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Found 20 results

  1. Cosina drops 4 variants of the newest 28mm f/1.5 classic 60-year-old design lens: aluminium, obviously lightweight (250g) and comes in silver and black, and brass (330g), which is solid and heavier and also comes in silver and matte black paint. The latter has a removable focusing pin that fits inside the focusing tab. MFD remains in the classic Voigtlander zone at 0.5m. Hoods are extra. All specs are available on their website. Will you get one? Update by LUF Admin 2024-01-04 Voigtländer just sent me images and specs, you’ll find them here:
  2. Hi guys, this is my very first post over here after reading it since I've got my M3. I was using it with my friend's Summarit 50, while searching for an optimal lens for me. Finally, I've decided to buy a Voigtlander Nokton 50/1.5. Fortunately, I've managed to get one for a test ride (actual the one, I'll buy, if i do so) and I've experience the following situation with it: when I put it on my camera, it doesn't click. Like if the lens release button (or how is it called officially?) doesn't clicks into the lens. So I can take off the lens of the body without pressing the lens release button. Interesting, though, I can't rotate the lens in the opposite direction without pressing the button. What can I do in that case? The guy has an M6 and 240 and he doesn't have that issue. I've tried to unscrew the button and check it on both lenses, but it seems identically the same, till the last micro mm. Here's a video demonstraing the problem: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/10156939/Video%2007-03-15%2012%2049%2029.mov Thanks alot, guys much love
  3. Hi all! I'm planning to get a new 21mm next month. My ideal FL would be a 24mm, but there is not an option with my $1k budget. So I'm getting (happily) a further 21mm. Now, I know huge differences between the two, mostly for size, weight, and speed. I heard great things about the ZM 25, but I don't want to get another Zeiss for now, except for the incredible IQ and performance, I don't like very much Zeiss lenses. I love the idea of a small and light $700 21mm lens, like a pancake. With wide angles (21-24-28), I really like to shoot at f/5.6-8, I never had a fast wide lens, so I never use it less than 2.8 with these FL. But I also like the fact that 1.4 gives about 3 extra stops. What for? Environment portraits with shallow DOP, milky way, indoor low light, etc. It's certainly an advantage, but it comes with enormous size and weight. It's not a lens that you carry all day long, so I'm not afraid about weight and size. I can live with that. I would get of course an external VF. And, by the way, I really love the Nokton lens hood shape 🙂 Beautiful. My question for you guys, if you can share your feedback, it's how both lenses perform in the f/4-f/8 range. This is what I would love to know. The price difference is not so big, so I'could🤷‍♂️ get the Nokton. But if at these apertures performs a little bit worst than Color-Skopar, I don't care to lose three stops, if I have better quality. I like the modern look and sharp images. A minimal background: I own an M10 + 2.8/35 ZM and a 50mm Cron V. I don't have a budget now to get another Leica, so I would love to try out a Voigtlander; it would be my first. Thank you in advance for your opinions.
  4. Hallo miteinander, ich habe gestern mal ein paar Vergleichsfotos eines 50mm Summicron v4 (Canada-Version mit Tigertatze) und eines Voigtländer Nokton 50mm 1.5 (1. Version) gemacht. Der Test hat keinerlei wissenschaftlichen Anspruch, es hat mich einfach selbst interessiert wie sehr sich die Bilder der beiden Unterscheiden. Bei den Bildern handelt es sich um jpgs direkt aus der M240. Natürlich könnte man auch RAWs vergleichen, aber dazu hatte ich gestern keine Lust 😆 Die Bilder sind alle ungefähr bei der Naheinstellgrenze aufgenommen, für einen ausführlichen Vergleich müsste man sich natürlich noch weitere Entfernungen, andere Motive und weitere Lichtsituationen anschauen. Es handelt sich wie gesagt um eine Spielerei, vielleicht hilft es ja jemandem der gerade in einer Kaufentscheidung steckt Leider hat iMovie nur eine Speicherung in 720p zugelassen, aber auch in der höchsten Auflösung der jpgs ist das Ergebnis in meinen Augen das gleiche. Für mich etwas überaschend, ich habe mir einen viel größeren Unterschied im Look erwartet. https://youtu.be/l7j3Yck5rS8 Nachtrag: Video eingebettet
  5. The price for both of these lenses is similar enough that I'm considering them both.. Actually, what I'm considering is more like this. CZ 35mm Biogon f/2 + CV Nokon 40 1.4 or Nokton 35mm 1.2 ASPH II I need a lens for indoors, when visiting friends, etc.. and I need to to be relatively fast, ~ f/1.4 or so. I'm a big fan of Zeiss, the 50 1.4 on my 5D Mk III was my most used lens. I've read fantastic things about the Biogon f/2 and comparing the sharpness of the Biogon @ f/2 and the Nokton 1.2 @ f/2, they're pretty evenly matched (according to what I read via Sean Reid). Obviously the Biogon isn't that fast, so I was thinking of pairing it with a Nokton 40 1.4 for those indoor uses, while the Biogon would be for mainly outdoor usage (I had also tested an 35mm Ultron 1.7 but it was a bit softer wide-open then I was hoping). I'm picking up an M9 + CZ Planar 50mm f/2 shortly (that decision is finally made!), so unfortunately I do not have a ton of money left over for 35mm.. $1500-$1600 is probably it, so unfortunately any fast Leica's are out of reach. Is there anyone out there who has used both the Nokton 35 1.2 II and the Biogon f/2 and decided to keep one or the other (or has any input on the two?) I realize they have different applications, and I'm a bit worried the Nokton 1.2 might be just a large and unwieldy lens that works great in lower-light situations, but end up being not so useful for an every-day, general 35mm lens. I think the Biogon + Nokton 40 1.4 might be a better combo, but it's almost $400-$500 more. Thoughts, comments, suggestions?
  6. I am considering buying a 35 Summilux preasph but have been considering also the 35 Nokton 1.4 from Voigtlander as it comes at a fraction of the price. My main question is whether the Nokton also has that same magic glow at f1.4 as the Summilux preasph. Anyone?
  7. Hi All, Whitch one to buy? I can get them both for the same price. I intend to use only one lens for my M9, so who will give best overall performance? Rgds
  8. Hello all, I am new to the forum and hope that you can help me with some decisions.. I own a M6 and a Nokton 35 1.4 and I want to get a 50mm lens but didnt have the cash for it. i thougt about the new nokton 50 1.5 but here's the story and the question: sometimes a help out at a photo lab which is all digital by now.. we cleaned up the basement and I found a box with old analogue camera stuff in it. My boss said I can have it if I'm interested.. At home I opened the box and couldn't believe it... two Mamiya RB67's with lots of accessoirs, a Minolta SLR, a Leica M3, a Leica M4, a Lunasix3 meter, and a few other things...I am so stoked to be the lucky owner of all that.. I dont think that i will keep that all. of course I will sell at least one of the Mamiyas and maybe one of the Leicas and get myself a 50mm lens instead. so the question is.. which one to keep and which one to sell?? or even sell both because I own a M6 with a meter inside... what do you think? thanks!
  9. From the album: More

    M9, CV 50/1.5

    © www.iantaylor.ca

  10. Hi, Did some searching and couldn't find a clear answer. Do folks with this combo code it as a 50/1.0? Not code it? Something else? Thanks for your thoughts.....
  11. Anyone tried different profiles for this lens? I've tried a few, most obvious choice is the 35mm f/1.4 Pre-ASPH However, I tried using 35mm f/2 ASPH and it seems there is less vignetting than using 35mm f/1.4 Pre-ASPH. Any other findings?
  12. Ich habe ein kleines Fokusproblem mit meinem CV Nokton 35 f/1.2 (Version 1) an meiner M9 und wollte Fragen, ob jemand mit einem ähnlichen Problem Erfahrungen gesammelt hat. Das Objektiv habe ich vor ca. zwei Jahren hier im Forum gekauft und es weist bei zwei verschiedenen M9s den gleichen Fehler auf: 1) An der Naheinstellgrenze (im Bereich 70cm bis ca 90cm) sitzt der Fokus 100% genau. Leicht abgeblendet auf f/1.4 sind Kontrast und Schärfe bereits ausserordentlich gut, sodass man den genauen Fokuspunkt sehr gut bestimmen kann. (Überhaupt ist die Abbildungsleistung ganz ausgezeichnet.) 2) Entfernt man sich vom anfokussierten Punkt taucht ein Backfokus auf. Im Bereich von ca. 2m liegt dieser Backfokus bereits bei 10-11cm. Ein leichtes Vorwärtskorrigieren nach Gefühl bringt mit Glück wesentlich bessere Ergebnisse, ist aber naturgemäß nicht besonders treffsicher. 3) über 4m Distanz ist der Backfokus dann sehr ausgeprägt und lässt sich auch nicht mehr befriedigend nach Gefühl korrigieren. Um das Problem zu lösen, habe ich versuchsweise eine sehr dünne improvisierte Unterlegscheibe vor der letzten Bajonettabdeckung eingelegt. Das hat nach einigem Probieren die Fokusgenauigkeit tatsächlich erheblich verbessert (sie war fast perfekt). Allerdings fokussiert das Nokton dann nicht mehr bis Unendlich, d.h. am Anschlag lassen sich sehr weit entfernte Objekte nicht mehr im Messsucher übereinanderlegen. Nun meine Fragen: 1) Kann ein Voigtländer-Objektiv mit einem solchen Fehler so justiert werden, dass sowohl der Fokus sitzt als auch auf unendlich fokussiert werden kann, OHNE dass etwas an der M9 verändert werden müsste? 2) Hat jemand Erfahrungen mit dem Kameraservice Ostkreuz in Berlin bzw. kann mir jemand eine Reparaturwerkstatt empfehlen, die das Problem kompetent lösen kann? Ich bin für jede Hilfe sehr dankbar! Dennis
  13. Laut photoscala CP+ 2011: Zwei lichtstarke Festbrennweiten von Voigtländer (aktualisiert) | photoscala wurde auf der CP+ Messe ein neues 1.2 35 Nokton für Leica M vorgestellt: Quelle:CP+ 2011: Zwei lichtstarke Festbrennweiten von Voigtländer (aktualisiert) | photoscala PS: erstaunlich das "Nikon" Objektiv ohne das "Leica" mit Chromring - obwohl der Chromring ja historisch eher mit Nikon und Habla Objektiven assoziert ist.
  14. Hi all I just got an M8 and I'm not amazing with technical stuff so was hoping you would be able to advise. I want to get my first lens. Right, should I get the: Voigtlander Nokton 40mm 1.4 (Voigtlander 40mm f1.4 VM Nokton lens - alternative standard VM bayonet | Robert White Photographic Ltd) Or Voigtlander Nokton 35mm 1.4 (Voigtlander 35mm f1.4 VM Nokton Classic | Robert White Photographic Ltd) I'm a little confused about framelines, does the 35mm fit to the inner or outer lines on this example? - M8 Framelines from the M8 instruction manual | Flickr - Photo Sharing! Where would the 40mm fit, inside the inner lines but with no real guide? How big a difference will there be in terms of how zoomed in the lens is (I don't know the right terminology, but understand) I understand the crop factor is 1.33? I am used to using a digilux 3 with 30mm sigma 1.4, on which I think the crop factor is 2. Any other opinions I would be interested to hear. I care about size, weight, ease of use and of course quality of picture. Cheers Steve.
  15. Hallo, Der Titel sagt es fast schon. Mein gebraucht gekauftes CV Nokton 50mm 1.5 hat das bekannte Problem entwickelt: zuerst leichtes Spiel des Blendenringes, und nun Klappergeräusch im Inneren (lose Schraube), und der Fokusring bleibt auf halbem wege stecken. Kann mir jemand einen guten Reperaturservice in Deutschland empfehlen? Danke vielmals
  16. Auch dieses mal würde ich mich über eure Kritik und eure Kommentare sehr freuen und verbleibe deswegen wie immer mit freundlichsten Grüßen Rafael
  17. I'm having quite a dilemma. I currently shoot with a Leica M8 and an M7 with a 35cron ASPH and a couple of screw mount lenses (pretty bad ones). I'm thinking of purchasing a lens/lenses for the summer. These are my options: Option 1 Voigtlander Nokton 50mm f/1.1 and Voightlander Heliar 15mm f/4.5 Option 2 Leica Summilux 50mm f/1.4 (pre-asph/some older model) Its the two lenses v.s. one dilemma. Does anyone have experiences with any of the lenses? and would it be wise to purchase 2 non-Leica lenses rather than one? I just have this feeling that using non-Leica lenses are just not right and defeats the purpose of using a Leica.. What do people think?
  18. Beware!! I bought a Voigtlander 50mm Nokton thru' Amazon USA, August 23rd of 2010. I am writing as of December 2010. Amazon acted as agent for Adorama NYC. The lens has hardly been used and has never been damaged but has mysteriously gone out of calibration (severe back focus wide open) while I was working in severe cold in Poland and needs warrant repair/service. Adorama NYC, contacted thru' Amazon, will not take the lens back for service and advise return to distributor in the USA for repair. The distributor for Voigtlander in the USA (CameraQuest of Los Angeles), take the position that unless the lens was purchased from them, they will not handle it. Amazon so far are only able to say "sorry". So I have spent $1,000.00 for a lens that cannot receive warranty svc from anybody. Adorama won't take responsibility and, as yet, neither will Amazon. The only website available is Voigtlander's in Germany who advise contacting CameraQuest. And round and round. I have purchased from CameraQuest previously and they have always been very helpful but not this time as I didn't buy from them. I suppose I can use the lens as a paperweight because it is useless wide open without calibration or pay for an independent repair which angers me after only 4 months of ownership. The moral of this story is don't buy Voigtlander lenses from Amazon or Adorama. Shame on both companies.
  19. Just to inform. Cosina has announced a new Nokton 50mm F 1.1: ƒmƒNƒgƒ“50mm F1.1 lens cut http://www.cosina.co.jp/seihin/voigt/v-lens/v-l-m/index.html
  20. Barbican, Plymouth. Earthrace. MP | Nokton 40/1.4 SC | Plus-X @ 400iso | Diafine 3+3 | via Coolscan V Ed & Lightroom [ATTACH]127991[/ATTACH]
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