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  1. https://youtu.be/2wmkHDrR2cc?si=dOUXF1HybtbAo3U9
  2. I just found (yet another...) 'Made in Germany' 35/1.4 v2 (11870). S/N is 3433XXX, which indicates that its birth date was sometime in 1987 if I'm not mistaken. It comes in its original box, with matching serial on the sticker. Interestingly, however, the writing on the box says 'Made in Canada'. I know it was some kind of a transition period for Leica, with parts from Canada being sent back to Germany, but it's the first time I see such a lens/box mismatch. Out of curiosity, a quick question for the experts here: have you seen this before?
  3. Hi Guys, Am fairly new to Leica (6 months in) and I would like to seek your advice on which 35mm lens to get. I currently use a M240 body with a 60mm F1.2 Konica Hexanon and a 50mm Summicron APO. I am looking to add a 35mm lens to compliment my existing collection (and will be looking at add a 28mm Elmarit when the new one releases end of the month). I am considering the follow: 35 Summilux Pre-ASPH 35 Summicron Pre-ASPH Version 1 35 Summicron Pre-ASPH Version 4 35 Summicron ASPH (2016 edition) After doing some extensive research, I feel like the 3 Pre-ASPH lens may be a better compliment as it is softer / has more of a leica glow (since my 50mm APO and the 28mm Elmarit are both bitingly sharp)? I was originally going to just get a 28 and 50 and NOT the 35 since it seems to be too close to the other 2 focal lengths, so I am now thinking maybe getting something with more of a unique characteristic). Just wondering what all your thoughts are and why you think so? Your kind assistance is very much appreciated. Thank you. Best Regards, J
  4. After digitizing for quite a while all my 35 mm negatives via photographing them with 1:1 macro lens, tripod, and LED light table, I decided now to get the plustek 8200i Ai scanner with SilverFast 8 software. Main reason for it was correct color calibration of color negatives. To do the color calibration manually in PS or LR is not always easy. Posting here to hear from others who use a plustek scanner with SilverFast software. So far I am very impressed by the scanner and the software. I updated to the SilverFast 8.8 version which has a lot of options - tricky part is to figure out what is mainly needed for a good color calibration of a scan and what is more optional. I prefer to use the internal settings for films to choose from - the color calibration of the scanned color negative appears fairly correct afterwards that only minimal adjustment is needed. I also like the infrared dust scan and automatic subtraction from the photo - it works really well and leaves other image parts intact. One thing I struggle with is the archive mode of the negative - the only option to save the file in RAW as DNG. I didn't find yet a way to get an automated color calibration after the negative was scanned with the archive mode. I would prefer to have the scan saved as DNG but would like to have it processed like it is offered for all the other image file modes as JPG, TIFF etc. Is there a way to do this easily? What is your best / most proficient workflow using plustek scanners and this software? Did you encounter any drawbacks?
  5. Hi, This is a question about why is the R 35mm Summilux priced quite high on the second hand markets? The second hand prices for R lenses is of course regulated by supply and demand and tend to be lower than their M counterparts. There are the rare lenses of which few were made (I think 35-70/2.8) so these go for many thousands above original price. Others have a unique character or performance (80 and ROM 50 Summiluxes) and were always high in price. The 35mm Summilux, when I bought it as my first lens to replace my hated 28-70 was cheap and was in the hundreds of pounds (certainly far less in relation to the ROM 50 Summilux). Although the reviews were that it was a mediocre lens, I loved it. Even more on the DMR where it was more equivalent to my favourite 50mm view. I see these now on sale for very high prices equivalent to the ROM 50mm, why is that? I am not interested in selling mine though. From whom is the demand for this lens?
  6. Moved this to Landscapes.
  7. Hey Everyone! This is my first post here but I've been shooting Leica for the better part of a decade, now. I've just acquired a 35mm Summilux Pre-ASPH but I cant seem to get a concrete answer to what it is, exactly, that I have. The lens is SPOTLESS and came from an estate. It takes series VII filter BUT it has a chrome infinity lock. I was under the impression that only the version 1 on this lens had the infinity lock but the serial number, from what i've read, would mean its a v2 (#234+). It's a beautiful lens that came with the box and hood for almost "nothing". I really just want to know what it is that i've got and if it's anything special.
  8. Hallo Ich habe ein Leitz Elmar 3,5 cm f 3,5 M39 mit einer 300000er Seriennummer von ca. 1936 in sehr guten Zustand. Es ist kein LTM Objektiv,eher ein Pancake. Bitte entschuldigt meine Ausdrucksweise.Ich habe von Leica oder Leitz Objektiven nur wenig Wissen. Leider ist etwas Dunst zwischen den Linsen. Ist es möglich dieses Objektiv selbst zu zerlegen? Gibt es eine Anleitung ,wie man das Objektiv zur Reinigung der Linsen zerlegen kann. Das Werkzeug dazu habe ich oder kann es besorgen. Für Hinweise wäre ich sehr dankbar. Ich habe schone viele Objektive gereinigt.Nur dieses ist mir zu heikel. Gruss Michael
  9. I'm selling my 21mm Super Angulon f/4 M mount in favor of something a little more "practical". While in Cuba earlier this year, I found myself using the Zeiss 28mm f/2.8 on my Contax G2 quite a bit but for my next few trips, I'll bring only a couple of M bodies (M7 & Typ 246). I really love the results that I got out of my Zeiss and am wondering if I should go with another Zeiss (25mm f/2.8 or 28mm f/2.8) OR a new-ish 28mm Elmarit ASPH. So my two questions are "is the Elmarit ASPH quality worth more than double the price of a used Zeiss 25mm or 28mm?" and "In order to keep my work consistent, should I just stick with the Zeiss 28mm f/2.8 for the way it renders colors?" Examples of my work in Cuba with the 28mm f/2.8 on the Contax G2 below. Both photos with Portra 400.
  10. I already have a 21 CV, 35 Cron ASPH, 50 Cron, 85 Zeiss, 135 Elmar. However I use the 35mm almost all the time. I like the versatility of a 35mm and I hate changing lenses while on the field. Lately, I enjoyed shooting landscape, and I'm thinking of getting a wider lens than 35mm. Main question: Is it practical to have a 28mm despite already having a 35mm? Subquestion: Given my lens line up, I'm considering the 28mm Elmarit ASPH 2.8 or should I get the CV 15mm heliar III?
  11. Hi guys, I haven't find any serious comparison between new Summarit 35mm f2.4 and the older f2.5 version on the net. I've read in some reviews there isn't any difference between the optics and the new version only advertised as aspherical however the older has the same optics ! Is it right? But Ken Hansen a famous Leica dealer believes that there is a huge difference between the optics, design and picture sharpness and Summarit f2.4 can be compared with Summicron f2 in quality. What do you think? have you ever compared or experienced both? I'm have two choices to buy now with the same $1150 price. one is a brand new Summarit f2.5 and the other is a lightly used Summarit f2.4 which has been bought 3 years ago. Should i go for brand new f2.5 or the quality difference worth it to buy the used f2.4?
  12. here are the thoughts of two photographers on 28mm vs. 35mm for documentary photography. There is nothing "wrong" with the 35mm; for some reason, the 28mm focal length produces images that are more three dimensional looking to my eye. For that reason, I am drawn to the 28mm focal length. I think of my 28mm Elmarit as my documentary lens and my 35mm Summicron as my all-arounder. https://emulsive.org/articles/sharing-my-contact-sheets-india-snapshots-all-xa-all-colour?utm_source=EMULSIVE+Daily+and+Weekly+Newsletters&utm_campaign=e7c973b9ea-RSS_DAILY_EMAIL_CAMPAIGN&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_c4b55b017a-e7c973b9ea-174834361
  13. However, whereas the Canon F-1 Olive Drab retired long ago, the new Leica Reporter will be used...
  14. Hallo zusammen! Ich habe mir das Summicron 35 Asph. Gekauft und besitze das 35 mm Voigtländer Nokton. In meiner Vorstellung benutze ich das Voigtländer weiter, wenn es bewusst um das unperfekte geht, die Sonne im Gegenlicht, nicht ganz scharf etc. .. hat jemand beide Objektive und kann mir sagen, ob eines von beiden eher ein Schubladendasein fristet? Oder allgemein die Erfahrung über die Nutzung beider Objektive parallel. liebe Grüße und danke!
  15. Anyone tried it yet ? looks quite nice in some of the images online https://bluemooncameracodex.com/film-fridays/ffcinestillbwxx https://cinestillfilm.com/collections/bwxx-dou
  16. Got my first ever Leica M body last year. It's a M2. It came bundled with a Summicron 50mm F2 Collapsible. I'm really enjoying this combo, but I'm a 35mm shooter. I've found a Summaron 35mm 3.5 for sale in my country, for a decent price. It's serial number is the following: 1176436. However, I know that users have trouble defining their lens models, because they were produced in a large numbers. I've checked this one's number on a lot of different sources and foruns, but I failed on identifying it. The weird part is that checking through this website: https://reddotcamera.net/leica/serial-number-tool/ and in this page: https://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-wiki.en/index.php/Summaron_f%3D_3.5_cm_1:3.5 The information I have is that this lens is identified as a Summicron 50mm f/2, build in the year 1954 and a Summicron 5 cm 1:2 (M), respectively. Why is that? Has anyone here ever seen one of these? I wanted this to be the M2 version (to activate the 35mm framelines) but I have no clue what this all means. Any guesses are welcome. Thanks!
  17. Something I consider to be a glaring omission from Leica's current M-lens line-up is a light, compact, 35mm lens. Or am I missing something? F2.8 would be quite adequate considering the high ISOs available on the M10. The target market would be those for whom minimum size and weight is a major actor, plus those seeking a lower cost entry into the world of Leica M. As it is, Voigtlander offer just such a lens, though the reviews are mixed. I assume such a lens would be called an Elmarit, as the code seems to be Elmar -f4.0 Elmarit f2.8 -chron f2.0 -lux f1.4 or faster. Any comments as to when such a beast might become available, or should I just go and buy the Voigtlander?
  18. Hi there, I purchased the Voigtlander 35mm f2 Ultron about 6 months ago at my local Leica store. I have a problem regarding the focus ring; it's a bit loose in a way where I can move the focus ring horizontally and vertically (about a mm or so). Its not a big movement or anything but I can feel the loose when I'm trying to accurately focus an image. I've never seen anyone mentioning this problem from this lens., or any Voigtlander lens in this matter. I wonder if any user had such an issue or if I'm getting crazy about small stuff. Thanks in advance for the answers, Renaud
  19. I got a Light Lens Lab v2LC 35mm f2 Summicron Copy last week Overall, the Lenses share similar tone to Leica Summicrion 35/2, with good enough micro contrast, sharp in a relative cheap price level. I like using color pic more than BW pic when using v2LC. For me, the main difference between Leica Summicron , which can provide a more rich image texture and 3D rendering. But Light lens Labs 35/2 did a good job at this price level. Light lens Labs 35mm F2, Leica M10D, TCP Vision3 500T film Preset Light lens Labs 35mm F2, Leica M10D, TCP K64 Film Preset Light lens Labs 35mm F2, Leica M10D, TCP Vision3 200T film Preset Light lens Labs 35mm F2, Leica M10D, TCP K64 Film Preset Light lens Labs 35mm F2, Leica M10D, LR10.2, Nik Sliver Efex2 For More PIC and reviews , Please read : Light Lens Lab v2LC Summicron 35mm f2
  20. Hallo Leute, nachdem ich mir manchmal denke, das man nur einmal lebt, muss jetzt eine M240er her. Aus meiner Sicht gerade preislich ein guter Einstieg in das M System. Gesagt getan. Meine Traumlinse, das Leica Summilux-M 24mm 1.4 ASPH ist mir aber einfach zu teuer - und zu schwer. Ich wusste, wenn es mal eine M wird, dann ist das Voigtländer Classic Collection Nokton 35mm 1.4 auf jeden Fall meine engere Wahl. Meine Frage: Auf was sollte man achten? Es gibt auch SC und MC, und warum gibt es diese kaum gebraucht, oder bin ich blind? Danke schon mal. Euch allen schon mal eine gute Zeit. Möge das Jahr 2021 besser werden als dieses!
  21. Hi All, I am considering buying a Zeiss 35mm lens for my M6 with 0.85 viewfinder. I can not really decide between the 2.8 and the 2.0 version. I would like to have the extra stop of light – but not sure if this would block the view- or rangefinder window. The little bit more money isn’t the problem – has anyone an Idea of the blockage with and without lens hood ? Thanks for thoughts and advice Thomas
  22. Hello everyone. I'm so happy 🙂 Finally, my 🙌 TT Artisan 35/1.4 has arrived on Friday. And I love it. Everything started in this thread I made, asking for recommendations for a new fast partner for my ZM 35/2.8 Biogon. Here a micro resume: my decision a few weeks ago was to get a brand new CV 35/1.2 V3 ... But because of the current pandemic situation, I decided not to travel. Shopping online was not the case because the import taxes are super high in Mexico, so the best option was to wait. Eventually, I figured out how to buy a TT lens on Amazon Prime Mexico for the same BH price ($450usd) plus $38usd for shipping and taxes wow. Not sure why it happened in this way, but it did. The lens arrived with a slight back-focus issue, but I already calibrated with the help and expertise of a kind member with the screwdriver included in the box. It works fully 100% now. I can't believe how a cheap Chinese lens can make me so happy. To be honest with you, I was expecting, somehow, a worst lens. But this was a big happy surprise. That's why I'm writing this post. Once I am lucky enough to try and/or own a 35 Summicron or Summilux (FLE or not), I will tell you the differences and what I like about them. I don't have much experience yet, and I'm not a pixel peeper. But for $450 only, a 35/1.4 that works perfectly with my M10? What I need more? For me, it has been a real bargain: I can feel now what it looks like to shoot w/ a focus tab; there is a before and after lol. I had for a few weeks a 28 Elmarit, but I really was a newbie, and I didn't appreciate the focus tab enough. Much better now when working with zone system, oh yeah! The lens hood is beautiful, small enough to cover the glass but not intrusive. Plus, the small window in the up-left corner it's very helpful for framing. The viewfinder blockage is very acceptable for me; it has never been a problem. I don't see it with the right eye (inside the OVF). I see it with the left eye. 😉😜 Focus is very smooth, and it has a perfect throw. Aesthetics is beautiful, ergonomic is super fine. Lens cap ... 🙌 IQ ... What can I say? You tell me. I don't do tests, detailed reviews with comparisons. I also don't know how to do that. But I do love very much to shoot. And to shoot with the TT 35/1.4 is a joy. The only cons I founded so far are weight. I don't know nobody so masochist that I prefer to carry more weight just for the sake of it. 100 or 200gr less can make the difference, I know. But If I'm happy with absolutely the rest, I can live with that. I didn't have time to shoot with the lens properly; I mean assignment, work or calm street photography, etc. I just took photos at home at my dog, of course 🙂 And on the way to a work meeting, shooting with zone focusing from the window of my car. Once I will use it in different/demanding conditions, I'll let you know if I find some issues or concerns. So far, here a few samples at f/1.4.
  23. M8 Monochrom, Voigtlander 35mm 1.4 @ 1/125 at f5.7 ISO 400 at the Dunkin on the corner of 97th and Madison in Manhattan's Upper East Side.
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