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On 1 January 1935 appeared the first issue of of the magazine Leica News and Technique. This magazine was published by E. LEITZ (London) for the British market. Now the writer of the opening article does not mention his name. But the writer states: "The writer himself knows Mr. Barnack personally and had an opportunity of witnessing from the earliest stages the manufacturing of the first Leica series". On page 2 he adds: "I remember in 1923 how Mr. Barnack was still experimenting and how a number of mechanics in his department at the works used to assemble a certain portion of the Leica (...)" Now these quotes closely resemble quotes by Dr. Paul Wolff in other publications. So I am tempted to assume that Dr. Paul Wolff is the writer of this opning article. However, on page 3 the writer refers to Dr. Wolff as another person. 'It is as Dr. Wolff, a famous Leica user, says (...)" Page 3 also refers to an exhibition in London by Dr. Wolff with over 200 big enlargements. So my question is: Who can be the writer of this opening article? Eye-witness accounts on the Null-Serie are very scarce! Each new witness would be of great importance! Of course, it is possible that Dr Wolff is still the author, but that he somehow did not want to publish his name. E.G. because the article was already making free publicity for his London exhibition? I will include scans of this article in the next slides. Here I have already a question: Is this periodical digitally available? My collection is not at all complete. Roland
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The first and second miniature revolutions In my thread on 100 years Null-Serie I include the development of the Ur-Leica of 1914. The Ur-Leica was created in the middle of a miniature revolution with an increasing flow of Liliput cameras. This miniature revolution already began in the 1880s – 1890s on the back of the new gelatine-based light-sensitive silver emulsions. One direction was (French) miniature cameras for dry plates with formats like 4,5x6cm. The other direction started with the Kodak roll film cameras. During his work for Zeiss Palmos and ICA (1902-1910) Oskar Barnack was in the middle of this miniature revolution. It is fair to mark the introduction of the Leica I in March 1925 as the beginning of the second miniature revolution. This second miniature revolution was not only a 35mm revolution. One can see a divergence of miniature formats (miniature inflation) and a later convergence to the formats 24x36mm on 35mm film and 6x6cm on 120-film. It follows that the Rolleiflex of 1929 must be regarded as the second standard bearer of the second miniature revolution. In the 35mm realm the success of the Leica format also benefitted from the contributions of Agfa, Perutz and Kodak (producers of 35mm film). Similarly, competitors like the Contax, the Kodak Retina, the Kine Exakta and the Agfa Karat helped to establish the Leica format as one of the dominant standards for miniature photography for the remainder of the 20th century.
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I recently found a super deal on a Visoflex 020 being sold by Adorama through auction listed as having major defects; the details described as "** Item Notes: Viewfinder does not switch back to LCD screen properly; Likely proximity sensor issue; May have other issues; Cosmetic condition is E ** However, the price was too good to pass up, less than half price of a brand new one. So I took a chance and bought it. When I received and tried it out, to my surprise, it worked, but there were green lines across the display. The lines went away when I angled the viewfinder to the max 90 degrees angle, but only temporarily. Issue returned when I adjusted the angle of the viewfinder again. I spent the latter half of a Friday evening/night before I pinned the problem down to the LCD connection to the main board. I started disassembling the base module where the unit connects to the camera at the hot shoe. There are four screws at the bottom, then the top of that module can be lifted up and out. There is a swinging door with the tiniest spring that attaches to that top piece, very easy to lose. The door can fall off easily. The hot shoe connection can then be disconnected from the metal hinge assembly by removing two silver screws and pushing back the two plastic tabs securing the connector to the hinge plate. To disassemble the main eyepiece module, the rubber eye "hood" or protector had to be removed; it is held in by double-sided adhesive at the top and bottom inside. Behind that, there are two screws left and right flanking the eyepiece that hold the upper and lower housing together. After I removed those, I spent a lot of time working the housing, trying to figure out if there were any other screws, or if adhesive or tabs were holding them together. Turns out, I took a chance and found out there is a tab on each of the three sides. The bottom comes off, and the main assembly is attached to the top housing. The ribbon flex cable connecting the base module to the eyepiece main module had no signs of damage; connection was fine, and removing/reattaching it did not resolve the green-lines issue. There were no breaks on the flex. However, pushing the flex beneath made the green lines disappear temporarily. So I removed the mainboard from the top housing assembly, and found a misaligned connection between eyepiece LCD and the mainboard: see, the connection is crooked It may have dislodged from the connector after a drop, or perhaps maybe it was never properly installed at the factory. Or maybe the continued adjusting/angling of the viewfinder furthered the loose connection? In any case, removing and reinstalling the connection made the green lines disappear and have not reappeared ever since I reassembled everything together. I tested the eyepiece multiple times on my TL before reassembling everything back together. Gotta say, I'm very happy with the viewfinder. Though it seems to pale in comparison to the viewfinder in my recently acquired CL, it is still a very welcome addition. And very fun to use. I'm not a serious photographer, but I'm slowly working my way into a new hobby.. Some background; I have repaired other people's smartphones in the not too distant past, and I collect and repair vintage Macintosh computers. After my experience with the TL, Leica cameras are working their way into becoming a new part of my collection.
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nicely explained
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Hi everybody, I’m a computer science engineer who has been working, as a hobby, the last three years in a new, more precise, way of recreating film look with digital cameras. I’m posting here for feedback, in case anybody of you would like to test the application (with the M9) and show the results and your opinions. I usually shoot film photography but also I like the comfort of digital. The problem is that I’ve never been happy with existing film emulations. Mainly because of that, because they are emulations instead of simulations. METHOD USED For doing so, instead of doing a generic conversion for every camera, I’ve done a specialised conversion for the Leica M9 based on simulating the chemical process and spectrum response, instead of applying curves and other stuff. In the end, I thought, if analog and digital are just two instruments which capture light, I thought, maybe is there any mathematical conversion to make the digital to look like film? I mean, if I take the same photo with analog and digital, under exact same conditions (light / aperture / exposition /…) could I make them look exactly the same? It’s based on chemical simulation and the Leica M9’s response to spectrum. Then LUTs and finally some extra calibration. I think that it could be improved because I’ve used home made or open source tools for calibrating and so on, which are far from perfect. EXAMPLES (Analog vs Converted Digital) Following are some examples of Superia 200 and TriX 400. Click in each photo to see high resolution. DNGs shoots taken with Leica M9 (left), and FILM shoots taken with Minolta CLE (right) at same conditions (aperture / exposition / ISO). All shoots taken with Zeiss Biogon T* ZM 35mm f/2. The examples show several photos, which are the following: +------------------------+------------------------+ | original DNG | | +------------------------+------------------------+ | converted DNG | scanned FILM | +------------------------+------------------------+ | developed DNG | developed FILM | +------------------------+------------------------+ For the generated simulated negative TIFF file and the scanned TIFF file I’ve applied exactly the same develop parameters. TriX 400 - 1 TriX 400 - 2 TriX 400 - 3 Superia 200 - 1 Superia 200 - 2 Superia 200 - 3 Superia 200 - 4 Superia 200 - 5 Superia 200 - 6 CONCLUSIONS Tonal range - Biggest difference between digital and film Dynamic range - Digital is faaar more detailed in the blacks, film never gets burnt, meanwhile digital gets burn quite fast. Film has more microcontrast, it's more sharpen Digital is a little bit more contrast after developing, I imagine it’s because it reach white level faster, then, when doing autolevels with the developing program, as a result, it’s a more contrast image. DOWNLOAD I'm having a console application ready, if interest is shown it will be ready quite soon! CAVEHEATS / LIMITATIONS The program only accept DNG, because I need all the light captured by the camera, instead of a JPG already converted and really dependent on camera self made adjustments. The program only accepts photos taken at the ISO of the certain film that is gonna be used. For example, for TriX400 it will accept only Leica M9 DNGs at 400 ISO. I’ve also done tests with ISO 200 and 800, and the results were quite satisfactory but, for complexity reasons, I prefer to let it be native film ISO for the moment. Highlights are not always correct, and sometimes they look weird, mainly in color film. This is due to bayer sensor pattern and its different intensity response (for Red, Green and Blue channels). FUTURE (& PAST) WORK Leica M10-D Leica M8.2 THANKS Super thanks to the creator of LibRaw, a wonderful C++ library for working with RAW files. Any questions I’m open to answer 🙂 Best regards everybody. Tomás AKA “Camalogica”- 182 replies
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nice video, worth watching
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"NOSTALGIE" Gemeinschaftsausstellung von Holger Daberkow und Dr. Marcus Müller Vernissage 23.10.25 um 19:00 Uhr, Galerie in der Raumwerkstatt, 35576 Wetzlar, Altenbergerstraße 84a einführende Worte: Michael Agel Öffnungszeiten: Do.+ Fr. 15-18 Uhr, Sa. 10-13 Uhr Ausstellungsdauer: 23.10.25 bis 22.11.25
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I just got this very clean M3 and I’m experiencing these unusual light leaks. I have shinned a light inside and tried to find the source, but I can’t figure it out. I thought it could be the curtains, but they look brand new. Any ideas?
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The Vol I and II Books (Cameras and Lenses) from the set of 3 are now available again from Leica Society International as limited editions. https://leicasocietyinternational.org/shop/p/leica-an-illustrated-history-volume-i-cameras-volume-ii-lenses https://leicasocietyinternational.org/shop/p/leica-an-illustrated-history-volume-i-cameras-volume-ii-lenses-1 The first edition is an 'Art Edition' with signed photographs and numbered and signed books and the second one, a 'Deluxe Edition', will have the signed books and a different number range. Jim Lager is, of course, a founder member of Leica Society International. The books have been much sought after, having been out of print for many years. These are just reprints and there is no update to the content. William -
The new firmware v.2.1.1 for Leica M11, M11-M and M11-P is available today. The update includes a number of stability and performance improvements. The improvements: Camera did not start if the start process was previously interrupted by switching off the camera. Occasional generation of incorrect image data has been fixed. Various errors and causes of freezes have been fixed. Improving the stability of the firmware. You can download the firmware from the following links: Leica M11: v.2.1.1 Leica M11-M: v.2.1.1 Leica M11-P: v.2.1.1- 633 replies
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nice video, so theyre still making the .95 noctilux [~22 min]
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Brought the M9 to Helsinki, a town that surprised me positively. A few pictures here, and a full gallery on https://www.mortenalbek.com/morten-albek-photography-gallery/ M9 with Summilux 50mm f1.4 ASPH
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Hey, who would love to habe a TS Lens for L-mount. I would love to have some stellar Tilt Shift Lenses. 90mm 50mm 24mm 16mm That+s what I would love to see in the future. And as Leica has a medium format camera with S Lenses, this should not be that big problem. How about you? Are you happy without TS lenses? I am using Canon instead at the moment. But I would change this.
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Liebe Leica Freundinnen und Freunde, der nächste Münchner Leica Stammtisch findet am 12.04.2025 ab 17:00 Uhr im Wirtshaus am Bavariapark (Theresienhöhe 15) statt. Das Wirtshaus ist ab Hauptbahnhof gut mit der U4/U5, Haltestelle "Schwanthalerhöhe" zu erreichen. Davor besteht die Möglichkeit gemeinsam ab 14:30 Uhr einen Fotowalk im Verkehrszentrum des Deutschen Museum zu machen. Meldet euch bitte über folgenden Link an. Nur so wird es gemütlich und wir haben ausreichend Platz: https://nuudel.digitalcourage.de/5QHkM6dEcxva3Kim <<--- hier anmelden Ich freue mich auf euer Kommen. P.S. Neue Gäste, Fotobegeisterte, Analogies, Digitalos und (Noch-Nicht-)Leica-Liebhaber sind gern willkommen 😊 -
Hello there. I have been entertaining the idea of buying a half case for my Leica MP. I have mixed views about the half cases for these fine cameras. On one hand I want to protect this valuable piece of delicate machinery from harm as much as I can but on the other hand I don't want an extra layer of thickness while holding the camera which has already perfect dimensions. While I think of the Leicas and the cameras in general which have survived to this day I see a lot of them have some sort of leather case that protected them for all those years. But when I see the cameras of pros that have been brassed beautifully I admire them even more because of those marks. What are your thoughts on this subject? Does a Leica need a protection from harm? Should a black paint Leica brass over time? Will a Leica brass no matter what the intentions of its user? Does a half case make the camera thicker in a way that it affects its usability? Or do half cases make the camera easier to hold? If used with a half case, does black paint Leicas gather an uneven patina?
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Hi, I bought a ex cl on ebay. working fine. only after a roll of film almost lost the rewind. Very loose, coming off. I realize this is a 40 yo, + camera. wondered if there is a fix for this, or do i have to send it in for a cla? Any advise appreciated. richard
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Hallo liebe Community, vielleicht kann mir jemand von Euch helfen. Ich bin auf der Suche nach dem Namen dieses Objektivs. Ich würde mich freuen, wenn einer von Euch etwas dazu weiß. Danke schonmal und liebe Grüße
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Hello everyone, I just spotted some white particles on the far edge/periphery of one of the lens element of my summarit 75 2.5 . I bought this lens used two months ago and at the time I could not see anything. I cannot say 100% but I suspect those particles were not present. They are hard to perceived. I only spotted them while taking pictures of my first born this morning when I was about to fit the cap onto the lens and had a look at inside. The sun was very bright and I could perfectly see them, them were almost shining like crystals ?? Pictures are not affected at all and I am only worried for the case of a fungus. I do not care about dust, but this is the first time I see something like this, hence me asking for your help/advises. Because they are on the far periphery of the lens element they are hard to picture. For the pictures below I had to flash the front element with a led light and it creates some ghosts/artefacts. For instance you can see that this "line" of particles appears twice, mirroring itself onto the next lens element. They only appear on one side of the lens and I also pictured the other "clean" side as a reference. Pictures are not great but this is what I have for now. I Thank you for input and wish you a pleasant week, Best, Fabien
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filmed in 2011? but released last week..for whatever bizarre reason.. but anyways has some interesting footage
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Hello there. I am a happy owner of a Leica MP. I bought it as my first Leica couple of days ago after saving up for a considerable amount of time. Unfortunately I have a problem with my camera and after searching in internet I found out that nobody had a problem like mine. So I wanted to ask this minor thing that has been itching me for the last 2 days to the knowledgable people of this forum: My question is: Is it normal to have a 3mm long scratch in the inside of the baseplate, close to the little wheel? I noticed that after opening up the camera there is a small protrusion which sticks out of the camera in the film take up spool side. I suspect that it made the scratch to the inside of the baseplate as the tip of the protrusion is matching with the scratch itself. I don't remember if it was there or not when I opened camera for the first time. When I had my camera for the first time I accidentally closed the baseplate without the backdoor of the camera sitting perfectly. So when I locked the baseplate up the backdoor was literally open. I ofcource immediately saw my mistake and closed the camera correctly. Is there a possibility of I caused that scratch? I am afraid that I was so excited to have my Leica that I caused the scratch by accident. If you enlighten me in this subject I would be grateful. Thanks in advance...
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Just got my M10 and have been somewhat disappointed by the colors. In some circumstances, they’re absolutely great. In others (and shooting situations which I frequently shoot - backlit subjects who have lighter skin tones), they fall apart when I do any serious color grading. I’ve attached a link for reference. Notice the majority of influence over the skin tones is determined by the purple slider. In my experience on professional Canon systems (as well as Fuji), skin tones are generally captured in the Oranges, Reds, and Yellows. On occasion, I’ve noticed them “bleeding” into the Purples/Magentas, but generally it’s an easy correction with a hue adjustment toward red in Lightroom. This has happened more on my Fuji gear than my Canon, which I thought was just a product of the XTRANS. Images for reference. Note: I’ve increased each slider to 100 to illustrate the influence of the respective slider, not as an artistic decision. https://imgur.com/gallery/mFTvTGz I’ve had to do more “additive” color editing (color grading with added oranges/yellows in the mid tones) to get even close to the effect I desire to be consistent with my professional body of work, but it’s tedious and feels more like a workaround as opposed to simply a different process. Is this a hallmark of these sensors? Has anyone else had an issue with skin tones merging into the purples? The issue here is that it doesn’t give me precise and consistent control over tonalities which are consistent with my other work. Not only that, but as opposed to adjusting a couple of sliders to produce the look, I’m adjusting literally three times more to try and get close and, eventually compromise, on the desired look. Also, here is an attached photo with the exposure info as well as histogram illustrating that I’m shooting at base ISO, and exposed with the limitations of the M10 sensor in mind. https://imgur.com/gallery/v2EPnGf I want to add that I’ve been shooting for over a decade. This certainly isn’t my first rodeo. The only thing left for me to try is making my own custom color profile, but in over a decade of shooting, this has never been a requisite to get the colors I want out of my photos. Does the M10-R improve on any of these shortcomings? Also, I want to preempt against any comments telling me I’m just confused or apologetics from Leica koolaid mixers. I’ve read some responses on this forum before from some of them and they seem to be obstinately opposed to the notion that perhaps the sensors in these cameras aren’t as good. While DXOMark gives the M10 a higher overall score than my 6D, in my experience, the colors are more pliable. Finally, my artistic discretion is going to differ from yours. I have seen a lot of photos posted here in discussion which are also effectively SOOC, with minimal correction. I have a stylized look I go for, which requires flexible colors.
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I am posting this here and in the Collectors and Historica section of the Forum. I will give a Zoom presentation for the LHSA at 7.30 pm, British Summer Time, 2.30pm EDT, on 19th August 2020 about 'Choosing and Using Old Leicas'. A link to register for the talk, which is free for LHSA - The International Leica Society – members, is here. https://lhsa.org/2020/06/free-webinar-aug-19-choosing-and-using-old-leicas-with-willian-fagan/#myaccount The talk , while mainly aimed at those with smaller collections and photographers who want to have one or two old or vintage Leica cameras to use, will also be of interest to more experienced collectors and users. ‘Old Leicas’ will include LTM and M models from 1925 up to and including the M6. I will present Leicas from different generations in groups of 3 and will indicate my own personal favourites, which should give rise to varied opinions in the discussion afterwards. I will indicate some of my favourite films. I will also give tips about using older Leica cameras, in particular about the question of loading LTM models and film trimming in advance of loading. I will describe various accessories for Leica cameras and their uses such as viewfinders, lens hoods, winders, cases, close-up equipment and filters. The response to this has been very good, with 135 members from many different countries registered as of yesterday, indicating the increasing interest in vintage Leicas and film photography generally. There are still a number of places available. We hope to have some time for questions and answers afterwards. I hope to see some forum members online as I know that quite a few here are LHSA members. William
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I am posting this here and in the LHSA section of the Forum. I will give a Zoom presentation for the LHSA at 7.30 pm, British Summer Time, 2.30pm EDT, on 19th August 2020 about 'Choosing and Using Old Leicas'. A link to register for the talk, which is free for LHSA - The International Leica Society – members, is here. https://lhsa.org/2020/06/free-webinar-aug-19-choosing-and-using-old-leicas-with-willian-fagan/#myaccount The talk , while mainly aimed at those with smaller collections and photographers who want to have one or two old or vintage Leica cameras to use, will also be of interest to more experienced collectors and users. ‘Old Leicas’ will include LTM and M models from 1925 up to and including the M6. I will present Leicas from different generations in groups of 3 and will indicate my own personal favourites, which should give rise to varied opinions in the discussion afterwards. I will indicate some of my favourite films. I will also give tips about using older Leica cameras, in particular about the question of loading LTM models and film trimming in advance of loading. I will describe various accessories for Leica cameras and their uses such as viewfinders, lens hoods, winders, cases, close-up equipment and filters. The response to this has been very good, with 135 members from many different countries registered as of yesterday, indicating the increasing interest in vintage Leicas and film photography generally. There are still a number of places available. We hope to have some time for questions and answers afterwards. I hope to see some forum members online as I know that quite a few here are LHSA members. William
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Guten Tag, Neueinsteiger in das M-System und generell bei Leica. Habe ein paar grundlegende Fragen und hoffe das mir ein paar alte Hasen diese beantworten können. 1. Ist es normal das die Mechanik bei unterschiedlichen Zeiten sehr unterschiedliche Geräusche macht? - ( von 1/1000 bis 1/60 ein klicken ) -( bei 1/30 und 1/15 ein klicken sowie ein schwingendes Geräusch also ob etwas träges sich austariert ) -( von 1/ 8 bis 1s ein klick mit ablaufen der Zahnräder ein weiteres Klicken der Verschluss schießt und einer etwas langsameren Zahnradmechanik im Anschluss ) Das diese Kamera Vollkommen Mechanisch ist und die Zeiten somit einen Mechanismus brauchen ist mir Bewusst. Es wundert mich bloß das die Geräusche so unterschiedlich ausfallen. Das erste surren der Zahnräder kann ich mir erklären das zweite jedoch nicht sowie mich auch das schwingende Geräusch etwas irritiert. Gibt es dazu vielleicht eine Animation ? 2. Ist es wirklich so einfach ein Loch in das Verschlschlußtuch zu brennen? Ich verwende momentan ein Leica SUMMILUX-M 1:1.4/50 mm ASPH. In den Monaten Februar und März, welche zu teilen doch sehr verregnet waren und auch die Sonne noch nicht ganz so hoch stand , ist mir aufgefallen das sich ein weißer Fleck auf dem Tuch befindet. Ich dachte erst es sei ein Wassertropfen und habe einfach weiter Fotografiert. Ein paar Filme später wollte ich in trauter Zweisamkeit etwas entspannen und es fiel mir wie Schuppen von den Augen da ist ein Loch. Zunächst einmal Vorsichtig abgestellt, Objektiv abgenommen und verstaut, Bodenplatte entfernt, Rückklappe aufgeschlagen, ein Licht unter die Kamera gelegt. Es schien Licht durch ich hatte ein Loch. Muss man immer den Schutzdeckel auf der Frontlinse haben? 3. Ist die Beschichtung so fragil, verursacht die womöglich austretende Gerbsäure ein schnelleres abtragen der Beschichtung oder ist es der druck den das Leder auf die Beschichtung ausübt ? Die schwarzverchromte Version dieser Kamera ist nun 3 Monate alt und ich habe in etwa 20 Filme Belichtet. Dazu trage ich sie mithilfe eines Lederriemens von Oberwerth ELTZ, welcher einen Ring verwendet der jedoch durch ein passendes Lederstuck vom Gehäuse ferngehalten wird. Gibt es Produkte bei denen das nicht passiert ? 4.Ist diese Kamera wirklich so fragil gegenüber von Umwelteinflüssen, muss man sich jetzt bei einem Nieselregen Gedanken machen und auch den Staub in der Luft auf die Liste meine Erzfeinde schreiben ? 5.Gibt es Pflegehinweise so wie Verhaltensregeln die zu beachten sind , eben so für das Objektiv ? 5.Von was für einem Wartungszeitraum kann man ausgehen, wird sich auch das Fokussierungssystem innerhalb von Monaten Verabschieden, welcher weitere Verschleiß ist zu berücksichtigen? Über Erfahrungsberichte sowie Vorschlage würde ich mich sehr freuen und bedanke mich Schon einmal im Voraus.
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