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Found 7 results

  1. I was mulling over the question of shooting Tri-X at different speeds and was wondering if during a roll, what would happen if I found myself needing to shoot at high ISO and then much lower ISO. So, I took these shots in my office at work. I developed them in Diafine at the normal 3 minute time. My scanner automatically compensated for any major deviation in lightness or darkness. No...they are not great and yes, I have some surge marks but it does answer the question for me; " what if I have to go indoors to shoot a few shots at 1600 when I've already shot most of my roll of Tri-X at 400??" I just thought it was interesting information. I'm NOT a pro, I'm NOT claiming some special insight...just putting this here for information.
  2. After a siesta from film for over a decade I'm getting the itch to go back. Unfortunately I can't find any labs that would develop B/W locally any more let alone finding B/W film. I have to order my developers and fixers and I would love to have some Diafine but can't find anyone who wants to ship it internationally to Kuwait. Any idea on who can ship it?
  3. I develop my film in diafine 2 bath developer. I keep this developer in brown glass bottles. Before making fresh set of solutions I would like to clean out the bottles. What can I use to do this cleaning?
  4. Fotohuis ROVO in the Netherlands used to sell diafine. It was apparently in the sales out, but he seems to be out of stock. Is there any other place where you buy diafine? I've grown quite used to it.
  5. I decided to empty out my bottles of Diafine A and B. Before pouring in new solutions of diafine I want to have clean bottles. The A bottle is clean, the B bottle has several patches of deposit. Hard to get by with a brush, so I tried with warm water and soda, warm water and cleaning vinigar. No result. Does any of you had experience with solving this problem. I don't want to throw away a perfectly good brown glass bottle.
  6. I'm using fomapan 100 with diafine. I exposed the film for iso 200 up till now, but I guess it's better to overexpose , so I will try iso 100. I am then scanning the film with a Nikon Coolscan 5000 ED. I scan to nef raw files. I noticed that one can set a lot of things with the Nikon Scan software. Now, what is your experience in this: should I scan for a flat contrast, with lot's of detail (and use photoshop to create the look I want) , or would it be better to scan immediately for the desired effect? Probably I am trying to find a setting that will do justice to most of the negatives, so I can batch scan the films.
  7. Barbican, Plymouth. Earthrace. MP | Nokton 40/1.4 SC | Plus-X @ 400iso | Diafine 3+3 | via Coolscan V Ed & Lightroom [ATTACH]127991[/ATTACH]
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