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Found 20 results

  1. Endlich konnten wir mal wieder auf eine größere Tour gehen und uns fernab der Heimat neue Eindrücke verschaffen. Wer Lust hat, kann uns gerne auf dieser Bilderreise hier begleiten. Vielleicht ein paar Anmerkungen zuvor. Ich zeige Euch Bilder, die mir persönlich gut gefallen, die möglicherweise aber nicht jedermanns Geschmack sind. Ich liebe nämlich Märkte mit allen Eigentümlichkeiten. Ich fotografiere auch Sehenswürdigkeiten, die Bilder können also auch Mainstream und touristisches Zeug enthalten. Meistens sollen die Bilder für sich sprechen, wenn mir was Geistreiches einfällt, schreibe ich auch mal was dazu. Ich poste in Reihenfolge der Aufnahmen und nicht sortiert nach Themen, daher mischen sich die Motive, weil wir nur so 2-3 Tage an einem Ort waren und dann weitergezogen sind. Aufgenommen habe ich mit der M10R, dem 28 Cron, 35 Lux und dem APO 50, wobei die meisten Bilder mit dem 35er entstanden sind. Jetzt viel Spaß. Die Reise beginnt in Hanoi! Hauptfortbewegungsmittel sind Motorroller. Wer lebensmüde ist, fährt als Tourist selbst. Wer mutig ist, lässt sich damit fahren 🙂
  2. I processed the image in order give the mood of autumn popping in.
  3. I am a long-term M3 and Rolleiflex shooter, and for black and white am more than happy making prints in the darkroom. Shooting color on film is also fun, but developing and scanning, for me at least, isn’t. And I’ve been wanting to have the experience of shooting digitally with my M lenses for a long time. So last week I took the plunge and bought a used M10R. I got the silver version and am struck by how much it looks and feels like my 1960 M3. The simplicity of the camera makes me happy — I was concerned about being overwhelmed with menus — but I’m sure I have much to learn about getting the most out of the camera, about post-processing, etc. (It renders black and white beautifully too, but I won’t put aside my film cameras). Do any other film shooters have advice or experience to share about their transition? Any thoughts are welcome.
  4. Hello Everyone this is my first post here. Let me quickly introduce myself. i‘m reto, living in Switzerland and do photography as a hobby for about 6years now. Started with fuji and then switched to sony (a7riii). Love the camera but after 1 year I noticed that i only shoot M mount lenses eith the adapter.. the camera itself produces nice pictures but doesnt make any fun to use (at least for me). I have a Voigtlander Besa R2M which i love.. but doesnt use that often since film is so expensive.. my current gear: Sony A7rIII voigtlander 35mm 1.7 Ultron Zeiss Sonnar 50mm 1.5 My concern now is: I would love to own a Leica since more than 3 years.. but couldn’t afford any until today. Now I have the wallet to afford my first M. I mostly photograph during travels (Bikepacking, Backpacking), lifestyle portraits and Landscape (hiking, climbing) and I do love astrophotography (milkyway) I dont want to carry more than 2-3 lenses. 21mm for landscape (have to buy a 21 first) 35mm for everday use and 50mm for portrait. I want to buy my first leica M now. what would you go for? I can get… M11 used for 7200€ M10R for 5750€ M10 for 4000€ I factor thos things as most important to me: - battery life (i‘m spoiled with my sony!) i dont want to carry 2-3 spare batteries plus a charger.. - image quality (DR, and iso performance, shutterspeed, since i like to shoot at 1.5f in bright daylight) i dont need 60mp.. would ratter use 38mp or max 40mp on the m10r. - reliability. The camera will be a tool for me.. i will use it during bikepacking, climbing, etc. M11. go all in on the m11 (but i read that there are some issuses with freezing and so on). If i get the m11 i cannot buy another lens for a while. M10R. I save a few bucks if i get the m10R instead of the M11.. can safe that money for another lens.. but maybe have the feelings I‘m missing out because I dont get the newst camera. M10. Is by far the cheapest at 4k. I can easily buy a lens and camera at the same time. What would you go for? i dont really know in which direction I should go. Is the M11 really that much better or is it just my GAS. Would the M10R be a good compromise? many thanks for your advice & have a great one! reto
  5. I like walking around the corner and surprised how beautiful these muddy places can be especially after rainy weather when colours are so much more deeper and attractive
  6. Two shots taken same day within a couple of minutes apart. One shot was taken with the SL2 single shot with SL16-35 and another with M10R with WATE. Both shots taken at ISO100 / M mode / F9 / 1/20 sec on tripod. Can you tell which shot is taken with SL2 + SL16-35mm lens? untitled-1001471 by sillbeers15 untitled-1020091 by sillbeers15
  7. I am thinking about selling off my M-P 240 Safari set (M-P 240 with chrome 35mm Summicron ASPH and accessories) to fund an upgrade to an M10R. This would mean that I'd be short a chrome 35mm ASPH lens, which I think I would not really miss. The only time I am currently using the 35 Summicron is when I shoot with the M-P 240, which hasn't gotten much use lately. I am shooting almost 100% with my Q2 and M10 Mono these days. Another reason I don't think I'd miss the 35 Summicron is because I have the 28 Summilux on the Q2 and a 28mm Elmarit f/2.8 for the M10 Mono. Between 28mm and 35mm, I gravitate to the 28mm almost always. Selling/trading/upgrading M cameras and lenses must be approached like a chess game IMHO. Give serious thought to your every move and the ramifications it will produce, or you will come to regret it. The advantages if the M10R compared to the M-P 240 would be much higher usable ISO, a shutter that is quieter by roughly 50%, a refined layout and the new 40.89 mp color sensor. My M10 mono also has the redesigned 40.89 mp B&W sensor; my Q2 has the 47.3 mp color sensor. Upgrading to the M10R would mean that my color M camera would be on more equal footing with the Q2 and M10 Mono with regard to the sensors. I think that for making exhibit quality and size fine print, this would be a good thing. Upgrading would be contingent on being able to get a favorable (or at least reasonable) amount of money out of the Safari set; I'm not going to get M10R fever and let myself be skinned alive, letting the Safari set go for a song. IMHO that would be a very poor decision. My question is - assuming I can get a favorable selling price for the 240 Safari set, does this sound like a good idea - even though it involves saying goodbye to the 35mm Summicron (I would not want to break up the Safari set and keep the 35 'cron)? Any insights into how to best proceed will be greatly appreciated.
  8. With the important caveat that this post is largely speculation, let's anticipate the performance characteristics of the M10-R sensor. The Leica S3 sensor is 45x30 mm (1350 sq mm) and the DNG files are 9816 x 6512, for a total pixel count of 63,921,792 pixels, or 47,349 pixels per sq mm The Leica M10 Monochrom sensor is 36 x 24 mm (864 sq mm) and the DNG files are 7864 x 5200 = 40,892,800 pixels, or 47,330 pixels per sq mm. The pixel density of the two sensors is so similar that I assume the discrepancy comes from non-scaling edge usage factors, and/or small 0.01 mm-scale rounding errors in sensor size. So if we assume that the S3 sensor and the M10 Monochrom sensor come from the same process, differing only in size and the presence of the Bayer color filter array in the former, then it's reasonable to assume the M10-R sensor also comes from the same process, and is basically a 36 x 24 mm crop of the S3 sensor (as others have hypothesized in this forum previously). If this reasoning is correct, then you can expect the M10-R sensor to be the same as the M10M sensor, plus a Bayer CFA, and to perform more or less the same as the S3 sensor on a per-square-mm basis. Therefore, I would expect: - DNG files that are 7864 x 5200 = 40,892,800 pixels - Dual gain design - 4.6 µm pixel pitch - Base ISO = 100 - ISO range = 100-50,000 (basically one stop lower than the 160-100,000 ISO range of the M10 Monochrom, as one might predict from the lack of the Bayer CFA in the M10M) - 14 bits per pixel Good ISO 12,500 photos and decent ISO 25,000 photos would be terrific, and a significant improvement over the M10/M10-P, as noted here: https://photorumors.com/2019/01/20/mega-shootout-sony-leica-and-phase-one-comparison/
  9. I obtained a customer-release—not pre-release/beta—M10-R and compared it side-by-side with the M10 Monochrom (hereafter referred to as the M10-M) on a test scene at high ISO values. The firmware version for both was the latest firmware currently available to the public: 10.20.27.20 for the M10-R (upgraded from the initial released 10.20.23.49 firmware that was pre-installed in the new camera), and 2.12.8.0 for the M10-M. Methodology: all shots were taken on a tripod with a 2-second delay to minimize vibration. The same Leica 50 APO lens was used for all tests. The aperture was set to f/5.6 for all tests, at which the resolving power of the 50 APO is about as high as possible among commercially available 35-mm format lenses. The ISO value and shutter speeds were as follows: ISO 6400, 1/60 s ISO 12500, 1/125 s ISO 25000, 1/250 s ISO 50000, 1/500 s ISO 100000 (M10-M only), 1/1000 s To the best of my ability, the M10-R and the M10-M were treated equally. The test shots were taken in one sitting, with the same tripod position 2.2 m from the target, and under the same lighting. The images were focused by rangefinder and confirmed by live view for each camera. The subject distance (2.2 m) was farther from the test scene than my earlier M10-R tests (1.3 m) because I anticipated that the M10-M might have no trouble resolving all the details of the scene from 1.3 m, even at absurdly high ISOs. To keep the test as pure as possible, all the test shots were taken as DNG files, then transferred and opened in Adobe Photoshop 2020 with Camera Raw 12.3 (which has native M10-R support) with no corrections or adjustments to the default image settings, other than clicking “B&W” to convert the M10-R images to monochrome. Therefore, this test does not really answer the question of how the performance between the cameras compares if one were to bring the full power of modern post-processing, noise removal, AI-driven scaling and sharpening, etc. to bear on the images. It also does not exploit the important ability of adjusting the levels of different colors when converting color files to monochrome files—arguably the largest advantage of using the M10-R to generate monochrome photos instead of the M10-M. Instead, the purpose of this test is to compare the acuity and noise level of the two cameras at ISO 6400 to ISO 50000. Overall, both cameras take remarkably good monochrome photos, even at ISO levels such as 12500 that would previously be considered out-of-reach. Here are 100% crops from a small portion of the center region of both cameras (M10-R on the left, M10-M on the right). Click on the image below to view it at 100% to avoid scaling artifacts. I would have no hesitation using ISO 12500 monochrome images from either camera for virtually any application. But of course there are substantial performance differences. Finding #1: The M10-M captures higher acuity levels than the M10-R across the ISO range tested (6400 to 50000). As expected, given the lack of a Bayer color filter array (CFA) and no need to de-mosaic the red-, green-, or blue-filtered pixels, the M10-M offers significantly higher acuity than the M10-R. To my eye, the advantage persists even if you give the M10-R an advantage of one or two stops: compare the sharpness of the fine features of the scene as captured by the M10-M at ISO 25000 vs. the M10-R at ISO 6400, or the M10-R at ISO 25000 to the M10-M at ISO 100000—a remarkable testament to the M10-M’s ability to capture a scene down to the smallest details, even zooming in to 100%. Notice also that at the same ISO level, aperture, and shutter speed (chosen by each camera’s auto-shutter speed setting to be the same at all ISO levels!), the M10-M images are only modestly brighter than the M10-R; I was surprised that the Bayer CFA didn’t dim the M10-R images more strongly. Perhaps the M10-R firmware partially compensates for the loss of light due to the Bayer CFA. Finding #2: The M10-M offers about a 1- to 2-stop advantage in high-ISO noise levels over the M10-R. Compare the M10-M at ISO 50000 to the M10-R at ISO 12500, or the M10-M at ISO 25000 to the M10-R at ISO 6400. The M10-M continues to blow me away with its high-ISO performance. Indeed, Bill Claff’s measurements at https://photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm rank the M10-M’s high ISO performance as fourth among all cameras tested to date, behind the Phase One IQ4, the Phase One IQ3, and the Fuji GFX-100—three current or recent top-of-the-line medium format cameras. Overall, Leica has created in the M10-M and the M10-R two current-generation sister cameras with outstanding overall performance. If acuity or high-ISO performance is more important than color for your particular application, than the M10-M outperforms the M10-R and is among the very best cameras to my knowledge, even joining some medium-format monsters. And if color is needed, either in the final image or to enable creative conversion to black and white images that allows easy sky darkening, face lightening, etc. during post-processing, the M10-R remains an option worthy of its current flagship status among Leica M cameras.
  10. Hello there, I am looking to get some advice coming from a Sony A9, which I got not because I shoot action, but because I was drawn to the "no blackout" EVF. I have used and owned many Leicas in my day, including the MP film camera, the M9, M240, Q, and M10, and am currently "between" Leicas. I am wondering whether anyone can guide me with my next decision: Whether to sell the Sony A9 and the glass I own for it in order to get a Leica SL2 or SL2S, or to get the Leica M10R. I absolutely love the experience of looking through a glass viewfinder at the real world and I like to take a minimalist approach to what gear I carry. I never "spray and pray," even with the A9, at most I focus once, recompose and shoot. I don't always hit focus with the M cameras, and sometimes I get a little stressed by the fact that you cannot see the exact framing of the image, and many of the lenses (such as the Summicron 35mm M I still own) do not focus on close subjects. So I guess what I am saying is that I am struggling with the pros and cons of both systems. The M system is near and dear to me, but I don't always get focus or framing when under a little pressure. The SL2S intrigues me as a good way to replace my Sony A9, sacrificing Sony's autofocus madness, button layout, and pages of frustrating menus, for a more sublime Leica experience, but seems a little heavy. The reason I was thinking of SL2S versus M10R is that the resolution of the M10R would allow me to "fix" the framing if I don't get it perfect, where on the SL2S I would be seeing exactly what I would get before I shoot, so the extra resolution would probably not be needed as much. Of course I would love to own both someday Note: I am not a professional photographer. I like shooting street, landscape and sometimes non-studio portraits. I like Leica because of the simplicity of use, the connection to film days, and because of the dedicated dials for ISO, Shutter Speed, Aperture. If the M10D had a film advance lever that worked, I probably would have pulled the plug on that baby! And if the Sony A9 had dedicated dials (and less of them) and about 10 pages less of options (animal eye auto focus - wow!) I would consider keeping it. Thanks for any advice you may have!
  11. Ouroboros

    Rajasthan

    Rajasthan, April '23. M10-R bp 50mm summicron safari edition
  12. Dear friends, I need your advice for a wide angle lens on my M10 R. I was thinking maybe 18-22mm. 24 mm would be almost borderline. I currently have 35, 50, 75mm. Since I rarely need it, mainly for interiors, it can be cheaply new or used. However, I value the fact that it is as small as possible. It should be "sharp", but it doesn't have to be super sharp, good coloring would be desirable, as would a certain light intensity. I can use the Visoflex, but if I can, I'd rather focus with the rangefinder. I would be very grateful for your information.
  13. Dear friends, I'm looking for a small fill-in flash for the M10 R, which also allows indirect flashing. Occasionally I need a fill-in flash at a distance of approx. 1m to 7m for portraits / full-body shots in backlight or poorly lit interiors. If possible automatic / TTL. It doesn't have to be a Leica flash. It should be as small as possible. On my Sony I have the HVL-F20M, which was perfect. Could this also be used on the M10 R? I ask for your advice! Thank you, greetings Klaus
  14. Hi i’ve just got my first digital Leica, an M10R. coming from a canon background im used to connecting my camera directly to my mac and having the eos utility automatically download and organize my photos into different folders sorted by date, Obviously thats not the case with the Leica and i have to connect the sd card to my mac in which all the photos are stores in one folder that i have to manually create date stamped folders for on my hard drive. is there any way (in camera or through an app) that i can do something similar to the canon eos utility with the leica sd card and automatically import all the photos on it into date stamped folders?
  15. Hello everybody, question about S 007 vs M10R + 50mm APO. So I’ve had many Leica cameras and I’ve come down to loving the 006. I love everything about it but obviously I can’t shoot in low light situations. So I’m thinking about going either for the 007 or the M10R as I already have the 50mm APO. Those of you you’ve had experience with both, which one would you recommend? Important things for me: image character , dynamic range & colors. I know that the 007 doesn’t have a similar color palette to the 006 but I’m considering it as it might be a good option for low light situations. Thank you!
  16. Tried to do Multi-shot exposure on my SL2s with Summicron-M 50mm, Super-Elmar-M21mm, Voigtlander APO-Lanthar 35mm. File size 12000x8000=96MB. Terrible result with all 3 lenses and I thought of doing something wrong. Changed to a super rigid tripod and the results were the same bad. Pictures look at 100% kind of having poor resolution. Even the 1 shot DNG files are in no way the quality of the same lenses on my M10-R. I use the original Leica M Adapter to L. All pictures shorter than 1/1000s. 100% crop. Anybody comes to the same conclusion.
  17. Hi all, I've been shooting a Leica M10-R for about 8 months now and I love it! However, I recently ran into issues apply lens profiles in LR. I just received my first 3rd party lens, the Voigtlander 90mm APO Skopar 2.8. I just realized that there is no lens profile applied and I'm not sure what I should do. The lens detection automatically selected "R-Adapter-M." I see that the other option is to turn it off, which I'd rather not do, as I have a few Leica lenses. The lens profile options in LR does not list this lens. Any suggestions? I'm a little lost and I have a trip coming up where I was hoping to use this lens extensively. Any help is greatly appreciated!
  18. In a position to purchase my first digital M series camera and am wondering which camera, the M11 or the M10R? Any advice and opinions would be much appreciated.
  19. Dear Leica friends, As a former M9 user, I'm back after years with an M 10R. Over the years, the path led through Sony, Fuji (APSC + medium format), Oly and Ricoh. Very often I adapt lenses between 1932 and 1965. Now I got my M 10R, various lenses from CZ, VC, Wetzlar, Canon 50 0.95, Nikkor Kogaku Nippon Japan are available. I feel I am now back home. and my heart is full of good emotions. The latest is the VC 50 1.0 with which I took the photos. I hope you enjoy the fact that I am showing the first test shots here, even if they are not demanding. I reduced the images, but I find the coloring and plasticity to be good and recognizable. In the future I will post my recordings in the subject threads. I hope you don't mind reading my statement. My main shots are street, portrait, street art and occasionally urban and landscape shots. I have a first question: What is your experience with exposure correction? I usually love - 0.3 to - 0.7. Is it also an acceptable way for you to capture RAW and Jpeg? I look forward to a friendly cooperation and your benevolent criticism. As so often, always good light
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