ self timer is very sticky and dry. So I'm wondering if I should remove my M6's battery when not in use to prevent shutter jam?
  14. My M8 shutter just died after just 17,000 actuations (compared to my old nikon D80 with 150,000), sent the camera to germany (cost 100 Euro there and back), got a reply from leica after 3 weeks saying it will cost me about 1,000 Euros to repair. Does this sound right to anyone ? Did anyone experience this and got the same cost ? What did you do when it did ? Thanks everyone
  15. M10 just a few months old. Shutter suddenly started clipping 70% of image at 1/4000. Also looks like it's not quite getting out of the way at 1/3000, either. Is this common? Back to the factory? Samples attached.
  16. Hi guys, After idly wondering for the past few years how to figure out the shutter count on my M Monochrome mk1, I finally did a little research. I found this excellent (i.e. very easy even for me to use) Leica app on the Leica Rumors site - https://leicarumors.com/2010/11/02/free-software-for-viewing-leica-m9-images-and-exif-data.aspx/ Dragged the most recent file I shot onto the app, and found that the shutter actuations on my camera number 36,950. Does anyone think that's a high number? I know that pro Nikon and Canon cameras are over-engineered, and their shutters are designed to exceed 250,000 but the M9/M Monochrom mk 1, I think, is not designed for that kind of high mileage. Leica were kind enough to replace my sensor last year (for free), and I just wonder how many more useful years are left on the shutter of my cherished camera. Anyway, if you've ever wondered about your shutter count, do get the app - it's incredibly simple to use. Best wishes all, Colin
  17. Hello everyone! I'm new here, nice to meet you. It's a little bit of a let down to see the M10 doesn't have a "real" BULB mode but it's limited to 125s. Similar to the Leica Q... It's also weird that the time is ISO dependent. I was wondering, why is that? The SL gets to 30min for example or the D810 can up to 1h30min and beyond i T mode. Thanks for your time, Tomas.
  18. I just developed a Delta 100 film,(using my M3 and 50mm summilux) and found a bright point in each frame at the same place. I put a light in the place of the lens towards the shutter and found a tiny hole in the cloth of the shutter. Is it possible to close this tiny hole without changing all the cloth? Thank you, Edgard
  19. I have a general question, that I guess will apply to CL, TL and others. I know from experience on the CL that the mechanical shutter produces far better images than the elecronic shutter (there is a demonstrable banding issue indoors, and generally mechanical just 'looks' better). This view seems to be supported by many other posts. However, I'd simply welcome an explanation of 'why' this is the case. In a digital camera, what advantage does the mechanical shutter provide? I'm just intrigued. Many thanks.
  20. I have just got my leica m6. part of the shutter curtains got some dots and wonder if it is ok? the light meter works and camera is in good condition. i have not tried to develop any pics yet, so not sure if its leaking any light or working as it should. does anybody know what this dots are and would you return it?
  21. First sample is at 1/125 ss. Notice the white stripe near the right edge. It looks pretty much the same at 1/250 and 1/500, however, at 1/60 it's gone. I haven't seen the results at 1/60, but that's what I've been told. Last sample is at 1/1000 and things are much worse there. I am going to make more tests, but what do you think it can be? Shutter? A body was stored without lens attached to it and without front cap covering the mount, so shutter was basically uncovered. However, I couldn't find any obvious signs of damage on shutter. And if it's a shutter problem, repair would probably cost more then a camera itself, right?
  22. Hello- I just got my M4-2 back from a repair service for this light leak/shutter issue - a band across the top. I got my first roll back, and 95% of the frames didn't have it - but the last few frames did. None of the frames with my 35mm Summicron had it, only the last few with a 50mm Canon 1.4 LTM with an adapter. Is there any chance this is a lens/adapter issue, or is the shutter still the culprit? Band happend when shot into the direct sun at 1000th, sun behind be at 100th; and also in muted indoor light around 250th. Cheers
  23. I am very pleased to say that my M9 returned home today after being with Leica since September for the removal of an SD card label (Fuji 16gb card) jammed in the shutter, and for a sensor clean and service. It came as a surprise as they had bot notified me it was on its way, but they appear to have done a great job, and sent it back in its own box by UPS. Now to tackle Fuji about the SD card, who seemed to be pretty disinterested when I spoke to them on phone. Gerry
  24. Hello there, I have decided to start a topic on jammed shutter issue of Leica film cameras. I experienced this issue while taking photos at the Shard. My camera had been loaded with Adox CMS 20 II, the microfilm had the highest resolving power. The first fifteen frames were beautiful to enjoy the view. Yet after 16th frame, the camera was jammed. Since I tried to force its advance lever, it was totally broken. One wondering what was happened may look at the result here. I sent my camera to Wetzlar via Leica Store Mayfair. After eight weeks, it came back to London in a repaired condition under warranty. Recently, I have heard similar experiences to mine. Some of them is not related to choose Adox's films, since they have occurred while using Ilford's HP5+, and so on. In order to build a guide for one who could experience the same, may you share your experiences on jammed shutter, or advance lever stuck?
  25. Hi all, my reasonably new M9 has been giving me a message: ***************** Attention Shutter Fault ***************** which I can reset and keep on working by turning the camera off then back on. It happens regularly, at the beginning of a shoot or after being powered off for a while. The image captured does not save when this message appears, but all others after the "reboot" do. the camera has the latest firmware update (which I loaded to fix to fix the issue but to no avail.) Its a pain and I have dropped off the body to the Leica service agent here in Australia. The camera only has about 3,000 actuations. Is this a known fault? If so, is the necessary fix (shutter replacement?) going to mean the sensor focus point (which I have had done at great expense) need to be reset? Thanks, Mark
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