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Showing results for tags 'lens'.
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I must admit that since acquiring it several years ago, I do not much go to my Noctilux 50mm f/.95. My biggest disappointment is that while I really want to use it for portraiture, the minimum focusing distance is so far that I am unable to fill the screen with my subject. Instead, I must back away significantly and then crop. So, before I consider selling the beast, I thought that maybe forum members could post their favorite .95 images to persuade me otherwise. I'll start with a photo from the .95 that I am happy with. Happy New Year! Image: Copyright 2020 Gordon Ownby
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I have the 12586 lens hood for the 50mm f1.4 pre-asph lens. The unit unscrews to accept filters (I assume). What series size filters do I need and how are they held in place? I understand that I need to use a special slim 43mm filter if I want to hood to fit, but I'd rather just use drop in filters if that is possible. Why else would the hood unscrew into two parts otherwise? Thanks LarryK
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Curious as to if this is lens haze or not . Have not noticed anything in the photographs . Thanks
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Hi there. Couple of days ago I decided to try some LTM glass on my Leica MP and bought a new Fotodiox 50/75 adapter. While it worked perfectly I was surprised and mostly heart broken to see that the mid line of the lens mount had been scratched on my beloved camera which I saved for such a long time to buy. The scratch is superficial as far as I can see and on the 4,5,6 and 7 o'clock directions (The photo which I share on here doesn't do them justice. They are more visible than what looks like here). I didn't have time to develop my film so I cannot say if it damaged the mount on funtional level. But I want to learn your experiences with similar situations if you had any. I read that these things can happen even when you use native lenses on cameras but as far as I know for the last 9 months my Voigtlander 35mm f/2 Ultron didn't damage or let alone scratch the lens mount on my MP. I reattached my Voigtlander after experiencing this situation and shooting another roll of film with it to see if there is any problem. Is there a possibility that I damaged my camera functionally? Can my Voigtlander be attached to the lens mount securely and without further damage either to the lens mount or the lens itself? What are you thoughts on Fotodiox adapters? The adapter that I bought seems that it is made of a material that is not similar to the material that Leica uses on its mount. I would be grateful to read your thoughts. Thanks in advance.
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Hi there Can anybody please explain what these numbers mean on the rear coma adjustment ring on Miyazaki lens Specifically what happens on these?: -- infinity -- 5 -- 3 -- 2 -- 1 Thank you in advance!
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I'm going to buy a zoom. I am not sure whether to take a used 90-280 SL LEICA or the new PANASONIC 70.200 F2.8. Has anyone had the opportunity to try them both and make some difference? thank you
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My Tele Elmarit M 90 shows these marks when inspecting under a certain angle. It looks like dried water behind the front-element of the lens. It does not show in photos but still it concerns me. Is this serviceable? Have you ever seen something like this?
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I found this Carl Zeiss Jena lens for Leica SM (M39) at a flea market. This is what I could find about it: The Herar should be cheaper opportunity to the Carl Zeiss Biogon. It was originally produced for the Contax mount. The lens was produced around 500-1000 times. The one i found appears to be a prototype/sample for the Leica screw mount M39. It has a connection for the range finder and the aperture can be controlled with the front ring of the lens. It was produced before 1939. I hope I got everything right. My two questions: Are the infos are all right (age, Version etc.) and since inform own a Leica with drew Mount I want to sell it. What is the right price? (I only found two offers online both around 3000usd, is it really worth that much?) I also read that one was sold at a Auction at Christies in 1992. I’m very thankful for any held or answer ✌🏻
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I mostly just want to gripe here. I've been trying for a couple of months to find a vaguely period-correct collapsible 50mm Summicron for a IIIg. Twice so far I've actually bought one, for hundreds of dollars, once from a reputable shop and once from someone on Reddit. Both Summicrons were inoperable, and in the same way - disassembled by an amateur and put back together I assume with one or more elements reversed or in the wrong order. No sharp image at any distance, just a hazy swirling blur from infinity to up close. I haven't taken a Summicron apart, but I'm wondering if this is a particularly easy thing to get wrong? In any case I assume even if it were reassembled in the right order and orientation it'd need major recalibration than I'd have no way to accomplish. The most recent one also had the aperture ring installed wrong, rotated 90 degrees from correct. It's just disappointing to see that sellers apparently don't even bother slapping a lens on a digital body and taking a quick snapshot to see if it's even functional at all. It's kind of a dreamy effect but this is not the "Leica Glow" I was hoping for! 🤣
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Hi All, I put the Voigtlander 35mm f1.4 Classic on my SL2. It is not a recognized lens, so I chose the Summilux M1:1.4/35 ASPH. 11873 lens profile. Everything works great except the Aperture setting recorded on the shot does not match the aperture setting that I used on the Lens. I have also tried the 2 other M 35mm lens profiles in the menu with different but still incorrect Aperture recorded in the shot. Can someone share with me how to capture the right Aperture used? Do I need to create a custom lens profile? And if so, how do I do that? Thanks much for your help. -patrick. -
Hi everyone, I just purchased my first cinema style lens for the SL2-S and have just done a quick review and first impressions about it here I know some users have wondered how non-Leica lenses perform on this body, so I thought this could add to the literature. I have to say that this lens has been a pleasure to use and edit from– the wide angle is insanely fun to use! However, and I guess I don't really touch on this in the video, I don't think this is a normal walk-around lens like most Leica lenses are intended for. Even the bigger SL lenses can seem normal to walk around with. Because of the gears and almost intimidating appearance, I don't believe this fun wide-angle would be all that fun to roam the streets with. This all being said, I can see this being a fun option for small productions and wedding/event use! Sidenote– You may also notice some wobbling/warping on the sides of the video images, and I believe this is because the SL2-S currently does not properly accommodate for a 20mm focal length with IBIS. Throughout this video I used the 21mm option, so the weird warping becomes apparent when moving a lot Cheers
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Hi, i like to rent a lens for a portrait project that i have in mind. I would like to take 3/4 length portrait shots with the person holding a plate of food in their hands. Emphasizing the person and the food at the sam time. Also I would like to keep the person separated from the back ground and most likely would use a white wall or natural background color. What focal length would you recommend. I see that my choices are 50mm, 75mm and 90mm. I should have ample space to set the shot up and i am using Leica M240. Thank you for your advise.
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I am experiencing an unfortunate problem with my APO-Summicron 90mm. After a brief portrait session at the office, I left the lens at the camera, over a desk. I almost always use it wide open and occasionally at f/5.6, but this time I went for f/16. When I returned to put it back to the leather case I noticed that the aperture ring was totally loose. It’s now spinning 360 degrees and the aperture blades don’t move at all. I always felt that the ring was too soft for my taste. I’d prefer it to be stiffer. But I never felt that there was a problem. In fact, the lens is still in very good shape and it never gets any rough using. I live in Brazil and I was just planning to take it for a trip do Portugal in about 45 days. I keep my equipment under an insurance that covers for damage. But if this is something relatively easy/cheap/quick to repair, I would prefer not to call the insurance company. Did any of you guys experienced something like this? Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks!
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Hi, I love my 35 Cron and until now it has been the only lens that I have used on my M10. However, I would like to add a 50 to my bag. The size of the summarit is a strong attraction but I really like my 35 Cron and the images that I manage to get from it so could be tempted to find the extra cash. Would anyone like to share their views/experiences regarding each of these lenses. kindest regards, Bunza
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First of all, say hi to all the members here as I'm a new coming. Recently I've got a summicron 35 f/2 ASPH (11882) lens, when using it with my M240, I found sometimes it can produce very scary color for the very vivid part of the image, especially for magenta. Please check the attach files. The flowers seems to be a mess and the color looks far more saturation than the real scenery saw by eyes. Has anyone also encountered similar issues? What is related to? The lens or the camera body? Or I didn't get it on focus but I also tried to close the aperture the issue still exists. I tried to fix it in lightroom, it can become better and still very annoying. It also seems has something to do with white balance.
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Although the pro/ con discussion has been beaten to death in numerous forums, I feel obliged to urge my fellow Leicaists: 1. Use filters, use filters, use filters! 2. Better still: close hip bag properly 40 years of accident free photography passed by in an instant... M7 & Cron 50 V with Leica UV filter after full drop on asphalt. Body and lens elements seem to be miraculously undamaged (besides minor mark on retractable hood). Focusing is butter smooth and aperture clicks softly (lens and camera visited Wetzlar half a year ago for a full CLA). I still have to find a way to remove the filter, though, which seems cold-welded to the lens thread... Kind regards Mathias
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I have an aged lens that has a loose integrated sliding hood, since it's fitted outside of the lens group/barrel, it might not need an expert to do it. Does anyone know how a DIY trick?
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Hello I currently have a Leica TL2 using a adaptor for a M mount lens . I want to get a auto focus lens that will work with the TL2, I just don’t want to spend 1,500.00+ At the moment. Do I have any options ?
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Hi Long story, but I somehow wound up with a 35mm 1.4 ASPH Summilux-M (the 11 874 version) and a 35mm 1.4 ASPH Summilux-M (the 11 663 version). The 11874 was my favorite lens, but now I prefer the 11663. I don't need the money right now, and it's not really taking up appreciable space in my apartment, but it seems to be selling for $4000 or so on auction - which is actually more than I paid for it back in the 90's. Is the general consensus that used lens prices will continue to increase ? Or should I sell it now while I can ? Thanks !
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HI, what's the best lens mount adapter for Leica M lens to Sony E.MONT that have you tried ? Thanks a lot.
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Hi, I’m looking at the voigtlander 21mm color scopar f4 in m mount. Would this lens focus on my m4-p using the rangefinder patch or would it be purely guesswork to focus? Also, as it’s 21mm my framelines only go to 28 mm so would I just use the 28mm framelines and have extra width in my shots? thanks, Dan
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I have a trip planned for January 2020 to the Azores and Lisbon. I plan on bringing my M240 with 35 Cron, and 28 Ultron VM. I want to do some landscape and seascape images and would like to get a wide or ultra wide angle lens. I'm looking for suggestions or user experience on what is available. Right now my top choices are the Voigtlander 12mm f5.6 (which i can use on my Xpro2 as well) or Voigtlander 15mm f4.5 which will be cheaper but won't be useful on my crop sensor (I already have that focal length covered). My other option would be the Leica 21mm f3.4 SEM... which I hear is an excellent lens but would require me to sell some gear fast to afford it. Anyone have any other suggestions or can give me insight on their experience with the choices i have listed?
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Hi everyone, I was wondering if anyone has used the Sonnar 50mm f1.5 on a M film body and can tell me if the focus shift is noticeable? I used to have this lens and loved it's small size and bokeh, but the focus shift on my digital M was too much so I decided to sell it. Thanks in advance!
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What is the best way to store lens' to avoid fungus?i) In a sealed plastic box with silica gel?ii) In a cardboard box where the air can circulate?iii) In a daylight area?The area in question is not damp and does not suffer any extreme of temperature just a normal UK house environment.I am asking because a previous lens from another top quality lens brand ( 70-300 zoom bought from new) was left in my camera bag and fungus started to appear, it was never used in the rain and was stored at normal room temperature Thanks
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The focus post is a pain. It unscrews for removal which means one should be able to screw in a focus tab. I asked Gandy at Cameraquest who suggested someone could 3D print one. Does anyone here have expertise with doing so?
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