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Found 17 results

  1. Hi Guys, I've been using my M6 TTL without an issue for sometime and then I left it dormant for around a year when I left the country... Now the meter wont work , the M6 would work fine and still take pictures if exposed correctly with an external light meter, but the mechanism now would not turn on. I'm based in NYC and have sent it to the Leica repair and they sent it back saying that they can't fix it because they "no longer have the parts", I contact Sherry Krauter and she said that she gets her parts from Leica, so if they don't have it, she won't either. So really now I'm just asking for help! Thanks! H
  2. IN BUILT LIGHT METER HELP! Hey Guys, I am totally new to the forum and digital Leica's. So hello everyone :-) I am a professional photographer from Australia, I have shot a number of cameras over my career much like most of you all, here is a sample list so you can get some context of my experience with different systems and therefore my experience with different in built light meters. Nikon FM's Contax G2 Contax T2 Leica M's (film) Mamiya RZ's / RB's Hasselblad 500's Pentax 67's Linhof Technika's Over the last 5 years I have been shooting digitally with: Phase one Fuji X I have recently purchased an M10 with a couple of lenses (35mm and 50mm) for my personal / documentary work to replace the Fuji's. Amazing decision and I'm absolutely stoked to be shooting with this glorious machine. OK so here is my experience, the in built light meter is totally all over the place! I have never ever had an issue with an in built light meter quite as much as this M10. It appears to grossly underexposed all its readings, freaks out with contrasty exteriors (remember I am in Australia the light is intense no sunny 16 here). Has anyone else had this issue? Does it just take some getting used to again? Have I been too exposed to digital Fuji automated trickery too long? Settings so you know where I am at: Center-Weighted exposure metering mode. I am aware of taking a reading from my hand and slecting a point in a scene to meter from half press and then recompose. This all works. I am talking about center frame standard metering of a scene any kind of contrast or ANY bright light in a scene freaks it out. Example image of my wife and my kitchen. This is what it determined correct, the lights from the cook top 100% perfect the overall scene probably about half a stop to one full stop under in my opinion, this is what I would expect from SPOT METERING NOT Centre-Weighted. There are many other examples this is just a quick one. Please refrain from focusing specifically on this example image and tell me your personal experiences even if it is.... Shut up Luke it works well you're not doing it right Image metadata = ISO100, 1/25th second, F1.4
  3. I bought my Leica Monochrom September 2013. Not only was it my first rangefinder, but also my first experience with Leica and I must admit that this has been a revelation for me. Like many of you it took me a couple of months to get used to iy but now I feel more and more confident shooting with my “Back Beauty” However, I am still struggling with these blowing Highlights. I already bought a 3 stop B&W ND filter but still… Reading this forum I understand that many others have had the same issue. I tried to expose for the highlights but then I tend to have pictures with a lot of shadow dust. Often other more experience users advise not to expose for the highlights but rather to expose “correctly”. Can someone please explain to me what they mean with “correctly”? Does this mean that if the DR of the scene is to important to be captured in one shot that I need to bracket my exposure or just have to decide to blow the highlights (or the shadows for that matter)? I do realise that this is a probably a beginners question (I started photography only 1 year ago so I guess I have an excuse ) but I really hope you take some time to help me out of this.. Many thanks, Frédéric
  4. I'm wondering, has anyone had instances where two takes of the same subject, same framing, same manual exposure settings but with auto SIO taken within a couple of seconds of each other are taken with very different iso values. It's not happening a lot and at first I put it down to imagination but it's happened enough now that I'm pretty sure it's real. I wondered, maybe, if sometimes it takes a bit of a while for the ISO to adjust and it's firing before the change has been made. Or something.
  5. I have tested my mp (film) and found out thet the lower exposure timing is not correct anymore. I dont know what happened. What could be the reason for this?
  6. Just picked up M10 Saturday and it's my first Leica and using 35 Summicron to start wirth. When shooting after turning on camera I keep finding the first shot to be off (badly underexposed) on exposure and the following pictures are much better. But the overall exposure starting with the 2nd shot seems to be about -1 off looking at the histograms. I can bring the image up using LR but I've just sacrificed some dynamic range to get there. If i shoot at + 0.3 or +0.7 it seems fine. No highlights blown out. I've tried changing metering modes but the results are ~ same. Using Auto ISO and Auto Speed to try and rule out rookie user errors Is the overall underexposure normal with Leica? I am new to Leica and this forum but 25+ years of Canon (5DS and telephotos) so trying to make sure I have the workflow correct. Not new to Rangefinder as I have my Dad's Zeiss Contax IIIa :-) thanks
  7. Hi, I've just recently purchased a Leica Q to add to my Nikon D-SLR system and just today I also updated the firmware to ver. 2.0. I'm using the camera in aperture priority mode and single-shot mode 95% of the time I'm using it. But only today I noticed something strange; when I use it in continuous [C] shooting mode, the exposures after the first one are different than the first one (and all except the first one being the same). As if the camera does not lock the exposure parameters after it's done with recording the first shot. This is not strange by itself, because the camera should change the exposure in such cases IF NEEDED, but in my case this happens also when the lighting situation does not change one bit. Basically the camera changes exposure parameters in fixed lighting conditions - which does not seem the proper way ... Anyone else noticed the same?
  8. I bought an M4 about a month ago and have been really enjoying this wonderfully engineered machine. However I am wondering if the shutter timings are correct. My first outing resulted in most things being underexposed and I put that down to my lack of experience in shooting a meterless camera using sunny 16. The day was heavy overcast so f5.6 should be right. However I had 400 tx loaded so I expected f11 to be about right for a shutter speed of 125. I shot mostly at f8 and was therefore surprised to find my film underexposed by 2 to 2 stops. Next outing I decided to use my mobile phone's freshly installed light meter app and discovered it recommended 5.6 for 400 asa so I discovered that the sunny 16 rule does not work well for UK weather. I think we need a new rule for England called Sunny 8. But surprise surprise when I developed this film I would say most of my shots were under exposed by 1 stop but at least they were recoverable in lightroom. I have now got to wondering if it could be the camera. Am I correct to assume that problems would tend to result in over exposure rather than underexposure because declining spring tension would slow down the shutter. Also am I correct to assume that if one speed is correct then they all will be correct. My reasoning is that the speeds must be controlled by gears so that every speed will always be double the previous speed. I understand that the higher speeds are attained with variable width slits in the curtain so I assume they also would always be relative to each other. My next step is to waste a roll of film trying every shutter speed / aperture combination for a fixed EV. If I can prove the camera is at fault I am sure the shop would CLA it for me free of charge but at this moment in time I suspect it's me not the camera.
  9. Just wondering ... Does the T have a tendency to overexpose? What I see in the Visoflex or on the display in live-view appears darker than the resulting shot.
  10. Leica Q - Observations and Queries I have been thoroughly enjoying using my Q these last 9 days. It is quite a camera, and a worthy companion to the M240 (or is it going to be the other way round?!). The performance of the camera is fantastic. The exposures are far more accurate than the M240 and I must ‘unlearn’ over-compensating in bright, back-lit and dark situations! The AF is astoundingly quick and accurate in bright and averagely lit scenarios, and still pretty good in low light ones. Its size and weight are just about right, a nice balance. Its quiet shutter, fast operation and clean simple lines makes it an ideal discrete street camera. However, I have found a few quirks, which may or may not be due to the way I have set my camera up. I list them here and would appreciate comments and advice/corrections as appropriate. My apologies if they have already been raised previously. 1. Is it possible to have true live preview displayed on half press of shutter button so that exposure and aperture set (DOF) can be assessed? Currently in low (or bright) light situations with manually set high shutter speed and small aperture (or slow shutter speed and large aperture) with Auto ISO, preview shows beautifully exposed displays – unless Review is set On, the resulting massively under (or over) exposed file could be missed. Conversely, say in back-lit or dark situations – altering exposure settings or compensation shows the preview changing, brightening up in a back-lit view or darkening in a dark view, but these changes are not reflected in the recorded files. Even with Histogram turned On, this under/over exposure is not easy to spot – in fact, I am sure the histogram just matches the incorrect preview image. There appears to be no way to get a consistent true ‘set’ live view, i.e. related to the shutter speed, aperture and ISO set – or have I missed an option in the menu? If I have not, this is critical and should be made available immediately. In full Auto mode, the changes made are both shown and recorded, but surely this should operate similarly in BOTH Auto AND Manual modes. 2. When reviewing images – it would be nice to be able to scroll images when in zoomed-in mode. I am not finding the speeding up of scrolling when in zoomed- in review that useful. It invariably flies past the spot I want to check. I would be happy with just the basic scroll speed. It would be useful to be able to zoom directly into the point of focus. I appreciate it may be difficult with face detect or multiple AF point selection options. 3. When shooting with the LCD I find it annoying that the bottom info bar stays/comes on when shooting, whereas the top one disappears. The bar strip background is too dark, obstructing the view, causing incorrect composition nearly always. This is NOT an issue when using the EVF, as both top and bottom info bars are OUTSIDE full frame viewing area. It would be nice to have an option where both info bars remain completely OFF when this display setting is chosen, especially on the LCD. At present the bottom bar re-appears on half press of shutter button. Again, NOT an issue in EVF as top and bottom info bars are OUTSIDE full frame viewing area. Discrete viewing settings for EVF and LCD would be useful. 4. Manual switching between EVF and LCD should be possible with a customisable button (see below). As also mentioned by others, when in EVF only mode there should be an option to have the play back review image appear on the LCD. 5. When the Level Gauge has been selected, it 'disappears' when the shutter button is half-pressed – why? The Histogram also behaves this way. However the Grid and Clipping stay on. ALL should stay on. 6. Like loads before me -DNG only option please! 7. Exposure compensation selection option on Fn Button is awkward – this should be available on the Zoom/Lock Button as this is the natural position, next to the thumbwheel. The Fn Button is difficult, almost impossible, to accurately activate with the camera to the eye. 8. In fact, the selection of options accessible on the Fn Button should be extended, possibly to almost all Menu operational options. And this same extended list should also be available on the Zoom/Lock Button, and possibly (please!) on the Video Button too. That way we can have 3 Custom Buttons – Yes Please!!! 9. It would be nice to be able to rearrange the Menu items to suit individual requirements (Digital Zoom would not be my choice for the No.1 slot), and to be able to save all settings to an SD card for safe keeping and re-setting the camera as and when required. 10. I am finding that the Menu does not always return to the last used option (e.g. User Profile) when re-accessed, but have not yet figured how or why it happens. From this long list (and it may still be added to as the Q is used more and further experience is gained ) it may seem that I am dissatisfied with the Q – far from it – I am so enjoying it very much indeed. It is my constant companion, though in reality any new camera will be anyway, and my M240 is tucked safely away at the moment. If Leica can be receptive to its loyal users and address at least some, if not the majority of issues raised so far, in a firmware update, it will escalate the Q to being a totally stellar camera. And then all they have to do is to bring out the Q 21mm f2.8, Q 35mm f2 and Q 50mm f2 versions for an astounding, superfast set of superb compact cameras to take over the world! Will the rumoured new interchangeable mirrorless camera system provide this? Probably not totally – but, only time will tell. I did forward some of these issues to Leica but have not yet heard back so far. In the meantime I shall continue to use and enjoy my fantastic Q. Looking forward to comments and clarifications/advice in overcoming some of the issues listed above.
  11. Hi, Can anyone tell me why two films on an M5 are partially unexposed ? On the first film, only the last two frames were exposed, and on the second film only 6 non consecutive frames out of the 36 were exposed. I have excluded reasons such as forgotten lens cap, ASA adjustment, battery problem, bad aperture/speed adjustment. It seems to me like it could be a shutter problem, but can there be another reason? Can a badly loaded film be the cause ? Does anyone have experience of this ?
  12. Hi, I just have a M3 camera here to try out. But I have not really any idea how to use a camera without light meter. So the question is on one hand - how to use a M3 without a ight meter to get the right exposure (ISO Aperture and Speed) - and on the other hand this is not sticky to a M3 but how to use any camera without light meter. Thanks for any help which is highly appreciated. Any links to online help also welcome - I already asked google but did not do a great job. Regards AHAB
  13. I am off on a ski trip to Switzerland in a couple of weeks and am planning to take my MP with me and a load of film. I am reasonably new to film and the MP and would love some feedback on the following; 1. Exposure in snow conditions and particularly film selection for this. I would like to shoot E6 but am worried about its limitations to over or under exposure. Am I better shooting with something else? 2. I am expecting the MP will live up to the cold conditions without too many issues? 3. I have never travelled internationally with film - I assume carry-on X-ray machines are ok? Any feedback on any or all of the above would be very much appreciated.
  14. It seems that one could do a simple test to see how many stops of exposure move an illuminated object from "blue" to "red", or from one end to the other of the so-called 'raw histogram'. Anyone with an MM have a chance to give it a go?
  15. Hi, I use an M6 since one year and since the last few months the light metering has a problem. It happenes most of the time in low light situation, the camera indicates me a good exposure which is in fact over exposed of usuallty few stops.. for exemple i m using a tmax 400 the real light is f5.6 at 1/30 so he will indicates me f2.8 at 1/15 ... i need to shake the camera to help him to give me the real exposures on the one side, it teaches me how to read the light less or more, but on the other, it's very annoying when i need to photograph quickly and i have these mistakes. i ve changed the batteries for new ones but the problem is still here. does it happen to someone already ? what should i do ? thanks, Noam
  16. Hello everyone! I am a film noob (photography noob too), and I am expecting my first ever film Leica M to arrive tomorrow. It's a M6 "classic." I haven't used film since ... the 1990's. My film camera back then was a fixed lens, fixed focus, point and shoot that I paid either $10 or $20 for at Walgreens. I am trying to figure out which type of film works for which type of lighting situation. On my digital M (and any other digital camera that I've used), I just dial in the proper ISO to get the desired shutter speed at a given aperture. For film, it would appear that I can't really do that. Once you put in a roll of film, you are stuck with it until you are finished using the roll. Obviously, for sunny days, I want to shoot with a low ISO film so that I can shoot the lens wide open. But for indoor use, would 400 be sufficient? Or should I move to 800? On the M9, even in low light conditions at night, I can stick the M9 in ISO2500, leave the lens wide open at f1.4, and still get 1/6" exposure. Can such a thing be done with film? I've read people talking about "pulling" and "pushing" film. What does that mean and how is it accomplished? Any help you can provide is deeply appreciated. Thank you very much. -Armanius
  17. Back in late autumn 2007 my Digilux 2 suffered sensor failure and it was shipped back to Leica UK for repair. This was the time time they were offering Digilux 3's cheap as an alternative to a repair. Obviously I took the opportunity to buy the DL3 at around half price as it appeared a good deal. However, 6000 pictures later I still appear to be disatisfied with exposure on many photos. This is despite having used the autobracket function extensively. In reality I have probably taken 2000 photos with this camera as I generally take three shots. The problem I find is with the dynamic range it appears so easy to under or over expose. One can get the foreground exposure corect and the highlights in the back ground look over exposed. I have tried the various film settings and auto / manual settings as well as the three metering modes but still the problem occurs and exposure is rather inconsistent. I did not have this problem with my previous Digilux 1 or 2, nor do I have the problem with my V-Lux1 or C-Lux2. Over the years I have used a variety of film cameras (Contax / Rollei / Praktica) before moving to digital Leica and never had the exposure problems I appear to get from the DL3. What have been other people's experiences with this camera and its Panasonic equivalent in the exposure department? I am currently considering an X1 and was wondering if the DL3 should get the chop rather than the C-Lux2 to offset the cost of the new machine. John
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