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I've been using the CL for many years, (2018 I think) and as much as this system is perfect in size and in the quality of the images produced, it suffers from a few imperfections linked to its autofocus which sometimes makes it frustrating compared to more current systems. I was able to use the Q3 43 for a few days, and I'm won over by this camera, but I find that it still suffers from a few shortcomings in terms of autofocus, particularly in face recognition, and this is an important point for me. In terms of pure image quality, it's beautiful, it's clean, but less impressive than the Summilux Q2/Q3 28 in my opinion... It's true that I'm in love with the Summilux M 35, TL35 rendering. Unfortunately, the Q3 28 is not an option for me, as it doesn't suit my eye. The 43mm focal length is interesting, right between the 35mm I love on the M and the 52 equivalent I use on the CL with the TL35. Does the Apo 43 really deliver what I'm looking for in terms of rendering? hard to answer over a short period of use... For the moment, I find the CL + TL35 rendering very close to the Q3 43, hence my questioning. Another thought is an SL3 with or without S and an APO 35 or 50 lens, but the system loses a lot of compactness... I'd love to hear your comments

Hi Guys, I currently shoot Portra 160 & 400 on a Leica M7 with 35mm Summilux ASPH pre FLE and 50 cron. I love the look of film and the overall experience, but as I live in a small town I need to ship my film off to a decent lab, which makes it quite time consuming, as well as expensive. I am not interested in processing film myself or scanning negatives, so am considering getting an M10 to supplement my M7. Basically I would use both, M10 in lower light or when I didn't want to wait for images. I do not expect to ever sell the M7. What I am wondering is if the M10 files can be easily tweaked to look similar to images shot on Portra 160/400. In the few direct comparisons I have seen the digital files look very different to film in terms of color etc. but these are always straight out of camera jpegs. I know I will need to tweak the raw files in lightroom to get a similar look, I was just wondering if: 1. Anyone here shoots Portra 160 and 400 beside the M10 and can comment on matching the colors of the digital files to a Noritsu scan. 2. If you use a preset, which one best achieves the look with minimal additional work? 3. Are there any specific exposure settings needed on the original M10 to be able to match the files? I'd like to restrict my post-processing if possible - I shoot professionally and the reason I started shooting film again was because the last thing I wanted to do was shoot with my workday gear on weekends and have to edit my own raw files. I know that an M10 purchase takes me back to editing but I'm hoping it can be a quick and relatively painless process if I get a suitable workflow and don't overshoot. I'm only interested in the M10, not R version as I am happy with 24MP for this purpose and don't want my face rubbed in how shaky my images are with no IBIS. Thanks!

We're happy to announce that we'll be hosting a monthly social meet up and photo walk, named Bristol Leica Social. The first meeting will be on April 1st, 2017, and on the first Saturday of every month thereafter. We'll be meeting at the store on Baldwin St (3 alliance house, Baldwin St, BS1 1SA) at 9am. We'll be heading out from the store in self picked groups to take images around the centre, aiming to meet at a café at 12 noon to compare images and discuss all things Leica. The shop will be open as usual, and we will be here as usual to have a chat or demo any items (depending on stock availability) There is no cost to attend, but attendees are encouraged to bring money for any refreshments required as you walk around. Leica users of all kinds are welcome, and so are those who don't own a Leica but wish to learn more about the brand and the beautiful products that they offer. For current updates and more information, we have an event page on our Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/lcebristol/.

Hi Guys, Has anyone tried the newly released Handevision IBERIT series of lenses on your M camera? Just looking for some input on what looks to be a valuable alternative. Thanks. Robert E

Moin, hat schon jemand es geschafft, die M10 über die App mit dem Smartphone zu verbinden? Bin da am Verzweifeln - und dabei von Fuji und Nikon einiges gewöhnt.... Ja, Handbuch habe ich gelesen und auch so umgesetzt... Und ja, ich habe tatsächlich schon eine Danke für eure Hilfe. Viele Grüße Stefan

Hello everyone! I'm new here, nice to meet you. It's a little bit of a let down to see the M10 doesn't have a "real" BULB mode but it's limited to 125s. Similar to the Leica Q... It's also weird that the time is ISO dependent. I was wondering, why is that? The SL gets to 30min for example or the D810 can up to 1h30min and beyond i T mode. Thanks for your time, Tomas.

M10 just a few months old. Shutter suddenly started clipping 70% of image at 1/4000. Also looks like it's not quite getting out of the way at 1/3000, either. Is this common? Back to the factory? Samples attached.

Hi All, I recently just purchsed the Leica M10 (upgraded from the M240), and would like to seek your advice on which of the 2 lenses above I should get. I have attached the following list of bodies and lenses that I currently have. M10 M6 Konica Hexanon 60mm F1.2 Leica 50mm F2 Summicron APO Leica 35mm F2 Summicron Version 2 (8 elements) I shoot with my digial M 95% of the time (well I did only just recently purchased the M6) with my 50APO. I plan on using the 8 Elements more on the M6 for Black and White photography. So now that I am looking to add a wide angle lens, which of the 2 would you recommend? I know many people say that it's best to pair a 28mm with a 50mm, and a 24mm with a 35mm; and that 28 would work better if I wish to shoot some street + landscape, whereas the 24mm will be better for pure landscape. But do both lenses render really differently? Is it that much more convenient knowing that u do not need an EVF for the Elmarit? Could the Elmar be used for some street photography as well? And since the 28mm is much newer, does it have something the other doesn't? I would really appreciate if those of you who own / have used both lens could let me know your thoughts on both lenses performance wise, and which would you pick if you were me. Thanks a bunch! Cheers, Jeffrey

I am wondering if anyone has experience with the Nissin i60 flash, and its compatibility with the M10 or M246? I don't care about TTL as I never use it, and I have the i40, but I would like a tad more power sometimes. Seems like it would be identical to the i40...but please let me know if you have used, or heard anything. Cheers! Ben

First let me say I love this camera. Ive been working with M cameras for almost 20 years, I was very enthusiastic about the arrival of every digital version and very let down in one way or the other with each .. until now. My only small gripe is that the highlights do go very quickly. I know how to shoot for the highlights etc etc but.. but id so love a tiny bit more material to work with. Please understand don't need 15 stops DR. So my question is that is it possible that a future firmware can pull this trick?

Did anyone have problems with loose thumb support? I lost mine the other day when I was changing battery on the street and turned camera upside down. It fell down (ground surface was soft so I didn't hear the drop ). It happened in Stockholm and the only explanation I could think of, is that because temperature dropped close to zero thumb up shrank little bit and became loose. I felt this loosens couple days before but didn't think much of it.

I came across this rather bizarre and humorous scene whilst shooting downtown street images. Hispanic Elvis refuses to reveal his real name but he can be been spotted in many of San Antonio’s most popular tourist destinations. He's very popular on Instagram feeds! Leica M10 + 35 cron

Hi there I'm new to the forum and I have recently purchased two lenses and one camera I been using m9 for 4 years and Yes, I'm impressed by the new Leica M10 and two new lenses. Unfortunately, when I been playing around with my 50 MM Apo for the first time, I spot the aperture ring is loose. it also rattles when I hold it and move up and down or touch it with more applied force. I have read Steve huff review. he also mentioned that he needed to send this lens back to Leica in order to tighten the barrel ring up. However, I'm quite worried about it as the lens is very expensive and now I'm asking my dealer if they can do anything better off I would like here the experience from the gentleman or lady here Anyone one here faced this issue before or its normal? all advice and answer would be really appreciated.

I have been poking around a lot in the jpegs the M10 produces using Exiftool. I'm working on a project where I'm trying to get preview data out of the files as quickly as possible. Thus far I'm not impressed or at least confused by the data in the files. Just about any operation throws out an ICC profile length warning, apparently when the declared profile length doesn't match the actual length of the profile: Warning: Bad length ICC_Profile (length 3144) Also try extracting the preview images and thumbnail images: exiftool -a -b -W %d%f_%t%-c.%s -preview:all *.JPG Extracted preview images are unreadable by chrome, safari, and preview.app, but oddly Firefox reads and displays and image. These are a nice size at 1440x940 and 133kb, and it'd be great to use them since the Maestro processor has already done the work to resize them. The thumbnails are 160px wide and base64-encoded. They seem have black bars at the top and bottom. You can see them as iPhone iOS reads an SD card and otherwise on macOS. Extracting these works, but they have black bars along the top and bottom. Since I'm seeing this on the apple platforms and with ExifTool I think those bars may be part of the data. The DNG is another story. It appears to be healthier. From the DNG, a similar thumbnail image is present with the black bars. There are two preview images embedded in the DNG file. First is a ~1.6MB jpeg at 100/24MP size. Presumably this is the chimping image we actually see when we zoom in while using the back of the camera. The second is the 1440x940 small preview image from the jpeg, but this time it's intact and readable by usual programs. It seems like something is wrong with the JPG files the camera creates, like the EXIF data is improperly copied or something. This is frustrating, for $7000 this should be correct.

Dear Senior members, I just received my m10 camera early October. Besides using the modern Leica lens, I do like the compactness of the old collapsible Leica lens of the 1950s. I have the old Leica ELMOM 50 / 2.8 and SOONC 35 / 3.5, both are in collapsible version. The m10 instruction booklet advises not to collapse the lens whilst mounted on the camera, as it risk damaging the camera and lens. Is my understanding correct? Thank you. Benedict

I currently have an MP (240) and a 35 summilux. I was at the leica store today and the employee mentioned when I decide to upgrade my camera I should look at the M10 or SL. He then said the SL was probably best because of cost and proceeded to show me a sample of the SL with 35 lux (with adapter) The focusing was great to me but did feel bulky. My question is - If I'm really just going to use it with my M lens does it make sense to go SL route? I know it would be alot cheaper; but not sure on performance difference etc. Apologies if this was asked previously in another post and thank you for any response.

Just got my M10 and have been somewhat disappointed by the colors. In some circumstances, they’re absolutely great. In others (and shooting situations which I frequently shoot - backlit subjects who have lighter skin tones), they fall apart when I do any serious color grading. I’ve attached a link for reference. Notice the majority of influence over the skin tones is determined by the purple slider. In my experience on professional Canon systems (as well as Fuji), skin tones are generally captured in the Oranges, Reds, and Yellows. On occasion, I’ve noticed them “bleeding” into the Purples/Magentas, but generally it’s an easy correction with a hue adjustment toward red in Lightroom. This has happened more on my Fuji gear than my Canon, which I thought was just a product of the XTRANS. Images for reference. Note: I’ve increased each slider to 100 to illustrate the influence of the respective slider, not as an artistic decision. https://imgur.com/gallery/mFTvTGz I’ve had to do more “additive” color editing (color grading with added oranges/yellows in the mid tones) to get even close to the effect I desire to be consistent with my professional body of work, but it’s tedious and feels more like a workaround as opposed to simply a different process. Is this a hallmark of these sensors? Has anyone else had an issue with skin tones merging into the purples? The issue here is that it doesn’t give me precise and consistent control over tonalities which are consistent with my other work. Not only that, but as opposed to adjusting a couple of sliders to produce the look, I’m adjusting literally three times more to try and get close and, eventually compromise, on the desired look. Also, here is an attached photo with the exposure info as well as histogram illustrating that I’m shooting at base ISO, and exposed with the limitations of the M10 sensor in mind. https://imgur.com/gallery/v2EPnGf I want to add that I’ve been shooting for over a decade. This certainly isn’t my first rodeo. The only thing left for me to try is making my own custom color profile, but in over a decade of shooting, this has never been a requisite to get the colors I want out of my photos. Does the M10-R improve on any of these shortcomings? Also, I want to preempt against any comments telling me I’m just confused or apologetics from Leica koolaid mixers. I’ve read some responses on this forum before from some of them and they seem to be obstinately opposed to the notion that perhaps the sensors in these cameras aren’t as good. While DXOMark gives the M10 a higher overall score than my 6D, in my experience, the colors are more pliable. Finally, my artistic discretion is going to differ from yours. I have seen a lot of photos posted here in discussion which are also effectively SOOC, with minimal correction. I have a stylized look I go for, which requires flexible colors.

Hallo, bei meiner neuen, gebraucht erworbenen M10 werden die Fotos auf dem Kopf stehend (d.h. um 180° gedreht) auf die App und in Lightroom exportiert. Von der Kamera werden sie zuvor richtig angezeigt. Kennt jemand das Phänomen? Kann es evtl an dem alten Objektiv liegen (Summiron f 35mm, 1:3,5)? Bin dankbar für Eure Hilfe

Hi i’ve just got my first digital Leica, an M10R. coming from a canon background im used to connecting my camera directly to my mac and having the eos utility automatically download and organize my photos into different folders sorted by date, Obviously thats not the case with the Leica and i have to connect the sd card to my mac in which all the photos are stores in one folder that i have to manually create date stamped folders for on my hard drive. is there any way (in camera or through an app) that i can do something similar to the canon eos utility with the leica sd card and automatically import all the photos on it into date stamped folders?

Dear all, I bought the "reporter edition" of M10-P about 5 months ago. And it constantly has freezing issue. For the past few weeks, it's just been way too often, like 1 out 2 days it would freeze. I always turn the EV on when I'm shooting, and before it's about to freeze, the EV looks like it's having dropped frames, pretty lagging and then it would freeze, so I have to take the battery out and restart the camera. And many times it just freezes after I turn the camera on, I don't even get to press the shutter. Yesterday, I went out shooting and it froze again, but this time, after I restarted the camera like I always did, I found that the screen got a dark horizontal line on the very top of it (please view the photo I uploaded). I checked the photos, it's usually without the line on them, unless the ISO is 4000 or higher, then I got part of the line (or banding?) on the left side. Is this normal? Should I send the camera in for a replacement of the CMOS or something?

Has anyone else had any problems connecting the GPS to the M10 Monochrom? Most of the time, I see in the rear screen that the GPS icon has an "x" through it...obviously not connected. I have the Visoflex connected to the camera and the GPS turned on in the menu. I realize there are areas that pose a problem for GPS connections, but I have tried various types of environments. Am I missing something? I've only had it connect sporadically over the past few weeks. Thanks.

Janina Mock, Produkttrainerin der Leica Camera AG, erläutert hier anschaulich die Leica Perspective Control: https://de.leica-camera.com/Fotografie/Leica-M/Leica-M10-R/Technische-Einblicke

I started with Leica m9 and fell in love with the manual focus, small and discrete of a Leica range finder. However, I have a poor eye sight and always wear glasses. Tried diopter but not really a solution. Then I got the m10 along with the evf. Although the evf doesn’t give the same rangefinder experience, I find it easier to focus with evf and magnifying than ovf, especially when shooting at low light or complex subject. In terms of lenses, I have the following: 35mm sim micron 7 elements noctilux 50 1.0 v3 summilux 50 1.4 asph summicron 90 2 apo asph With my poor eyesight, the only lens I’m comfortable with while using the ovf is the 50 1.4asph. I cannot fully see the 35mm frame line, and the 90mm is like a sniper scope. Recently a friend asked me if I want to switch my m10 with his sl2s in addition with some cash. I’m not considering any sl lenses in the near future, so probably just using a adapter along with my m lenses. however, I’m not really sure if the better electronic system and better evf will justify the additional weight and bulky body of a sl? any kind of input is appreciated! thanks

Hi guys, so I had my "reporter edition" of M10-P sent in, which had freezing issue, and Leica replaced the old CMOS with a whole new one. So far, no freezing, however, I run into 2 new "issues" if they really are. 1st one: Sometimes when I press the "Play" button to view the photos, a brief "loading" appears on the screen for like less than 1 second. I didn't do that right after pressing the shutter, even when I was in the menu screen, and that happened, but not very often. 2nd one: Sometimes when I press buttons (like Play or Menu), and there is no response, so I had to press them again, and this is not very often either. I don't remember that I ever had those 2 issues before I sent my M10-P in. I wonder if it has something to do with the very low battery? Have you guys encountered same things on your M10 or M10-P? Are they really issues?