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Is early days I realise, but I wonder if we could please have a thread devoted to third party lens performance on the SL please. In my case I would be interested in experiences with Zeiss F mount lenses (ZF/.2), particularly the 1.4/55 Otus, 1.4/85 Otus, and 2/135 Apo-Sonnar. But I also have a couple of C/Y lenses. I'm sure there are others here interested, as well as those with Canon and Nikkor glass. If I end up with and SL I will report first hand, but I haven't decided to pull the trigger yet (I had wished for higher resolution and IBIS), but there is a lot in this camera that appeals, including it looking like a good tool for some R glass I have. So, anyone with an SL and experience with third party lenses, please share your experiences. Thanks in advance.

The SF60 flash will not discharge.... either on camera or with SF C1. Have paired and test flash works fine. Has anyone has problems with this flash on the SL... BTW. works OK on the Q.

Hello, I want to share with you my last experience with the SL. It was the first studio session on location I had, mixing strobes and ambient light, since I purchased the SL. During this session I have had a really hard times trying to focus on some faces during this group & portrait session yesterday! I was in a white walls area and the ambient light was rather normal (sunny day). I was shooting with a moderate natural and clear back-light coming from 2 windows. I used 2 strobes on the persons. Most of the time, I was more or less able to focus easily, but on one face it was almost impossible, wherever I set the focus point on the sensor, to focus! I had to add a side continuous light to be able to focus. And even so it was not obvious to achieve it right all the time.😳 To be honest, I am a little disappointed by the "lack of power" of the AF response. Even my previous DSLR (Nikon D800 & Pentax K1....) were better in low or contrasted lights than the SL. 🤔 On a more positive side the image quality (especially skin tons) is far better than everything I had in hands before. 🤩 Has anyone gone through such difficulties and is there a better camera setting to insure better results? Many thanks in advance for your educated advice. 😁

Hi folks, Excuse the dodgy Photoshop composites but having had my eye on the SL together with its native 16-35 mm glass for a while I thought I'd see whether the Sony A9 and its admittedly brighter 16-35mm G Master lens was so much more compact that it might tempt me away from a future SL purchase. Here's my best effort (which may not be 100% accurate) at scaling the two side by side. I've superimposed an outline of the SL over the A9 to highlight the differences. I've had the pleasure of playing with the SL plus its 16-35mm lens (and loved it) but not the A9 so, for me, this was a useful exercise and one which surprised me a little. While the A9 is less wide it is only noticeably so around the grip which looks a little tight for my hands. The difference in price, specifications and performance for the two cameras plus their 16-35 mm lenses are out there for anyone to read and my needs and wants may not be yours - I'll keep saving for the SL, or SL2! 😀 Bob.

One of the listed buildings in Wolfsburg, Germany, the city of "VW"

The WIld Hunt , german Wilde Jagd describes the 12 days/nights between christmas and the 6th of january and its "spiritual meaning". The older people are counsel caution and to me it is the time to look to the sky and nature and have some good times outside 😀 (Even Johnny Cash had a song about this...)

Hi folks, I have a problem with my Leicaflex SL and I'd really appreciate some advice. When I bought it, I put in a Cris adapter with a 386 battery - the meter worked just fine for about 2 weeks, and then just stopped working. Since then, I've tried several fresh 386 batteries with the Cris adapter and no joy with the meter. A google search found some mentions of the Cris adapter not working well with the SL. I really like the option of having a meter in camera, so I'd be very grateful for a solution, based on your experience. Many thanks, Raj

Friends: I know this question might have been asked long time ago about SL2. I did not hear any SL2 announcement at Photokina instead heard about the L Alliance. So does that mean its a good time to buy into this system? if so, is it worth buying the SL now or wait on SL2? I feel SL2 wont be out until next years event for I think right now they want people to invest into this line. I have invested in the M10 line significantly and just dumped all my Canon gear which I used for landscape. I used Canon just so I can be a little careless with my equipment vs M10. If Sigma & Panasonic are going to make lenses for this mount, may be just a may be SL is what i should buy? What are your thoughts, opinions, feedback, gripes... ? Appreciate your response. Don

mother died at birth-> 3l milk every 4 hours, and it takes just 2-3 minutes to drink (SL, Nocti 50mm at 1.0 ISO 3200 1/50sec)

Hallo, ich erwäge den Kauf einer SL zusätzlich zum meiner M(240). Die SL ist nun in die Jahre gekommen und einige Konkurrenten können inzwischen einiges besser, wie z. B. Nikon Z7 mit eingebautem Bildstabilisator, schnellerem und zuverlässigerem Autofokus und dazu mehr Auflösung. Die Gretchenfrage ist, wann Leica nachziehen wird und vielleicht sogar mit einem isolosen Sensor kommen wird. Sollte Leica auch einen Bildstabilisator in das Gehäuse integrieren, wären die heutigen SL-Zoom-Objektive osbolet, denn dort ist ja einer eingebaut, was die Objektive zusätzlich aufbläht. Warum ich nicht die Nikon kaufe? Weil es keine Leica. Nein, auch ohne Spaß, weil ich Probleme beim Betrieb meiner M-Festbrennweiten an der Z7 befürchte. Es gibt zwar einen Adapter von Novoflex aber der Hersteller weißt darauf hin, dass Fehler bei Langzeitbelichtungen auftreten können, was immer das heißt. Bleibt also nur zu warten bis zur nächsten Photokina oder vielleicht die Nikon mit Adapter ausführlich testen. Was meint Ihr? Viele Grüße juja

SL-601

I was considering getting a second hand SL. However the TAN number has already been used, so Image shuttle (for Mac) and the plug in will not me available for download. Is there a stable workflow for shooting tethered that bypasses the use of those softwares, ideally to use with Lightroom? Thank you so much for your insight, Kind regards, Celia.

Dear all, I maybe the latest GAS syndrom victim as I bought a Leica SL + 90-280 to use on a trip along with my M(240) and CL. Could be useful to photography whales and penguins in Cape Town I am wondering how you set your SL when using manual lenses (M lenses in my case) ? On the CL, I use the wheel to quickly zoom in, nail focus and shoot. I came to like that method. But on the SL ? I found the default setting quite cumbersom (thought I've been playing around with the camera for 1/2 hour only...) How do you set your SL to be efficient and fast at focusing using the zoom-in possibility ? Is it possible to set a kind of automatic 10* zoom when you frame ? thank you for your answers ! Didier

I am new to this forum, but I am considering the major step of switching my entire AF from Canon to Leica. While I have never shot with the SL, the simplicity and design are really making me want to make the jump. I currently shoot with a 1DX Mk ii, and I have a Sony A7ii with an M Adapter and an M9 as well that I just recently purchase and love it. Has anyone made the same switch or has shot with both and has advice or insight? Thank you and glad to be in the forum. Note: I got the camera for a Safari and it performed well - but haven't used it much since. Mike

The newly released Sigma 14mm f1.8 Art lens is discussed in several threads, but it might be convenient to gather info in one dedicated thread. The lens is available in Nikon and Canon mounts. As a guidance to new/potential buyers, here are some findings after playing with three copies of the lens, all in Nikon mounts. The testing has been tailored for night/star/northern light/etc. photography, i.e., with the deep sky as a major component of the image. In the following I only discuss sharpness across the image when the lenses are set wide open (f1.8) and at near infinity. Other optical qualities are, of course, of importance as well (aberration, astigmatism, coma, etc.), as well as other shooting conditions. As mentioned, three copies of the Sigma lens have been tested, all in Nikon mount, but I guess the results are transferable to Canon mounts as well. The tests are done with Nikon D5 and Leica SL, the latter with two Novoflex Nikon-to-Leica adapters (one manual and one electronic): (0) Yes, even infinity needs accurate focusing! Therefore, forget the infinity marking on the lens (as on most lenses). (1) Set the lens to manual focus; it appears that the focusing is less reliable when the lens is set to auto focus (despite auto focus is not activated by any camera buttons). Don't ask why and I can not prove it, this is a suspicion I have based on the testing. (2) Live view on Nikon D5, at full zoom, is only marginally able to guide correct infinity focus. Using a loupe on the back screen is recommended, possibly needed. (3) Live view on Leica SL, at 10x magnification, is much more accurate than the Nikon live view (nothing new here) and can be trusted regarding infinity focus. Thumbs up for the SL! (4) In my case, the manual Novoflex adapter gives even focus throughout most of the image. This is not the case for the electronic adapter; when the center of the image is in focus, the edges smear, and vice versa. So there are differences in the mount precision. This does not imply/prove that manual Novoflex adapters are more accurate than the electronic one, rather that differences between adapters can be expected. So for accurate infinity focus with non-SL lenses, testing of several adapters might be required (actually, I have two manual Novoflex adapters, with one being a `keeper', the other less so). So adapters can be tricky. (5) Irrespective of the FF body used (Nikon D5 or Leica SL), copies of the Sigma 14mm f1.8 ART at f1.8 show differences regarding edge/corner sharpness when the central part of the image is in focus. Vice versa, when the focus point is set near(er) to the corners, the central part of the image may turn soft. So some copies of the lens do not stand the task. Actually, the excellent SL EVF can be used to judge the lens sharpness across most of the image. Set the focus somewhere in the frame, and 'walk' around in the EVF to check the focus throughout the frame (note that we are talking about focus near infinity). (6) Of the three lenses tested on D5 and SL, the latter with the manual Novoflex adapter, one copy is fine - being sharp across the image with only weak softness in the outmost corners. The lens is sharper than the Nikon 14-25 f2.8G zoom, a highly regarded lens (despite the Sigma is shot at f1.8). One copy is perhaps acceptable, the third copy fails wrt edge/corner sharpness. (7) For all three copies of the lens, optimal sharpness across the image appears to be obtained when the focus is put about 1/3 off the centre of the image. (8) I find accurate, manual focussing somewhat tricky with the lens; very small rotation of the focus ring moves the focus point too far/quickly, so I would prefer a longer focus throw length (but I guess this might influence the lens' autofocus). In conclusion, the new Sigma can be fine, even used wide open at f1.8, but testing is needed... Used on the SL, testing of adapters are also needed... Images will follow after some shooting.

Today I finally got around to testing the SF-64 that I purchased 3 weeks ago. In summary: it's great! Seems to deal with every test I tried. A tad large. Caveat: I did not test every possible combination of settings and usage. I only tested the scenarios that I am likely to use: Fill-flash just to pop an almost indiscernible amount of light into shadows on a face - must not look like a flash has been used Indoor shots when there's not enough ambient light to hand-hold safely and there's something to bounce the light from (white ceiling or wall, reflector, umbrella) The SL and this SF64 (and FW 2.0) lets me do these two things easily. I mainly tested Aperture priority but I did test some Manual and Program. Mainly, I was playing with the Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC) to get the right balance of ambient and flash. The SF64 is big but not out of place on the SL / 24-90mm combination. The handling balance is still comfortable. The controls on the back of the SF64 are mainly touch-screen but nice and easy to see and press. It's great that it displays the camera's aperture setting and also the distance range (min to max) that the flash can cover in the current setting. A nice feature is the ability to adjust the FEC on either the flash or in the SL menu. With the FEC now assignable to the favourites menu and a button shortcut, it's easy to change the FEC on either device. If you change it on one, it updates on the other. If you have saved an FEC in your profiles, that becomes the starting point for the FEC whenever you switch the flash on. This Hacienda photo has just a tiny bit of fill flash (FEC = -2). Similar images shot with the flash turned off are somewhat darker inside the funnel of the flower. Sunny afternoon but the flower is mainly lit from behind. 90mm 1/90s f4.0 ISO100 I did a quick comparison with the SF40. While the SF40 functions well for some settings, it tends to over-expose shots where the main subject is close to the flash. And, the FEC range of +2 to -2 is a bit limited for fill-flash. As others have noted, one thing that's not quite working as expected is using Flash with Auto-ISO. As soon as the flash is turned on, the ISO locks in to the lowest number in the Auto-ISO range, in my case ISO100. I guess that the complexity of having the ISO change is too much for the flash TTL algorithm to handle. Others are concerned about this but I prefer setting the ISO to a fixed number for most images, especially when flash is involved as my brain struggles to calculate the probable results of too many changing variables... Regards Peter

I am thinking of buying a remote shutter control for SL601. The original is Leica 16070, but I don't like wired type. I just wonder if there is any third party generic remote control (wired/wireless) that can work with SL. The Apps is very unreliable as I always lose contact between iPhone 7 and my SL with FW3.2. Thanks for sharing your experience. Benedict.

Hello everybody, I’m fairly new still to photography as a hobby, but am an avid Leica SL shooter. I switch between seven different Leica SL and M lenses on my SL. But I’m hoping perhaps SOMEONE can help me figure out why my SL/ 24mm Lux pics are getting purple spots in the center of the photographs. This doesn’t happen with any of my other lenses on the SL. Only with the 24mm LUX, and I actually don’t recall this being an issue when I first bought the 24mm. It seems to be something that only developed after about 4-6 months of owning the lens. Could it need a proper cleaning? It appears clean to the naked eye.

I am experiencing a problem with the 3.2 firmware update. It is showing up in both of my bodies that I have updated to 3.2. There is an automatic freeze-frame auto review after EVERY shot. It is the equivalent of shutter blackout as I can't see my subject for a split second while the auto review flashes in the EVF (and on the LCD) and I shoot action so this is a real problem. Is anyone experiencing this? I don't (and have never had) Auto Review on. It is OFF. I can't re-install the update because camera sees it as already installed. Please advise. Leica: if this is a bug, please correct ASAP, I am a working professional and am severely handicapped because of this. Many thanks.

I’m interested in getting the latest DJI Ronin-S for stabilising the video footage with my SL. I’m only just starting to research it from the usability and compatibility angle. Have you done more research yourself and can share? Are there any users out there already with the SL?

Hi all, I've noticed that the on-camera profiles for R lenses, automatically applied in Lightroom after importing DNGs if the correct lens was selected in the camera menu, often overcorrect vignetting at mid-apertures (f/5.6 to 11), resulting, in slightly brighter far corners. I had to set some vignetting in Effects menu to compensate for this, or even better turn off the on-camera profile before the shot (but then I have no EXIFs, of course, nor other corrections for distortion and/or chromatic aberration). Has someone else noticed that? I'm running v3.0 firmware. Thanks