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Found 11 results

  1. To all 24mm summilux owners, can you please share some best sharpness images at wide open. It would be great if you can also include two 10x magnified samples, one at the center and one at the corner.
  2. Hi guys, I haven't find any serious comparison between new Summarit 35mm f2.4 and the older f2.5 version on the net. I've read in some reviews there isn't any difference between the optics and the new version only advertised as aspherical however the older has the same optics ! Is it right? But Ken Hansen a famous Leica dealer believes that there is a huge difference between the optics, design and picture sharpness and Summarit f2.4 can be compared with Summicron f2 in quality. What do you think? have you ever compared or experienced both? I'm have two choices to buy now with the same $1150 price. one is a brand new Summarit f2.5 and the other is a lightly used Summarit f2.4 which has been bought 3 years ago. Should i go for brand new f2.5 or the quality difference worth it to buy the used f2.4?
  3. I have bought a Leica m240 and now I have problems to get a sharp image with my Summicron 2/50 E3571xxx wide open. I have difficulties getting for example sharp eyes. The sharp point is always shifted. Should I get an Viewfinder Magnifier M 1.4x? Or M 1.25x? Or do I have to get a 6 bit coding? I hope I get an answer. Best wishes, Felix
  4. Hello folks! New to the forums. I have a m6 that I'm been using with a 2.5 50mm cron. I'm getting superb images overall, however I feel like there are some that are not coming back sharp or in focus. Especially ones focused at infinity. I'm wondering if it's an issue with my m6 or cron. A few images attached as example. Thoughts?
  5. I started a television channel on photography, "Magic of Light". Two broadcasts a week, every Saturday and Thursday 7 PM Pacific Time). The new episode, "What is Sharpness in Photography?" is up now! Enjoy!
  6. Hi I am a new user of Leica X. I would like to know anyone here tried out the different menu settings for Film Mode, Sharpness, Saturation and Contrast. I have applied "standard" all the time. Wonder what would be a good combination. Also, do these settings affect the DNG file? Regards ML
  7. OK - moment of madness and ignoring all of the warnings about not being able to focus, I caved in and bought a vintage (1960) ELMAR 135mm f/4 for my MM at a ridiculous bargain basement price. I confess that focusing has been a ... challenge. Even with a 1.35x magnifier on the viewfinder the paper-thin DoF at anything much under 5m (17ft) is a problem. Anyway, I have a large number of out-of-focus shots as a result. But a shot of some workmen in a nearby street (where the point of focus matches my intentions) does not look too bad. I've included a 100% crop of the central area. Does it seem a little soft or have I been staring at my screen for too long? Thoughts appreciated. Has anyone else had any experience of this lens and any thoughts on how I might get some consistently good reasonable results? Thanks, Mike Settings were: 1/125s, f/8, ISO 1600 (handheld)
  8. bought vlux4 in may. at infinity, (tele at max) my pictures are not appearing sharp. tried various settingws including intelligent iso, and all three autofocus modes. aff and afc produced soft looking photos, especially of wildlife. any suggestions for how to have best sharp photos?
  9. I have been troubled by my 35cron ASPH and Monochrom. I have discussed about the issue in another thread, but here is a related question I wonder about. Even with very fast lenses, if you - push the focus ring to the very end and focus at infinity - the subject is very far away, eg 1 km shouldn't the subject be at least reasonably focused and sharp, even though the aperture used is f2 or even f0.95, and it is the maximum aperture? Attached is a comparison, 1:1 crop, left is f2 and right is f4. Those structures are at least 1 km away. Note that (mentioned in another thread) in close focusing tests I found this 35cron frontfocuses at least by 1.5cm. I have tried to look for some answer around, reading about hyperfocal distance, infinity, and used some depth of field calculator. From one calculator, with 35mm at f2 and subject distance 1km, DoP near limit should be 20m, far limit infinity, total infinite, hyperfocal distance 20.5m, circle of confusion 0.03mm. I have yet to try to focus my N095 at infinity at f0.95. But based on all the information I have read, I would think this 35cron of mine still has issue, and infinity should really be infinity, which does not need smaller aperture to pull out more focus/sharpness. Or then can a mis-alignment with the rangefinder body affect the inifnity focusing and sharpness in this case? Or can overexposure also affect the result anyhow?
  10. I know, i know - sharpness isn't the most important aspect of making photographs but if one is paying a premium for a lens, it better be good :-) I recently acquired a 50 Summilux ASPH and I've been testing it. I find it truly exception wide open at close distances but once the distance exceeds 3 meters, I find that the quality decreases drastically - even a cheap Summicron C 40 surpasses it on all apertures (I make it sound as if the Summicron C is a poor quality lens but it is stellar in many ways actually). I've been wondering if this is part of the quality of the lens or if perhaps my M9 and the Summilux need calibration? Here are a few pictures of the same scene at the full scope of full-stop apertures starting f1.4, f2, f2.8, f4, f5.6, f8, f11, and f16.
  11. I guess that I am amazed at the IS on this little camera. I have no way to formally test lens resolution, but have developed a set of shots that I take with new cameras and then scan and enlarge in Photoshop to see how well they stand up. Not too scientific, but it gives me an small insight into what is going on. I do the very same pictures over and over. Well, I took my X1 out and took part of the series, but I left the IS "on" and only hand held it. Great pics that witstood quite a bit of enlargment on the computer. Then, I turned the IS "off," placed the X1 on a tripod and took the same pictures, from the same vantage point. The IS was turned off because of other reports that using IS on a tripod actually increases blur. Well, the hand-held images with IS were better than the tripod images! I do not know what to think about that. What really worries me is the degree of enlargement in photoshop equals or exceeds some of my Hasselblad and Rollei images. Maybe I sould simply sell all the heavy-duty stuff and stick with Leica.
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