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  1. I am a long-term M3 and Rolleiflex shooter, and for black and white am more than happy making prints in the darkroom. Shooting color on film is also fun, but developing and scanning, for me at least, isn’t. And I’ve been wanting to have the experience of shooting digitally with my M lenses for a long time. So last week I took the plunge and bought a used M10R. I got the silver version and am struck by how much it looks and feels like my 1960 M3. The simplicity of the camera makes me happy — I was concerned about being overwhelmed with menus — but I’m sure I have much to learn about getting the most out of the camera, about post-processing, etc. (It renders black and white beautifully too, but I won’t put aside my film cameras). Do any other film shooters have advice or experience to share about their transition? Any thoughts are welcome.
  2. I recently bought a one-owner M3 DS with a DR Summicron from an estate in Chicago. The camera and kit are absolutely lovely. The only issue is that the vulcanite was flaking off with every time it was handled. I finished peeling it all off, mostly with my fingernail, and cleaned the remaining adhesive off the body with acetone. I ordered a dark blue leather replacement cover from Morgan at cameraleather.com. He was responsive and helpful and I had the new leather in my hands in about five days from the date of order. Exceptional service! And the leather... oh my... it's gorgeous. Total install time was about ten minutes, and that with me trial-fitting it and figuring out how I was going to do the install. It went perfectly. it was simple and easy. And I think it looks amazing! My first M body was an M3 in 1974 that I promptly traded back in for an M2 that developed a severe case of fungus when I lived on Guam. Since then I've had an M4-2, M4-P a couple of M4s and another M3 or two (and an M8 and M9P.) My vision got so I couldn't focus the M4-P/M8/M9P well any more so I sold them in 2016. A conversation with a friend recently about the 1:1 finder in the M3 and the differences from the later finders got me to wondering if it was different enough that I could still use one, and much to my surprise, I can see the focusing patch quite well in the M3. It pleases me to have an M again.
  3. Thanks for the help…two questions. What can of black paint to use and recommendations for smoothing out a bit of grit on the bottom plate. Blessings and thanks James
  4. M3 Horizontal light leak / streak? Help! :-) Greeting all! Attached are images from a '59 M3 seviced by DAG at some undetermined time before I bought it. This issue only occurred on this roll after 20+ previous perfect rolls. This horizontal streak showed up an most of the 38 exposures. It seems worse on longer exposures but is still visible on a few of the faster shutter speeds. It does NOT show at the 1/1000 range. The first two pics are from the first part of the roll, the third pic is from the end of the roll. Film: Ilford 400, lens Sumilux 50mm (with hood). Any help would be appreciated. If this symptom has been discussed and solved, let me know where and I will gladly delete this post :-) The scans just hit my email, and I have asked the lab to check the negatives' rebate to see if it was processing, since I do not have the negatives in hand yet. Many thanks, Dan.
  5. My father=in-law had a M3 engraved by Leica with his name in the late 50's early 60's. His name was James Herbert Elliott. He went by Herb Elliott so I'm not sure how it was engraved. He was the first photographer to work at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway after it reopened after WW2. I would love to find this camera as a gift to his family. Please let me know if you have any information regarding this camera. I checked with Leica and their records don't go back to the 50's and 60's for engraved cameras.
  6. is this manual actually from 1959 ? https://photographysgoldenageii.wordpress.com/2019/02/08/leica-m3-service-manual/
  7. Leica M3 Sumicron 5cm APX400 in Rodinal
  8. stvn66

    M3 vs iiig

    If you were given the choice between a Leica iiig and a Leica M3 which would you choose and why?
  9. 100 t-max, M3, 50mm Zeiss People who have travelled to, or seen images of Shinto shrines in Japan will know about Ema...small wooden plaques on which you can write a wish to the kami/gods. It's common during the New Year's holiday to write your wish for the year. The first picture below is context for those who have not seen Ema. I've seen thousands of these, and wishes range from the cure for a loved-one's cancer, to a plea that Liverpool will win the Premier League. The other day, I randomly selected and turned over one Ema. As I slowly read, (shooting film seems to slow down everything I do), I thought it a bit ironic. "If his tests include English spelling, he will surely need to study more." Says I, the parent of a 6 yr old. .....but then I got to the last sentence.
  10. So, I've finally decided to dip my toe in the Leica pool. A long-time Pentax user who started with digital, then began to use film more (with an MX and and P30N). An M6 could be in the longer-term, but I want to learn and experience the meter-less world first. With exceptions allowed for family and event photos, I'm aiming for a 'one-camera, one-lens' project next year to teach myself some of the basics I've probably skipped over in the past. I've seen a good oppotunituy for a 'User' grade M3 or, for 200 GBP more, an 'Exc+' M4. My question is whether there is really better value in getting an 'Exc+' over a 'User' given my circumstance. I'm assuming the issue is really the lens, and whilst everyone seems to say 'Summicron 50mm' - can anyone explain the difference between 'rigid' and ottherwise? And which should I go for as a first time RF user. many thanks
  11. I have recently bought a Leica M3 and have run a couple of films through it and have thoroughly enjoyed using it. I have owned an M6ttl for a number of years. As far as I can tell it all works great but I am not sure the film advance is as smooth as I have read about (but this could be a myth). Also there is a bit of dust or something in the viewfinder which is not really a problem in use. I would quite like to get it CLA'd just to know it is working as well as it can. I was just wondering what the general opinion of getting a cla on a camera that is working ok, is it completely unnecessary? I was thinking of using Aperture in London as I can get to them easily have used them in the past for Hasselblad repairs.
  12. Hi all, Just had my M6 CLA’d due to a light leak around the shutter curtains. They are demonstrating some curling and leave a light leak when a frame is left in the gate for too long. The tech replaces the baffles among other things but I can still see a bit of light at the edges when shining a bright light. He claims that is normal and his other Leicas also have this. Can anyone attest if that is true by checking your shutter curtain edges when shining a bright light inside? much obliged Boe
  13. Hi all, Just had my M6 CLA’d due to a light leak around the shutter curtains. They are demonstrating some curling and leave a light leak when a frame is left in the gate for too long. The tech replaces the baffles among other things but I can still see a bit of light at the edges when shining a bright light. He claims that is normal and his other Leicas also have this. Can anyone attest if that is true by checking your shutter curtain edges when shining a bright light inside? much obliged! Boe
  14. A few years ago, I bought a used (obviously) M3 from B&H in nyc. Armed with a little bit (ie dangerous) amount of knowledge, i knew enough to check the alignment and accuracy of the rangefinder--it was and is perfect--and the general look and feel of the camera, which was clean and smooth operating. It is a single stroke model with a high (above 1m) S/N. I treated myself to a brand new Zeiss 50mm f 2.0 Planar and ran a couple of rolls through it to check the shutter accuracy and focusing. I was satisfied that the camera was up to snuff and I still have and enjoy the camera. But I don't think it is what it appears to be. While it has a single stroke mechanism with the telltale longer advance lever, it has the "buddha ear" strap lugs, the older style film reminder and the decimal shutter speed dial--(1/10th, 1/100th). However, the rangefinder patch has the depth of field "notches" which I understand came later. And what may be a clue--the bottom plate appears to be new but seems to be OEM. Has anyone encountered a camera with this combination of features? I am guessing that this was the work of a skilled repairman who cobbled the camera together from spare parts, complete with a salvaged top plate with a high s/n and bottom plate. Fortunately for me, the camera works beautifully and I am happy with the results. Thoughts?
  15. Hi, I’m new here. I am using Canon DSLR and Nikon F3P film camera. I understand that a Leica camera won’t make me a better photographer, but I like the feel after tested the Leica camera at Leica store, and I love the experience of controlling light by myself. I started from DSLR then move to film, my F3 explore my vision of “how to exposure work”, but relying very minimum of the electronic parts inside my F3 (basically just a light meter). With all the reasons (maybe excuses), I am decided to become one of the Leica member. Last week, I saw a good deal of 50mm f2 rigid, and my finger acted to quickly and accidentally make up the purchase, now it on the way. I hope I can have some of your suggestions here to help me to pick my first Leica to start my Leica journey. Currently, I am considering M3, M4 and M5. Based on my search on the web, M3 is legendary camera, M4 is more modern, M5 is cheap & bulky. is there anyone who used or owned these camera and probably can give some advise to me? I planned to get one film Leica only, afterwards, I will invest into digital Leica. Thank you very much.
  16. First of all, hey y’all. This is my first post on the Leica forums. I’ve been a photography hobbyist for a while now and have been browsing the last few months for what I think would be my perfect camera set-up to start saving up for. After quite a few weeks learning the ins and outs of pretty much every camera body under the sun, I think I’ve finally settled on the M3. I love the all-mechanical body, the brass casing, and the quiet shutter—so far I only have one concern. My focal length of choice is 28mm, and occasionally 35mm. Does anyone have much experience using 28mm glass with an M3 body? I am not opposed to using an external viewfinder, but I’m worried that it would sort of interrupt the pure, smooth, and ‘invisible’ sort of experience I’m hoping for with a Leica. I know Joel Mererowitz used wider focal lengths back in the 60s and 70s, does anybody know if he was using an external viewfinder or if he just knew his machine well enough to estimate?
  17. Hello All, About 4 years ago, I came into the possession of a Leica M3 (Double Stroke, 735 xxx) after my friend found it in his grandfather's basement. Anyways, I immediately noticed that the vulcanite had already started chipping off the body due to the conditions which it experienced while not being used for nearly 15 years and I (of course) I wondered if there was any way to remedy the detection of the vulcanite. Now (four years later) I'm wondering if I should re-vulcanize the body or if I should leave it alone. My main issue is not the fact of shipping it overseas to be restored, but rather the value lost. Will it lose much value if I were to carry out re-vulcanizing the body? Or Should I not even consider this and just leave it alone? - Kevin
  18. Hi Guys, I am a new leica user starting with a handsome m3 camera a few months ago. Really loved the camera but i had lost the eyepiece part. I guess it falled somewhr cause it is a 60+ years old camera. The problem is i do not know the parts exact name and how i could find it. A friend of mine gave me the part of m2's but i cant see anything with it. I am uploading 2 photos so you may see and help me about it. --------------------------------------------------
  19. Guest

    M3 Just arrived

    Using this with a summitar lens and the leicameter mr. the jury is out for me. I know everyone else thinks this camera is wonderful. I am just used to my iiif perhaps. Focusing is much better on the M3 though. And there are many other advantages too. I just like the feel of the iiif. I thought that the light meter may have been out but it was a rotten day and very overcast having said that. A test run really. No art. Just testing functionality.
  20. Hello guys, my name is Mat, I'm from Argentina. About a year ago I started shooting street photography with a Fuji X100T and for the last few weeks I've been really wanting to try and buy an M3, so I did it. I bought one, in a trusty camera shop here in Buenos Aires, and it seemed to work well, film advance, all shutter speeds and rangefinder worked well so I had no doubt about it and went for it. After about 3 hours of leaving the store, I sat on a bench to load some film and try it, when I removed the bottom plate a big chunk of the vulcanite broke down and fell, didn't even mind about that because it's replaceable, so I started shooting, finished a roll and left it to be developed and scanned. When I got back home later that day, I was fiddling with it and put the shutter speed dial in 1 sec, fired the shutter and heard it open but never close back, instantly I called the guys at the shop and told them this two problems, they told me to bring the camera to them the next day and that they'd take care of the service charges. Today I left the camera on the shop and went to the lab for the scans and the negatives, when I got home I saw this: And this: Some photos had this "vignette"-like thing that looked like the photos were Extremely underexposed on one side/"correctly" exposed in the middle/overexposed on the other side, for example: AND, the few photos that looked "fine" had this weird black line on one side like this: This one has all of the problems at once: And there's this one that looks fine without any problems besides the shitty quality of the scan: I do not really know if the problem is part of this shutter curtains issue, or if it's the lens, by the way I'm using an Elmar 50mm 2.8, maybe I didn't extend it all the way it should be extended or it might be another problem, but please note that this is my first experience with an M camera and I still don't have the skills that the M call for. Thanks beforehand for any advice, they will be much appreciated! Sorry for the long post and for my bad english! Cheers. Mat.
  21. I'm not sure whether I've had bad luck with getting lenses to fit on cameras, or if this is a common problem with the M system. My first Leica combo was an M3 SS with Summicron 50 V2. Since the body and lens shipped together, there was no problem getting them to mount. Next, I purchased an Ultron 28 f2. The lens fit into the mount, but I couldn't get it to click into place. Took it to a repair shop, and the owner basically got the lens to fit through brute force - said Voigtlander QC wasn't great and that this was basically to be expected. I used the lens like this for a couple of months, but it would often "unclick" itself somehow, so I eventually traded it for a LTM Skopar 28mm. Same thing happened with the first adapter - couldn't get it it to click in place. Went back to the shop, and was given a replacement that 'magically' worked without problems. Recently, I traded the M3 for an M4-P and, lo and behold, neither the adapted Voigtlander nor Summicron will even fit into the mount, let alone click. Thus out of 6 total Lens/body combos (2 bodies and 4 lenses/adapters), 4 have been faulty. I'd simply put it down to a service error or wear and tear, but the fact that this has occurred between unrelated lenses and bodies makes me skeptical. Has anyone had a similar experience? Am I doing something wrong?!
  22. I have a 28mm Elmarit ASPH and was wondering which analog film bodies it is incompatible with? I believe the red dot fouls the lens release on the M3 is that right?
  23. I've had several problems with my M3 including shutter bounce which have been mitigated but not eliminated by a CLA. All of them were manifested in VERTICAL defects visible on the negatives and so were consistent with an abnormality with the shutter opening as the vertical opening is moving across the frame. This recent defect is HORIZONTAL and appears as an overexposed band on the top of the image (bottom of the negative) and the the bottom of the image, although only the defect at the top of the image is clearly visible here. It occurred about three times on a 36 exposure roll and neighboring frames shot at the same speed did not have this defect. It does not appear to be a light leak because the overexposure does not extend past the frame. Any ideas??
  24. About a year ago, I had my M3 CLA'd after sporadic shutter problems caused results like the overexposed bar in the first example. After about 10 rolls of film, the "bars" are back, (happening once per roll in the last couple of rolls) along with the over exposed "bar" at the far right of the frame shown in the 2nd example which I believe are limited to exposures made with 1/500th or 1/1000th of a second. The latter problem can actually be seen by dry firing the camera as a bright "slit" on the right edge as the shutter is closing is observed through the open back. My question is should this be happening so soon after an CLA? Is there something inherently irreparable in the shutter mechanism?
  25. I prefer to take pictures on overcast days for a variety of reasons. Unfortunately, by definition that means that there is a threat of rain. I take along a zip lock bag so that if it starts raining, i can protect the camera. How concerned should one be about surface water on a film M? Any other clever ways to protect them from this threat?
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