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Hello Everyone I have an M8 and M9. I use the M8 mainly for infrared and as a backup when travelling. I want to buy the M 240 for all sorts of reasons ..... but money is a little tight and I would benefit from trading in either the M8 or M9 ( or both ). I have found the M9 to be very poor as an IR camera, but the M8 is superb. I think I want to end up with the M 240 and the M9 - but I don't want to give up shooting infrared photos. Can anyone please tell me how the M 240 performs as an IR camera. If I could get really good IR from the M 240, I could let the M8 go more easily ...... Many Thanks

Hi My friend has asked me to sell his white M8 for him with lens. I admit to having no knowledge of Leica (would love to be able to afford one!) Have been having lots of questions about serial numbers. My question is would it be safe (or even a good idea) to list his serial numbers? The item is listed on a well known auction site - Is it a ploy or scam to make a copy somehow?? - I may just be being very paranoid, but I don't want my friend to be ripped off. Any advice would be much appreciated.

It was a rainy day in Taipei, but I still took out my M8 and Summicron 35 IV to shoot. Flickr 上 Jimmy. Yang 的 Leica M8 Summicron 35-1188255 Flickr 上 Jimmy. Yang 的 Leica M8 Summicron 35-1188254 Flickr 上 Jimmy. Yang 的 Nespresso pop up Flickr 上 Jimmy. Yang 的 Leica M8 Summicron 35-1188239

OK SO i'm new to Leica and also Leica glass. I've tried a few CV lenses, but always felt that they lacked something that the only other lens i had 28mm Elmarit, seemed to deliver. I've just taken a few frames with this 50mm lens on my M8 and its filled me with a lovely warm feeling. now the lens came with a UVa 13206 filter fitted which is in perfect condition. Question: Do i find an IR filter e43 for this lens or is the feeling that i can resolve colour shifts in LR? again i'm new to Leica, so if the best solution is to replace the UVa or indeed, keep the IVa and resolve colours in PP. your help and advice would be gratefully received. andy

Hello fellow M8 users, I am very happy to announce that I finished the tool mentioned in the thread M8 goes uncompressed DNG! It creates 16bit (acually 14bit in a 16bit container) DNG files from the M8 RAW files with slightly more pixels and much more discrete values compared to the 8bit standard DNG. I even set up a website with download, comment function, contact form and whatnot... even though I am really not familiar with web programming so please be lenient if it is not as polished as this site here for example. The command-line tool is available for Windows, Mac OS X and Linux, so I am now looking forward to getting some input after you tested it on your own files. You can find more information on m8raw2dng.de. I am trying to make the program as good as possible (because I am using it myself on a daily basis). To achieve this I thought it clever to share it with the community even though I had to create a completely new software from scratch in C++ even though I already have a running version in Matlab with more functionality. But I think that'll change as I focus now on the C++ version. I invite you to share this information with other M8 users on other forums, flickr groups, wherever you like. Have fun and good results, Arvid

Von dem alten Summarit 1,5/50mm bin ich, sowohl an der M9 als auch an der M8, immer wieder begeistert ! Leica M8, Blende 2,0 ; ca. 1m Aufnahmeentfernung, leichter Crop. Objektiv als Summilux 1,4/50mm codiert.

My Leica M8 has a loose shutter leaf. I noticed it when all of the sudden a bright white stroke of light appeared on my photos. I made the loose shutter leaf conclusion after removing the lens and looking at the shutter. A loose shutter leaf is clearly visible. I hope I can find a solution through this community. I bought it two months ago as my first Leica. I'm missing it already.

I just bought an M8 camera in good condition with about 4750 shoots. Yesterday however something very strange happens. I had an 8GB 30 MB/sec San Disk card into the camera with various photos from last days. Yesterday I took some photos in 2 different places and I was able to see all photos in the LCD of the camera. When I put the card on my Mac Book Pro and C1 to retrieve the photos , to my surprise some of them was not there !! In fact I could see all photos of the previous days , I could see the last shoots of yesterday , but I lost all photos I took early yesterday !! What I also found is that for mysterious reason some of the last pictures, took the numbers of pictures I previously deleted !!! Not good to loose photos , never happens again all this years with various cameras ... Any explanation ? Has anyone similar experience ?

I'll be the first to admit that I'm a Leica snob; my first camera was a Digilux 2, and I've since upgraded to a Digilux 3 and also own a D-Lux3 for casual shooting. As there will be no Digilux 4, I've been considering upgrading to an M8. I am just a hobbyist, so investing in a new camera, especially one as pricey as an M8 + lenses, is a big commitment. I'm certain that most Leica users feel the same loyalty to the brand, which is why it's difficult to find objective reviews of the M8. Yes, it's a spectacular camera, but if the branding, the case, all of that were stripped away and we just considered the hardware, firmware & optics, what is the justification for spending a few thousand more than a high-end Canon with more MP's & features? Thank you! Ben

Hi folks I'm new here but not new to photography or rangefinder use (I use among other cameras a Mamiya 6 and an old Yashica 35mm rangefinder). But I feel it's time for me to consider bringing Leica into my professional workflow. I have been offered an almost new (under 500 actuations) M8 body for £1200. I'm still not convinced it wouldn't be more of a hindrance than coming into the system at M9/M-E level? I have no M lenses so would be looking to buy something new or newish either 35 or 50mm Leica lens to with, particularly as I do a lot of portrait and documentary work, so the saving on the M8 would afford me a lens. Your experienced thoughts greatly appreciated.

Forgotten toys M8, 35'cron

Bis zum Erwerb meiner Leica M8 habe ich ausschließlich Farbdiapositive aufgenommen. Jetzt, in der überwiegend digitalen Fotowelt, wollte ich diese Aufnahmen nicht vergessen - also digitalisieren, natürlich selbst! Dazu boten sich die digitalen Leicas und das BEOON-Nahgerät mit seinem möglichen Abbildungsbereich von 1:1 bis 1:3 an. Die ersten Versuche machte ich mit der Leica M9, Maßstab 1:1, einem kleinen Leuchtpult und verschiedenen 50mm-Objektiven. Nach den ersten Testaufnahmen schieden wegen mangelnder Randschärfe (Zonenhöhe ab 17mm) das Summicron 2/50 (Vers.IV), das Summarit 1,5/50 und das Elmar 3,5/50 (Red Scale) aus. Lediglich das Focotar 4,5/50 aus dem Focomat brachte bessere Ergebnisse. Die nutzbare Bildqualität des Focotars konnte durch einen Crop gesteigert werden. Also: Abbildungsmaßstab auf 1:1,5 erhöhen und als Kamera die Leica M8 mit dem kleineren Aufnahmeformat verwenden. Die erforderliche Tubusverlängerung des Focotars wurde durch den Zwischenring Nr. 14020 K (15,5mm) und durch den BEOON-Ring "D" (34,5mm) erreicht. Das gerahmte Dia (Hamafix) wurde auf die BEOON-Bildbeldbegrenzung 1:1 gelegt und mit einem Blick durch die Lupe scharfgestellt. Nach dem Abblenden des Focotars auf 11 und dem Wechsel Lupe gegen Leica M8 konnte belichtet werden. Für die nächste Aufnahme eines Dias braucht man nur das Dia zu tauschen. Kamera und Schärfe brauchen nicht verändert zu werden, solange die Diapositive in einem gleichen Rahmen sind. Bei der Belichtung des Dias stand die Kamera auf den Modus "A" und als Belichtungskorrektur verwendete ich, je nach Dichte der Diapositive, einen Wert von -2/3 bis -1 1/3. Eine Kontrolle der Belichtungskurve auf dem Kameradisplay sowie das Arbeiten im DNG-Format ist zu empfehlen. Bei der nachträglichen Bearbeitung der Bilddateien am PC machte mir zunächst der Farbcharakter des Leuchtpults Probleme: das Leuchtpult hatte kein Normlicht. Die Farbtemperatur liegt bei 8.000 K° und dazu ein kräftiger Peak im grünen Spektralbereich. Die DNG-Dateien ließen sich nach einiger Übung gut mit dem Konvertierungsprogramm CaptureOne 7 und dem eingebundenen Farbtool "Farbbalance" ausgleichen. Ich bin mit den Ergebnissen, selbst von unterschiedlichen Diamaterialien, sehr zufrieden. Diese Dateien gestatten ohne Schwierigkeiten eine einwandfreien Ausdruck bis zum Format 30X40. Verfechter des analogen Fealings werden die sanfte Wiedergabe des "Filmkorns" schätzen. Das Digitalisieren der Dias auf diesem Weg kann ich als Zeitvertreib an Winterabenden empfehlen. Bilder: 1) Arbeitsaufbau; 2) Datei eines Velvia 50; 3) Datei eines Provia F

I just made the move to digital Rangefinder from an M4, with the purchase of a used M8 from KEH camera. I also have a Leica X1. I am unsure if this is a common issue or normal for the M8. It seems at all ISO i have a few, what appears to be Hot Pixels pink blue and green colored, the number of "spots" increases with higher ISO. However when in play mode the photo displays these inperfections for a moment then the photo seems to correct and the Pixels or Spots are gone. Also these are not noticable in the photos only at extreame crops Does anyone know what this is, any help or advice will be greatly apriciated, could there be dozens of hot pixels? is this a issue with the sensor? Should i return this camera??

I've recently made the switch from digital back to film photography and I have come to a bit of a crossroads with my Canon 5D Mk II. I have a passion for film and I love the way a rangefinder feels in my hands. The only time I pull my Canon off of my shelf is when I shoot a paid event or a model who requires more photos than rolls of film I will shoot in a day. My main workhorses are a Mamiya C330F and a Mamiya 645 Pro TL. I've been debating on selling my 5D for a Leica M8 so that I still have a digital camera and can use my film Leica lenses. I know that the Leica M8 isn't the full frame 18mp monster that the M9 is but megapixels aren't a huge deal to me as the largest my prints will be (at least for now) are 24x36. I mostly shoot models (lifestyle, beauty, and nude) and street photography. I'd like to have a camera to carry with me everywhere and still use to shoot my models with the convenience of digital and image quality of my 5D with the portability and discretion of a rangefinder for street photos. Any opinion on what I should do? Thanks for your help!

Danke an alle begeisterten M8-User dieses Forums. Ihr habt mich letztendlich überzeugt und zur M8 gebracht. Sie ist heute eingetroffen und wie neu. Lediglich 2900 Auslösungen. Dazu ein Elmarit 2.8/28 dritte Generation. Mitten in der Arbeit blieb nicht viel Zeit zum ausprobieren. Bin nur kurz los, um zu sehen, ob alles funktioniert. Anbei zwei schnell geschossene Fotos mit der M8: Weinberg und Rheinebene. Das Objektiv ist nicht kodiert, IR-Filter kommt erst morgen. Der Hype um die x-pro1, die Erwartungen an eine M10 und was sonst noch von Leica nach dem 10. Mai kommen mag, ließen doch nachdenken, ob eine Entscheidung für die M8 noch die richtige ist. Aber als ich sie heute in den Händen hielt ... Fotografie pur. Schon bei den ersten Schritten war der Zugang zu den Bildern anders. Freue mich schon sehr auf die ersten größeren Touren. Die "Diva" hat zumindest erste Fotos geliefert. Nach manchen Kommentaren kaum zu glauben, stimmt aber optimistisch.

M8 und Summicron-C 40mm, ohne IR-Cut Konvertiert mit CaptureOne Pro

Hi All, Did anyone ever figure out if it is possible to shoot video with an M8, via tethering or something? I remember seeing, years ago, someone tethering a Canon DSLR and capturing video before they added the video function. The camera has such a nice quality I just wondered. Thanks, Steve.

Hello, my newly arrived ltm Nikkor Q 13.5cm has me a little puzzled about something. Query: when attached to my M8 should the lens' D.O.F. Scale be landing at top dead center? Using a known to be good 28/90 ltm to m adapter the d.o.f scale is lining up about halfway over toward the frame preview lever. The tripod block is equally out of alignment with the bottom of the camera. I put my CV 28 back on the adapter and it's d.o.f scale still lands top center like before, put the Nikkor on it and confirmed it still lines up off kilter when bayoneted onto the camera. Help! :-D I'm puzzled. And I can't find a clear pic on google or flickr of a ltm nikkor on a M body which answers my query. Thanks. Richard in Michigan

http://gallery.ancientcityphoto.com/photos/i-Gsxw9K5/0/S/i-Gsxw9K5-S.jpg http://gallery.ancientcityphoto.com/photos/i-HSkdMd5/0/S/i-HSkdMd5-S.jpg http://gallery.ancientcityphoto.com/photos/i-jmTFTKH/0/S/i-jmTFTKH-S.jpg http://gallery.ancientcityphoto.com/photos/i-jDfrdSn/0/M/i-jDfrdSn-M.jpg I shot all of these with the M8 and Voigtlander 75mm F/2.5. I've worked on this project for over a year now. This combination of camera and lens and specific lighting conditions were the only combo that was giving me exactly the rendition I wanted. It's amazing how awesome the M8 is. I love that camera! I have a few on my blog, and will be putting up some more and some behind the scenes kinda stuff shortly. I also have an ebook available that features these images and more. It was designed for digital reading. You can see it here if you are interested. http://soundvisionpassion.com/2012/0...now-available/

Hi folks, I have been thinking about buying another lens for my M8, something a bit wider to give me the 'classic' 35mm field of view. Here's the back story - I used to have a Canon 1DMkII and used a 50mm lens as my 'walkabout' lens, so when I sold it and went to the M8 I went for a 50mm Summilux mainly because that is a focal length that I was used to, especially since both cameras have a 1.3x crop sensor. So the question is - what are my options when it comes to achieving a 35mm equivalent on the M8? By my calculations I should aim for a 27mm to get the closest possible, but seems like I will need to compromise. Oh, one other thing - I would like to buy used and not spend too much. I'll list below the options that I've found, along with approximate used prices. (Mainly AUD, but that's not far from USD at the moment anyway...) Voigtlander 25mm f/4 - $420 (This actually looks like a new price?) Voigtlander 28mm f3.5 - just had a quick search online but not much success finding any of these?? Carl Zeiss 25mm f/2.8 - $1,000 Leica 28mm Elmarit (f/2.8) - $1,000 MS Optical Perar 28mm f/4 - $700 (The very far left-field oddball option... price is for new.) Canon 28mm f2.8 - $500 (Screw mount and would require adapter.) What is the opinion on much older lenses, say a 1970's 38mm Elmarit? Honestly I don't care about some paint wear or scratches on the body. Actually I suppose I shouldn't be too concerned, my Summilux is a 1970's model anyway and I am floored by the image quality (or maybe I'm just not very picky). I am seriously considering this old Elmarit, but my only concern is that it has neither front or rear lens caps, so I hope they're sturdy as it must have been stored like this as well... also 'cleaning marks' on the front glass. But this is by far the cheapest option... maybe a good cheap introduction to using 35mm? I figure I can always sell easily without much loss if I don't like it anyway. From what I have seen & read about the Canon 28/2.8 it seems like a great performer as well...? I don't necessarily expect the same performance as my Summilux, I suppose I am happy to experiment a bit because I have only used a single lens on my M8 so far. Interested to hear some other opinions. Are there any other screw mount lenses that I should consider? Cheers

Leica M8, Summarit 1:1.5/50mm, Blende 8.0, 320 ASA Konvertiert in SW mit CapturOne Pro

Pardon a possibly stupid question, but which Sensor Swab Width have my fellow M8 Users had the most success with? I have a few swabs left from my EOS 1.6x crop sensor cleaning kit and I have to order some new supplies, but am confused whether to get the wider ones listed at the manufacturer's site for 1.3x sensors or stick with the 1.5/1.6x crop swabs. Sincerely Richard Ward

Leica M8, Tele-Elmar 1:4,5/135mm am Balgen mit Visoflex, Blende 4,5

Leica M8, Tele-Elmar 1:4,5/135mm, Balgen und Visoflex, Bld. ca. 5,6

Leica M8, Summarit 1:1,5/50mm, Bld. ca. 4,0