Search the Community

The first and second miniature revolutions In my thread on 100 years Null-Serie I include the development of the Ur-Leica of 1914. The Ur-Leica was created in the middle of a miniature revolution with an increasing flow of Liliput cameras. This miniature revolution already began in the 1880s – 1890s on the back of the new gelatine-based light-sensitive silver emulsions. One direction was (French) miniature cameras for dry plates with formats like 4,5x6cm. The other direction started with the Kodak roll film cameras. During his work for Zeiss Palmos and ICA (1902-1910) Oskar Barnack was in the middle of this miniature revolution. It is fair to mark the introduction of the Leica I in March 1925 as the beginning of the second miniature revolution. This second miniature revolution was not only a 35mm revolution. One can see a divergence of miniature formats (miniature inflation) and a later convergence to the formats 24x36mm on 35mm film and 6x6cm on 120-film. It follows that the Rolleiflex of 1929 must be regarded as the second standard bearer of the second miniature revolution. In the 35mm realm the success of the Leica format also benefitted from the contributions of Agfa, Perutz and Kodak (producers of 35mm film). Similarly, competitors like the Contax, the Kodak Retina, the Kine Exakta and the Agfa Karat helped to establish the Leica format as one of the dominant standards for miniature photography for the remainder of the 20th century.

The new firmware v.2.1.1 for Leica M11, M11-M and M11-P is available today. The update includes a number of stability and performance improvements. The improvements: Camera did not start if the start process was previously interrupted by switching off the camera. Occasional generation of incorrect image data has been fixed. Various errors and causes of freezes have been fixed. Improving the stability of the firmware. You can download the firmware from the following links: Leica M11: v.2.1.1 Leica M11-M: v.2.1.1 Leica M11-P: v.2.1.1

I recently found a super deal on a Visoflex 020 being sold by Adorama through auction listed as having major defects; the details described as "** Item Notes: Viewfinder does not switch back to LCD screen properly; Likely proximity sensor issue; May have other issues; Cosmetic condition is E ** However, the price was too good to pass up, less than half price of a brand new one. So I took a chance and bought it. When I received and tried it out, to my surprise, it worked, but there were green lines across the display. The lines went away when I angled the viewfinder to the max 90 degrees angle, but only temporarily. Issue returned when I adjusted the angle of the viewfinder again. I spent the latter half of a Friday evening/night before I pinned the problem down to the LCD connection to the main board. I started disassembling the base module where the unit connects to the camera at the hot shoe. There are four screws at the bottom, then the top of that module can be lifted up and out. There is a swinging door with the tiniest spring that attaches to that top piece, very easy to lose. The door can fall off easily. The hot shoe connection can then be disconnected from the metal hinge assembly by removing two silver screws and pushing back the two plastic tabs securing the connector to the hinge plate. To disassemble the main eyepiece module, the rubber eye "hood" or protector had to be removed; it is held in by double-sided adhesive at the top and bottom inside. Behind that, there are two screws left and right flanking the eyepiece that hold the upper and lower housing together. After I removed those, I spent a lot of time working the housing, trying to figure out if there were any other screws, or if adhesive or tabs were holding them together. Turns out, I took a chance and found out there is a tab on each of the three sides. The bottom comes off, and the main assembly is attached to the top housing. The ribbon flex cable connecting the base module to the eyepiece main module had no signs of damage; connection was fine, and removing/reattaching it did not resolve the green-lines issue. There were no breaks on the flex. However, pushing the flex beneath made the green lines disappear temporarily. So I removed the mainboard from the top housing assembly, and found a misaligned connection between eyepiece LCD and the mainboard: see, the connection is crooked It may have dislodged from the connector after a drop, or perhaps maybe it was never properly installed at the factory. Or maybe the continued adjusting/angling of the viewfinder furthered the loose connection? In any case, removing and reinstalling the connection made the green lines disappear and have not reappeared ever since I reassembled everything together. I tested the eyepiece multiple times on my TL before reassembling everything back together. Gotta say, I'm very happy with the viewfinder. Though it seems to pale in comparison to the viewfinder in my recently acquired CL, it is still a very welcome addition. And very fun to use. I'm not a serious photographer, but I'm slowly working my way into a new hobby.. Some background; I have repaired other people's smartphones in the not too distant past, and I collect and repair vintage Macintosh computers. After my experience with the TL, Leica cameras are working their way into becoming a new part of my collection.

nice video, so theyre still making the .95 noctilux [~22 min]

Brought the M9 to Helsinki, a town that surprised me positively. A few pictures here, and a full gallery on https://www.mortenalbek.com/morten-albek-photography-gallery/ M9 with Summilux 50mm f1.4 ASPH

Hey, who would love to habe a TS Lens for L-mount. I would love to have some stellar Tilt Shift Lenses. 90mm 50mm 24mm 16mm That+s what I would love to see in the future. And as Leica has a medium format camera with S Lenses, this should not be that big problem. How about you? Are you happy without TS lenses? I am using Canon instead at the moment. But I would change this.

Hi everybody, I’m a computer science engineer who has been working, as a hobby, the last three years in a new, more precise, way of recreating film look with digital cameras. I’m posting here for feedback, in case anybody of you would like to test the application (with the M9) and show the results and your opinions. I usually shoot film photography but also I like the comfort of digital. The problem is that I’ve never been happy with existing film emulations. Mainly because of that, because they are emulations instead of simulations. METHOD USED For doing so, instead of doing a generic conversion for every camera, I’ve done a specialised conversion for the Leica M9 based on simulating the chemical process and spectrum response, instead of applying curves and other stuff. In the end, I thought, if analog and digital are just two instruments which capture light, I thought, maybe is there any mathematical conversion to make the digital to look like film? I mean, if I take the same photo with analog and digital, under exact same conditions (light / aperture / exposition /…) could I make them look exactly the same? It’s based on chemical simulation and the Leica M9’s response to spectrum. Then LUTs and finally some extra calibration. I think that it could be improved because I’ve used home made or open source tools for calibrating and so on, which are far from perfect. EXAMPLES (Analog vs Converted Digital) Following are some examples of Superia 200 and TriX 400. Click in each photo to see high resolution. DNGs shoots taken with Leica M9 (left), and FILM shoots taken with Minolta CLE (right) at same conditions (aperture / exposition / ISO). All shoots taken with Zeiss Biogon T* ZM 35mm f/2. The examples show several photos, which are the following: +------------------------+------------------------+ | original DNG | | +------------------------+------------------------+ | converted DNG | scanned FILM | +------------------------+------------------------+ | developed DNG | developed FILM | +------------------------+------------------------+ For the generated simulated negative TIFF file and the scanned TIFF file I’ve applied exactly the same develop parameters. TriX 400 - 1 TriX 400 - 2 TriX 400 - 3 Superia 200 - 1 Superia 200 - 2 Superia 200 - 3 Superia 200 - 4 Superia 200 - 5 Superia 200 - 6 CONCLUSIONS Tonal range - Biggest difference between digital and film Dynamic range - Digital is faaar more detailed in the blacks, film never gets burnt, meanwhile digital gets burn quite fast. Film has more microcontrast, it's more sharpen Digital is a little bit more contrast after developing, I imagine it’s because it reach white level faster, then, when doing autolevels with the developing program, as a result, it’s a more contrast image. DOWNLOAD I'm having a console application ready, if interest is shown it will be ready quite soon! CAVEHEATS / LIMITATIONS The program only accept DNG, because I need all the light captured by the camera, instead of a JPG already converted and really dependent on camera self made adjustments. The program only accepts photos taken at the ISO of the certain film that is gonna be used. For example, for TriX400 it will accept only Leica M9 DNGs at 400 ISO. I’ve also done tests with ISO 200 and 800, and the results were quite satisfactory but, for complexity reasons, I prefer to let it be native film ISO for the moment. Highlights are not always correct, and sometimes they look weird, mainly in color film. This is due to bayer sensor pattern and its different intensity response (for Red, Green and Blue channels). FUTURE (& PAST) WORK Leica M10-D Leica M8.2 THANKS Super thanks to the creator of LibRaw, a wonderful C++ library for working with RAW files. Any questions I’m open to answer 🙂 Best regards everybody. Tomás AKA “Camalogica”

Liebe Leica Freundinnen und Freunde, der nächste Münchner Leica Stammtisch findet am 12.04.2025 ab 17:00 Uhr im Wirtshaus am Bavariapark (Theresienhöhe 15) statt. Das Wirtshaus ist ab Hauptbahnhof gut mit der U4/U5, Haltestelle "Schwanthalerhöhe" zu erreichen. Davor besteht die Möglichkeit gemeinsam ab 14:30 Uhr einen Fotowalk im Verkehrszentrum des Deutschen Museum zu machen. Meldet euch bitte über folgenden Link an. Nur so wird es gemütlich und wir haben ausreichend Platz: https://nuudel.digitalcourage.de/5QHkM6dEcxva3Kim <<--- hier anmelden Ich freue mich auf euer Kommen. P.S. Neue Gäste, Fotobegeisterte, Analogies, Digitalos und (Noch-Nicht-)Leica-Liebhaber sind gern willkommen 😊

My article here, celebrating 100 years of Leica cameras, attempts to illustrate certain aspects of the Leica Heritage, which have developed over that period.. https://www.macfilos.com/2025/02/24/leica-heritage-the-remarkable-story-of-the-leica-company-on-the-100th-anniversary-of-the-leica/ Comments are welcome, particularly as regards any aspects of Leica Heritage, which I may have left out, William

Winter came late to Lebanon this season, Acile was the first storm to put our mountains under the beautiful snow mantel. A pair of backcountry skis was all I needed to go up one of the most beautiful cedars reserves to witness what Acile had done. Hope you enjoy the view.

Hey, I am curious. Would you buy one of these? https://leicarumors.com/2024/02/26/confirmed-the-first-samyang-l-mount-lens-will-be-the-af-35-150mm-f-2-2-8.aspx/ https://www.samyanglens.com/en/about/notice-view.php?seq=1533&search_params_str=page%3D1%26perPage%3D20%26search%3D%26searchText%3D%26type%3D I am working with all kind of crazy lenses. I would love to test them .... This is my sigma zoom.

I have been using an only M lens I have left: a Summilux-M 1:1.4/35 ASPH (11663) with my CL body, I now have no more Leica M bodies, which I use to shoot slide films only. What do you think: should I replace the M lens with a: “Summilux-TL 35 f/1.4 ASPH.”? Would this 35f1.4-TL lens much more suited for the CL camera body than the 35f1.4-M lens + “Leica M-Adapter L“ Now the only TL lens I have is the 55-135 zoom.

Hey, if Leica would build a fullframe CL with L mount and USB-C port, would you buy it? And what other feature would you like the camera to have? I would love if it would have same Leica fullframe pancake lenses. One extrem wide > like 18 mm one 28 mm , 35 mm , 50 mm That would be my favorite camera. if the connectivity to the app would improve a bit more still , I would skip the tilt LCD. buttons like the SL3 and Q3. And dual pixel AF. Would you buy it? And can you sleep now that the idea is planted…. cheers ps. After one day of taking picture > it’s very close to my favorite camera.

Hey Cats! new mini speedlights from Godox that work with Leica ! I am delighted 😁 https://leicarumors.com/2025/01/02/three-new-godox-mini-flash-units-released-compatible-with-leica-cameras.aspx/ cheers 🥂

Hi, there is one new Feature on the SL3 that i would love to have on my SL2-s and Other SLs. The light Level on the OLED Display. This can’t be that difficult? If you are working with different SLs this display should display the same features. I used this levels a lot on my other cameras as it became a standard in the 90s. So I was a little disappointed when I had to realize that with the SL2-s this level is not available. Do I need the battery symbol at this location > I am not sure 🤔 the Bluetooth symbol ? I don’t know Cards? Modes? > Bigger displayed > But there is one thing I would love to know when I look down on my camera > exposure > just for reference. I can prepare the shot without holding the camera to the eyes! All the others information I can get when I look through the camera. But the light levels > this is very important to me. And if you don’t like the proposal, many we can activate and deactivate the feature. And speaking about light levels and dynamic range. 14-15 stops , 14 decided by 2 is 7 …. can we get 5 stops on each side to sea what is going on? I know that you can see this with the histogram. But sometimes if you are taking pictures in low light 💡 it’s nicer to know where you hitting the lowest capacity of the camera. And 10 Stops should not be that big of a deal. I don’t need it in the OLED > but in the Viewfinder > that would be excellent. that are 2 of the things that I would love to see in future firmware updates. cheers 🥂 Peter

Dear SL-S users! I am a family photographer in the Mexican Riviera Maya. Colors pop, lightning is almost always beautiful. Nice soft pastel tones dominate the mornings and evenings. I am quite happy with my Canon R6 but just recently my 35mm 1.4 ii gives up on me and I am considering a change to the SL-S. I do have an M10 with a Summicron 50 f2 and Summicron 28mm f2, and even if I personally like the images that I get with the M System I never use it in family sessions as the pictures and colors always turn out a bit "harder" over the Canon colors that work so well where I live. My question to you: Do you recommend me switching to the SL System? Maybe you did sessions of that sort in comparable areas and can share photos? Thanks a lot and happy new year!

Hi Guys, I bought a 250 reporter last WE down here in Capetown South africa with 7 other cameras in a lot (am very exited) on closer inspection and a careful clean( all the vulcanite s gone) , I discovered a few anomalies . the 250 is completely chrome with a Telyt 20cm 4.5, there seem to be a lens in the viewfinder to give you a 200mm view . On the top the serial number is nr137650 but on the body someone tried to scratch out a number that looks like 35- - 14 , if I look at serial numbers associated with chrome reporter's it should be between 352301and 352500 , so mine could be 352314 according to what s left of the middle . My question to collectors out there is what to do with this camera for it to be a nice collectible?

hi, ever since i took a 2 minutes long exposure shot with my m9.. now all the images taken are in purplish tinted color.. may i know what is the problem and solution? thank you very much in advance.

Today the news. There is a new MP/M6 camera, or should I say a new M3 camera. Who is interested? Leica M-A // Leica M // Fotografie - Leica Camera AG

Hello, I am new to the world of Leica and the forum but I have just purchased what I am hoping is a genuine M3 off a private seller but I had a question about something I only noticed once I had the camera at home with me. Basically I realized the Lens "Release" Button doesn't have the signature M3 metal surround. I have spent a few days google-ing and researching the features of an authentic leica and everything appears to be correct except for that tiny piece of metal that every other M3 has around the lens button. Was there at any point any variation that lacked the surround or would any of you guys/girls have any suggestions/reasoning behind it? Everything else seems to be correct like the pitting and general wear, the rewind knob dot colour etc etc. Thanks in advance for all your input and suggestions, based on the responses I get I can easily add more photos that would help you out.

I own a Leica R8 and several lenses (most are APO-). A year ago I bought a Leica DMR to go digital with my R8 equipment. The DMR was used but still with 3 months garantee. I send the DMR with the R8 to Leica that they put it professionally together and to test the R8 with DMR. I was able to work with this for 3 months,- then a message on the screen of the DMR appears when switched on "Error Code 2". I took a look in the user manual, no description of Error Code 2. I wrote an email to Leica and waited a long time, after 2 weeks I wrote another mail with some Leica people in cc. I got an answer that Leica will do its best to fit that problem until summer. Summer comes and go, autumn comes and go, winter comes - still no news to Error Code 2. A few days ago I got a mail by Leica: "Sorry but we must tell you that error code 2 means that there is a heavy error in the electronic of the DMR. This defect isn't repairable due to missing spare parts.". I couldn't believe what was to read there. I asked back if that means that my thousands of Euros for the DMR are to hell now? I got the answer that Leica will search for a solution until end of first quarter 2011. I'm a Leica customer since 25 years exactly don't to have such topics like now. Does anyone also have the "Error Code 2" topic with his DMR and how was the solution? Best Regards Hardy Bongartz - Hamburg - Germany

Lomo gegen Nikon M8.2 Photokina Köln 25.09.2010

Wilsberg: Doktorspiele TV-Film, D 2009 R: H.G. Bücking Erstsendung: ZDF 25.04.2009 Titel der Buchvorlage: Wilsberg und der tote Professor In der Eingangsszene fotografiert der Privatdetektiv Wilsberg bei einer Observation mit einer Digilux3 einen Mord. Auslösegeräusch und Spiegelschlag wurden aber nachsyncronisiert Der Fernsehfilm zitiert ausserdem karikierend Filmklassiker wie Blow up und Der unsichtbare Dritte.

We're happy to announce that we'll be hosting a monthly social meet up and photo walk, named Bristol Leica Social. The first meeting will be on April 1st, 2017, and on the first Saturday of every month thereafter. We'll be meeting at the store on Baldwin St (3 alliance house, Baldwin St, BS1 1SA) at 9am. We'll be heading out from the store in self picked groups to take images around the centre, aiming to meet at a café at 12 noon to compare images and discuss all things Leica. The shop will be open as usual, and we will be here as usual to have a chat or demo any items (depending on stock availability) There is no cost to attend, but attendees are encouraged to bring money for any refreshments required as you walk around. Leica users of all kinds are welcome, and so are those who don't own a Leica but wish to learn more about the brand and the beautiful products that they offer. For current updates and more information, we have an event page on our Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/lcebristol/.

Unser monatliches Treffen im "BARCO Cafeteria Bar Cantina im K." (neben dem Badischen Staatstheater) findet am Donnerstag, 12.10.2017- um 20:00 Uhr wieder im Barco im K statt. Neue Gesichter, digitale, gedruckte und ausbelichtete Werke sind gerne gesehen. Ich bitte um eine kurze Rückmeldung wer kommen wird. Gerne per Nachricht an mich. Adresse: BARCO im K., Ettlinger Tor Platz 1a, 76137 Karlsruhe https://goo.gl/maps/b7CEZCSp6S52 Parken ist nur wenige Meter vom Treffpunkt möglich. Adresse für das Navi: Kriegsstraße 27, 76133 Karlsruhe. Ab dann einfach zum Ettlinger Tor-Platz fahren und auf der rechten Seite sind Parkplätze an der Straße verfügbar. Bitte beachten: Parken im Einkaufszentrum Ettlinger Tor ist leider nur bis 22.00 Uhr möglich! Alternativ ist das Parkhaus des Staatstheaters (Baumeisterstr. 9) bis 1 Uhr geöffnet. Der Abendtarif ab 18.00 Uhr: 4,00 €