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Showing results for tags 'm6'.
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A double whammy festive year of two major M landmarks, the M3 (1954) and M6 (1984). What in your opinion is Leica cooking up for these jubilee anniversaries? I feel a special edition or two coming up…
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Hello! I had previously posted some questions about using the Leica SF20 flash with my M6 TTL. I've shot through a few rolls since first getting it and quite liked the results (and experimenting a bit!) However, on my latest roll when trying to use the flash I can't seem to get the flash unit to fire in any mode while on camera. I... - Turned off the body - Attached the flash to the hot-shoe - Turned on the body to flash sync speed (or slower) - Turned on the SF20 to "TTL" mode, and tap the soft shutter on the M6 and the LCD reads out "400 iso" When trying to take a photo and looking through the viewfinder I see the flash symbol (it's solid) on the right hand side, and when taking a photo it never flashes/blinks/etc. From the M6 manual I assume _something_ should occur with the indicator, and the flash should fire. I've checked the hot-shoe contacts and it all seems fine. I haven't tried swapping out M6 batteries yet, or flash batteries because it fires on tests just fine, and my meter workout without issue. Is there anything else I should check or try out? I was able to test the SF20 on a friend's Fujifilm and it fired without issue in "auto" mode. I tried manual/auto and it didn't do anything either. Very odd!
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Shot film in the 80s and 90s (Olympus and Nikon) then digital only for past 20 years (including SL 601 since it came out) Loaded my Nikon F5 last year and loved shooting film again. Now considering an M. Have read and watched all I can, so understand the differences between the 3 currently available film M cameras but still undecided. Don’t mind black or chrome (and not chasing a BP finish). Have always had a light meter in my camera (apart from shooting my Dad’s old Ilford as a kid) but am attracted to the simplicity of the M-A. Areas I could use advice on include the following please: - quality control issues, not sure if M6 scratching film issue has gone away. - viewfinder, which is best? (My eyesight is ok but am in mid 50s). - reliability over the long term. Anyone else been in my situation? How did you choose? Thanks for your help everyone.
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During my last couple of trips in colder temperatures I've noticed that once temperatures get slightly cold the light meter of my M6 gets fairly unreliable. Meaning that the little arrows either don't show up at all, are barely visible or simply give me wrong meterings. I'm assuming it has something to do with the cold draining the batteries. But the temperatures I was in weren't exactly "freezing" - mostly between 0 and 15 Celcius (32 and 59 Fahrenheit) - so I'm not sure. Is this a common issue? Is there a simple fix? Maybe a battery thats more resistant to cold temperatures? Any help would be appreciated!
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I've recently purchased an SF20 flash to use with my M6 TTL. I'm trying to make sure I am understanding how to use the TTL setting for the flash properly. After checking the manual it's been pretty unclear, so I have a few questions. 1. As for usage is it as simple as setting the camera+flash to TTL, setting the ISO on the camera, and changing the exposure to your liking? My assumption is the flash will output enough to properly expose for any scene, so just ignore the in camera meter? 2. Setting any settings (aperture/etc) on the flash while in TTL mode only shows you the distance output on the back of the flash, but does it alter the functionality of the flash power output or is it just for reference if you so choose? 3. What other things are worth noting when using flash in TTL mode (or I suppose manual?) It seems that in TTL mode it's mostly just hands off and pretty simple, but I feel like I'm missing something in the process.
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Hello, My M6 silver rewind knob and washers have loosened and fallen off. I am still waiting to hear back from Leica parts coordinator on whether it is a user replaceable part or if service is required. It has been over a month, and I have film inside the camera which I’m unable to extract. In the meantime, I see there’s replacement rewind knobs available online, however I am unsure of where to find the correct washers/spring replacements? Can anyone help with advice on where to find replacement washers, and directions for replacing the knob & washers on my own? Thank you in advance!
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My M6 Classic meter just died. I changed to a new battery and still dead. So what options do I have now? Guess its Leica Germany with 12 months service time and €2 000, if its even possible. I want to swear but I guess its not allowed. 🙂
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Hello! I was curious what most folks use to clean their M6 bodies (isopropyl, metal varnish, etc) ? It's in great shape, but around the shutter dial and in the hotshoe there is some grime/dirt build up. There is also some slight dirt (it looks like?) under where the advance lever is. It's only able to be seen in the right light and doesn't just rub off.
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I've recently noticed that my M6 shutter seems to be doing something weird while in bulb mode. While in bulb mode, the first shutter curtain seems to stop short and remain 0.5-1mm into the film gate. This only happens in bulb mode, it clears the gate at all other shutter speeds as far as I can tell. Here is a video I recorded demonstrating what I mean: https://imgur.com/a/ENYmR7i You can see that the shutter clears the gate just fine when set to a shutter speed of 1 second, but when I switch it to bulb it seems to stop short and remains visible in the gate until the shutter release is let go and the shutter closes. I asked on Reddit but didn't get much of a response. One user did say that their M6 also does this and has no effect on the images. Can anyone else confirm? I just had my M6 overhauled by Leica NJ earlier this year so would this be something they would cover under some kind of warranty?
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Article on the Online Photographer website about a recent interview with Dr Kaufmann on a French website. Interesting snippets regarding film & digital M production numbers. PS - wasn't sure if this was the best place for the post - feel free to move it if it would garner more readers elsewhere.
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There are currently five analog M bodies in regular production: MP black paint, MP silver, M-A black, M-A silver, and M6 reissue. Which is your favourite? Or, rather, if you had to delete one from the lineup, which model would it be? I’ve handled and used all of them except the black M-A. I think the black paint MP is the most stunning. That said, I believe the M6 reissue holds its own against the MP and M-A and is quickly becoming my go-to analog camera.
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I use the IDS grip on my M10-P because I feel the M10-P is too heavy to grip for long time with the bare body. But for M4, I’m not sure if I also need a handgrip because it is way lighter than M10-P with the same lens setup. And for aesthetic reason I don’ like the IDS grip for analog M and also many other grips that enclose the whole baseplate with considerably ugly thickness add to the body. I very much prefer the sleek design of analog M-bodies. So I want to try the 14405 but when I saw its second-hand price I hesitated and found the made-in-our-China replica only sells at 1/3 of the preown-price for 14405. So I ordered one, but disappointed once I put it on. There is plenty much room between the handle and the body of my M4, and the grip becomes unsteady and crappy. I asked the manufacturer and his response is they made it primarily for M6, period. I have never touched an M6 in real life so I doubt if there is really that much difference between the M4 and M6? I thought the Leica Ms are quite consistent with the M4 design after the M5 affairs…
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First sample is at 1/125 ss. Notice the white stripe near the right edge. It looks pretty much the same at 1/250 and 1/500, however, at 1/60 it's gone. I haven't seen the results at 1/60, but that's what I've been told. Last sample is at 1/1000 and things are much worse there. I am going to make more tests, but what do you think it can be? Shutter? A body was stored without lens attached to it and without front cap covering the mount, so shutter was basically uncovered. However, I couldn't find any obvious signs of damage on shutter. And if it's a shutter problem, repair would probably cost more then a camera itself, right?
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Hi, I recently acquired M6 TTL 0.85. Also, I do have A7 and using Nokton 40mm f1.4 with it (only M lens). So technically, I am looking for 2nd lens for my M6... Reason I got camera with 0.85 is because larger viewfinder lines and I am not shooting much of 28mm. Mostly, using camera for family portraits, some street and urban photography. Would like to try 3rd party 50mm (Planar, Sonnar, CV), Leica's 75mm or Leica 50's under $1,000. Almost pull a trigger at Planar, but wanted to hear from more experienced members of this Forum suggestions, hints what are solid performers with Leica's signature. I was using Summicron-R with A7 for some time and was very happy, but currently Cron-M is out of my reach. Also, I am thinking to get 75mm for portraits. Would like to have Cron-M in 75mm, concerned about the weight (cost as well). Among other lens recommendation that would like to hear from you, what is good Summicron-M pre APO version under $1,000?... and how does it compare with modern Zeiss or Voigtlander lenses? Thank you very much to all. Best, Goran
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I have just got my leica m6. part of the shutter curtains got some dots and wonder if it is ok? the light meter works and camera is in good condition. i have not tried to develop any pics yet, so not sure if its leaking any light or working as it should. does anybody know what this dots are and would you return it?
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Hi Guys, I've been using my M6 TTL without an issue for sometime and then I left it dormant for around a year when I left the country... Now the meter wont work , the M6 would work fine and still take pictures if exposed correctly with an external light meter, but the mechanism now would not turn on. I'm based in NYC and have sent it to the Leica repair and they sent it back saying that they can't fix it because they "no longer have the parts", I contact Sherry Krauter and she said that she gets her parts from Leica, so if they don't have it, she won't either. So really now I'm just asking for help! Thanks! H
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Guten Tag zusammen. Ich habe mal wieder meine alte Leica m6 ausgepackt und zurück ins Leben geholt. Alles funktioniert soweit noch einwandfrei, bis auf den Bildfeldwähler. Ich habe ein Summicron 50mm Objektiv drauf und der Bildausschnitt von 50 + 75 mm wird auch im Sucher angezeigt. Der Ausschnitt 35 + 135 mm wird beim zur Seite bewegen des Hebels auch sichtbar. Nur der Ausschnitt 28 + 90mm zeigt sich beim nach innen bewegen des Hebels nicht. Es bleibt der 50 + 75 mm Ausschnitt zu sehen. Hat jemand schonmal von diesem Problem gehört und weiß was die Ursache dafür sein könnte. Dr Google konnte mir bis hierhin leider nicht weiterhelfen... liebe Grüße und danke im Voraus!
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Hey all. I have an M240 and M6. The only thing about the M6 is that the shutter dial is in reverse to most other leicas. Is it possible to somehow modify it so its reversed? I know the M6 TTL has the dial in reverse but i don't want the 0.85 window, because of consistency with my M240. Any ideas? Cheers
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Hallo, nach längerer Zeit bin mit meiner M6 mal wieder wie "in den guten alten Zeiten" ein wenig durch die Gegend gezogen. Im Dortmunder Osten habe ich diese nette Straßenszene eingefangen, viel Spaß damit. Benutzt wurde ein Summicron 2/50 an der M6, der Film war ein Kodak 200er- Farbnegativfilm. Die Belichtung war 1/125 bei Blende 8-11. Durch die relativ tief stehende Sonne von Seite her wurde die ganze Szenerie gut ausgeleuchtet. Ich war bei der gewählten Belichtung skeptisch ob da was Vernünftiges herauskommt, aber das Ergebnis fand ich doch am Ende ganz überzeugend. Scan von KB-Negativ , nur in der Breite heruntergerechnet, keine sonstige Bearbeitung.
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Hallo zusammen, ich bräuchte mal die versammelte Kompentenz in diesem Forum. Bei einer meiner M6 ist eine Schraube am Filmtransporthebel verloren gegangen die den Plastikaufsatz auf dem Filmtransporthebel festhält und gleichzeitig dessen Beweglichkeit ermöglicht. Ich würde jetzt mal auf eine Zapfenschraube in der Größe M3x1 oder ähnliche Dimension tippen. Ich füge mal zwei Fotos zur Erklärung bei. Ein Bild zeigt den Hebel mit den noch vorhandenen Teilen an der einen M6 (ohne Schraube) und das andere Foto den Normalzustand (mit Schraube). Kann mir hier jemand weiterhelfen bzw. hat so eine Schraube für mich übrig? Vielen Dank im Voraus!
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So I bought my first Leica M6 0,72 TTL couple of weeks ago and was finally getting my roll developed at a Local lab here in Stockholm. Getting back the rolls I saw leaks on the negatives and prints, going from the first few frames, then skip a few frames and come back at frame 10-12. After that nothing on the rest of the roll. Some have leaks going across from perf to perf and on one or two frames it only occurs around the perfs but not affecting the image. And it's not on the same spot of the frame, it moves back and forth. I shoot a 400 Kentmere factory loaded. The seller says that he never had problems with leaks of the camera, but is very helpful to help me get this sorted. Anyone know what this can be? I really hope it's the film, waiting to get back my second roll and hoping for the best...
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Hi all! Happy to be part of this group! I am really looking forward to the analog Leica rangefinder experience. I just shot my first roll of film this weekend and picked up my scans. However, I was a bit underwhelmed when I saw some artifacts that shouldn't have been there. I'm not sure what it is as I am unfamiliar with analog, so I thought it might be best to attach photos to describe what I'm seeing. I am curious to know if my copy of the M6 is defective, and what part is. First example, the bottom half of the photo is blacked out. What would be the cause for this? https://flic.kr/p/Z8c3YN Second Image, you can trace a faint blue line going from the center person's left calve all the way up past the dog's right eye: https://www.flickr.com/photos/101100257@N04/36814955114/sizes/l Third Image: Similar situation, a faint blue line going across the center (most obvious from his right arm): https://www.flickr.com/photos/101100257@N04/36814953464/sizes/l Fourth, is this light leaking from the top left corner? https://flic.kr/p/Y6dj47 I would greatly appreciate your insight. My gear: Leica M6 classic, Zeiss Biogon 35/2 Film: Fujifilm Fujicolor 200
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Kamera und Sucherrahmen für 90 Objektiv
andreas61 posted a topic in Leica M-A / M7 / MP und Analog M
Liebe Forumsmitglieder, ich habe ein sehr gut erhaltenes 90er Objektiv und möchte gerne Portraits photographieren. Da ich noch auf der Suche nach einer Kamera (M6) bin, habe ich bei einem bekannten Fachhändler angerufen. Dieser meint, dass die M6 eher für 50er Objektive und Streetphotographie ausgelegt ist und dass es mit einer Suchervergößerung 0.85X /90er schwierig für Anfänger ist, vernünftige Ergebnisse zu erhalten. Da er Experte ist und ich Laie denke ich, dass der gute Mann Recht hat. Dennoch würde ich gern von Euren Erfahrungen lesen. Muss ich das Objektiv abstoßen? Also Kombi M6 / 50er als Brillenträger mit Dioptrin +2,0? Danke für Eure Tipps. Viele Grüße andreas61 -
Hello everybody, I need some advice regarding repairing/CLA of an M6. The camera seems to have shutter capping (It might be partially my fault since I took out the camera at -7 degrees Celsius a whole day, however, after that, I shoot a roll in a normal temperature environment -my house- and everything was fine, all the images were fine) So... these are my questions: 1. Do I sent the camera to Leica Camera without prior notice? I mean, do I ship it with DHL and that's it? I'm asking this because on their service page they do not specify all the types of Leicas they are repairing. I'm assuming M6 is one of them but it's better to play it safe. 2. I want my problem to be fixed and also I want a full CLA (I've noticed some gunk on the winding gears and the low exposure times are not quite accurate). Should I specify the CLA part in the attached document or the CLA of a camera comes by default with the repairing process? 3. Please don't laugh on this one but the camera will be sent to: Leica Camera AG, Am Leitz-Park 5, Wetzlar, Germany? I'm asking that just to be sure that I'm sending the camera to the right address. I realize the questions are a little bit odd but I never sent a camera for a CLA (I usually shoot with two EOS3 cameras-never had a problem). I bought recently this Leica from Ebay and I want to make it "as new" before I start shooting with it intensively. Thanks in advance for the answers Cheers L.