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  1. Hallo Zusammen, Ich hoffe, dass ich mich hier als Neuling mit seinem ersten Beitrag nicht gleich blamiere. Ich habe heute, bei einem Händler, ein gebrauchtes 90er Summicron aus den 60ern erstanden. eigentlich kaufe ich keine gebrauchten Objektive aber da dieses bei einem Händler stand, habe ich mir das Glas vor Ort leider nicht gut genug angeschaut. Zu Hause habe ich das gute Stück auf eine beleuchtete Unterfläche gestellt und mit einer Lupe etwas genauer inspiziert. Ich werde mal ein Foto anhängen, da ich mir sicher bin, dass sich hier in diesem Forum reichlich Leute befinden, die mir sagen können ob es sich um einen Pilzbefall handelt, oder ob es doch nur ein Einschluss von Schmutzpartikeln ist. Wenn man das Bild etwas vergrößert, sehen die drei Flecken (zumindest für mich) nicht nach Schmutz, sondern nach einem Fungus aus. Ich würde mich freuen, wenn mir da Jemand Gewissheit oder Beruhigung geben könnte. Gruß H.Berger
  2. Hi everyone, I own a Summicron 50mm V2 DR and Type 1. I know the lens head should be detachable from the focusing mechanism in order to mount on bellows. This works correctly on the Type 1, but on the DR, when I turn the lens head, only the section housing the front elements rotates, thus revealing the aperture blades inside once removed, instead of detaching all elements in one block. I could try bypassing this section by rotating the aperture ring, but this feels unsafe as rotating the ring with force might damage the blades inside. I hope I've explained this clearly enough - not sure if anyone has a solution? I'm trying to remove the lens head on both lenses in order to swap them out, since the DR optics are cleaner but I prefer the size of the Type 1. (P.S. I'm not the type to attempt lens repair/cleaning myself, but this is a function built into the lens by Leica) Thanks in advance
  3. In a recent interview in Austrian Der Standard Peter Karbe was asked which camera and lens would be his preferred choice. The answer was "not an easy one", but it would be M11 and APO-Summicron 35. "STANDARD: One last question: If you had to choose a combo, what would be your camera and your lens of choice? Karbe: The M11 and APO-Summicron 35mm. But that's one of those questions... which of your children do you like best? If I had to choose, I would use this combination." Here is the link to the full (unlocked) Peter Karbe Der Standard interview (in German) by Mickey Manakas, where he speaks about the compromise in building the Noctilux f/0.95 and its evident flaws, the "Leica Look" myth, his views on smartphone photography, his pride in personally calculating the optical formula for Summilux 50 ASPH and many other cool topics: https://www.derstandard.at/story/2000144541043/leitender-optikexperte-bei-leica-wir-waren-vorreiter-bei-der-digitalisierung
  4. https://www.tumblr.com/tokyo-camera-style/735642699701600256/totem-pole-photo-gallery-shinjuku-a-custom Repaint by Shueido. (Photo: Screenshot)
  5. Hallo zusammen, da hier und da schon einmal nach dem Puts-Kolumnen für die R-Objekive gefragt wird, möchte ich diese hier zusammenhängend veröffentlichen. Die Kolumnen wurden damals bei Leica frei veröffentlicht, sind jedoch heute nicht mehr verfügbar. Es handelt sich hier um insgesamt 17 .pdf Dateien: Einleitung Kapitel 1: 50 mm und 60 mm Objektive Kapitel 2: 80 mm und 100 mm Objektive Kapitel 3: 180 mm und 280 mm Objektive Kapitel 4: 28 mm und 35 mm Objektive Kapitel 5: 19 mm bis 24 mm Objektive Kapitel 6: 15 mm Objektiv LEICA ELMARIT-R 1:2,8/15 mm Kapitel 7: 28-90 mm Objektiv LEICA VARIO-ELMARIT-R 1:2.8-4.5/28-90 mm ASPH Kapitel 8: 28 mm Objektiv LEICA PC-SUPER-ANGULON-R 1:2,8/28 mm Kapitel 9: 180 mm Objektiv Kapitel 10: LEICA APO-TELYT-R MODULSYSTEM Kapitel 11: LEICA VARIO-ELMAR-R 1:3,5-4/21-35 mm ASPH. Kapitel 12: LEICA VARIO-ELMAR-R 1:4/35-70 mm Kapitel 13: LEICA VARIO-APO-ELMARIT-R 1:2,8/70-180 mm Kapitel 14: LEICA VARIO-ELMAR-R 1:4/80-200 mm Kapitel 15: LEICA VARIO-ELMAR-R 1:4,2/105-280 mm Schlusswort Gesamte Broschüre (PDF / komprimiert) Gruß Thomas
  6. With the publication of the Leica APO-Summicron-SL 1: 2/75 ASPH., I can show first experiences I was there in advance to try before and am heavily inspired what Leica has launched in again. My first impression can be read here. https://norbertwindecker.blogspot.de/2018/01/erfahrungsbericht-test-review-leica-apo.html
  7. I've recently acquired a very cheap 35mm Summicron v4 M in very good shape. However, the front and back elements are filled with dust (or fungus). The edges don't have any obvious fungus or anything. The are only specs here and there, but mostly in the center of the elements. What do you guys think? Is it dust or fungus? Here are some pictures:
  8. We've all heard of that college student who bought an M2 for 5$ in a thift shop. I've never got such a deal but I've managed to get Leica equipment for low prices in the past. Such as a very clean M2 that I got in an eBay auction for 600$CAD. The shutter speed had to be adjusted, and the vulcanite had to be replaced. Other than that, it is in excellent condition. I later got an M262, which I also bought on eBay, for about 3500$CAD. The sensor was filled with dust and oil spots, and the focusing mechanism had to be lubricated two days after I recieved it. (Those problems where not specified by the seller) It looked like new back then, but after about six months of use, I've got some paint removed on the corners and a cut in the faux leather. It has been faithfull ever since. Then, yesterday, I looked for a replacement for my 35mm ZM 2.8 on the internet and ended up looking for pre-ASPH summicrons. I then stumbled uppon a 35mm Summicron on keh.com for 1080$USD. No picture of the actual lens was shown and generic pictures of a Type 4 where shown instead. It was listed as "UG" (ugly). Giving this extremely low price and the 180 day warranty offered by keh, I jumped on it. (I'll keep you guys updated on this purchase.) What are the good deals you guys managed to get on Leica equipment?
  9. Met with a friend a few weeks ago and brought my Summicron-R 90mm f/2 along. Unfortunately, I only used the Canon 85L and the Nikkor 58G after the first few shots with the Leitz, even though they turned out to be amazing.. I always process both colour and monochrome versions when I shoot portraits. Found that most of my students prefer colour whereas I myself like the monochromes better. Meet Kathi, a former student of mine and one of my favourite models She's simply amazing. The streets around us were buzzing with tourists and people staring at us. Some came over asking what we were doing. An older man even apporached me to tell me that I should swap to Sony to get a smaller, lighter camera. Then one man (in his sixties) told me that it wasn't hard to get good pictures of such a pretty girl. Through all that, Kathi remained perfectly relaxed and had loads of fun. (Click on the images to head to my flickr stream if you want to see some more of the pics we shot that day.) I really love the 90mm and am keeping my Canon 1Ds mainly so that I can keep shooting portraits with it
  10. Hi everybody, I'm texting cause I need your help and wisdom. I've noticed that on my Summicron 35mm f2 (made Canada) when I turn the focus ring to the closest distance possible the ring doesn't stop exactly at 0,7m but goes beyond, while instead when turned to the farther distance possible it perfectly stops at infinte symbol. I wonder if this could affect the focusing. Is it normal and common on every Cron? Thanks to all of those who will help me )
  11. Hello, I recently published my M2 user experience in my blog using Summaron35 f2. 8 and Summicron35 version 4.All were taken with Kodak Portra400. The M2 with these 2 lens are amazing. ( I got the good deal on Summicron35 during my trip in Munich, so I carried two 35mm lens😋. Hope you guys enjoy the picture and have fun shooting. I really love my M2 https://goo.gl/G5T1TR
  12. OK, I'll admit it I'm a bit nutty for Summicrons. I have the 35mm ASPH the 50mm classic and the recently I found a 40mm (from the CL) for a measly $450 on fleabay. OK you say, why? You have two perfectly good lenses that actually have matching frame lines on your M10. There are two very good reasons I can come up with, the first is size. The lens is downright diminutive. It takes the M10 from small mirrorless to large point and shoot. It's now suitable for stuffing in a Billingham Aeva 5 pouch and throwing on a belt even for casual nights out or chasing the kids around the playground. Number 2 is it's actually a spectacular little lens with all the character and sharpness you could ever ask for. I'm actually finding it perfect for environmental portraiture and general street pics. It's also well suited to making multiple image panorama stitches with it's natural perspective. More than anything though it's just a pretty lens and it can do about 80% of the job of both a 35mm and a 50mm as well as have it's own character. OK so how do you frame it? Honestly it's not hard, the 50mm frame lines come up with it attached and I just imagine the frame is just outside those lines and I'm pretty close. For those instances where precise framing is necessary I always have live view. lastly I have great little Minolta double asphere close up diopter that I've adapted and this makes the little 40mm perfect for certain macro shots (especially watches and camera gear).
  13. I'm currently owning 50 mm Summicron and thinking about to move to 35 mm focal length. What is the best option to sell used lens? Any advices are welcome.
  14. Hi, I've got the cron 35mm f/2 ASPH, the new version. I got the square black lens hood that came along with it in the box. However, I would love to get a silver one instead just like the Summilux got. I have no idea if it exists or not since I haven't found a place to buy one, but I've seen photos of the lens with a silver square lens hood. Are they real or just mockup photos? Also on Leicas own site: IF it exists, where can I order it?
  15. Hi, das ist mein erster Beitrag hier im Forum, denn ich habe seit kurzem eine Leica M3 meines Großvaters. Eines der Objektive ist das 50mm Summicron 1:2. Hier habe ich ein Problem. Die schärfe - Einstellung lässt sich etwas schwer drehen und beim Drehen in die jeweils andere Richtung hat das Schärfenrad ein ziemliches Spiel. Allgemein haben alle einzelnen Teile zu einander etwas Spiel. Kennt jemand das Problem? Wie viel kostet eine Generalüberholung des Objektivs und wo könnte man diese vornehmen lassen? Danke Sven
  16. Hannes Albert

    India B/W

    I went to india to shoot the street life of this country. Only a Leica M6, a Summicron 50mm 2.0F and 30 rolls of Kodak TriX 400 were with me. for better resolution see my website Hannes Albert feel free to comment! i will be happy to hear some opinions of you! regards H.Albert ps. those pictures are hand-made b/w-prints. my scanner, i have to say, is not the best!
  17. While I'm pretty much locked into Canon gear for my trackside work (long glass, high frame rate etc.), I continually push myself to find ways of working the M9 into my weekend work flow. Here are a couple of scene setters:
  18. Im currently shooting the M (typ 240) with the 50mm Summilux ASPH and love it but im also wanting a Leica 35 to replace my voigtlander 35mm 2.5 I have been looking at the latest Summicron and Summilux 35's but unsure which to go with!.. any advice? (Id be using it for both my personal work; street shooting + portraits and also for commercially shooting weddings) Dan
  19. It was a rainy day in Taipei, but I still took out my M8 and Summicron 35 IV to shoot. Flickr 上 Jimmy. Yang 的 Leica M8 Summicron 35-1188255 Flickr 上 Jimmy. Yang 的 Leica M8 Summicron 35-1188254 Flickr 上 Jimmy. Yang 的 Nespresso pop up Flickr 上 Jimmy. Yang 的 Leica M8 Summicron 35-1188239
  20. Hey everyone, I just recently got hold of this beautiful 35 summicron ASPH although i have a slight issue... The front ring where you clip the hood onto and screw additional filters into spins freely around, this doesn't not seem to be effecting any of the glass elements. I've read a few things of people saying they had the same problem and it's just something inside that needs tightening, screws or something? I'm normally pretty competent when it comes to fixing things but this is something i don't feel comfortable doing this as i don't want to risk it. Has anyone else had the same issue? Thanks. (i can include diagrams if need be)
  21. A Stroll To The Office by michael_toye, on Flickr
  22. I have been troubled by my 35cron ASPH and Monochrom. I have discussed about the issue in another thread, but here is a related question I wonder about. Even with very fast lenses, if you - push the focus ring to the very end and focus at infinity - the subject is very far away, eg 1 km shouldn't the subject be at least reasonably focused and sharp, even though the aperture used is f2 or even f0.95, and it is the maximum aperture? Attached is a comparison, 1:1 crop, left is f2 and right is f4. Those structures are at least 1 km away. Note that (mentioned in another thread) in close focusing tests I found this 35cron frontfocuses at least by 1.5cm. I have tried to look for some answer around, reading about hyperfocal distance, infinity, and used some depth of field calculator. From one calculator, with 35mm at f2 and subject distance 1km, DoP near limit should be 20m, far limit infinity, total infinite, hyperfocal distance 20.5m, circle of confusion 0.03mm. I have yet to try to focus my N095 at infinity at f0.95. But based on all the information I have read, I would think this 35cron of mine still has issue, and infinity should really be infinity, which does not need smaller aperture to pull out more focus/sharpness. Or then can a mis-alignment with the rangefinder body affect the inifnity focusing and sharpness in this case? Or can overexposure also affect the result anyhow?
  23. Hi guys, I own an M9 and a 28 cron and I absolutely love the images I am getting from this combo. However lately, I came across a 50 Pre-ASPH Lux on one of the websites for £1300 so I am very tempted to swap my Cron for the pre-asph lux to have a try particularly the focal length. (50 lux asph would be ideal but thats out of budget!) So, I have been searching around the forums and obviously cant find any direct comparison since they are not the same focal length to start with anyway. So I was wondering, how much sharper the Cron will be compared to the 50mm Pre-ASPH.( I am assuming it is sharper) Is it noticeable in daily photography?? If all I shoot is street and portraits normally viewed on iPad, MacbookPro and the max size I develop is around 5R. When I look back at photos that I deemed as 'keepers' when I was using Cron, most of them were taken at f2 or max f2.8. I feel as if that aperture gives me that magical image with perfect seperation but due to 28mm, Im always forced to take a more environmental approach. I am here to look for some advice and opinions and thank you all for your precious time. p.s. the online dealer is willing to make a direct swap for a 28Cron (very good cond) to a 50pre-asph lux (near mint). Is that an okay deal? how would you view the deal? Many thanks
  24. All, I'm using a Summicron 50mm Type IV or 1997 on a Leica M3. Absolutely no problem as per this 100% crop of a scan : However, mounting the same lens on a Sony 7R, I have chromatic aberration ! Has anyone ever had this problem before ? Does anyone have explanations to this ? Thanks, Igor
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