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Found 23 results

  1. Männers, es wird konkret. Nachdem ich gerade 25 Rollen Schwarzweiß -und Farbfilme wegwerfen musste (alt, falsch gelagert), werde ich zeitnah den neuen P30 Rollfilm in die Hasselblad einlegen. Ich weiss, das hier einige mit dem unterwegs sind, habe aber beim Betrachten der Bilder nie darauf geachtet wie belichtet und entwickelt wurde. ISO80 laut Beipackzettel? Welcher Entwickler? (Auf der Ferrrania-Page werden für den P30 die Entwickler D76, Bellini ECO und TMAX DEV "empfohlen") So als Halbitaliener würde mich ja mal der Bellini interessieren, kennt den jemand? Nicht zwingend den ECO, sondern überhaupt Bellini. Seid ihr zufrieden mit euren Ergebnissen oder ist der Norditaliener ein Problemkind? Für alle Lichtsituationen geeignet oder doch besser nur bei diffusem Licht (als Beispiel)? Schon irgendjemand mal langzeitbelichtet? Findet man irgendwo was über Schwarzschildeffekt / Reziprozität (was für ein phonetischer Gau)? Falls man für den P30 nichts weiss oder findet, kann man dann evtl. die Zeiten von einen Referenzfilm "verwenden"? Keine Ahnung, evtl. PAN F. Ich glaube es ist weniger die ISO entscheidend, sondern eher die chemische Mixtur? Fragen über Fragen.
  2. https://www.dpreview.com/articles/6717086661/sony-a9-iii-image-quality-dynamic-range-analysis?utm_source=self-desktop&utm_medium=marquee&utm_campaign=traffic_source
  3. Going to New York on the 4th of July. what are best photo viewing areas with the best backgrounds. Also, best iso, shutterspeeeds, lenses. On the SL is there something that i have to program to simulate a cable release? Thanks for everyone's comment!
  4. Hi, New to the Leica T as of today. Is there a way to limit the ISO? I see the Auto setting but can one limit the maximum ISO? Thanks, Rob
  5. Hi, When using the Q2 on manual, as I do, there is the option to set your desired ISO setting. The factory set range goes 200-400-800-1600 etc. Can this be tweeked to set an ISO that is not in that range, for instance a setting of ISO1000. Thanks
  6. Hi There Several people have asked me about this, and so it seemed to be worth doing it! All the files were originally shot on DNG - the sharpening and noise reduction sliders in Lightroom were all zeroed. The SL2 files were opened in Photoshop and the Image size reduced without any noise reduction help. They were then exported as 100% jpg quality 12 jpg files. I've then done an XY comparison zoomed in to approximately 100% and taken a screen shot. I'll put this on to the Review thread as well, but I thought it was worth putting it up as a separate thread. As you would expect - downsizing the SL2 images does help with the noise - but even so, at higher ISO there is still at least a stop difference. In each case the SL2-S is on the left. To me this is a little like angels dancing on the heads of pins, and it's also open to methodology questions - and anyway, why would you not use noise reduction?) First of all, the Scene: 100 ISO: 400 ISO 1600 ISO 6,400 ISO 12,500 ISO 25,000 ISO 50,000 ISO Finally 100,000 on the SL2-S and 50,000 on the SL2
  7. Hello there! I have a slight but not to severe problem. I've noticed that my Leica M7 is not able to read the DX code of these two specific films: Fujifilm Superia X-Tra 400 and Fujifilm Fujicolor C200. For these two films I get the ISO value of 5000 and 3200 which are obviously wrong. For example, Fujifilm Pro 400H is working perfectly fine, the ISO detection works without problems. Further I tried several other films like Kodak Ektar 100, Kodak Portra 160 and 400, Ilford FP4+ 125 and so on... and the dx detection worked perfectly fine on every single one of these films. I compared the working ones with the "malfunctioning" films and the only difference I noticed is that the black paint in the dx code is a kind of green, it's not a perfect black, more like a darkish green, definitely not a true black. Could this maybe be the reason? The thing is, I've sent my camera to Leitz for a grand- overhaul just 3 weeks back. They changed and renewed a lot of parts including thr DX- reader so the camera is like brand new. Unluckily I've no clue if it had the same problem before it went to Leitz because I've not shot one of these films before. It would be a great help if somebody has an answer or maybe a similar problem! Regards Alex
  8. Hi there, I'm looking into picking up a M9 or M-E (and possibly an M 240, depending on cash flow). Right now I'm trying to determine if higher ISO shots from the M9 will be usable for me, and I haven't found any sample DNG's on the web anywhere at ISO 800+. I've read that shooting at ISO 640 and pushing in post is probably a better method for achieving quality low light images, so if anyone has an underexposed ISO 640 image that I could push that would be helpful as well. Does anyone have a few they could upload/share, or perhaps even point me to some existing samples with working links? Thanks.
  9. Anyone compared the Leica CL set at iso 800, vs at 400, 400 vs at 200, would the image quality difference be obvious? Or not too big? The reason is when using the 55-135, due to it's slow speed, might like to set at 400, or 800 for hand held, but not sure if the image quality is acceptable at that?
  10. Here is an interesting article about the M8, along with some photographs that show the camera's capabilities, if you are willing to work within its limitations of the 160-2500 ISO range: https://www.35mmc.com/26/06/2020/leica-m8-finally-falling-in-love/ At the risk of stating the obvious, with any Digital M camera ISO appears to be a very significant factor with regard to image quality. I tend to work with ISOs of around 10-15% of maximum on my digital Leicas (Q2 and M-P 240) in the interest of image quality. I/Q does not always seem to be a linear proposition, though. With my M-P 240, I have made images at ISO 1600 and even 3200 that still result in exhibit quality prints at 16x24 inches, depending on subject, lighting, shutter speed and probably a whole kettle full of other intangible factors. The M8 was a "gateway drug" for this photographer, as he has decided to upgrade to an M10. He took the affordable bait and now he is hooked! 😄
  11. With the important caveat that this post is largely speculation, let's anticipate the performance characteristics of the M10-R sensor. The Leica S3 sensor is 45x30 mm (1350 sq mm) and the DNG files are 9816 x 6512, for a total pixel count of 63,921,792 pixels, or 47,349 pixels per sq mm The Leica M10 Monochrom sensor is 36 x 24 mm (864 sq mm) and the DNG files are 7864 x 5200 = 40,892,800 pixels, or 47,330 pixels per sq mm. The pixel density of the two sensors is so similar that I assume the discrepancy comes from non-scaling edge usage factors, and/or small 0.01 mm-scale rounding errors in sensor size. So if we assume that the S3 sensor and the M10 Monochrom sensor come from the same process, differing only in size and the presence of the Bayer color filter array in the former, then it's reasonable to assume the M10-R sensor also comes from the same process, and is basically a 36 x 24 mm crop of the S3 sensor (as others have hypothesized in this forum previously). If this reasoning is correct, then you can expect the M10-R sensor to be the same as the M10M sensor, plus a Bayer CFA, and to perform more or less the same as the S3 sensor on a per-square-mm basis. Therefore, I would expect: - DNG files that are 7864 x 5200 = 40,892,800 pixels - Dual gain design - 4.6 µm pixel pitch - Base ISO = 100 - ISO range = 100-50,000 (basically one stop lower than the 160-100,000 ISO range of the M10 Monochrom, as one might predict from the lack of the Bayer CFA in the M10M) - 14 bits per pixel Good ISO 12,500 photos and decent ISO 25,000 photos would be terrific, and a significant improvement over the M10/M10-P, as noted here: https://photorumors.com/2019/01/20/mega-shootout-sony-leica-and-phase-one-comparison/
  12. Just bought C-Lux 2 off eBay. Neat camera in small size that will be easy to have with me all the time. However, I am used to more prosumer models of cameras that have provisions for setting ISO to 100 or 200. I like to use only the lower ISO for best results. After reading the entire C-Lux 2 manual, all I could find was the way to limit ISO range to maximum of 400 ISO. Is there a way to set 100 ISO or 200 ISO, so that is fixed? Or does the camera always choose whatever it wants?
  13. bought vlux4 in may. at infinity, (tele at max) my pictures are not appearing sharp. tried various settingws including intelligent iso, and all three autofocus modes. aff and afc produced soft looking photos, especially of wildlife. any suggestions for how to have best sharp photos?
  14. the m9 was reported to iso-less, as no matter in what iso an image was shot, a repair could be made in photoshop without degradation of the image. is this true for the M as well?
  15. I've started experimenting with Infrared film, unfortunately I am a little confused leading to the first film I developed being overexposed. I am using Rollei infrared 400iso when I looked it up it advised to set the iso at 25. I can't use the light meter due to using a filter on the lens. So did the same with my digital but the lowest iso was 100, so I thought I had to increase the shutter speed but I think I should have decreased it. How do I figure this out? For example if on my digital (again using infrared filter) the iso is 100 and shutter speed is 30secs, then how long would the shutter speed be for the film if set at iso25? I hope this makes sense! Thanks
  16. Hi, the Q2 is my first Leica (sorry 😉 ). Besides the weird Implementation of the much discussed BackButtonFocus I've noticed another strange one, but not sure if it's just me. In all my other cams you simply have a more/less plain, isolated setting: Minimum Shutter-speed. It just takes care the shutter-speed, in whatever (semi-)auto setting you force the camera in, does not go below a defined value, for obvious reasons, most important one: the user does not want it to go below that value, knowing what she/he is doing or anticipating on situations he/she expects. However, with the Q2 you CAN set the min value in the sub-menu AUTO ISO settings (which already is a bit strange) but what happens is that when you set the MIN SHUTTERSPEED, it ONLY works when ISO is set to AUTO. As soon as you decide to kick the ISO setting from AUTO to a specific value(simply because you want to for that shot/series and since I set the thumbweel to that function, its very easy to do so), you loose the min. shutter setting. Is that normal practice at LEICA? The other AUTO-ISO setting: MAX ISO is on the other hand maintained whatever you do (shutter/aperture/exp. correction etc.), so that one works fine i.m.o. Anyway, just curious about opinions and maybe i'm just wrong, for now a bit irritating I cannot set with full confidence a minimum shutter-speed and truly hope it's firmware-fixable. Thanks in advance
  17. Protects the hot shoe and keeps the owner from forgetting what film is loaded. Found on thingiverse, 3D printed with black filament, numbering painted with silver all-surface sharpie.
  18. Hi all, my m9 got this problem in low light especially in high iso situation. Do you think it’s a sd card or motherboard issue? Thx
  19. Hi, I was checking the test pictures on this website https://www.optyczne.pl/17225-news-Leica_M11_-_zdjecia_przykladowe.html, the noise looks pretty ugly already at 1250 ISO and it becomes worse with higher ISO value... What do you think? N.
  20. Hello everyone! I am a film noob (photography noob too), and I am expecting my first ever film Leica M to arrive tomorrow. It's a M6 "classic." I haven't used film since ... the 1990's. My film camera back then was a fixed lens, fixed focus, point and shoot that I paid either $10 or $20 for at Walgreens. I am trying to figure out which type of film works for which type of lighting situation. On my digital M (and any other digital camera that I've used), I just dial in the proper ISO to get the desired shutter speed at a given aperture. For film, it would appear that I can't really do that. Once you put in a roll of film, you are stuck with it until you are finished using the roll. Obviously, for sunny days, I want to shoot with a low ISO film so that I can shoot the lens wide open. But for indoor use, would 400 be sufficient? Or should I move to 800? On the M9, even in low light conditions at night, I can stick the M9 in ISO2500, leave the lens wide open at f1.4, and still get 1/6" exposure. Can such a thing be done with film? I've read people talking about "pulling" and "pushing" film. What does that mean and how is it accomplished? Any help you can provide is deeply appreciated. Thank you very much. -Armanius
  21. Bitte Teilt mir doch eure Erfahrungen mit dieser Menueinstellung mit. 1.Habt Ihr sie eingeschaltet? 2.Oder entrauscht Ihr erst bei Bedarf und wenn ja mit welcher Software? 3.Und wie macht sie sich bei RAW + JPEG positiv oder negativ bemerkbar? 4.Ist sie sinnvoll bei höheren ISO Einstellungen? Ab 400? Danke
  22. Hello, I'm new to this forum and this is my first posting. I am the second owner of an M8. Had a hot pixel which caused a vertical band so I sent it back to Leica NJ. The vertical band wasn't that bad but for only $175, they took care of it for me. Just got it back from Leica NJ but, now I have a strange problem. I took it out for a full day of shooting (on a sunny, cold day) and when I returned and I plugged it into my computer, I was floored. Horrible grain on most images. I thought my ISO must have switched to a super high setting on accident. I checked the EXIF on the images and it was for sure on ISO 640. The grain should not be this bad at ISO 640...and it's baaad! Is there anything someone can advise on this problem? I've included sample pics from this day of shooting (both good and bad grain...you can tell which is which). Both were taken within the same day, same setting, same lens (28mm Elmarit f/2.8 w/UV-IR filter), etc... Good image: http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/johnmaloof/L9990230.jpg Bad image: http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/johnmaloof/L9990203.jpg
  23. Hallo zusammen, ich hatte vor eineinhalb Wochen das Vergnügen, im Leica Store mit der Q3 herumzuspielen und mit dem Mitarbeiter ein wenig zu quatschen (um auszuloten, ob sich für mich ein Upgrade von der Q2 lohnt 😉). Er teilte mir unter anderem mit, dass bei geringeren Auflösungseinstellungen (36,5 oder 18,6 MP) jeweils eine gewisse Zahl Pixel des Sensors für die Aufnahme zusammengefasst werden. Daraufhin kam mir die Idee, dass sich dadurch ja eventuell die High-ISO-Performance bei den Auflösungen 36,5 oder 18,6 verbessern könnte (ist vielleicht naiv von mir). Der Mitarbeiter verneinte, sagte aber, dass, wenn man geringere Auflösungen einstellt (36,5 oder 18,6 MP) , "sich der Dynamikumfang um bis zu ca. 1-2 Blenden verbessern" würde. Ist natürlich nur eine vage Aussage (was auch an meiner vagen Erinnerungsleistung liegt, die mir meine Frau regelmäßig vorhält), aber um der Sache auf den Grund zu gehen...hier meine Frage: Hat mal einer der Early-Q3-Users getestet, ob durch die Einstellung 36,5 oder 18,6 MP (statt 60 MP) der Dynamikumfang oder generell die Low-Light-Fähigkeiten der Q3 besser werden? Vielen Dank für Eure Antworten/Einschätzungen. P.S.: Übrigens kann ich bestätigen, was jmschuh hier schon geschrieben hat: Das Klappdisplay, welchem ich ziemlich kritisch gegenüberstand, macht einen wirklich soliden Eindruck, welcher meine Bedenken weitestgehend zerstreut hat.
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