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PLZ

  1. Hi everyone, I´ve been looking for a good fit L-bracket for the SL2 lately and tried some options. I'd thought I´d share my findings with some pictures (below) to maybe help anyone out who's looking for an L-bracket for the SL2. The options I´ve tried are: Kirk ULB-1 3 Legged Thing Ellie Markins PV 100 & LV 170 For me personally I decided that the Markins is the best fit. It is also the lightest and generally has the smallest footprint thanks to the fact that it is possible to have the bracket part adjusted for a snug fit to the side of the camera. Obviously one cannot access any of the ports with the bracket mounted like that, but I don't usually need to. Obviously the Markins is also easily adjusted to extend the bracket part so that the ports are accessible. The Kirk comes in second for me, what I don't like about it on the SL2 is that the bottom main screw for the tripod socket is only adjustable "sideways" and the preset positions are not a good fit for the SL2´s tripod screw that is relatively far towards the back of the camera. Also the bracket part is not adjustable in distance to the body. However, with it mounted it is possible to still easily open the bottom port flap to access the USB-C port for example for charging. The 3 Legged Thing gave me a "gimmicky" impression. It felt a bit wobbly, probably because of the gap in the bracket part (that obviously also has advantages for cable management, I don't need this though). It also comes fairly close to the strap lugs and could cause issues when using a strap. Hope this helps anyone looking for an L-Bracket for their SL2. On a side note, I'm not a big fan of the RRS way of designing brackets for the SL range. They make an already large camera even larger and are also heavier than the other options. However, once they come out with their SL2 version I´ll probably have a second look... I also have some more pictures with different perspectives, let me know if you're interested (didn't want to clutter the thread too much)😀
  2. This may seem a bit obvious, but after having followed a general principle of having a 2 minute auto power off, and being left with 50% power after a day's walking and maybe 60 images, I decided to switch to a 10 second auto power off, and I'm finding I still have a full bar indicated after the same kind of use. If you've been unhappy with battery-life, I'd recommend playing with the power-off settings and seeing what improvements you can make. For information, I'm not experiencing significant start up delays either. Just touch the shutter button and everything's good to go pretty well immediately.
  3. Alphagvrd has a new selection of 3M vinyl adhesive camera skins for the M11, MP, Q2 and SL2. These skins will dress up your camera and provide a level of abrasion protection. The installation video on Alphagvrd's website makes the process look fairly easy - have a look: https://leicarumors.com/2022/09/28/new-leica-mp-camera-skins-now-available-coupon-code-included.aspx/
  4. (SL-2 with M42 adapted Voigtländer APO Lanthar Macro 125mm SL) (greengage/ wasp)
  5. Hello, I am shooting Surf tomorrow and was thinking about recording some videos as well, the matter being I’ve never done it before. So I am looking for a crash course, simple, straight to the point, couldn’t find anything on YouTube… also I read the manual but can’t figure out why I can’t focus where I would want to, nor in MF or AF. I am using a Sigma 150-600, when I turned the focus ring it just magnified the image. Thank you in advance
  6. Moin in die Runde, wer kann mir erklären, wie das bei der SL2 jetzt mit den Geo-Daten funktioniert? Das bei der SL ein kleiner Mangelpunkt existierte ist bekannt und in der Vergangenheit hier im Forum abgehandelt worden. Leica hat daraus gelernt und bei der SL2 den GPS gar nicht mehr integriert, damit schon einmal "mein Generve" abgestellt. Habe ich verstanden und ist auch soweit ok. Aber wie funktioniert das jetzt für Outdoor-Nutzer in der Praxis mit der SL2. Habe ich das richtig verstanden: Ein Handy mit GPS immer so dabei haben, dass es immer GPS-Empfang hat, also nicht tief im Rucksack Immer eine WLAN oder BT Verbindung mit der SL2 halten (lutscht bei beiden Geräten ordentlich Akku meine ich) Werden die Daten nur bei Auslösen mit dem Handy übernommen, oder auch beim Auslösen mit der SL2? Oder werden die Daten nur beim Übertragen von der SL2 auf das Handy, mittels Leica-App übernommen, wenn ich nicht Übertragen möchte, sind keine Daten in den DNGs oder JPGs? Bei DNG-Übertragung mittels Leica-App muss man das jährliche Abo für knapp 60.- abschließen, finde ich auch eher beschämend. Wer hat das mit der SL2 schon gemacht und kann mich "entdummen"? Viele Grüße Buggi
  7. Ich ärgere mich jedes mal darüber, dass ich beim Hineinzoomen in ein gerade geschossenes Foto immer irgendwo im Bild lande und nicht an der Stelle wo der Fokus zuvor beim Fotografieren festgelegt wurde. Was soll diese Sucherei? Wenn ich bei einem Porträt auf die Augen fokussiere, will ich bei der Bildkontrolle nicht irgendwo am Hals etc. landen, sondern genau auf den Augen. Bei anderen Marken wie z.B. Nikon klappt das immer! Ich habe vor Monaten schon einmal einen Verbesserungsvorschlag an Leica gesendet, der aber bisher nicht erhört wurde. Stört das niemanden von euch? Oder habe ich eine Funktion an meiner SL2 übersehen?
  8. After shooting for a few minutes (or after a certain number of shots), the EVF displays a message that “burst shooting or recording in 4K is not available” (or something similar to that). Even though I am using a fresh battery, completely charged, the battery level quickly goes to the 50-75% range. I have the camera (SL2) set to shoot in high burst mode and I may get about 50 or so shots before this message is displayed. If you can only get 50 or so shots on high burst mode, this makes the battery/camera very limited if you need these high burst rates. Since I am new to Leica, I guess I have something set wrong. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  9. Hi, I shoot a lot of commercials.I bought sl2 this time.An incident occurred during the first commercial shoot using sl2.The picture came in well on the capturer one, and there was no problem taking it.Then, at some point, the camera went completely out of order.Touch screens are not available and power buttons are not available.If a stop occurs, the battery must be forcibly removed.And when we film again, things go well, and at some point, af stutters.It stops again.This phenomenon continued to occur on the set.Usage environment - macbook pro, capturer one, ether cable (usb C), sd card not usedI'll connect the link. I would appreciate it if you could check and tell me the cause.Laika only says it's an SD card problem even if there's no problem at all.There's no problem, so there's nothing I can do for you.It's so frustrating. https://youtu.be/A8ubSdv87nY SL2 All functions stopped.
  10. Hey , I can't find an angle viewfinder for the SL2. How do you manage to make low or high angle picture without using your phone. Is there any DIY that you can recommend? And apart of this: is there a menu point to mirror the image of the camera? If so we could just use a mirror or something reflective as a mirror. And yes I know that you can take the picture and alter the framing. But sometimes its quit nice to see what you are doing. I am enjoying both methods but I would like to achieve the method with more control. Curious how you solve this challenge. kind regards Peter
  11. As i am very busy at these strange times there a some moments i have to have a break. At one of these rare moments last sunday i went on a early morning trip to the harz mauntains, in order to be at the top the Brocken mountain at sunrise. It happened the way it had to.... some early morning light before sunrise... followed by a foggy cold morning at -6°C. At the top wind gusts aprox. 60 km/h. In conclusion: A perfect day. On the way back down the sun broke through and more hikers catched the moment. first lights #1
  12. Hi all I've finally managed to invest into the Leica family with an SL2-S, which came with a 'M adapter T'. Does anyone know whether this is the same as the L adapter T, and will it let me use M lenses on the SL2-S in the same way? Any insight much appreciated, thanks very much
  13. Natural and Classic 709/2020 LUTs Homepage.7z
  14. Processed in Lightroom, Landscape or Color profiles, I find that boring grey skies are apt to carry a blue tinge (that becomes stronger as you approach blue hour). It certainly makes the pics look more lively, but it’s not what I remember seeing. If I set the sky to be grey using the temperature setting, the rest of the picture looks too warm. Have others noticed such quirks? Is there a solution (that doesn’t involve repainting the scene)?
  15. Good day. I am a recent convert to the SL2 system. I'm finding the Mode Selection function (P A S M) of the rear thumb wheel is problematic, particularly when shooting images in colder weather with gloves on. I've reviewed the owners documentation and spoken to my Leica store but there appears to be no option to either reprogram or disable this function. Does anyone know of a solution that will allow for reprograming or disabling this? I note that on the thumb wheel on the M11 this is a fully programable option. Many thanks for any suggestions. Best, Ken Dono
  16. In meinem fotographischen Einzugsgebiet liegt der Harz, und gestern versprach der Himmel zum wiederholten Male spannend zu werden. Anders als sonst hatte ich aber Zeit und auch die Chance noch einmal "auszurücken" (die Tour mit der Berliner Truppe um Hartmut aka @hartgraefkonnte ich im Juni ja leider nicht begleiten...) Gesagt getan, Sachen gepackt und im niedersächsischen Starkregen und Gewitter los ins Ilsetal. Als Ziel hatte ich mir in der Hoffnung von Nebelbänken den Ilse FELSEN überlegt, von wo man einen Bli ck über den bewaldeten Teil des Tales bis zum Brocken hat/ haben kann. Vom Parkplatz aus recht schnell nach links noch vor Erreichen der Ilse in den Wald war ich dann einigermaßen überrascht, dass die Wege gesperrt waren. Der Borkenkäfer und die Witterung/ Stürme haben eben doch deutlich mehr Spuren hinterlassen an den Bäumen als so manchem lieb ist. Entsprechend der doch eindeutig erhöhten Gefahr auf diesem Weg (im Hang liegen ungesicherte Stämme) hab ich mir angesichts des Wetters einen anderen (längeren) Weg gesucht um Zum Ziel zu kommen. Ich hab auch da ne ordentliche Packung Regen abbekommen, aber das ist sicher besser als Baumstämme....
  17. I'm planning a trip next year to Iceland. Mainly, I'll be shooting landscape and Northern lights Photos. I'll be taking a class and traveling with a small group of students and an instructor. I currently have an M10R and a 50 Summilux, 21 Super Elmar and a 35 Summilux. I will most likely take that as the backup since the weather can be cold and rainy. If it's nice out, I'll certainly use the M10R and especially the 21 for landscape shots. However, I am told by the instructor that I will need a weather proof body and lenses. I am planning on renting an SL2 (or maybe buying one, taking advantage of the deal with the free M adapter to use my M lenses) and renting a short, medium and longer focal length lens - 90-280, 24-70 f/2.8, etc for the beautiful landscape of Iceland - mountains, waterfalls, etc. However for the night time Northern Lights photos. I know that using a wide lens with a fast aperture is highly recommended. Since the SL2 is part of the L family, I was thinking Panasonic or Sigma for something wide and fast. First question - I've done a lot of research and and actually shot the Northern Lights when they came as far south as Michigan in 2004. I used a full frame Canon DSLR and the 16-35mm f/2.8, set it to ISO 200 with a 30 second exposure and got some pretty decent photos. However, I'd be curious what you have used in the past to capture the Northern Lights. What is the ideal L lens for shooting the Northern Lights in Iceland? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks! -Ted
  18. Some impressions from today, as i was asked to take some pics with the new Panasonic 24/50/85 lenses (all of them at min f1.8). I am testing not like others by taking pics from a wall, the lenses have to proof themselves by working with them. Of course the pics are postprcessed as all of my pics but in short conclusion you will get good working lenses with good results. There might be some differences in pixlpeeping in high end prints (and on screen at 100% view) but this is not the normal view. In this setting from todays morning i went into the cathedral, unfortunately i did not realize the beginning of the church service and it was too late to leave the tomb of henry the Lion and his wife Mathilde when the bells started to ring.... 24mm:
  19. Hi There Several people have asked me about this, and so it seemed to be worth doing it! All the files were originally shot on DNG - the sharpening and noise reduction sliders in Lightroom were all zeroed. The SL2 files were opened in Photoshop and the Image size reduced without any noise reduction help. They were then exported as 100% jpg quality 12 jpg files. I've then done an XY comparison zoomed in to approximately 100% and taken a screen shot. I'll put this on to the Review thread as well, but I thought it was worth putting it up as a separate thread. As you would expect - downsizing the SL2 images does help with the noise - but even so, at higher ISO there is still at least a stop difference. In each case the SL2-S is on the left. To me this is a little like angels dancing on the heads of pins, and it's also open to methodology questions - and anyway, why would you not use noise reduction?) First of all, the Scene: 100 ISO: 400 ISO 1600 ISO 6,400 ISO 12,500 ISO 25,000 ISO 50,000 ISO Finally 100,000 on the SL2-S and 50,000 on the SL2
  20. Hi all, first off want to thank everyone who contributes to the education and participation here, it’s a wonderful Leica community and grateful for it! Two part question: 1- who has had great experience with the SL2 for professional video? What blows my mind is that you have to use an external recorder to shoot any FPS over 29.97 in C4K Log mode for SL2, for professional use I believe it’s totally needed to shoot LOG in any of the frame rates yet the camera really only performs at its best with an external recorder, which may not want to use all the time — thus you are stuck with 29.FPS and below internally. To me shooting non LOG gives far too strong a “baked in” look. So, what external recorders are you using? Also are you adding the Leica vertical handgrip to help with power outages given how power hungry the camera is when doing video? 2- do you know if the SL2-S can do higher frame rates then 29fps in Log mode when shooting internally? many thanks for your thoughts on this! - Ben Jacks // www.Ben-jacks.com
  21. Exploring and reading about the SL2-S and looking for advice and comments please to help me choose which SL body is best for me. Have had original SL for several years - shoot with 24-90SL as well as a couple of ZEISS ZM. Amateur use only. I shoot 99% still photographs, don’t really understand much about video settings and options. I want: IBIS, improved SL2 grip/EVF/rear screen/menu system. I don’t print large so don’t ‘need 47MP. I was inclined to get an SL2 and shoot at medium res, keeping high res for specific tasks. SL2-S has me wondering.....looks like I can get all the upgrades I want and still get high res for specific tasks via multi shot. I guess the fact that the S is being described as a videographer’s camera is making me question myself. Anyone else in similar position, any comments? Thank you keeping high res for
  22. Two shots taken same day within a couple of minutes apart. One shot was taken with the SL2 single shot with SL16-35 and another with M10R with WATE. Both shots taken at ISO100 / M mode / F9 / 1/20 sec on tripod. Can you tell which shot is taken with SL2 + SL16-35mm lens? untitled-1001471 by sillbeers15 untitled-1020091 by sillbeers15
  23. I’m using an Atomos Ninja V 5” monitor driven by the SL2’s HDMI port. It displays the viewfinder image just fine, but none of the AF tracking and exposure data shown in the viewfinder. This gives me a very viewable display at low camera angles - the eyepiece no longer gets in the way, and I can actually see what I’m shooting. ** Is anyone else using an external monitor, and how do I get the AF tracking point and exposure info I see in the viewfinder to appear in the external monitor? Right now all I get is the viewfinder image. I have to place the AF tracking point in the middle of the viewfinder and put the subject there when I’m using the external monitor without knowing if I’m AF tracking or not. Thanks..
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