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Found 46 results

  1. Hey Guys, I wanted to buy a used leica since months now. But I am still unsure if I should go with the M6 or the M4? The only big difference is that the M6 has a lightmeter and the M4 not. But since I work in the film industry. I wanted to buy a separate light meter anyway at some point. So is it better to go with the cheaper M4 and get also a good lens instead of spending a lot on the M6? Looking forward to your replies Best Thomas
  2. Hi, I have had a M6 (serial number is in the 1665000 range) for about 7 years now and to be honest, haven't used it a lot in the last few years, but fired it up again recently and noticed that I think the light meter is functioning odd. In the past, I could press the shutter button when the film wasn't wound on and the light meter would activate, briefly, and then I could set the exposure. Now it doesn't do that, but when I wind film on, it will activate the light meter and not turn off until a photo is taken. I ran a roll of film through and it works fine - i.e the exposures were fine - it just seems to activate differently that it used to. Is this a common thing anyone knows about? I live in Melbourne, Australia and it's tough to get a repairer here who will look at an M6. Any advice would be REALLY helpful. Thanks in advance! Scott (Also, I added a photo of my camera just 'cause it's a nice looking thing.)
  3. Has Leica ever officially confirmed that M6 TTL light meter is not repairable by them? I've read mixed information in this forum and elsewhere where "some" owners have sent the camera for light meter repair and some have had it repaired and others have received a response from Leica that they can't fix it. What specifically is so unique about the M6 TTL light meter vs the M6 classic light meter that makes it so complex for repair. Obviously I'm interested in purchasing an M6 TTL in great condition - found one specifically with a 0.58x viewfinder which is very important to me since I wear glasses and shoot primarily 28mm and 35mm. I enjoy the in-camera light meter and hoping that in a few years down the line ...the M6 TTL does not turn into M4-P if the light meter malfunctions for any reason. Thanks in advance for the feedback.
  4. Hi, I have to choose between two mint condition cameras, one is a upgraded viewfinder M7 and second one is a m6 classic with a recent CLA. I like the M7 as it gives me the option for aperture priority IF I want. But the one thing that worries me is the electronics, compared to the M6 mechanical inside. Please advise as I need to make a quick choice. The price is not the factor i need help with just the talk around riliabilty and posabilty to service IF it breaks down in a couple of years.
  5. This advert is COMPLETED!

    • For Sale
    • Used

    Verkaufe neuwertige M6 chrom mit Tragegurt in der Originalverpackung. Die Kamera hat minimale Gebrauchsspuren. Preis 1250,-EUR Dies ist ein Privatverkauf. I only send within EU.

    1,250.00 EUR

  6. I just got a great deal on an M6 Classic, but it has very few bubbles here and there. (nothing major) I'm sure this subject has been written about multiple times on this forum and some of you may be tired of reading the same thing again and again. However, I was wondering if it would be possible to reverse the oxidation by getting it to bare zinc and painting it. Would it need to be treated with some type of chemical? Would it happen again? Sending it to Leica is not an option for me and M6 Classic top plates are hard to find online. So, is there any ways to reverse this zinc plague on the top plate?
  7. Hello there! I feel like something is wrong with my Leica M6, but I can't confirm as it's my very first Leica (and I LOVE it). When it is 'powered' (fresh new batteries and not on Bulb mode), if I press the shutter half-way or even all-the-way, I don't get any reading in the viewfinder. The light meter is powered on and giving me a reading only when the wind lever has been pulled completely and the camera is ready to take a picture. While I can still use the camera properly, in specific light conditions (low light, cloudy and changing light) it's a bit risky to use as sometimes I have to wait 10-15 mins to have the natural lighting I'm looking for and the trigger could be pressed by inadvertence at any moment. Could you guys please confirm that: This is not normal, and the light meter should give me a reading even though I didn't pull the lever (as long as the camera is not on Bulb mode) It wouldn't be too crazy to fix as it should 'just' be a connection missing Thank you in advance.
  8. Hi to everyone here, I currently owned M6 and MP (type 240) by nature, i usually like shooting at 35 mm focal length. I am aiming to upgrade my summicron asph to a summilux which 35mm summilux lens will be the ‘one lens’that would fit with my two camera bodies?(digital and film) I will be studying abroad( in edinburgh), so i would like to hear thoughts and comments from fellow experienced users in this forum. Thank you
  9. My 1st M6 film shot, here goes with analogue!
  10. Dear all, first of all thanks in advance for your kind support. I have just bought a Leica M6 from an amateur and using it with a 50 Summilux. Analysing the camera, everything looked simply perfect and I bought it and the day after immediately tested it with a B&W roll to be self developed. That's exaclty when I realized that something was wrong: 1. My first issue has been related to film rewinding, after putting the camera on R mode, the lever was so tough to move and rotate and really really heavy 2. Then on film, the frames seem to be too spaced from each other as you can see in the picture below (at least 5 mm) 3. But what really concern me is the spring under the winder that seems to be damaged or somehow messy 4. Finally I realized putting another roll that during first 10 exposures the winder was light and creamy and after it becomes more and more to get tough as if it faces resistance somewhere. Do you know how can I sort this issue and how much could this cost? Thanks again for all your kind support and cooperation Daniele
  11. First of many pictures taken in this italian city through the years
  12. Liebe Forumsmitglieder, ich habe ein sehr gut erhaltenes 90er Objektiv und möchte gerne Portraits photographieren. Da ich noch auf der Suche nach einer Kamera (M6) bin, habe ich bei einem bekannten Fachhändler angerufen. Dieser meint, dass die M6 eher für 50er Objektive und Streetphotographie ausgelegt ist und dass es mit einer Suchervergößerung 0.85X /90er schwierig für Anfänger ist, vernünftige Ergebnisse zu erhalten. Da er Experte ist und ich Laie denke ich, dass der gute Mann Recht hat. Dennoch würde ich gern von Euren Erfahrungen lesen. Muss ich das Objektiv abstoßen? Also Kombi M6 / 50er als Brillenträger mit Dioptrin +2,0? Danke für Eure Tipps. Viele Grüße andreas61
  13. Hey, I went to Vietnam this summer and shot a series that was among other featured on the leica camera blog. You can check that out here: http://blog.leica-camera.com/2016/09/25/lounging-in-vietnam/ But of course I shot a lot more than just those few images in the series! So I still had a ton of photos from my trip to Vietnam buried in Lightroom. I haven’t posted any of them anywhere because I couldn’t really figure out how to arrange them in a story that would make any sense. Also most of these photos are a tad too touristy for my taste. But since I still really like them and can’t stand the thought of never showing them I decided to split them up into a couple of smaller sets and post them on my blog - of course fully aware that tumblr is pretty much dead these days. But hey, any place is better than the depths of my hard drive. All photo are taken with a Leica M6 and the 35mm Summicron IV on Kodak Portra 160 or 400. You can find some of the photo already on my blog and I will keep updating over the next few days. Blog: http://lifeon35.tumblr.com/
  14. I'm looking to trade up my 35mm Summicron ASPH to a Summilux for my M6. I shoot only film and so I've been craving a slightly faster lens that'll go well with slow film. After some research, I'm torn between all the different types of Summilux's: - Pre-ASPH/Classic (cheaper, prone to flare, prone to focus shift, softer on the edges, and has the classic Leica glow/rendition) - Aspherical (super expensive, a non-option for me) - ASPH (a little cheaper than the FLE, still prone to focus shift, sharper than the Pre-ASPH, still has the classic Leica glow/rendition - not as much as Pre-ASPH though) - ASPH FLE (expensive, no focus shift, really sharp, lots of contrast, more modern Leica look) I'm leaning towards the ASPH and ASPH FLE, and the only reason why I'm leaning towards the ASPH FLE was that the focus shift is mostly eliminated with the floating lens element. However, I kind of like the classic Leica look that the regular ASPH has. I've also read places that focus shift is less prominent in film cameras. Is that really true? Should I just spring for the FLE version?
  15. Hello Lads, I have been shooting Kentmere 100 for a minute now. Some of the rolls I tend to push to 400 and really loving the results. I find kentmere 100 when shoot at box speed to be sort of flat and pleasant in look but when rated at 400 it becomes angrier:) and with more character. Not bad for a 2.5$ dollar film. Attached pic of my son Milan. thanks !
  16. Hi guys I need help or advises rather. Has anyone shoot M6 with CV Color Skopar 35mm F2.5 type 2 for concert shoot lately or before? I would want to use it but i worry that 2.5 would not be enough for the speed. Hope you guys could help me out. Thanks. *sorry for my bad english* heh.
  17. During my last couple of trips in colder temperatures I've noticed that once temperatures get slightly cold the light meter of my M6 gets fairly unreliable. Meaning that the little arrows either don't show up at all, are barely visible or simply give me wrong meterings. I'm assuming it has something to do with the cold draining the batteries. But the temperatures I was in weren't exactly "freezing" - mostly between 0 and 15 Celcius (32 and 59 Fahrenheit) - so I'm not sure. Is this a common issue? Is there a simple fix? Maybe a battery thats more resistant to cold temperatures? Any help would be appreciated!
  18. Hi, I have problems to fire my Contax TLA 200 on the hotshoe of a recently purchased Leica M6 classic. I fidnthat weird because from what I know the Leica M6 classic pretty much takes any flash you put on the hotshoe (without TTL at east). I haven't tried it off camera yet. I did some research on this topic but couldn't find any previous threads covering it. Therefore hereÄs my question: Has anyone of you encountered similar problems or has used this flash on the Leica M6 classic successfully? The Canonlite flash which came with the Canonet QL 17 III doesn't fire either. As the Leica M6 classic has just been purchased I want to make sure that the hotshoe isn't damaged. To be honest, that's what I suppose at the moment.... Thanks for your help!
  19. Eine kleine Auswahl von Bildern aus einer relativ großen Serie die während eines kurzen Trips in die Türkei entstanden ist. Die ganze Serie gibts hier: http://www.philippwortmann.com/istanbul 35mm Kodak Portra 400 - Leica M6 & 35mm Summicron IV lens - gescannt mit Kodak Pakon 135+
  20. This is a small selection of photographs from a series I shot in Istanbul and Bursa during short trip to Turkey. You can check the full series out on my site: http://www.philippwortmann.com/istanbul Or follow me on one of my social media things, down below. All shot on 35mm Kodak Portra 400 with a Leica M6 & 35mm Summicron IV lens. Scanned by myself with a Pakon 135+
  21. Some photos I took in Joshua Tree NP while on a trip through the southwestern US with my trusty M6, 35 Summicron and a whole bunch of Kodak TriX. If I remeber correctly I think I also used an orange or yellow filter on these shots .... More here: http://www.philippwortmann.com/southwestbw or on flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/derphilipppp/albums/72157651692347201
  22. A couple photographs of Point Reyes Lighthouse on Kodak Tri-X 400. Leica M6 & 35mm Summicron IV plus yellow filter
  23. Hey everyone! I have been noticing a small hair in the upper right hand corner of my developed film scans. Here is a link: http://imgur.com/a/SjQK8 Was wondering if anyone could give e some suggestions as to where this could be coming from? It seems to move around slightly, and I have used a rocket air blaster on the inside of the camera + lens with no results. Using a lecia m6 ttl with a 35mm summicron f2 asph Any help would be appreciated! Thank you.
  24. I shot a little photo series while in Vietnam this summer All Kodak Portra 160/400, Leica M6, 35mm Summicron Full series here: http://www.philippwortmann.com/lounging-in-viet-nam Teaser:
  25. Hello to all, I would like to request your help/advice. I currently own and use a Nikon F3, but feel the need for something new to help with street/travel photography. After doing a fair bit of research I have come up with buying either the M5 or the M6ttl. I can't actually go to a store and handle these cameras and I will be buying online, I am drawn to the M5 but the worry is I am buying something bigger than my F3 when I am looking for something less intimidating when on the street? however the shutter dial and viewfinder look like great additions. With the M5 it seems the Shutter speed in the viewfinder would also be useful and perhaps better than the LED's in the M6? Could anybody who owns an M5 post some size comparison photos to give me some idea of what it looks like next to the F3? How Do you find the M6 TTL, LED system? I will be predominantly using a 35mm and 50mm lens to start with. Any help you can offer is greatly appreciated, Thanks !
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