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Found 18 results

  1. Any suggestions whether I should send my M246 to Germany for cleaning or save time and do it locally with a reputable dealer? May be one of Leica stores? I am in NYC. I got a few small spots on the sensor over the year of use and a few thousands shots. Appears to be like wear & tear naturally in progress. I do not feel I would try cleaning on my own...
  2. I just cleaned my M240 with Aero-Clipse. Problem is there are sensor streaks left. How do I remove the sensor streaks? Thanks.
  3. Love the camera, but the manual is ofen next to useless. I can't seem to find anything about the sensor cleaning system in the Leica SL. Can any of you advise on the following: 1) How does the electronic sensor cleaning system work? Does it activate on startup/shutdown as it does on my Canon SLR, or does it have to activated manually? If the latter, where is the switch in the menu structure? 2) Is there a specific procedure to follow for manual cleaning of the sensor? 3) Is there a dust detection system similar to the one in the M cameras? Thanks.
  4. Is there some good reason why Leica is not including an automatic dust cleaning feature in their M's? It's a necessary feature on a digital camera. The lack of this vibration/sonic whatever is the deciding factor in my upcoming purchase.
  5. Hello everyone. I'm a long-time M photographer who just joined this forum. My first M was a 6, followed by an 8, then a 9 and most recently a 10. I really love the M9 and my camera is one of the early production ones and in original condition (never repaired or had anything replaced.) I've not cleaned the sensor for about 5 years and today finally took the time to do so. The images in this post have been processed in Lightroom to add as much contrast as I could to increase the visibility of specs and dust. The small images inline in this post have had "auto levels" applied, so they are extremely compressed, greatly exaggerating the particles. Link to full-res images at end of post. I started with a reference shot against a light grey wall, summicron 50 at f16 out of focus. Pretty damn dirty: First round of cleaning was with a rocket blower. This got rid of quite a lot of minor dust particles: Second round of cleaning was with a VisibleDust Arctic Butterfly statically-charged brush, which got rid of a new "class" of particles: However there were still a few "sticky" particles left. Final round was wet cleaning with swabs of Eclipse. This is a really scary step as it's easy to make mistakes, but I managed to not screw up: There's now just a single impossible-to-get-rid-of spec (even after five Eclipse swabbings), and I can live with that one. Pretty remarkable how much cleaner the sensor is after this. Strongly recommend taking an hour out of your life to clean you sensor (very carefully) :–) Full-res images (lightly compressed and processed to increase particle visibility): https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0q9tht2js82u1zs/AAB6M-98wkRWTfmDtTke-duha?dl=0 Equipent used: Giottos AA1900 Rocket Air Blaster VisibleDust Arctic Butterfly 724 VisibleDust Quasar R 5x Sensor Loupe Photosol Sensor Swab ULTRA (24mm) Photographic Solutions Eclipse fluid
  6. Hi all, I would like to hear about your practices and get some advice from you regarding the way I clean my negatives before scanning them. Most of my negatives (both color and B&W) are returned to me from the lab with visible stains of water on the film. Probably they don't do the drying correctly and on top of that the water in my city is very hard (lots of calcium and magnesium). If I scan them as is I get quite large white circles. Recently I have tried to use a glass cleaning cloth and I wash it with a bit of liquid soap. Then I use this wet cloth to clean the top surface of the film (the one that is glossy). This way I have noticed that I can remove the white deposits (water marks) on the film. I wait a few seconds for the film to dry and then scan it. Question 1: How do you guys proceed with your stained negatives? Question 2: Do you think that by proceeding the way I do I am potentially harming my negatives for the long term? Thanks for your replies. Jo
  7. Hi, Yesterday I brought home a Leica M6 with a Summicron 50mm Type 5 (built-in hood). It's my first Leica camera and lens. Both seem to have had little use, they are in very good cosmetic condition, little wear... When I got home last night, upon close inspection of the lens under a lamp, I noticed something I hadn't seen before buying. On the edge of the front element, when light was hitting at a very specific angle, one could see marks or stains, can't quite describe it, around most of the edge, almost like it was lubricant. At first I thought it was on the outside, and I cleaned it, but it remained, that's when I realized it was on the inside of the front element. I couldn't resist the temptation, and tried to unscrew the ring with the lens description. It unscrewed, so I carried on exploring... Undid a retaining ring after that, and the front group came out. Another ring on the back of the front group, unscrewed that, and the front group divided in two, and you can reach the back of the front element. So I cleaned the back of the front element, with standard lens cleaning fluid, and it appears to have worked, the lens seems perfectly clean with no marks whatsoever. Reassembled it with caution and it's on the camera, which is halfway through the first roll... Still haven't bought the adapters for my digital cameras. After I did it, doubt started to creep in... Could that have been some kind of coating on the inside of the front element? Could I have removed it just by cleaning? The only time I saw coating damage was in an old Mamiya TLR lens, the coating was kind of peeling off around the edges, but it looked different, it had an edge to it, and kind of chipped off. In the Leica it wasn't like that, it looked stained, smudged almost, no edge to it. Does anyone know if this lens has any coating on the inside of the front element that is sensitive enough to damage by cleaning like this? I also read a thread here that states that all inner coatings since 1960's are hard, and not likely to be damaged by simple cleaning... I hope that stands true in this case... It seemed to me that the front-side of the back element from this front group indeed was coated, but I did not touch that, as it was clean and perfect. Any insights are appreciated... Thank you very much!
  8. I decided to empty out my bottles of Diafine A and B. Before pouring in new solutions of diafine I want to have clean bottles. The A bottle is clean, the B bottle has several patches of deposit. Hard to get by with a brush, so I tried with warm water and soda, warm water and cleaning vinigar. No result. Does any of you had experience with solving this problem. I don't want to throw away a perfectly good brown glass bottle.
  9. My Trusty little Leitz 40mm f/2 was suffering from aging grease, Canada Balsam and the internal black paint had begun to become detached also so a repair was needed I also wanted to add a modern focus tap. Since the lens is so cheap I decided to try it out myself. I have a lot of knowledge about AF and MF Nikkor, Cannon Olympus and Vooigtlanders SLR and Leica mount lenses, most parts of the design and build is same same :-) but this tiny Leica has some differences as to how it's put together, first I was very disappointed to find that the front threads part series 5.5 threads is glued to the aperture housing, next I found that the rings that 'normally' have two holes or ridges for lens spanners for tightening the old Leitz lens had one or even none, so had to be taken apart with friction, a rubber tube of the right thickness must be used to reach into some parts of the lens to get it apart, I modified these rings, drilling two holes makes the hole deal a lot easier. Got it all dismantled and sorted out, the two elements with the Canada Balsam issue got a 'cooking' treatment in boiling water to separate the two halves. A drop of Araldite Krystal and the two are inseparable, a coat of mat black paint to finish the job off. Putting everything back together without leaving dust or prints is the worst part... The old gease was cleaned off and the many threaded focus threads lubed with new grease and put back together as marked by disassembly. The new focus tap needed a slight trim to clear the mounting ring and two extra location holes to keep it in alignment a single screw holds it in place. Everything fits within very tight tolerances; position of glass elements, focus threads so it was a joy to work on it. All the parts, note extra holes, the two glass element front center Extra holes for focus tap in focus mount. Focusmount with focus tap. 24 hours wait for the Epoxy to cure and testing today went very well, focus at infinity and all the way to 0.7m is spot on. Lens is now in good service condition and much closer to my heart
  10. Hello everyone. I just purchased my first Leica yesterday. The body is a IIIg from 1957 and the lens is a 50mm Summicron f/2 from 1956. I paid $300 for the lens. However, upon looking at the lens (front and rear glass elements) with a flashlight in the dark, I noticed there was a little haze coming from inside the glass. I'd like to get this lens cleaned. Anyone have a ballpark figure on how much a cleaning like this will cost?
  11. Hello, I have generously received a late model 135mm Hektor in M mount which has a lovely exterior, but there are dust bunnies clinging to the otherwise pristine matte black finish on the inside of the focus tube. I'm Seeking advice for cleaning these loose fuzzies without marring that currently unmarred paint. Shoukd I just wing it and gently wipe with a soft cloth? Note: so far the lens surfaces appear to NOT be hazed or fungus'd up, but the rear surface of the lens head is still waiting to be cleaned and find out for sure. All comments and input are highly welcome. Sincerely Richard in Michigan
  12. Hello to everybody I'm new at the leica forum - up to now my only practical experience with Leicas was my mothers "Leica III", equipped with a simple Elmar 3.5/ 50mm. I did use it at the age of 15 in school ... to take pictures of the girls . - That's how i came into photography. At the age of 17 i changed to Minolta (Leitz was simply too expensive for me), and i never used the Leica III any more. Some days ago, however, i found a Thambar 9 cm 1:2,2 at a local "garage sale". When i saw it, i thought it might be nice as a portrait lens, even though there was some fungus inside. Otherwise the glass was without any damage. I decided to buy it, since it was just about 100$. Now my question: Does anyone here know how to dismantle / clean the Thambar? Before starting the work, i'd like to collect as much information as possible ... Thanks for any help, drawings (eg lens cross-section) and suggestions. Stephan
  13. I am trying to clean the dust off my M8.2 sensor, and need some help in locating a couple of stubborn spots. I am using the Pentax cleaning kit (the orange lollipop used at Solms) for the job - and need to focus on a couple of specific areas, and not sure where they are on the the sensor relative to the image. For instance, is the top left corner on the image the top left corner on the sensor or is there an inversion?
  14. Is this something I can do myself or should I have it done by a professional? Thanks.
  15. Guest

    Dirty Sensor - Need Advise

    I got my M9 12/23 and someone on the forum pointed out that my sensor needed cleaning. I initially though "no way - not possible" but indeed - blue sky photos in Florida show many spots as do photos taken in Brighton. No way did I do that. I got a dirty M9. So what to do. How do I clean the sensor or should I send it to Leica ?Please advise - I am quite unhappy if not pissed.Greetings
  16. Sometimes the dirt trapped in the lens grip can be too stubborn to be brushed off by a tooth brush. A bamboo chopstick can help. https://lenspotion.com/blogs/news/how-to-clean-the-lens-body
  17. I have somehow managed to get a little condensation behind the protective glass for the LCD screen. I've never applied one of these protective screens myself before, but would like to remove it as it's a little annoying. Any suggestions/best practices other than just ignore it? 😉 Thanks!
  18. The outer back of the DMR has a number of white labels. On the left are button labels: Play, Delete, Protect, Info. In about three years of DMR use I managed to obliterate most of these four labels. I suspect it is caused by oils (maybe acids?) or other secretions from the skin of my fingers (mainly, thumb). Now that the entire back plate has been replaced by a new one, I want to avoid the trouble described above. I propose regular cleanings. Please advise the acceptable fluid to use in cleaning.
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