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Showing results for tags 'm6 classic'.
Found 4 results
Hi I just got a flash for my M6 classic (the sf24d). I got it from a friend, because he thought it was broken. I sent it to Leica and got a new one in return! But: I dont know how to use it with tri-x in semi-sunny daylight (sunny-16 dont work with 1/50th shutterspeed and f/8:)). Do any of you have a few tips to a novice in flash photography? Thank you. Regards Øystein
So here is my story: I bought me an M6 and 50 Cron last winter, and i frigging love it. It is small, rugged and precise, everything i want in a camera. This summer i bought me a 28mm 2.0 Ultron to explore the wider aspects of RF photography and i really like it, BUT it is optically inferior to M-glass, has a bigger filter dimension, and it blocks too much of my finder. Also, i simply do not trust it. It seems unpredictable and mechanically inferior to my other Leica lens. Also, I am wearing glasses, which keeps me from seeing the entire 28 frame-lines. As part of my future plans i will do some extensive travelling, and so i am trying to figure out weather to get me an 28mm Elmarit ASPH + external viewfinder OR a 35mm Cron ASPH. I MIGHT get me an M4 or M6 as backup in the future, but as of now i shoot one body only. Most of my work is environmental portraits and landscapes, and i enjoy having my subject wide, but up close. I realize the 35mm is a somewhat of a middle-ground between 28 and 50, but i am not quite ready to give up on my wide® angle photography just yet. How is working with an external finder on a main-lens? 28(VF)+50mm or 35mm solo? All thoughts and experiences are appreciated. I know these are impossible questions to "answer", as it totally depends on each individual photographer, but what are YOUR experiences surrounding these lenses and/or working with an external viewfinder and glasses etc? Thanks!
I hope that you can give me some advice. My Leica M6 classic's light meter is playing up. It is intermittently working. I've put in fresh lithium batts. and when the meter does come up into view it is much brighter than previously, if it is showing at all. Is this a connection issue or a problem with the light meter itself. Is there anything that I can try to remedy the problem? Cheers
I just got a great deal on an M6 Classic, but it has very few bubbles here and there. (nothing major) I'm sure this subject has been written about multiple times on this forum and some of you may be tired of reading the same thing again and again. However, I was wondering if it would be possible to reverse the oxidation by getting it to bare zinc and painting it. Would it need to be treated with some type of chemical? Would it happen again? Sending it to Leica is not an option for me and M6 Classic top plates are hard to find online. So, is there any ways to reverse this zinc plague on the top plate?