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Found 4 results

  1. Hi! Today I received a batch of negatives which I had processed and scanned at a dedicated b/w lab. Usually I do the scanning myself, but this time I needed some quick results to check the technical validity of some vintage cameras and I had little spare time available. These scans are low res jpeg and only substitute for contacts. I am thinking of re-entering the dark abodes of home-developing, especially after reviewing the result that I want to query this forum about. Seven rolls of TriX, TMax and HP5 from diffeent cameras (M3, IIIf, M7) came out fine, but one roll of film (TMax) from a 1934 IID shows peculiar scratches not typical of ones that I have seen or produced myself before. Since this is the only roll of film from this newly acquired camera that I have available (it is currently away for a focusing CLA), I would be particularly interested in whether it is a problem that might be related to the camera or whether it is related to film handling pre/during/post development, which I find more likely. Since I bought the camera from a respected dealer, he should be noticed of any problems soon as possible. The scratches start at #25 and continue until #36A, where the scratch line tapers off into the perforation. It is not a strictly parallel scratch like ones I have seen from damaged back plates or sloppy enveloping/ rolling and it is not continuous for all the way. I will post three example images. I hope diagnosis can be made from forum resolution. (1): #29, Inadvertent picture of my lens cap (idiot me ) (2): #32, Oyster bed, 300 million years old, today grounding a cottage, situated 600 Km from the nearest shoreline (3): #35, Casino, Wiesbaden, Germany Has anybody seen a scratch configuration like this before? Thanks! Kind regards, Mathias EDIT: By the way, the scratches are on the emulsion side.
  2. Hi guys, my usual M9 case disappeared for some reasons and I decided to carry it by my backpack instead...without any wrapping. As a result, the LCD monitor is badly scratched and there's this nasty whitish line across the screen together with various other marks. Since Leica Germany is not going to change the plastic monitor (I have no intention of upgrading to sapphire), is there any way to alleviate the problem, like applying screen protectors that can mask the scratches? Thank you guys!
  3. I rarely clean my M9 CCD, nothing more than using a rocket blower if needed. Recently I have discovered a quite obvious scratch on my photos at F16. So I checked my CCD pixel by pixel and saw a quite big scratch. I thought it was just a hair stuck on CCD so I brought my M9 to a local Leica dealer. They told me that it's a scratch on CCD coating. I had no idea how this happen and they had no clue either. I contacted Leica Germany and told them the issue, the response was they're short in CCD, and they're moving the manufacture to a new place, which means the process of sending my M9 from Taiwan to Germany and get it fixed, then returning to me will take more than 2 months...2 months...jees.... has anyone here had the same problem? I didn't even touch my CCD and it got scratched...out of no where...and it'll take more than 2 months to get it fixed.
  4. Here I want to share my experience on scanning scratched negatives. I thought it might be helpful since recently there are many questions posted on this. I've never owned an ICE capable scanner, so I had to find a solution for covering scratches on colour negatives when scanning them with my Konica Minolta film scanner. Post processing is not adequate in some cases. So 6 years back, I purchased a liquid solution called Rexton Scratch-Match from Adorama. It worked great! You just apply liberally over the frame you want to scan, it doesn't evaporate quickly and stays there. You wipe it off later, doesn't leave any residue. You can also clean the film with your favourite cleaner afterwards. 6 years fast forward, I am no longer living in the States, and similar products are not available for airmail postage due to harmful/toxic properties. So I had to find a local alternative. TURPENTINE! Yes, it is the same stuff, smells the same, and works the same, and cheaper! I read somewhere that Scratch-Match had some Chloroform (now a regulated substance) added to Turpentine. But apparently, Turpentine by itself works OK, too. I used distilled filtered Turpentine from Daler-Rowney. For better results apply with a flat painter's brush. Note that this solution doesn't help emulsion scratches. Below is the proof. I deliberately scratched (a bit too much actually) a negative strip and tested for you. Cheers, Koray
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