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Showing results for tags 'm6'.
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Shot film in the 80s and 90s (Olympus and Nikon) then digital only for past 20 years (including SL 601 since it came out) Loaded my Nikon F5 last year and loved shooting film again. Now considering an M. Have read and watched all I can, so understand the differences between the 3 currently available film M cameras but still undecided. Don’t mind black or chrome (and not chasing a BP finish). Have always had a light meter in my camera (apart from shooting my Dad’s old Ilford as a kid) but am attracted to the simplicity of the M-A. Areas I could use advice on include the following please: - quality control issues, not sure if M6 scratching film issue has gone away. - viewfinder, which is best? (My eyesight is ok but am in mid 50s). - reliability over the long term. Anyone else been in my situation? How did you choose? Thanks for your help everyone.
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A double whammy festive year of two major M landmarks, the M3 (1954) and M6 (1984). What in your opinion is Leica cooking up for these jubilee anniversaries? I feel a special edition or two coming up…
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Hello! I had previously posted some questions about using the Leica SF20 flash with my M6 TTL. I've shot through a few rolls since first getting it and quite liked the results (and experimenting a bit!) However, on my latest roll when trying to use the flash I can't seem to get the flash unit to fire in any mode while on camera. I... - Turned off the body - Attached the flash to the hot-shoe - Turned on the body to flash sync speed (or slower) - Turned on the SF20 to "TTL" mode, and tap the soft shutter on the M6 and the LCD reads out "400 iso" When trying to take a photo and looking through the viewfinder I see the flash symbol (it's solid) on the right hand side, and when taking a photo it never flashes/blinks/etc. From the M6 manual I assume _something_ should occur with the indicator, and the flash should fire. I've checked the hot-shoe contacts and it all seems fine. I haven't tried swapping out M6 batteries yet, or flash batteries because it fires on tests just fine, and my meter workout without issue. Is there anything else I should check or try out? I was able to test the SF20 on a friend's Fujifilm and it fired without issue in "auto" mode. I tried manual/auto and it didn't do anything either. Very odd!
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During my last couple of trips in colder temperatures I've noticed that once temperatures get slightly cold the light meter of my M6 gets fairly unreliable. Meaning that the little arrows either don't show up at all, are barely visible or simply give me wrong meterings. I'm assuming it has something to do with the cold draining the batteries. But the temperatures I was in weren't exactly "freezing" - mostly between 0 and 15 Celcius (32 and 59 Fahrenheit) - so I'm not sure. Is this a common issue? Is there a simple fix? Maybe a battery thats more resistant to cold temperatures? Any help would be appreciated! -
I've recently purchased an SF20 flash to use with my M6 TTL. I'm trying to make sure I am understanding how to use the TTL setting for the flash properly. After checking the manual it's been pretty unclear, so I have a few questions. 1. As for usage is it as simple as setting the camera+flash to TTL, setting the ISO on the camera, and changing the exposure to your liking? My assumption is the flash will output enough to properly expose for any scene, so just ignore the in camera meter? 2. Setting any settings (aperture/etc) on the flash while in TTL mode only shows you the distance output on the back of the flash, but does it alter the functionality of the flash power output or is it just for reference if you so choose? 3. What other things are worth noting when using flash in TTL mode (or I suppose manual?) It seems that in TTL mode it's mostly just hands off and pretty simple, but I feel like I'm missing something in the process.
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Hello, My M6 silver rewind knob and washers have loosened and fallen off. I am still waiting to hear back from Leica parts coordinator on whether it is a user replaceable part or if service is required. It has been over a month, and I have film inside the camera which I’m unable to extract. In the meantime, I see there’s replacement rewind knobs available online, however I am unsure of where to find the correct washers/spring replacements? Can anyone help with advice on where to find replacement washers, and directions for replacing the knob & washers on my own? Thank you in advance!
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My M6 Classic meter just died. I changed to a new battery and still dead. So what options do I have now? Guess its Leica Germany with 12 months service time and €2 000, if its even possible. I want to swear but I guess its not allowed. 🙂
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Hello! I was curious what most folks use to clean their M6 bodies (isopropyl, metal varnish, etc) ? It's in great shape, but around the shutter dial and in the hotshoe there is some grime/dirt build up. There is also some slight dirt (it looks like?) under where the advance lever is. It's only able to be seen in the right light and doesn't just rub off.
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I've recently noticed that my M6 shutter seems to be doing something weird while in bulb mode. While in bulb mode, the first shutter curtain seems to stop short and remain 0.5-1mm into the film gate. This only happens in bulb mode, it clears the gate at all other shutter speeds as far as I can tell. Here is a video I recorded demonstrating what I mean: https://imgur.com/a/ENYmR7i You can see that the shutter clears the gate just fine when set to a shutter speed of 1 second, but when I switch it to bulb it seems to stop short and remains visible in the gate until the shutter release is let go and the shutter closes. I asked on Reddit but didn't get much of a response. One user did say that their M6 also does this and has no effect on the images. Can anyone else confirm? I just had my M6 overhauled by Leica NJ earlier this year so would this be something they would cover under some kind of warranty? -
Article on the Online Photographer website about a recent interview with Dr Kaufmann on a French website. Interesting snippets regarding film & digital M production numbers. PS - wasn't sure if this was the best place for the post - feel free to move it if it would garner more readers elsewhere.
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There are currently five analog M bodies in regular production: MP black paint, MP silver, M-A black, M-A silver, and M6 reissue. Which is your favourite? Or, rather, if you had to delete one from the lineup, which model would it be? I’ve handled and used all of them except the black M-A. I think the black paint MP is the most stunning. That said, I believe the M6 reissue holds its own against the MP and M-A and is quickly becoming my go-to analog camera. -
Had a roll back off my M6 from the developers and they’d made a note of light leaks on some frames. Definitely not on all of them, it is quite random. Someone has suggested that it’s shutter capping, anyone else throw out an opinion as to the issue?
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Hi, i need some advice Is it worth to get M6 TTL Millenium, Dragon 2000 or MP Black paint? Problem is Dragon has 0.85 mag, i wear glasses also i heard that mp has better vf, not much flaring Second, the price of those m6 limited are close to new MP Black paint Regards Mike -
Hi all, Just had my M6 CLA’d due to a light leak around the shutter curtains. They are demonstrating some curling and leave a light leak when a frame is left in the gate for too long. The tech replaces the baffles among other things but I can still see a bit of light at the edges when shining a bright light. He claims that is normal and his other Leicas also have this. Can anyone attest if that is true by checking your shutter curtain edges when shining a bright light inside? much obliged Boe
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Hi all, Just had my M6 CLA’d due to a light leak around the shutter curtains. They are demonstrating some curling and leave a light leak when a frame is left in the gate for too long. The tech replaces the baffles among other things but I can still see a bit of light at the edges when shining a bright light. He claims that is normal and his other Leicas also have this. Can anyone attest if that is true by checking your shutter curtain edges when shining a bright light inside? much obliged! Boe
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Hi All, I'm struggling to find this information anywhere on the internet and hoping someone may be able to chime in. I have a Leica M6 (#168xxxx) and have a meter that is underexposing by 1 to 1 1/2 stops. I have confirmed this in 3 ways: 1) I've metered a gray card with an external meter and it differs from my M6 meter 2) I've metered a gray card with a Contax G2 meter and again, it differs from my M6 meter 3) all the photos I get back from the lab are consistently underexposed. I shoot 400 speed film and set the camera's ASA to 200 to let another stop light in and this fixes the problem. I'm curious if anyone knows if there is an adjustment that can be made to the meter so that I don't have to compensate this way forever. I had new light shields installed by DAG in July because of a light leak issue and the camera was apparently also checked for accurate shutter speeds, rangefinder and meter. I've emailed him again but haven't heard back in 3 days. Hoping someone else might be able to point me in the right direction. Thanks! mike
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Hallo Leica-Freunde, ich habe ein Problem mit meiner M6 TTL (0,58): die (bei Kleinanzeigen) erstandene Sucherlupe lässt sich leider nur ca. 1/8 bis 1/4 Gewindegang auf den Sucher aufschrauben. Muss man bei der Montage irgendwas beachten oder muss man irgendwas am Sucher einstellen oder ändern, damit die Lupe passt? Danke und Gruß, Sumatra -
Hello everybody, I need some advice regarding repairing/CLA of an M6. The camera seems to have shutter capping (It might be partially my fault since I took out the camera at -7 degrees Celsius a whole day, however, after that, I shoot a roll in a normal temperature environment -my house- and everything was fine, all the images were fine) So... these are my questions: 1. Do I sent the camera to Leica Camera without prior notice? I mean, do I ship it with DHL and that's it? I'm asking this because on their service page they do not specify all the types of Leicas they are repairing. I'm assuming M6 is one of them but it's better to play it safe. 2. I want my problem to be fixed and also I want a full CLA (I've noticed some gunk on the winding gears and the low exposure times are not quite accurate). Should I specify the CLA part in the attached document or the CLA of a camera comes by default with the repairing process? 3. Please don't laugh on this one but the camera will be sent to: Leica Camera AG, Am Leitz-Park 5, Wetzlar, Germany? I'm asking that just to be sure that I'm sending the camera to the right address. I realize the questions are a little bit odd but I never sent a camera for a CLA (I usually shoot with two EOS3 cameras-never had a problem). I bought recently this Leica from Ebay and I want to make it "as new" before I start shooting with it intensively. Thanks in advance for the answers Cheers L.
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I know, this topic has been up before. But the thing is that I own an M6 Panda manufactured 1989. What I´ve read and find out so far is that there was no Pandas around before -91. But I am 100% sure that my camera is an original from factory camera, based on from whom I bought it. First original owner and I know when and where he bought the camera, early 1990 in a small town in Sweden. My guess is that they started to be built in the series 1772501 - 1775000 in 1989. I have seen other up for sale within that range. The serial number is 1773xxx I need to do some more research on this topic.
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Hello folks! New to the forums. I have a m6 that I'm been using with a 2.5 50mm cron. I'm getting superb images overall, however I feel like there are some that are not coming back sharp or in focus. Especially ones focused at infinity. I'm wondering if it's an issue with my m6 or cron. A few images attached as example. Thoughts?
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Hi there, I recently purchased an M6 and plan to shoot black and white film with my 35 Summicron Version 2 8 Element lens. I read that many people use either the orange / yellow filter when it comes to shooting monochrome, I would just like to get your thoughts on which one serves better as an all purpose lens? And how exactly are they different when applied? Thanks! Regards, Jeffrey -
So I bought my first Leica M6 0,72 TTL couple of weeks ago and was finally getting my roll developed at a Local lab here in Stockholm. Getting back the rolls I saw leaks on the negatives and prints, going from the first few frames, then skip a few frames and come back at frame 10-12. After that nothing on the rest of the roll. Some have leaks going across from perf to perf and on one or two frames it only occurs around the perfs but not affecting the image. And it's not on the same spot of the frame, it moves back and forth. I shoot a 400 Kentmere factory loaded. The seller says that he never had problems with leaks of the camera, but is very helpful to help me get this sorted. Anyone know what this can be? I really hope it's the film, waiting to get back my second roll and hoping for the best...
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Hi all! Happy to be part of this group! I am really looking forward to the analog Leica rangefinder experience. I just shot my first roll of film this weekend and picked up my scans. However, I was a bit underwhelmed when I saw some artifacts that shouldn't have been there. I'm not sure what it is as I am unfamiliar with analog, so I thought it might be best to attach photos to describe what I'm seeing. I am curious to know if my copy of the M6 is defective, and what part is. First example, the bottom half of the photo is blacked out. What would be the cause for this? https://flic.kr/p/Z8c3YN Second Image, you can trace a faint blue line going from the center person's left calve all the way up past the dog's right eye: https://www.flickr.com/photos/101100257@N04/36814955114/sizes/l Third Image: Similar situation, a faint blue line going across the center (most obvious from his right arm): https://www.flickr.com/photos/101100257@N04/36814953464/sizes/l Fourth, is this light leaking from the top left corner? https://flic.kr/p/Y6dj47 I would greatly appreciate your insight. My gear: Leica M6 classic, Zeiss Biogon 35/2 Film: Fujifilm Fujicolor 200 -
Hey all. I have an M240 and M6. The only thing about the M6 is that the shutter dial is in reverse to most other leicas. Is it possible to somehow modify it so its reversed? I know the M6 TTL has the dial in reverse but i don't want the 0.85 window, because of consistency with my M240. Any ideas? Cheers
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