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Showing results for tags 'leica m3'.
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Hi, I was wondering, is it possible to diy repaint the serial numbers? I have a chrome M3 but there was some black paint missing at the Leica logo and other parts. What is the best way to repaint it? I thought maybe use a fine permanent marker and follow the inscription? Ideas? Thanks
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Hallo zusammen, nachdem ich im "Kaviar"- Thread zurecht darauf hingewiesen wurde, daß dort eigentlich keine Beispielbilder zu posten sind, eröffne ich diesen Thread. Also zeigt, was eure M3 hergibt!
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Test roll shooting Kodak Portra for the first time last September
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First time shooting Kodak Portra last September
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Leica M3 and Summicron 2/50mm
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Shot with the Leica M3 and Summicron 2/50mm
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Shot with Leica M3/Summicron 2/50mm
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Shot at a local Starbucks Leica M3/Summicron 2/50mm
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Shot last year with Leica M3/Summicron 2/50mm
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Shot with Leica M3 and Summicron 2/50mm
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Shot with Leica M3 and Summicron 2/50mm
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Hallo alle zusammen, bin neu hier im Forum und das ist mein erster Eintrag. Habe seit kurzem eine M3 von meinem Opa bekommen, die aber ca. 20 Jahre unbenutzt in Keller rumlag. Hoffe das hat ihr nichts angetan. Nun aber schon zum ersten Problem. Soweit ich weiß, leuchtet die M3, je nach aufgesetztem Objektiv, automatisch den passenden Leuchtrahmen im Sucher ein. Wenn ich jetzt aber ein 50mm F2 aufstecke, leuchtet sie gar keinen Leuchtrahmen ein. Und wenn ich denn Hebel an der Vorderseite der M3 umlege, damit dieser manuell den 50mm Leuchtrahmen einblendet, verschwindet der eingeblendete Rahmen wieder sobald ich denn Hebel loslasse.. Kennt jemand von euch das Problem? Ist das ein Schaden der (kostspielig) behoben werden muss? Danke im Voraus Lg Jakob
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Hi, I just have a M3 camera here to try out. But I have not really any idea how to use a camera without light meter. So the question is on one hand - how to use a M3 without a ight meter to get the right exposure (ISO Aperture and Speed) - and on the other hand this is not sticky to a M3 but how to use any camera without light meter. Thanks for any help which is highly appreciated. Any links to online help also welcome - I already asked google but did not do a great job. Regards AHAB
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Liebe Analog-Experten und M-Liebhaber, im Anflug sentimentaler Liebhaberei kaufte ich kürzlich eine schöne M3 von 1965. Die Verschlusszeiten klingen gut, die Kamera hat lediglich ein paar normale Abnutzungsspuren. Ich möchte die Kamera übrigens nicht irgenwo in eine Vitrine stellen sondern wirklich benutzen. Nun frage ich mich, ob der Entfernungsmesser richtig justiert ist.... und hier brauche ich Euren Rat, denn als "Analog-Neuling" fehlt es mir hier an Fachwissen und Erfahrung. Angeflanscht habe ich ein Elmarit 2.8 / 50 (collapsible) aus den 80er Jahren. Dabei ist mir aufgefallen, daß die Entfernungseinstellung im Messucher bis ca. 1m "geht", darunter (bis 0,7m auf der Objektiv-Skala) bleibt das Schnittbildfenster einfach bei der 1m-Einstellung stehen..... und wenn ich ohne angesetztes Objektiv durch den Messucher schaue und etwas "unendlich" weit weg anvisiere, dann ist das Schnittbild auch nicht deckungsgleich. Könnte es sein, daß das bei den alten Kameras "normal" ist und man damals mit den Objektiven nicht näher als 1m fokussieren konnte? Wie kann man (oder vielleicht sogar ich?) den Entfernungsmesser einstellen? Oder kann das nur eine Fachwerkstatt machen? Herzlichen Dank für Eure Tips und Hinweise Christian aus Frankfurt
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Paris 1997 Leica M3 + 50mm Summicron f2 and Fuji Neopan 400PR © Gerry Walden/gwpics.com When, oh when, are we going to get Fuji Neopan 400PR back! Gerry
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Hello. I was offered a Leica M3 black paint. The seller refused to give a price buy said he was open to offers. Since I'm not, by any means, an expert, I'm not sure about a good price for it. What would you think would be a fair price for it? I have attached some pictures.
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It was in 1997 when my wife and I first visited New England. I wanted to attend the annual Star Island ‘escape’ of the New Hampshire Society of Photographic Artists, and it was to celebrate our 28th wedding anniversary. Both of us had always wanted to visit the area for the fall colours, so we scraped the money together and did the trip. One of our days was spent travelling the road which was the old route of i95 before it became a multi-lane highway, to discover a little of rural America north of Boston. It turned out to be a fascinating drive with abandoned wood-built hotels, and large empty barns, both of which had died when the traffic deserted the road for the new superhighway. During our travels we came across a car lot selling rusty old heaps of autos which I did not understand why anybody would pay the price, but which I enjoyed enjoyed photographing. Today there is a programme here on cable TV in the UK called “American Pickers” and I understand the American restoration market more, and therefore the old-time autos sat by the roadside. As it was, I was just fascinated to see them and photograph some of them.I was new to Leica having bought my M3 double-stroke about 6 months earlier, and was using Kodak T400CN film so I could get it processed as I went to avoid x-ray problems at the airport. The lens was a beat-up 50mm Summicron f2 because it was what I could afford. I have just been going through the archives, and I particularly like this image. I may be wrong but I reckon the price would now be about 4 times what is shown here.If anybody knows the make and model of the auto, or the location of the car lot I would like to know.Hope you like the image!Gerry
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Hi everyone I'm looking at buying an M3 but was wondering if there are any specific serial numbers I should be looking at and why. I saw this blogpost with the best M3 serial numbers, but this is a very limited batch so I doubt I'll find any of those. Any other (larger) batches I should be looking at?
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Hi, new poster here!I recently got the chance to buy a Leica M3 Single Stroke body for $511. The body has been recently CLA'd by arguably the best repairman in my country.The thing is, it has its problems. Aside from a few dents and scratches, there's also what I think is separation on the viewfinder (my friend thinks it's de-silvering). When I look through the viewfinder (of course with a lens attached), it is clear and the rangefinder patch is contrasty.Is the camera worth it? Is the black 'separation' thing on the viewfinder repairable? Photos here: https://imgur.com/a/RgdhIF1 -
I have recently been told that the earlier M2's (sub 1mn serial numbers produced in the initial couple of years from 1958) with button rewind have different rangefinder mechanics/setting of frames (not framelines) and shutter break which make them inferior in general and more expensive/difficult to repair than later 1mn+ serial number M2's with lever rewind and self-timer (I was told that the same statement holds true for earlier double stroke M3's vs. later single stroke M3's. I am wondering if a lot of people share this opinion and whether there is a clear and undisputed preference towards later models (although generally speaking later models by default would have gone through any tweaking process from the earlier models). I also ask whether anyone in this forum has had a bad experience with sub-1mn serial number M2's. Thanks.
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I just bought an M3 with a goggled Summaron f3.5, and it obviously hasn't been used in decades. I live in New York City, and was thinking of trying out Panorama Camera in Manhattan--has anyone had any experiences with Leica repairs at this camera repair shop? The inside of the Summaron also looks a bit cloudy--not sure what it is exactly, but is it common to have the inside lens elements successfully cleaned? It looks scratch-free... I am very, very excited about getting this camera up and running, it's my first Leica!
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My M3 often requires a small third wind of the advance lever before I can press the shutter release. Is that normal? Am I not winding far and forcefully enough on the first two winds?
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I've recently acquired this M3 and 50mm Summicron. I put a test roll of film through it before buying, and it seems to work great at every shutter speed. I've ordered a B+W UV filter to protect the lens, and the strap that leica currently makes to carry it when not in my bag. Anyways, I was wondering if I should get a lens cap too; I've heard of bright sunlight burning holes in shutter curtains and causing fogging in bright sunlight, or is this something that can be avoided by stopping the lens all the way down?
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Good afternoon everybody I realise I am about to ask a question which may be impossible to answer, so apologies in advance. I have been offered to buy an M3 with a 35mm f/3.5 Summaron (with goggles). The M3 has a slight water damage to the viewfinder. Also the 1, 2 and 5 shutter times don't work. Needless to say the price is pretty good. I guess that instead of a CLA, this one needs CLAR(epair). Does anyone have experience in how much this might cost? I am in Holland and I understand Will van Manen is reliable. But I'm also interested generally what such an operation might cost in the various countries you are in. Cheers Philip
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Hi everyone, greetings from Tokyo, Japan. I am new to this forum, but I have question regarding these 2 match up (M3 and Google Summicron 35mm). Somehow, they're not vertically aligned when it's focused. My M3 is fine with other lenses, even with the DR summicron 50mm. Only this google summicron 35 that is not vertically aligned. Reminds me of my Hexar RF with some Leica lens as they're also not in vertically aligned (but it's fine with hexanon lens). Has anyone experience the same thing as I am? Thank you in advance for your help and advice.
