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I'm left handed and I think that makes my left eye dominant but not sure. Anyway when I bring the Q to my eye, instinct is to use my left eye. Given the design, I have to think that 'rangefinders' are meant for right eyed use, allowing both eyes in use? Is it possible to train myself to use right eye and keep left eye open? Any one have experience with this problem? I think I've read that gun owners are told to keep both eyes open when using a scope? Is it not worth worrying about, and just use my left eye with right closed?

For unknown reason(s) an oddity is happening with indicated exposure times seen in viewfinder. After making an exposure, for the next two exposures there is no variation in indicated exposure time when panning about with camera. After the third exposure, the indication again varies properly as you pan about different scenes. Then repeats. As if there were an unwanted exposure lock mode in effect for 2nd and 3rd shot of a 3 shot sequence.. Cannot find any obvious settings error likely to be the cause. The bracketing is set to 0. Tried to reload latest firmware but it "completes" in about two seconds so never happened. Does Leica determine the actual present checksum of the loaded firmware and decide that a reload is not necessary?? What am I missing here? Thanks.

My Leica D-Lux 3 that displays (1) a purple color shift for white colors in bright light; and (2) a photos show a green or yellow tint in low light. I have looked over the presets and defaults. I cannot find a switch that improves the display. I believe that the exposure sensor is damaged or malfunctioning. Otherwise, the camera is in good shape cosmetically and according to a review of the presets and default, working correctly. A used replacement on Ebay is about $150 to $200. My questions are: -1- Can I send my camera to the Leica repair for a new sensor for that amount of money? I know about the submission form that requires a maximum repair cost to be stated. -2- Is a Leica repaired camera totally checked out and then repaired so as to insure long lasting functioning? -3- Is it better to purchase another non-leica camera for $150 to $200 with improved specifications like increased megapixels? Thanks for reviewing my questions, Inkbox PS I encountered an error when uploading files; although I deleted the upload files, I cannot upload replacements. I have used up all of my storage space and cannot locate a delete button in My Attachments.

IN BUILT LIGHT METER HELP! Hey Guys, I am totally new to the forum and digital Leica's. So hello everyone :-) I am a professional photographer from Australia, I have shot a number of cameras over my career much like most of you all, here is a sample list so you can get some context of my experience with different systems and therefore my experience with different in built light meters. Nikon FM's Contax G2 Contax T2 Leica M's (film) Mamiya RZ's / RB's Hasselblad 500's Pentax 67's Linhof Technika's Over the last 5 years I have been shooting digitally with: Phase one Fuji X I have recently purchased an M10 with a couple of lenses (35mm and 50mm) for my personal / documentary work to replace the Fuji's. Amazing decision and I'm absolutely stoked to be shooting with this glorious machine. OK so here is my experience, the in built light meter is totally all over the place! I have never ever had an issue with an in built light meter quite as much as this M10. It appears to grossly underexposed all its readings, freaks out with contrasty exteriors (remember I am in Australia the light is intense no sunny 16 here). Has anyone else had this issue? Does it just take some getting used to again? Have I been too exposed to digital Fuji automated trickery too long? Settings so you know where I am at: Center-Weighted exposure metering mode. I am aware of taking a reading from my hand and slecting a point in a scene to meter from half press and then recompose. This all works. I am talking about center frame standard metering of a scene any kind of contrast or ANY bright light in a scene freaks it out. Example image of my wife and my kitchen. This is what it determined correct, the lights from the cook top 100% perfect the overall scene probably about half a stop to one full stop under in my opinion, this is what I would expect from SPOT METERING NOT Centre-Weighted. There are many other examples this is just a quick one. Please refrain from focusing specifically on this example image and tell me your personal experiences even if it is.... Shut up Luke it works well you're not doing it right Image metadata = ISO100, 1/25th second, F1.4

Hi Guys, I've been using my M6 TTL without an issue for sometime and then I left it dormant for around a year when I left the country... Now the meter wont work , the M6 would work fine and still take pictures if exposed correctly with an external light meter, but the mechanism now would not turn on. I'm based in NYC and have sent it to the Leica repair and they sent it back saying that they can't fix it because they "no longer have the parts", I contact Sherry Krauter and she said that she gets her parts from Leica, so if they don't have it, she won't either. So really now I'm just asking for help! Thanks! H

I'm wondering, has anyone had instances where two takes of the same subject, same framing, same manual exposure settings but with auto SIO taken within a couple of seconds of each other are taken with very different iso values. It's not happening a lot and at first I put it down to imagination but it's happened enough now that I'm pretty sure it's real. I wondered, maybe, if sometimes it takes a bit of a while for the ISO to adjust and it's firing before the change has been made. Or something.

I have tested my mp (film) and found out thet the lower exposure timing is not correct anymore. I dont know what happened. What could be the reason for this?

Just picked up M10 Saturday and it's my first Leica and using 35 Summicron to start wirth. When shooting after turning on camera I keep finding the first shot to be off (badly underexposed) on exposure and the following pictures are much better. But the overall exposure starting with the 2nd shot seems to be about -1 off looking at the histograms. I can bring the image up using LR but I've just sacrificed some dynamic range to get there. If i shoot at + 0.3 or +0.7 it seems fine. No highlights blown out. I've tried changing metering modes but the results are ~ same. Using Auto ISO and Auto Speed to try and rule out rookie user errors Is the overall underexposure normal with Leica? I am new to Leica and this forum but 25+ years of Canon (5DS and telephotos) so trying to make sure I have the workflow correct. Not new to Rangefinder as I have my Dad's Zeiss Contax IIIa :-) thanks

Hi, I've just recently purchased a Leica Q to add to my Nikon D-SLR system and just today I also updated the firmware to ver. 2.0. I'm using the camera in aperture priority mode and single-shot mode 95% of the time I'm using it. But only today I noticed something strange; when I use it in continuous [C] shooting mode, the exposures after the first one are different than the first one (and all except the first one being the same). As if the camera does not lock the exposure parameters after it's done with recording the first shot. This is not strange by itself, because the camera should change the exposure in such cases IF NEEDED, but in my case this happens also when the lighting situation does not change one bit. Basically the camera changes exposure parameters in fixed lighting conditions - which does not seem the proper way ... Anyone else noticed the same?

I bought an M4 about a month ago and have been really enjoying this wonderfully engineered machine. However I am wondering if the shutter timings are correct. My first outing resulted in most things being underexposed and I put that down to my lack of experience in shooting a meterless camera using sunny 16. The day was heavy overcast so f5.6 should be right. However I had 400 tx loaded so I expected f11 to be about right for a shutter speed of 125. I shot mostly at f8 and was therefore surprised to find my film underexposed by 2 to 2 stops. Next outing I decided to use my mobile phone's freshly installed light meter app and discovered it recommended 5.6 for 400 asa so I discovered that the sunny 16 rule does not work well for UK weather. I think we need a new rule for England called Sunny 8. But surprise surprise when I developed this film I would say most of my shots were under exposed by 1 stop but at least they were recoverable in lightroom. I have now got to wondering if it could be the camera. Am I correct to assume that problems would tend to result in over exposure rather than underexposure because declining spring tension would slow down the shutter. Also am I correct to assume that if one speed is correct then they all will be correct. My reasoning is that the speeds must be controlled by gears so that every speed will always be double the previous speed. I understand that the higher speeds are attained with variable width slits in the curtain so I assume they also would always be relative to each other. My next step is to waste a roll of film trying every shutter speed / aperture combination for a fixed EV. If I can prove the camera is at fault I am sure the shop would CLA it for me free of charge but at this moment in time I suspect it's me not the camera.

Just wondering ... Does the T have a tendency to overexpose? What I see in the Visoflex or on the display in live-view appears darker than the resulting shot.

Leica Q - Observations and Queries I have been thoroughly enjoying using my Q these last 9 days. It is quite a camera, and a worthy companion to the M240 (or is it going to be the other way round?!). The performance of the camera is fantastic. The exposures are far more accurate than the M240 and I must ‘unlearn’ over-compensating in bright, back-lit and dark situations! The AF is astoundingly quick and accurate in bright and averagely lit scenarios, and still pretty good in low light ones. Its size and weight are just about right, a nice balance. Its quiet shutter, fast operation and clean simple lines makes it an ideal discrete street camera. However, I have found a few quirks, which may or may not be due to the way I have set my camera up. I list them here and would appreciate comments and advice/corrections as appropriate. My apologies if they have already been raised previously. 1. Is it possible to have true live preview displayed on half press of shutter button so that exposure and aperture set (DOF) can be assessed? Currently in low (or bright) light situations with manually set high shutter speed and small aperture (or slow shutter speed and large aperture) with Auto ISO, preview shows beautifully exposed displays – unless Review is set On, the resulting massively under (or over) exposed file could be missed. Conversely, say in back-lit or dark situations – altering exposure settings or compensation shows the preview changing, brightening up in a back-lit view or darkening in a dark view, but these changes are not reflected in the recorded files. Even with Histogram turned On, this under/over exposure is not easy to spot – in fact, I am sure the histogram just matches the incorrect preview image. There appears to be no way to get a consistent true ‘set’ live view, i.e. related to the shutter speed, aperture and ISO set – or have I missed an option in the menu? If I have not, this is critical and should be made available immediately. In full Auto mode, the changes made are both shown and recorded, but surely this should operate similarly in BOTH Auto AND Manual modes. 2. When reviewing images – it would be nice to be able to scroll images when in zoomed-in mode. I am not finding the speeding up of scrolling when in zoomed- in review that useful. It invariably flies past the spot I want to check. I would be happy with just the basic scroll speed. It would be useful to be able to zoom directly into the point of focus. I appreciate it may be difficult with face detect or multiple AF point selection options. 3. When shooting with the LCD I find it annoying that the bottom info bar stays/comes on when shooting, whereas the top one disappears. The bar strip background is too dark, obstructing the view, causing incorrect composition nearly always. This is NOT an issue when using the EVF, as both top and bottom info bars are OUTSIDE full frame viewing area. It would be nice to have an option where both info bars remain completely OFF when this display setting is chosen, especially on the LCD. At present the bottom bar re-appears on half press of shutter button. Again, NOT an issue in EVF as top and bottom info bars are OUTSIDE full frame viewing area. Discrete viewing settings for EVF and LCD would be useful. 4. Manual switching between EVF and LCD should be possible with a customisable button (see below). As also mentioned by others, when in EVF only mode there should be an option to have the play back review image appear on the LCD. 5. When the Level Gauge has been selected, it 'disappears' when the shutter button is half-pressed – why? The Histogram also behaves this way. However the Grid and Clipping stay on. ALL should stay on. 6. Like loads before me -DNG only option please! 7. Exposure compensation selection option on Fn Button is awkward – this should be available on the Zoom/Lock Button as this is the natural position, next to the thumbwheel. The Fn Button is difficult, almost impossible, to accurately activate with the camera to the eye. 8. In fact, the selection of options accessible on the Fn Button should be extended, possibly to almost all Menu operational options. And this same extended list should also be available on the Zoom/Lock Button, and possibly (please!) on the Video Button too. That way we can have 3 Custom Buttons – Yes Please!!! 9. It would be nice to be able to rearrange the Menu items to suit individual requirements (Digital Zoom would not be my choice for the No.1 slot), and to be able to save all settings to an SD card for safe keeping and re-setting the camera as and when required. 10. I am finding that the Menu does not always return to the last used option (e.g. User Profile) when re-accessed, but have not yet figured how or why it happens. From this long list (and it may still be added to as the Q is used more and further experience is gained ) it may seem that I am dissatisfied with the Q – far from it – I am so enjoying it very much indeed. It is my constant companion, though in reality any new camera will be anyway, and my M240 is tucked safely away at the moment. If Leica can be receptive to its loyal users and address at least some, if not the majority of issues raised so far, in a firmware update, it will escalate the Q to being a totally stellar camera. And then all they have to do is to bring out the Q 21mm f2.8, Q 35mm f2 and Q 50mm f2 versions for an astounding, superfast set of superb compact cameras to take over the world! Will the rumoured new interchangeable mirrorless camera system provide this? Probably not totally – but, only time will tell. I did forward some of these issues to Leica but have not yet heard back so far. In the meantime I shall continue to use and enjoy my fantastic Q. Looking forward to comments and clarifications/advice in overcoming some of the issues listed above.