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  1. Hello, I’m close to buying a new Leica. Trying hard to make the right decision. All options remain on the table, but I’m leaning towards a SL2-S or SL3. I made the decision to go Leica about a year ago. At the time, I was excited. I thought it’d be easy. Little did I know. The good thing is: it’s been a year. I’ve used that time wisely, I hope, to consider a lot (reading posts, watching videos, and trying out different cameras). I’m almost there. But before I pull the trigger again (more about that in a moment), I’d love to get some input, so if you have any thoughts to share … I’m all ears! A little about me: I’ve got a good amount of life experience and been a photographer for many years. Over the past decades I’ve shot Nikon film cameras & different mirrorless cameras including Fuji, Sony and Ricoh. I enjoy shooting landscapes, city buildings and some street in the endless pursuit of creating photographic art. I have a passion for B&W. So much so that after nearly a year, I made the decision to purchase a “like new” Q2 Monochrom. Unfortunately, it had debris in the viewfinder that I found distracting so I returned it. The experience was a good one because it caused me think even deeper about my commitment level and what I really want. They say the Leica Q’s are the “gateway drug” in the Leica world and I now see why. Yeah, even after a very short time with one. I’m someone that would be very happy with a Monochrom only camera. I shoot 90% B&W (at least), and the ability shoot at night with very high ISO’s with a camera that doesn’t have a bayer filter, and noise that looks more filmic is a very attractive proposition. If I missed color, I could always carry my trust Ricoh GRIII I Ruled Out a Leica Q I’ve ruled out another Q camera for several reasons, with the biggest being that I’ve got some wonderful vintage lenses and want to use them on a Leica (rather than continue using them on my Sony I think). Maybe a M11 or M10 Monochrom? I thought an M11 monochrome … or maybe an M10? … was the answer but I’m not sure a rangefinder’s for me. I mean I LOVE the look. Truly. It’s … beautiful. But I love shooting fast lenses. The rangefinder focusing … nice … but when it comes to focusing some lenses like a f/0.95 or even f/1.2 on a rangefinder … I want an EVF for critical focus. Sure, there’s a great external EVF for the M11 … and I’d be fine with buying that if I needed to, but in my opinion, it kinda messes with the whole rangefinder aesthetic to have to put that on the hot shoe. Also, I’ve heard more than one person talk about their rangefinder’s going out of alignment - and needing to be sent back in for recalibration. I’ve also read about freezing issues some have said they’d experienced with their Leica M11’s on this forum. On top of that, I like to focus CLOSE sometimes (not macro but down to 3/4 or 1/2 a meter) with my vintage lenses … I’ve can do that with an adapter on my Sony A7RIVa with vintage m mount lenses that normally wouldn’t be able to focus that close but would not be able to do that when using them on a Leica M. That frankly is a big deal (for me). Leica SL-2S or SL3? So that’s led me to consider a Leica SL-2s or maybe a SL3? Pros: Ability to convert M lenses and focus close using M to CL adapters. Check Built-in beautiful EVF. Check. More affordable than a Leica M11 Monochrom - check No calibration needed. Cons: No monochrome sensor in sight. Sigh. It’s so … BIG!! The M11 looks so much more inviting. Big Red Dot & Big Leica in big white letters … sheesh! I so prefer the look of the monochrom cameras. Discreet. So tape it up and cover up the dot I guess is the solution there. Perhaps not the best for street? More suited for studio than street? In conclusion: At the end of the day - is a Leica SL2s and/or SL3 worth spending thousands of dollars more - or should I just stick with my 60 megapixel Sony A7R-IVa and call it a day? Has anyone upgraded from the SL2-s to the SL3 .. .and if so, was it worth it? And why? Has anyone owned both a Leica M10/M11 along with a Leica SL series camera and if so, which do you prefer and why? Anyone move from a Leica Monochrome camera to the SL line ? Any regrets? Thoughts and/or Recommendation would be much appreciated. Thanks!
  2. Leica M10 design is already quite minimalistic, though sometimes it'd be nice to not paying attention to the presence of extra buttons and LCD screen. It's great that M10-D version exists for that purpose. How about introducing similar optional experience to the M10 cameras with screens. This DIY 3D print project is still in progress, and here's the related article with more details and future updates. 3D models linked there are free for download and personal use.
  3. Hi, I was wondering if there is a M10 blackpaint. I can only find M10Rs with blackpaint. Does anybody know about a M10 bp? cheers Peter
  4. Hallo, heute ist es genau ein Jahr her, dass ich mir eine gebrauchte Leica M10 gekauft habe. Das nehme ich nun zum Anlass, ein paar Zeilen darüber zu schreiben, warum ich mir die Kamera gekauft habe und ich auch ein Jahr später noch glücklich damit bin. Mit Leica Messsucherkameras fotografiere ich schon seit Jahrzehnten und seit Anfang der Neunziger praktisch ausschließlich. Im November 2006 habe ich mir eine M8 gekauft und diese gut 16 Jahre als meine Hauptkamera genutzt. Für mich eine tolle Kamera, aber die Zeit geht gerade an digitalen Kameras nicht ganz spurlos vorbei. Und her spielte ich schon eine Weile mit dem Gedanken mir eine neue Kamera zu gönnen. Aber musste es wirklich wieder eine sündhaft teuere Leica werden? Was mache ich überhaupt mit meiner Kamera? Sie ist meine ständige Reisebegleiterin auf meinen zahlreichen Dienstreisen, meine „Gehhilfe“ für meist abendliche Fotospaziergänge in fremden Gegenden und die Kamera mit der ich private Erinnerungen festhalte (Reisebilder: https://www.instagram.com/tim_travels_light/ ). Und ich bin ein „Ein-Kamera-Mensch“. Ich will nur eine Kamera haben und die muss ich überall mit hin nehmen können. Sie kommt einfach in den Rucksack oder den Messenger Bag und los geht’s … eine Rolle, wie gemacht für eine M. Aber ich fotografiere häufig bei schlechtem, oder gar sehr schlechtem Licht … mit der M2/ M4-P und M6 fühlte ich mich mit Kodak T-Max 3200 und CN400 immer gut gerüstet… aber Korn ist eben doch etwas anderes als digitales Rauschen und mangelnder Dynamikunmang … Hin und wieder mache ich auch mal ein paar kleine Auftragsarbeiten für meine Frau. Das sind dann Fotos für Websites und Flyer. Meine Reise von der M8 zur M10: Zunächst habe ich mit einen Leica M Adapter für die Sony Alpha 7 unseres mittleren Sohnes besorgt und meine Leica M Optiken an der Kamera ausprobiert. Das funktioniert zwar, ist aber nicht das was ich wollte. Ich habe keine wesentlichen Unterschiede bei der Bildqualität zwischen der Sony-Linse und den Leica Optiken festgestellt, aber das Handling ist einfach grottig. Und auch der elektronische Sucher mit den vielen Zusatzinformationen ist einfach nichts für mich. Es passt einfach nicht zu meiner Art zu fotografieren, oder zu mir. Es macht mir einfach nicht so viel Spaß mit der Sony Alpha zu fotografieren. Aber die Bildergebnisse sind toll; von der technischen Bildqualität meines Erachtens nach locker auf dem Niveau der Leica M10. In der Tat hängt bei uns im Treppenhaus ein 80x120cm Print, der mit der Sony und dem billig anmutenden Zoomobjektiv aus dem Set aufgenommen wurde. Also nach ein, zwei Wochen „Sony-Begeisterung“ zurück zur M8. Der Spaß an der Fotografie war sofort wieder da, aber die Enttäuschung über die mangelnde Bildqualität war nun noch größer. Aber egal, einfach die Kamera die nun mal da ist einpacken und ab in die Alpen auf eine kleine Hütte im Montafon zum Skilaufen. Das war dann quasi das Todesurteil für die M8. Tagsüber bei gutem Licht toll, aber abends in der Hütte grauenhaft - verrauschte, verwackelte und flache Aufnahmen; kein Vergleich zu den iPhone Aufnahmen der Anderen. Ich habe ein paar schöne Landschaftsaufnahmen von meinen Skitouren mitgebracht u d die Erkenntnis, dass ich entweder in der Kombination M8 & Smartphone fotografieren muss, oder doch mal bei eBay nach einer neueren M schauen sollte. Also dann doch wieder die M6 und einer der Kodaks, die noch im Schrank lagern. Klasse, macht Spaß, aber der Filmscanner und der Vergrößerer sind schon lange eingemottet und zurück will ich im Moment nicht. Ja und dann stand sie da in der Vitrine eines Fotohändlers direkt gegenüber der Arztpraxis aus der ich gerade kam. Also schnell mal rein und kurz so eine moderne M in die Hand nehmen … da war dann sofort klar, die oder keine … aber nur, wenn ich dafür weniger bezahlen muss als damals für meine M10. Ok, das hat dann erst beim dritten Besuch des Fotoladens und mit dem Verhandlungsgeschick meiner Frau geklappt, aber seit einem Jahr habe ich eine nagelneu aussehende M10. Ich musste die 2017er Firmware erstmal updated, die Kamera bei Leica registrieren und auch die Ladekabel auspacken, die noch mit den kleinen Bindern eingerollt waren und dann ging’s los. Wobei mich schon interessieren würde welche Geschichte die Kamera eigentlich hat. Ich habe mir dann als Zubehör jochen einen COOPH Rope Camera Strap, eine Displayschutzfolie und den Okulargewindeadapter für die Korrekturlinse gegönnt, den Rest hatte ich ja schon. Zur Finanzierung der M10 habe ich die M8, die M4-P mit Moto und Leica Meter und ein altes Objektiv verkauft.
  5. I'm still new to the Leica ecosystem and have acquired an M10 (used) with an Elmarit 28 ASPH (brand new). I've had this setup for a month and due to budget constraints, would like to stick with just one lens for a while. I was shooting as wide as 24mm (eqv.) on the Fujifilm X-T4 before this, so 28mm feels like home to me. Its a great focal length that I feel lends itself very well towards guiding the viewer. However, I'm having quite some trouble (I don't wear glasses) seeing the 28mm framelines on the M10. Sure, I can peek and find the lines on either side, but by the time I've composed properly on one side, I've lost sight of the other; and I see the effect on the final picture. It also makes shooting quickly (so far), very hard, I have to spend some time composing the shot and ensuring both sides are to my liking. I've missed shots in the process. I've used the frameline selector to see what the 35mm framelines would look like and they are much better. I've shot with the 35mm before, and even tried a used 35mm summicron (ASPH) earlier. However, I found it to be pretty dull (low contrast, flat, but it was a used copy, so I'm not sure if that's normal). And I think by moving a little, I can make the 35mm look more like 28mm (in most cases). The extra stop of light will also be welcome since I do hit the Elmarit's limitations during the winter months, indoors. I'm in a fix and would like some advice from people who're more experienced with rangefinders than I. Am I overreacting at this stage of my journey, or should I switch? I still have 4 days to return the Elmarit (which is in pristine state), but I cannot seem to make up my mind.
  6. Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone had any experience with the 18mm Zeiss ZM Distagon on the Leica M10 specifically. Which lens profiles did you use and to what degree did it mitigate (or completely remove) colour shift? Unprocessed SOOC images would be most welcome! Thanks!
  7. I recently bought an M10 off MPB and I must say I absolutely love the camera. The rangefinder experience is what I’d been looking for all along and the colours and images coming off the camera have blown me away. I love that the images have a slight magenta tinge and the blues are poppy and saturated. At the same time the images seem to be warm and punchy. This camera is by far the best I’ve owned. The one thing that surprised me is a “repair card” in the box I received stating the camera had been repaired in 2020. This was not mentioned on MPB. I’ve gotten in touch with them and they’ve said they’ll refund me with a free return since they were also unaware. But I’m willing to overlook this. Now the dilemma is that there’s also an M10-R for sale from a local. The usual caveats apply: MPB gives me a warranty of 6 months while an individual seller will not. But it’s a newer camera with a larger sensor. I’ve been hit by FOMO. I don’t want to miss out on a newer camera and at the same time something tells me I should stick with a camera I already like. I’ve also heard that the images coming from an M10-R aren’t as punchy and need more work in post. Post processing is something I’d like to avoid, for me that defeats the purpose. I like SOOC images from the M10. Now the question I have here is this: how different is the sensor on the M10-R? Are the colours really that different? Is the 40MP sensor less forgiving? I plan to use either camera with the 28mm Elmarit and the Voigtlander 35/1.4. I’m not too interested in the bump in resolution, but the quieter shutter and touchscreen seem pretty useful. Does the M10-R suffer from freezing/crashing issues even after firmware updates? I’ve not found much research on this topic. Test images (SOOC).
  8. Liebes Forum, ich möchte mir Anfang nächsten Jahres eine digitale M anschaffen und stehe vor der Frage ob es eine M10 werden soll oder ob eine M240 nicht doch ausreicht. zu meiner Situation: Ich habe vor ca. 15 Jahren mit Nikon angefangen zu fotografieren und bin irgendwann auf Sony umgestiegen und habe diese Ausrüstung auch noch nach wie vor als meinen daily Driver (nur Hobby, Job hat nichts mit Fotos zu tun). Vor ein paar Jahren habe ich eine sehr umfangreiche Leica R-4 Ausrüstung und eine Leica M4-2 mit Objektiven (Summicron 35mm, 50mm und Tele-Elmarit 90mm) geerbt. Ich habe mich dann auch relativ intensiv mit den Systemen beschäftigt und so mit der analogen Fotografie angefangen. Nach ca. zwei Jahren ist das leider aber wieder eingeschlafen. Wenn, dann hol ich noch ausschließlich die M raus. Ehrlich gesagt hab ich sie vor allem dabei um sie dabei zu haben. Es macht einfach Spaß die M in der Hand zu halten, das entschleunigte Fotografieren durch die Messfeld-Fokussierung und überhaupt so eine hochwertige mechanische Technik zu bedienen. Was (mir) aber nicht wirklich viel Spaß macht, ist das Belichtungsmessen über den Leica Meter. Das entschleunigt mir dann doch etwas zu sehr. Auch merke ich immer wieder, dass ich die Bilder gerne gleich sehen möchte und mir die analoge Fotografie dann doch nicht so sehr liegt, wie ich mir das vielleicht wünschen würde. Lange Rede, kurzer Sinn: Ich überlege, die komplette R-Ausrüstung (R4, 4 Objektive und ein Haufen Zubehör) zu verkaufen und das als „Startkapital“ für eine digitale M zu nehmen. Leider ist der Marktwert einer R-Ausrüstung ja nicht mit dem einer M vergleichbar. Daher kommt eine M11 schon mal nicht in Frage (ist auch nicht notwendig, das wäre dann doch mit Spatzen auf Kanonen werfen, oder so). Die Frage, die sich mir stellt ist, ob es eine M10 sein sollte, oder ob eine M240 nicht auch ausreicht. Der Preisunterschied von ca. 1.500€ ist schon heftig. Was mich aber verunsichert ist, dass es sich bei der M240 einfach um 12 Jahre alte Technik handelt. Ich möchte eigentlich nicht - gefühlsmäßig - in meine Nikon-Anfänge zurück fallen. Natürlich ist die M10 auch nicht gerade taufrisch, aber zumindest „nur“ ca. halb so alt. Aber auch echt teuer, für eine nicht aktuelle Kamera. Die Gläser aus den 70er- und 80er-Jahren sollten ja hoffentlich auch noch genug Abbildungsleistung für beide Sensoren bringen. Ich würde mich echt freuen, wenn ihr mir hier weiterhelfen könntet, was in meiner Situation Sinn macht und was nicht! Liebe Grüße und einen schönen zweiten Advent!
  9. [ I did not find a pertinent thread via forum search; if this is a duplicate question, please be so kind to provide a link, otherwise feel free to answer ] What adapters can be reliably used on the M10 for e.g. a classic LTM Elmar 50 mm in your experience? In older threads (pre M10), the three most widely recommended were - Original Leitz (50mm seems to be a bit scarce on the market) - Voigtländer - CameraQuest/ Rayqual (seem unavailable in Europe) The M10 has been reported to be more finicky with regard to 6 bit coding. Is it also more of a diva with regard to adapters? I have read the caveats about collapsing; now I am looking out for an adapter... Thanks, Mathias
  10. Did Leica do à la carte programme for lenses as well? I have seen several M10 cameras with matchy matchy lenses (lettering color etc.), I guess Wetzlar did many things if persuaded (although they do not want to sell me silver parts from Safari for my black parts Reporter)...
  11. Leica Camera behauptet, bei der neuen Leica M10 sei ISO 100/21° keine Pull-Stufe, sondern uneingeschränkt nutzbar. Ich war die ganze Zeit schon skeptisch und habe es heute, als die Sonne endlich einmal herauskam, bei einer Hochkontrast-Situation (regennasse Straße im Gegenlicht) ausprobiert. Ergebnis: Von wegen! ISO 100/21° ist bei der M10 definitiv eine Pull-Stufe. Man gewinnt ein wenig Schattenzeichnung, verliert aber eine Menge Lichterzeichnung – wie bei digitalen Pull-Stufen üblich. Der Verlust in den Lichtern ist größer als der Gewinn in den Schatten. Für maximalen Belichtungsumfang wähle man also, wie auch schon bei der M (Typ 240), besser ISO 200/24°. Allerdings scheint mir der Verlust insgesamt nicht ganz so groß zu sein wie bei der Pull-Stufe der M (Typ 240) – was wohl der Grund dafür sein mag, daß Leica Camera die ISO-100/21°-Einstellung der M10 etwas mutig als "vollwertig" propagiert. Ich denke, bei niedrigen und mittleren Motivkontrasten wird man wohl tatsächlich keine praktisch relevanten Einschränkungen bemerken. Doch bei hohen Kontrasten sollte man von ISO 100/21° lieber die Finger lassen.
  12. Hello Everyone this is my first post here. Let me quickly introduce myself. i‘m reto, living in Switzerland and do photography as a hobby for about 6years now. Started with fuji and then switched to sony (a7riii). Love the camera but after 1 year I noticed that i only shoot M mount lenses eith the adapter.. the camera itself produces nice pictures but doesnt make any fun to use (at least for me). I have a Voigtlander Besa R2M which i love.. but doesnt use that often since film is so expensive.. my current gear: Sony A7rIII voigtlander 35mm 1.7 Ultron Zeiss Sonnar 50mm 1.5 My concern now is: I would love to own a Leica since more than 3 years.. but couldn’t afford any until today. Now I have the wallet to afford my first M. I mostly photograph during travels (Bikepacking, Backpacking), lifestyle portraits and Landscape (hiking, climbing) and I do love astrophotography (milkyway) I dont want to carry more than 2-3 lenses. 21mm for landscape (have to buy a 21 first) 35mm for everday use and 50mm for portrait. I want to buy my first leica M now. what would you go for? I can get… M11 used for 7200€ M10R for 5750€ M10 for 4000€ I factor thos things as most important to me: - battery life (i‘m spoiled with my sony!) i dont want to carry 2-3 spare batteries plus a charger.. - image quality (DR, and iso performance, shutterspeed, since i like to shoot at 1.5f in bright daylight) i dont need 60mp.. would ratter use 38mp or max 40mp on the m10r. - reliability. The camera will be a tool for me.. i will use it during bikepacking, climbing, etc. M11. go all in on the m11 (but i read that there are some issuses with freezing and so on). If i get the m11 i cannot buy another lens for a while. M10R. I save a few bucks if i get the m10R instead of the M11.. can safe that money for another lens.. but maybe have the feelings I‘m missing out because I dont get the newst camera. M10. Is by far the cheapest at 4k. I can easily buy a lens and camera at the same time. What would you go for? i dont really know in which direction I should go. Is the M11 really that much better or is it just my GAS. Would the M10R be a good compromise? many thanks for your advice & have a great one! reto
  13. Vain question / nitpick: I notice on certain Leica cameras the "logo screw" (in place of the red dot) is not at 45º, 180º, or 90º and that would annoy me. Is it possible to rotate the screw without loosening or tightening it, or is the final position pretty much set?
  14. Using the Leica SF24D and an M10, when I half-press the shutter release the live view on the LCD almost completely blacks out. This only happens when the flash is ON. It doesn't matter if the flash is in M, A, or TTL mode, It doesn't matter if the flash mode in the camera is set to beginning of or end of exposure (first curtain or second curtain). This completely defeats the use of LV with a flash. Is this a known issue and/or am I missing something? Thanks.
  15. A few years ago, I bought an original battery for the Leica M10. It lay in the closet for several years, and finally, I decided to use it. However, my disappointment is considerable. The battery won't charge. After inserting it into the charger, the green diode flashes slowly first. Then this LED flashes faster. Again after a while, the green and orange LEDs flash quickly, and it has been going on for hours. Should I assume that a reasonably expensive battery has broken from disuse? Maybe someone knows some method to revive such a battery?
  16. Dear M10 Friends and Users: I am wondering if any one has tried to use the Lightpix Flash Q20 with the digital Leica M. If you are not aware, Lightpix Flash Q20 is a cheap and wireless method of using flash with cameras. Here's a video on Youtube. From the FlickR page, I found this photo but not sure if they actually used the flash with the camera! Look forward to your responses. I am not affiliated with this company in any way.
  17. For every +/- 100 images shot digitally there is also one film exposed on my cameras. Do you have a specific workflow combining analog and digital?
  18. My first post, so correct me if there are any issues. I tried to post under M10 but couldn't find a category for accessories. LeicaRumors.com posted about a modular grip for the M10 line and another for the M11 from IDS (Initial Design Studios). The design looks appealing, especially since on the M10 line it appears to give access to the battery and memory card by substituting the base plate with theirs which has a fold-down door. It also has three choices of grip pads and a modular ARCA rail. The site looks legitimate. However there are no comments on the few YouTube videos and no references to reviews. Has anyone had any experience ordering from them, and if so, how was it and what's your opinion of the grip system? I'm personally looking for one for an M10 Monochrom.
  19. Wie sind denn Eure Erfahrungen mit der Akkulaufzeit? Auch, wie sich die Verwendung des Visoflex auswirkt. Mich würde interessieren, wie sich die M10 im Vergleich zur doch recht schwachbrüstigen M9 schlägt. Auf Urlaubsreisen reicht bei mir eine Akkuladung gerade mal einen Tag, wenn man die Aufnahmen öfters mal hinsichtl. Clipping/Ausschnitt/Schärfe kontrolliert (insgesamt wohl nicht mehr als 120-200 Aufnahmen). Danke.
  20. My initial reaction to the M10M was that I prefer to shoot B&W with the M10. In another thread, I posted a couple of M10 B&W pictures as an example of the tonality, gradation and resolution where I wanted to be in B&W, for which I thought the M10 was perfectly adequate. I wrote also that I prefer the greater flexibility of digital filters from post-processing to glass contrast filters. Indeed, I previously had the M-Monochrom and prefer the M10 in this respect. Some background Having published my book last November, I'm now thinking about another project. I've been posting a series of images in a (tentative) series called Empire of Signs, the title of Roland Barthes' book about Japan. I don't believe in jumping directly into defining a new project: rather i tend to take pictures and see how this leads me to a project; so, Empire of Signs may not lead anywhere. When I was in Tokyo at the end of November, I bought a new, 2019 edition of Moriyama Daido's Light and Shadow, which was published in 1982. The latter first edition came out ten years after his previous book and three years after he stopped photographing altogether. As I recall, he got back to photographing after looking at the first photograph ever made, the one by Niépce, which was an eight hour exposure of the view out of a window: it had a building and showed just light and shadow. Moriyama's book established a narrative between light and shadow. Some of the pictures in Light and Shadow are things at the verge: scruffy plants, for examine, at the edge of a store. Photographing in Thailand, often in the harsh, midday sun, I've been thinking about this type of image, and how it could be worked into the Empire of Signs.Today, I made the picture below. M10 | DR Summicron 50 | ISO 200 | f/11.0 | 1/250 sec Chiang Mai – The Empire of Signs Coming to the point To get the look that I wanted: the dark leaves in the shade and the much lighter tone of the leaves where the sun hits them, as well as getting the poster at the left to be dark enough, I used the color sliders in Lightroom, as well a strong contrast increase. I could have done this with a Monochrom camera, but the adjusting the M10 colors gives me more control. On the other hand, with the M10M, I might be able to show more detail in the leaves, which could also be interesting Perhaps a better example is the image below, shot in dappled sunlight. I've posted a couple of images of these three tourists taking a group selfie of themselves using an iPhone on a tripod stick. Here, I was speaking to them, saying I was taking unposed pictures when I got a thumbs up, a V-sign, and the flashing of my name card. In processing this I could get the skin tones in B&W that I wanted by adjusting the color sliders. As I recall, when I was shooting with the M-Monochrom, I was limited to selective dodging and burning — not as flexible M10 | DR Summicron 50 | ISO 200 | f/4.0 | 1/1000 sec Chiang Mai So what do you think about considering doing all this with the M10M rather than converting from color with the M10? ________________________Frog Leaping photobook
  21. Does anyone make an aftermarket external power grip for the M10 or M10-R? You pull off the baseplate, pop the battery and the contacts are right there. External flash battery makers do this all the time for flashes without external power contacts. For the M10-R there are your basic aftermarket grips, and I would think it would be a pretty easy thing to do a power grip with slots for two batteries. (I'm a former analog / mixed-signal IC designer - fast A/D converter, Ethernet LAN media interface/analog signal synthesizer, battery gas gauge designer with 25 years in Silicon Valley - so I have an informed opinion / expertise in electronic design.) Thanks.
  22. So should I dump my venerable M9? To try and help decide, I tried a quick, rough and dirty (i.e. non-scientific) shootout in a camera store. Using my own lens on each body, and then taking a quick snap as I would normally shoot and in difficult store shop lighting (against the light, mixed light - interior and exterior). The short answer is I'll be standing by the M9. But if you're interested in why, well the details and comparison images, unscientific and personally biased as they are, you can find on my FB page which you can visit by clicking HERE
  23. M10 w/Summilux 50mm/1.4 ASPH. Images look better when clicked on.
  24. Just got my M10 and tried using M10 an adapted Super-Takumar 35mm/2.
  25. I had someone wanting to buy my 1st generation M10. I got it out of the cabinet when I got home from the office this evening, looked it over, thought about taking some pictures of it, then remembered the pictures I have taken with it, and then it hit me - I can't sell this camera. No way! I have an M11 on order, but my M10 stays. Like a faithful old dog, I can't get rid of it.
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