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  1. After M6 TTL was proclaimed non-repairable by Leica Camera 2 years ago due to the lack of main circuit boards the same has now apparetly happened to M6 Classic, as per DAG website. The folks at RF forum wrote about the repair of the board not being a simple one and joked that after a possible malfunction your M6 Classic will be demoted to a M4-P free of charge.
  2. Portrait of Appalachian Bootlegger, The Mountain.
  3. Dutchess County, 2022.
  4. I'm looking to trade up my 35mm Summicron ASPH to a Summilux for my M6. I shoot only film and so I've been craving a slightly faster lens that'll go well with slow film. After some research, I'm torn between all the different types of Summilux's: - Pre-ASPH/Classic (cheaper, prone to flare, prone to focus shift, softer on the edges, and has the classic Leica glow/rendition) - Aspherical (super expensive, a non-option for me) - ASPH (a little cheaper than the FLE, still prone to focus shift, sharper than the Pre-ASPH, still has the classic Leica glow/rendition - not as much as Pre-ASPH though) - ASPH FLE (expensive, no focus shift, really sharp, lots of contrast, more modern Leica look) I'm leaning towards the ASPH and ASPH FLE, and the only reason why I'm leaning towards the ASPH FLE was that the focus shift is mostly eliminated with the floating lens element. However, I kind of like the classic Leica look that the regular ASPH has. I've also read places that focus shift is less prominent in film cameras. Is that really true? Should I just spring for the FLE version?
  5. Roughly one in six/ten photos shows significant flare (shooting with a Summicron 50mm f2) I've checked the lens and body internals, nothing appears wrong. Is this normal? Problem with lens or body?
  6. Hi, I have had a M6 (serial number is in the 1665000 range) for about 7 years now and to be honest, haven't used it a lot in the last few years, but fired it up again recently and noticed that I think the light meter is functioning odd. In the past, I could press the shutter button when the film wasn't wound on and the light meter would activate, briefly, and then I could set the exposure. Now it doesn't do that, but when I wind film on, it will activate the light meter and not turn off until a photo is taken. I ran a roll of film through and it works fine - i.e the exposures were fine - it just seems to activate differently that it used to. Is this a common thing anyone knows about? I live in Melbourne, Australia and it's tough to get a repairer here who will look at an M6. Any advice would be REALLY helpful. Thanks in advance! Scott (Also, I added a photo of my camera just 'cause it's a nice looking thing.)
  7. Hey Guys, I wanted to buy a used leica since months now. But I am still unsure if I should go with the M6 or the M4? The only big difference is that the M6 has a lightmeter and the M4 not. But since I work in the film industry. I wanted to buy a separate light meter anyway at some point. So is it better to go with the cheaper M4 and get also a good lens instead of spending a lot on the M6? Looking forward to your replies Best Thomas
  8. Has Leica ever officially confirmed that M6 TTL light meter is not repairable by them? I've read mixed information in this forum and elsewhere where "some" owners have sent the camera for light meter repair and some have had it repaired and others have received a response from Leica that they can't fix it. What specifically is so unique about the M6 TTL light meter vs the M6 classic light meter that makes it so complex for repair. Obviously I'm interested in purchasing an M6 TTL in great condition - found one specifically with a 0.58x viewfinder which is very important to me since I wear glasses and shoot primarily 28mm and 35mm. I enjoy the in-camera light meter and hoping that in a few years down the line ...the M6 TTL does not turn into M4-P if the light meter malfunctions for any reason. Thanks in advance for the feedback.
  9. Hi, I have to choose between two mint condition cameras, one is a upgraded viewfinder M7 and second one is a m6 classic with a recent CLA. I like the M7 as it gives me the option for aperture priority IF I want. But the one thing that worries me is the electronics, compared to the M6 mechanical inside. Please advise as I need to make a quick choice. The price is not the factor i need help with just the talk around riliabilty and posabilty to service IF it breaks down in a couple of years.
  10. Hello there! I feel like something is wrong with my Leica M6, but I can't confirm as it's my very first Leica (and I LOVE it). When it is 'powered' (fresh new batteries and not on Bulb mode), if I press the shutter half-way or even all-the-way, I don't get any reading in the viewfinder. The light meter is powered on and giving me a reading only when the wind lever has been pulled completely and the camera is ready to take a picture. While I can still use the camera properly, in specific light conditions (low light, cloudy and changing light) it's a bit risky to use as sometimes I have to wait 10-15 mins to have the natural lighting I'm looking for and the trigger could be pressed by inadvertence at any moment. Could you guys please confirm that: This is not normal, and the light meter should give me a reading even though I didn't pull the lever (as long as the camera is not on Bulb mode) It wouldn't be too crazy to fix as it should 'just' be a connection missing Thank you in advance.
  11. I just got a great deal on an M6 Classic, but it has very few bubbles here and there. (nothing major) I'm sure this subject has been written about multiple times on this forum and some of you may be tired of reading the same thing again and again. However, I was wondering if it would be possible to reverse the oxidation by getting it to bare zinc and painting it. Would it need to be treated with some type of chemical? Would it happen again? Sending it to Leica is not an option for me and M6 Classic top plates are hard to find online. So, is there any ways to reverse this zinc plague on the top plate?
  12. Liebe Forumsmitglieder, ich habe ein sehr gut erhaltenes 90er Objektiv und möchte gerne Portraits photographieren. Da ich noch auf der Suche nach einer Kamera (M6) bin, habe ich bei einem bekannten Fachhändler angerufen. Dieser meint, dass die M6 eher für 50er Objektive und Streetphotographie ausgelegt ist und dass es mit einer Suchervergößerung 0.85X /90er schwierig für Anfänger ist, vernünftige Ergebnisse zu erhalten. Da er Experte ist und ich Laie denke ich, dass der gute Mann Recht hat. Dennoch würde ich gern von Euren Erfahrungen lesen. Muss ich das Objektiv abstoßen? Also Kombi M6 / 50er als Brillenträger mit Dioptrin +2,0? Danke für Eure Tipps. Viele Grüße andreas61
  13. Dear all, first of all thanks in advance for your kind support. I have just bought a Leica M6 from an amateur and using it with a 50 Summilux. Analysing the camera, everything looked simply perfect and I bought it and the day after immediately tested it with a B&W roll to be self developed. That's exaclty when I realized that something was wrong: 1. My first issue has been related to film rewinding, after putting the camera on R mode, the lever was so tough to move and rotate and really really heavy 2. Then on film, the frames seem to be too spaced from each other as you can see in the picture below (at least 5 mm) 3. But what really concern me is the spring under the winder that seems to be damaged or somehow messy 4. Finally I realized putting another roll that during first 10 exposures the winder was light and creamy and after it becomes more and more to get tough as if it faces resistance somewhere. Do you know how can I sort this issue and how much could this cost? Thanks again for all your kind support and cooperation Daniele
  14. My 1st M6 film shot, here goes with analogue!
  15. First of many pictures taken in this italian city through the years
  16. Hi to everyone here, I currently owned M6 and MP (type 240) by nature, i usually like shooting at 35 mm focal length. I am aiming to upgrade my summicron asph to a summilux which 35mm summilux lens will be the ‘one lens’that would fit with my two camera bodies?(digital and film) I will be studying abroad( in edinburgh), so i would like to hear thoughts and comments from fellow experienced users in this forum. Thank you
  17. Hallo, nach längerer Zeit bin mit meiner M6 mal wieder wie "in den guten alten Zeiten" ein wenig durch die Gegend gezogen. Im Dortmunder Osten habe ich diese nette Straßenszene eingefangen, viel Spaß damit. Benutzt wurde ein Summicron 2/50 an der M6, der Film war ein Kodak 200er- Farbnegativfilm. Die Belichtung war 1/125 bei Blende 8-11. Durch die relativ tief stehende Sonne von Seite her wurde die ganze Szenerie gut ausgeleuchtet. Ich war bei der gewählten Belichtung skeptisch ob da was Vernünftiges herauskommt, aber das Ergebnis fand ich doch am Ende ganz überzeugend. Scan von KB-Negativ , nur in der Breite heruntergerechnet, keine sonstige Bearbeitung.
  18. Hallo zusammen, ich bräuchte mal die versammelte Kompentenz in diesem Forum. Bei einer meiner M6 ist eine Schraube am Filmtransporthebel verloren gegangen die den Plastikaufsatz auf dem Filmtransporthebel festhält und gleichzeitig dessen Beweglichkeit ermöglicht. Ich würde jetzt mal auf eine Zapfenschraube in der Größe M3x1 oder ähnliche Dimension tippen. Ich füge mal zwei Fotos zur Erklärung bei. Ein Bild zeigt den Hebel mit den noch vorhandenen Teilen an der einen M6 (ohne Schraube) und das andere Foto den Normalzustand (mit Schraube). Kann mir hier jemand weiterhelfen bzw. hat so eine Schraube für mich übrig? Vielen Dank im Voraus!
  19. Guten Tag zusammen. Ich habe mal wieder meine alte Leica m6 ausgepackt und zurück ins Leben geholt. Alles funktioniert soweit noch einwandfrei, bis auf den Bildfeldwähler. Ich habe ein Summicron 50mm Objektiv drauf und der Bildausschnitt von 50 + 75 mm wird auch im Sucher angezeigt. Der Ausschnitt 35 + 135 mm wird beim zur Seite bewegen des Hebels auch sichtbar. Nur der Ausschnitt 28 + 90mm zeigt sich beim nach innen bewegen des Hebels nicht. Es bleibt der 50 + 75 mm Ausschnitt zu sehen. Hat jemand schonmal von diesem Problem gehört und weiß was die Ursache dafür sein könnte. Dr Google konnte mir bis hierhin leider nicht weiterhelfen... liebe Grüße und danke im Voraus!
  20. Hi All, I'm struggling to find this information anywhere on the internet and hoping someone may be able to chime in. I have a Leica M6 (#168xxxx) and have a meter that is underexposing by 1 to 1 1/2 stops. I have confirmed this in 3 ways: 1) I've metered a gray card with an external meter and it differs from my M6 meter 2) I've metered a gray card with a Contax G2 meter and again, it differs from my M6 meter 3) all the photos I get back from the lab are consistently underexposed. I shoot 400 speed film and set the camera's ASA to 200 to let another stop light in and this fixes the problem. I'm curious if anyone knows if there is an adjustment that can be made to the meter so that I don't have to compensate this way forever. I had new light shields installed by DAG in July because of a light leak issue and the camera was apparently also checked for accurate shutter speeds, rangefinder and meter. I've emailed him again but haven't heard back in 3 days. Hoping someone else might be able to point me in the right direction. Thanks! mike
  21. I know, this topic has been up before. But the thing is that I own an M6 Panda manufactured 1989. What I´ve read and find out so far is that there was no Pandas around before -91. But I am 100% sure that my camera is an original from factory camera, based on from whom I bought it. First original owner and I know when and where he bought the camera, early 1990 in a small town in Sweden. My guess is that they started to be built in the series 1772501 - 1775000 in 1989. I have seen other up for sale within that range. The serial number is 1773xxx I need to do some more research on this topic.
  22. Hi everyone, I'm new to this forum and I'm new to Leica world. Yesterday I received my first Leica, a Black Classic M6. I thought it was a "bargain" at first, but now, after checking It all around, I see a misaligned of the top plate. How serious do you think it is? Is it solvable? I have not yet contacted the seller, I wanted to ask you first and then my trusted repairer. I hope it is nothing serious... Before taking it, the seller told me that the shutter had been serviced a few months earlier Thanks!
  23. Hello everybody, I need some advice regarding repairing/CLA of an M6. The camera seems to have shutter capping (It might be partially my fault since I took out the camera at -7 degrees Celsius a whole day, however, after that, I shoot a roll in a normal temperature environment -my house- and everything was fine, all the images were fine) So... these are my questions: 1. Do I sent the camera to Leica Camera without prior notice? I mean, do I ship it with DHL and that's it? I'm asking this because on their service page they do not specify all the types of Leicas they are repairing. I'm assuming M6 is one of them but it's better to play it safe. 2. I want my problem to be fixed and also I want a full CLA (I've noticed some gunk on the winding gears and the low exposure times are not quite accurate). Should I specify the CLA part in the attached document or the CLA of a camera comes by default with the repairing process? 3. Please don't laugh on this one but the camera will be sent to: Leica Camera AG, Am Leitz-Park 5, Wetzlar, Germany? I'm asking that just to be sure that I'm sending the camera to the right address. I realize the questions are a little bit odd but I never sent a camera for a CLA (I usually shoot with two EOS3 cameras-never had a problem). I bought recently this Leica from Ebay and I want to make it "as new" before I start shooting with it intensively. Thanks in advance for the answers Cheers L.
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