Search the Community

I'm left handed and I think that makes my left eye dominant but not sure. Anyway when I bring the Q to my eye, instinct is to use my left eye. Given the design, I have to think that 'rangefinders' are meant for right eyed use, allowing both eyes in use? Is it possible to train myself to use right eye and keep left eye open? Any one have experience with this problem? I think I've read that gun owners are told to keep both eyes open when using a scope? Is it not worth worrying about, and just use my left eye with right closed?

In the last few weeks I've noticed an increase of fuzzy shots coming from my SL. I was mostly using M lenses adapted using the Leica M-L initially, shutter speeds were kept more than high enough. Focus was acheived using the peaking/zoom, which I've always had as a successful technique. So I thought initially it was me not paying attention to my camera skills etc. Then today, I was using a Panasonic 20-60mm and I changed the focus point to the single cross-hair and ensured I took at least two of every scene, and mostly this worked, with me taking the first shot then recomposing the focus point to get the second shot. There were still a few occasions where the fuzzy look was still present. I'm not sure what has changed or why the issues all of a sudden. The attached images show the fuzzy look (orange car - with M lens) and the hotrod with the Panasonic 20-60 - 100% zooms provided. I did a search and couldnt find any related issues, hence this post

Hello folks! New to the forums. I have a m6 that I'm been using with a 2.5 50mm cron. I'm getting superb images overall, however I feel like there are some that are not coming back sharp or in focus. Especially ones focused at infinity. I'm wondering if it's an issue with my m6 or cron. A few images attached as example. Thoughts?

Hey! The viewfinder of my M8 doesn't show the focusing from 0.7 to 0.5 meters with Nokton 35mm f/1.2 II . It just gets stuck at 0.7 meters. Is that a known issue?

Friends: A question on focus on the M9-P: With the 50mm Sumilux M shooting at f/1.4 I cannot get sharp focus inside 1.5 meters from the subject. I tried: Using the patches to align as perfectly as possible Setting camera on tripod and a tape measure to determine distance and set focus. Both methods don't focus where it should. As a result f/1.4 and its "beautiful bokeh" seem to be unattainable. How can I get good results? Thanks amigos, Migs

I love my D2, but unfortunately I found a problem in Digilux 2 manual focus @ infinity. Basically manual focus @ infinity will not focus on infinity at all. Here is my test: [1] Put camera on tripod, set aperture @ F2, set zoom @ 28 mm, and set focus distance at infinity. I took a picture, and I found both foreground and background are blur, and I don't even know where is the focus. [2] Set focus @ AF, point to infinity, and took second picture when AF indicate light is green. this picture is very sharp, both background and foreground, which is expected. It looks like this problem only occur at bigger aperture (F2, F2.8, F4), when I use F5.6 and F8, manual focus @ infinity seems work fine, I got sharp image. I think this issue will make manual "zone focus" difficult. I am not sure if this happened to me, or someone else also experienced the same issue? thanks a lot!!

I had my lenses adapted to the M9 (e.g. distance / focus of each lens was syncronised to this particular M9) now I am going to buy a M240, I am wondering if the distance / focus will be correct to the M240 too Does anyone have appropriate experince ? Thank you very much for your reply

Hello, I am reading this forum for quite a while now and finally got my own Leica M6 about two weeks ago. I bought the camera from a German dealer on Ebay, optically it's in perfect condition and I was very happy... until I got my first scans back. I am experiencing the worst front focus issues I've ever had with any camera. After the first roll I thought it's me, after the second roll I was suspicious and then shot the third roll testing the focus. Except for the minimal focusing distance, every single image is off. And not only slightly. Now my question to the Leica pro's here in the forum: How do I know the camera is the problem and not the lens? The rangefinder alignment "seems" fine - It's ok on infinity and the vertical alignment looks great. I did the mirror test (sticking tape on a mirror, focusing the lens on 1m, then bringing the tape in focus and focusing on the lens - and it does show 2m). If I focus on the moon (infinity), it's perfectly in focus. I only have a Nokton 35mm 1.4 which I bought new from a dealer. Is it possible that the rangefinder is totally off even though it "looks" ok? I am very reluctant to return the M6 because it's in such great condition optically. The only issues I could find is the long times are a little too long and dust specs in the finder. Everything else seems to be ok. Any ideas are really appreciated. Thank you guys! Johnny

Hi everybody, I'm texting cause I need your help and wisdom. I've noticed that on my Summicron 35mm f2 (made Canada) when I turn the focus ring to the closest distance possible the ring doesn't stop exactly at 0,7m but goes beyond, while instead when turned to the farther distance possible it perfectly stops at infinte symbol. I wonder if this could affect the focusing. Is it normal and common on every Cron? Thanks to all of those who will help me )

In his current newsletter, TvO reviews the new Leica 75 Noctilux lens. I don't have an M, but a guy can always dream. Anyway, I'm cutting and pasting his interesting thoughts about focusing, which apply to any digital camera, really, not just a range finder, if it has a manual focus mode (and even if it has peak focusing): http://overgaard.dk/Leica-75mm-Noctilux-f-1-25-review-and-sample-photographs.html The secret sauce to focusing with a rangefinder is: be sloppy! Focus like you know how to do it, be reckless about it. The harder you try, the harder it gets. It means that you turn the focus ring (usually clockwise, as seen from behind the camera), and the moment the focus matches, take the photo. Then either move slightly back and forth with the body until you see that it matches again, then take another photo. Or, turn the focusing ring counter-clockwise back, then clockwise again until you see it matches, then take the photo. Don't turn the focusing ring back and forth to "nail the focus" or "test where the most focus is", because it's not an old safe that will open magically when you hit the right combination. Trust what you see, and when you see that the focus matches, press the shutter. The result of this will likely be that some photos will be in focus, and some won't. But you just need one that is in focus, and that's why you may take a few to make sure you get it. Don't think that it's supposed to always work with just one single photo, and that if you can't do that, you have failed the test to enter the Leica Cult. Here's how it works: You put on the EVF to get a Live View of the scene, and as you focus, the EVF 10X's the view so you can really nail the focus. Then you take the picture. Ah, this is the way to make sure you don't mess up this focusing thing, you think. What do you know? Some times that works, some times that doesn't work. "That's strange", you think. "I really have no talent for this manual focusing". Stop blaming yourself. Take some more photos instead! What happens is that you focus, and before you take the photo, the subject moves, or you do, or you accidentally turn the focusing ring a tad as you take the photo. It doesn't really matter what it is, but that's the way it is. To make sure you get one or two that are as much in focus as intended, you take a few and re-focus for each. You don't refocus, take the photo, then check the screen of the camera. No, you focus, take the photo, refocus and take another one. Never check that screen for other than the exposure. Even when it is really sharp, it doesn't look as sharp on the screen. And often when it looks really sharp on the screen, it isn't (but is just high contrast that makes the picture on the screen look really crisp). Let's repeat: Be sloppy. Focus, take a photo, re-focus and take another. Keep doing just that.

I am curious to learn if anyone else is having problems with the Leica SL when shooting moving subjects. When shooting a moving subject, like a dog coming towards the camera, the Focus Point (green rectangle in viewfinder) jumps around and does not stick to the subject - it is almost like the Focus Mode is set to “Face Detection” (which it is not). If I continue to hold the shutter release half way down, & slightly recompose the image, the Focus Point tries to stay on the spot that it originally focused upon. Is there a way to set up the Auto Focus so that the Focus Frame/Point stays on the selected moving subject, rather than it jumping around the frame sporadically? Here are the camera settings I started with, though I have experimented with changing all of them. The problem is not quite as bad using the Single Focus Mode rather than the Continuous Mode. Focus Mode: Auto Focus Continuous (or Single Focus) Drive Mode: Continuous Medium Auto Focus Field Size: “Field” (or single point or zone) Auto Focus Mode: Dynamic (Tracking) Thanks, Mark Weidman

About a year ago I bought a mint, used 28mm Summicron - the current ASPH version, but not coded. But the focusing ring, which turns smoothly off the camera, as it should, has become increasingly stiff when fitted to a camera body, both M8 and M2, so it's the lens, not the camera that's a problem. It's now quite difficult to focus accurately due to the stiffness of the focusing. Of course I could simply send it off to Leica in Germany, but this would be a waste of time and money if it's simply a question of tightening a screw that's coming loose. It seems that, as the lens is tightened against the lens mount, something is pressing on the focusing ring. Do any of you technical people know what I should be looking for? David

hey folks, I bought a used m6 w/50mm summicron off ebay -- my first Lieca! -- for my 30th birthday. The m6 body seems like it's in great condition, but the 50mm lens has two issues. the first is fungus -- ouch. I've bought a bunch of silica packs & am trying to burn out the fungus w/sunlight (leaving it on the windowsill on sunny days). but the real question is the focus -- it feels "wrong" to me, but maybe it's normal.. anyway -- it was built in 1994. the serial number is 3631585. it's black, has a tab, is marked with "50" on the barrel, no built in hood & looks thinner & lighter than the 50 for sale on the leica site now. hopefully all that will help folks identify which version of the 50 I have (there seem to be so many). When I focus by gripping the entire barrel & twisting, it's pretty nice & smooth when held vertically -- esp when the lens is off the camera. but when I use the tab (with the lens back on the camera), the focus starts to feel a little "gritty" & "stiff" & kind of sticks a little -- esp as I get close to infinity. this makes fine tuning the focus difficult and jerky. when I take the lens off the camera and hold it diagonally down & twist the barrel, I can start to feel the same gritty resistance. so I'm pretty sure it's the lens & not the slight resistance from the rangefinder "wheel" thing in the camera body. when I press on that w/my finger, it's nice & smooth. So! is this normal for this version of the 50? I was going to pay some big $bucks to get the fungus cleaned off, but I don't want to do that if the focus isn't "right" on this model. I really want a silky smooth focus like my old Nikkors. any insight appreciated. Cheers, Raphael

50 Lux ASPH - lens adjustment/rebuild + coding by Leica = how much/ how long? I have a 50 Lux ASPH, which I love as a lens. My recently bought Leica M8.2 finally exposed an issue, I was not aware of with this lens. There is a slight play between the lens barrel and focus group, resulting in quite substantial focus shift (which explains my issues, I had with my R-D1 and this lens on some occasions). I am pretty sure, this is an adjustment, which can be made by a skilled Leica technician and might involve either a simple calibration or complete lens rebuild. - Did anyone here had have a Leica 50 Summilux ASPH either adjusted or rebuild and coded by Leica? - Which costs were involved? - How long was the turnaround time? - How did you ship it with insurance? - What were the shipping costs? - Is this issue known to any Lux user? - What was the remedy? I am thinking about either having the lens overhauled by Leica, if the costs are reasonable or selling it back to the second hand dealer, funding a 90 Cron AA or a 35 Lux ASPH for my M8.2.

Just bought a current version 50mm summicron and when I focus from far to near, the rangefinder reaches its limit at .7 meters (like it should) but the focus ring on the lens does not. It keeps turning past its 0.7 marking, maybe another 3/8 of an inch. I have tried the lens on multiple bodies with the same result. Anyone familiar with this? Advice?

Is there any possibility to get a M9 adjusted while you wait anywhere in LA?

Hi, Im a real beginner in the world of rangefinders and Leica but I'm lucky enough to now own a M9 with a 35mm f2 asph and a 50mm f1.4 asph. I'm loving it but I think I have a problem with the 50mm, it is new but after reading some reviews and this forum I think I have a calibration issue? Am I doing anything wrong or does it look like I have to send it off for fixing? The snaps on this quick site show some results first with the 35mm which seem ok with my limited manual focusing experience but then using the same technique the 50mm is way off? Lens detection is set to auto. The glasses in these test pics are about 0.5m apart. http://web.me.com/skinner73 Any advice is appreciated if i'm doing something wrong or even just confirmation that it needs to go to the Leica doctor! Just can't believe kit that costs this much might have to be sent back? Still loving everything about it though, don't worry! Thanks Steve

I wear glasses (and need them on all the time) and find manual focus frustrating. I am slow and never confident that I have my shots perfectly focused. Are there any aids to focusing for the M8, such as different focusing screens or magnifiers to highlight the split image? I use my M8 for travel and street photography.

Hello, actually on a trip in London , m’y m10 rangefinder suddenly stop coupling with my lenses. in fact, the little wheel wich get contact with the lens stays blocked on the infini. If I put it in thé right direction I can feel itsabnormaly hard to move. what happened ? CAN Ifix it by myself -? Is there a place in London where it could be fixed ? thank you for your help

Hello guys, I found that my lecia m4 RF alignment need to adjust. However, when I want to screw the biggest bolt in the mount, I found that I can't screw it. It totally fixed. I google a lot of article, but I don't find anyone else has same problem like me. AS a result I come here to ask you guys; is there anyone had same problem like me?8

Hello, I am shooting Surf tomorrow and was thinking about recording some videos as well, the matter being I’ve never done it before. So I am looking for a crash course, simple, straight to the point, couldn’t find anything on YouTube… also I read the manual but can’t figure out why I can’t focus where I would want to, nor in MF or AF. I am using a Sigma 150-600, when I turned the focus ring it just magnified the image. Thank you in advance

Hi. For many years with large format cameras, and also with the Leica iiiG I used to use at work in the 1970's, we always had some focusing charts to use. The other day I was in a church doing a close up in fairly dim light. Every now and then the sun would shine through the window onto my subject. Peak focus on live view helped, though I had to be quick to catch the 10 seconds of sunlight! It took me back to the old focus charts we used to use. Various sizes from A4 (or Foolscap!!) down to postcard size. So I went hunting to see what is available now, and found these test sheets supposedly for Canon/Epson printers. I printed some out at postcard-ish and A4 size on my HP printer, and laminated them too. Will be trying them out this weekend. Here is where I got them if anyone one would find them useful. "Focusing" charts

I had my camera and all lenses calibrated for back focus issue by Leica NJ 2 months ago. I thought everything was good until now I just realized the patch at infinity isn't completely aligned on my 35mm Summilux. Thanks to a newly acquired 1.4x diopter. I see double lines with tiny space in between when I point at construction grids at infinity. My 90mm APO doesn't have that. It is sort of minute, am I being too picky?

Hi there, I brought myself finally a Leica Q last week. Its a really nice camera, but I have one issue I dont know if its a bug or a settings problem: If I half press the release button, the camera is focusing. I hold the button half pressed down until my subject is ready for the picture. If I press the button fully down (without releasing it), I assume the camera is taking the picure, but what it does is its focusing again and the taking the picture. I have set the mode switch to "S" and AF Mode to "1 point". Setting the Zoom button to "AEL/AFL" does not work either. Pressing or holding the button does nothing! With settings to Zoom the button works as expected. A reset of the camera settings did not help. Am I doing something wrong? Kind regards, Sebastian