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  1. Hello everyone! First post – I should warn you that this might be a dumb question, but it's one that I can't seem to find an answer for. Recently, I had an M3 serviced by Youxin Ye (YYe Camera) via the rush option, and it was returned to me quite quickly. At first inspection, everything seemed good. The camera had been experiencing shutter capping, which was no longer an issue, and the rangefinder was clean and adjusted appropriately. The camera itself, a double-stroke with buddha ears, is in pretty nice condition, with almost all of its original vulcanite. More recently, I got my hands on a TTL shutter tester (PulseHPT 3-in-1 Shutter Speed Tester, configured with the light sensor). Based on the shutter tester's readings, the 1/1000, 1/500, and 1/250 speeds are at approximately 1/300, 1/200, and 1/140. All other speeds are accurate, within 1/4EV or less. I've also tested the shutter speed tester with a 500CM and electronically controlled cameras like the Pentax LX, and those cameras do not exhibit the same issue of slow top speeds when used with the shutter tester. I emailed Mr. Ye, and he stated "The speed for a Leica mechanical camera is an approximation, not exact," and that "Even a new Leica MP, due to Leica adjusted speeds in too tight tolerance, we have to readjust the speeds after a few months the camera left the factory, to prevent capping problems." Is it true that the tolerances for the top speeds of Leica cameras, even a brand new one, are this flexible? I thought that adjustment of the shutter speeds, as part of the CLA, is supposed to bring them into spec, not just get it to some degree of 'functional.' Otherwise, what would be the point? (Photos of said camera attached for eye candy)
  2. I finally bought a mechanical Leica, a camera that I always envied, for its simplicity and especially for its luminous and clear viewfinder. I already own a Leica M7 and a Leica M10, but, as you probably know already, the M7 isn’t exactly a mechanical Leica. I already shot a complete roll of Portra 400 and can hardly wait for the lab to send me the scans. I must confess I don’t master yet the Sunny16 rule (I am working on it) and therefore had to buy a separate lightmeter, which, when taking the shots, I am checking rather often with my iPhone App (myLightMeter) for accuracy (so far so good). I used both a 50mm and 35mm Summicron. Any recommendations on any other lenses to use with this beautiful camera would be appreciated.
  3. Help me, i have body Leica M3 silver DS, but yellow point faded, i cant see and focus. How to fix it ??? Thank all IMG_8219.heic
  4. Hi everyone ! I’m very happy to be part of the family of the Leica now, I just received my very first Leica. I decided to purchased this M4 in a stunning condition. The thing is the next day I realised that was something little bit « strange » just between the flash bulb and the backdoor (check the picture), that there is a part of the top plate looks bent a little, is not huge on the picture but you can notice it and the backdoor is clicking a little bit as well.. Do you think that is normal or it could be an issue? I would appreciate any recommendations Thank y’all !
  5. My collection Leica M3 + summicron 50 rigid bought together in 1962 still remains an L-seal and "B" letter on lens mount. From my knowledge this mean Camera and lens likely never open for service since 1991. Box and all original paper still there. but, the problem is the view finder is blackout and show only focus pad and frame line. Do I need to repair or sell this as a original condition? or How about if I send them to Konton for repair and repaint to black, would be better? Anyone knowing about letter "B" on back lens mount? Thank you so much for all helping.
  6. In this video I will show you how to load the film in the Leica M2 and Leica M3, the procedure requires a minimum of time and precision but it is not difficult, follow the instructions carefully and you will have no problems. https://youtu.be/7xw2Zk8tjjA
  7. Hello, I was wondering if anyone had any experience with knowing if it is possible to modify a Leica M3 DS eyepiece. I know that SS Leica M3’s have a larger eyepiece area with the DS Leica M3’s containing what appears to be an ‘inner’ smaller metal ring. I was curious if it would be possible to remove this inner ring on a DS so that the eyepiece view is more larger like that of a SS M3. Soon I may be able to purchase a Leica M3 DS example, hence the curiosity. any input greatly appreciated. thankyou for your time everyone.
  8. Continuing my trawl through my archives, I found this from Chinese New Year in London 1998. I had been shooting with my first Leica (a M3) for less than a year at this stage. Film was Fuji Neopan 400 and the lens was an old Summicron 50mm f2. Gerry
  9. From the album: Japan with Leica M3

    Camera: Leica M3 Lens: NOKTON 35mm f1.2 ASPH VM II Film : ILFORD Delta 400 Pro Shot in Kyoto, Japan

    © MINOCAME

  10. From the album: Japan with Leica M3

    Camera: Leica M3 Lens: Summilux 35mm (2nd ver.) PreASPH Film: Fujicolor C200 Shot in Arashiyama, Kyoto, Japan

    © MINOCAME

  11. I recently was given a Leica M3 and in my first role, the photos appear to have double and triple exposed by accident. Most negatives have no space in-between them and the edges have overlapped. The photos don't overlap the sprocket holes. Has anyone else experienced this or have any suggestions on how to fix it? Or do I just have to get it serviced? Whilst shooting there was no odd feeling whilst winding the film on, it was all very smooth. I did a test with a dud roll of film by setting the camera on Bulb mode, While the shutter was open I drew out the frame onto the negative with a pen, wound the film on, and repeated this until the role was done. In this test, all the photo frame lines came out perfectly and none of them overlapped. I'm baffled as to what occurred in my initial role. Photos are of Glasgow, Scotland
  12. Guest

    "Neue" Kamera - Leica M3

    Hallo zusammen, da ich mich über meine Neuerwerbung sehr freue, muss ich dies hier kund tun. Ich habe zuletzt etliche Jahre mit einer Leica X1 fotografiert, dann bin ich vor 5 Jahren auf eine M9 umgestiegen. Damit fotografiere ich regelmäßig und es macht mir eine Menge Spaß. Als Erbstück von meinen Eltern (meine Mutter war Fotografin) habe ich eine Leica IIIc (Baujahr 1949) mit einem Summitar (von 1951) 5 cm, 1:2, die sich - damit Objektiv - in einem sehr schönen und voll funktionsfähigen Zustand befindet. Damit habe ich in den letzten Wochen 2 Filme belichtet, um zu sehen, ob ich überhaupt noch analog und jede Automatik fotografieren kann. Es hat funktioniert. Da die Schraubleica nicht wirklich einfach in der Handhabung ist (Sucherfenster und Entfernungsmesser separat) habe ich über die Anschaffung einer M3 oder M2 nachgedacht. Für die M3 spricht, dass Sie über einen besonders großen Fenster verfügt. Für die M2 sprach ihr Aussehen (sehr schlicht - sehr schön) und die Tatsache, dass man mit ihr problemlos ein 35 mm Objektiv nutzen kann. Nun ist es eine M3 - Kauf per Ebay (trotz grundsätzlicher Bedenken) geworden und ich kann meine Leica-Optiken (meistgenutzt: 50 mm) für den Oldtimer nutzen. Ich bin gespannt darauf, sie in der Hand zu halten und den ersten Film zurück zu erhalten. Beste Grüße Dieter M.
  13. hey guys.... I have inherited a Leica M3 and i dont know much at all about it. i keep seeing terms like "single throw/double throw" and dont know how to properly identify it. Im not even sure if im going to keep it. With that said, can anyone help me out with the details of what i have as far as the camera and the lens? and perhaps what its worth? heres what i know. Leica M3 purchased 1959 serial body - M3 - 966 148 serial lens - 1597506 thanks in advance, Ray
  14. so, my first leica ever and I am already messing it up )) I got this M3 produced in 1955. just a few weeks ago and it was doing well not doing much in a leather pouch in someones basement. Started shooting with it and fell in love like a girl. Shortly after pulling the camera out of that leather pouch and carrying it around unprotected the vulcanite started to fall apart... Didn't have time to wait for new skin as I am going to the states in two weeks (i live in Croatia) so I just re skinned it myself... few pics... you can see the cracked vulcanite here... Scraped it down... after that comes the removal of old glue... and the temporary new skin... I used this leather for my girlfriends tobacco pouch so now they match... not really sure why I did that... she won't be using this camera )) I wouldn't do this for someone else, I just needed to fix it in a hurry... a lot of small mistakes but here it is... cheers, S
  15. I was in Hong Kong last week and paid a visit to the David Chan Photo Shop off Nathan Road in Kowloon. Mr. Chan has been selling cameras in HK since the early 60’s and has had the shop at 16 Kimberly Rd since 1972. He is without a doubt one of the most extraordinary collectors and sellers of vintage camera equipment on the planet, with a breathtaking knowledge of all the great marques, particularly Leica. He is more an obsessive collector than a camera vendor and keeps a deliberately low profile -- no website, no facebook page – a virtual ghost in the digital world for which he has little regard. But that hasn’t stopped him from becoming world famous. He is even featured in the Lonely Planet Guide to HK as well as Time Out HK: Time Out Hong Kong | Big Smog | Hongkonger: David Chan. But for a really great profile of him, check out Emilio Brizzi’s blog: On Photography And More: Meeting Mr. David Chan in Kowloon. I spent a couple of hours in the shop with the elegantly besuited Mr. Chan, his staff and the rather eccentric and passionate longtime customers of his who clearly treat the shop as a second home. (One of them insisted that Leica hadn't made a great lens since the 1930's!). Mr. Chan could quickly see that I was not a collector of high-end rarities. Nonetheless, he showed me a few of his many treasures, all lovingly wrapped in shrink wrap. And in the end, I couldn’t resist buying a lens: a 1966 Leica M 35mm 1.4 v2 lens with “eyes” to be precise. It was in good condition and perfect for my M3. When I told Mr. Chan I was from Toronto, he smiled and pointed out that my new lens had been made in Midland Ontario, near Toronto, in 1966. It was fitting then that I would be returning the lens to its birthplace. Who knows how many adventures it had had in the intervening 48 years on its journey from Toronto to Hong Kong? Mr. Chan smiled again and said, almost conspiratorially, that the Midland lenses were better built than the German ones. He invoked the sacred name of Leica designer extraordinaire Walter Mandler, who ran Leica’s Midland operation and who created the lens I had just purchased, among others. The transaction completed, Mr. Chan had one of his staff take a photo of me, Mr. Chan and one of his longtime customers. We shook hands and I walked out into the neon-lit, crowded buzzy streets of Kowloon and... took my first picture with my new lens. All in all a wonderful experience!
  16. Hi guys, this is my very first post over here after reading it since I've got my M3. I was using it with my friend's Summarit 50, while searching for an optimal lens for me. Finally, I've decided to buy a Voigtlander Nokton 50/1.5. Fortunately, I've managed to get one for a test ride (actual the one, I'll buy, if i do so) and I've experience the following situation with it: when I put it on my camera, it doesn't click. Like if the lens release button (or how is it called officially?) doesn't clicks into the lens. So I can take off the lens of the body without pressing the lens release button. Interesting, though, I can't rotate the lens in the opposite direction without pressing the button. What can I do in that case? The guy has an M6 and 240 and he doesn't have that issue. I've tried to unscrew the button and check it on both lenses, but it seems identically the same, till the last micro mm. Here's a video demonstraing the problem: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/10156939/Video%2007-03-15%2012%2049%2029.mov Thanks alot, guys much love
  17. With up to $1000 budget, which one would you buy to use and keep? M2, M3 or M4 And are there variations to watch for or watch out for? Also, which starter lens? Thanks J
  18. Hello everyone! I am new to the photography hobby and I have inherited a Leica M3 as well as a bunch of accessories. I am pretty sure I have figured out what some of the things are, such as the Leicameter MC, the 50mm Summicron f/2 Rigid, 135mm Hektor f/4.5 and the 21mm Super-Angulon f/4 lenses, but there are quite a few things that I am stuck on. I am hoping that you guys can help me ID some of these items! I have an idea as to what some of these may be, but some clarification would be nice. Your help would be appreciated TIA
  19. Found this M3 in perfect shape, but was confused with the 1-2-4-8 speed dial. According to the serial code, it is made in 1956. Therefore it should have a scientific 1-2-5-10 dial, right? The seller claims it is original though. And I see no reason a camera in such shape needs the speed dial replaced. I'm new to this forum. Any help would be appreciated.
  20. Shot with Leica M3/Summicron 2/50mm
  21. Shot at a local Starbucks Leica M3/Summicron 2/50mm
  22. Shot last year with Leica M3/Summicron 2/50mm
  23. Hi, I just have a M3 camera here to try out. But I have not really any idea how to use a camera without light meter. So the question is on one hand - how to use a M3 without a ight meter to get the right exposure (ISO Aperture and Speed) - and on the other hand this is not sticky to a M3 but how to use any camera without light meter. Thanks for any help which is highly appreciated. Any links to online help also welcome - I already asked google but did not do a great job. Regards AHAB
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