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Showing results for tags 'processing'.
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I very much enjoyed shooting with an M6, 35, 50, and 90 summicrons in the late 1990s. I did my own darkroom work as well, didn't enjoy that so much. I gave that all up, switched to digital, bought and sold an x100 multiple times, but ultimately stopped taking pictures, except with my iPhone, which is not any fun. A big birthday and my retirement is coming up quick, and I want to recreate the fun times I had, and I will have time and some cash to spend. Some things I am certain about: I only want to shoot BW I have no interest in video My goal is to make physical prints, not create digital content I am not the kind of person who will obsess at a pixel level, and I am unlikely to look at a print with a magnifying glass (though I still have my loupe from looking at negatives and contact sheets!) The whole process of taking (making) a photo is important to me. I want to do things manually. I think this is what turned me off with the Fuji. If automation is there, I'll use it, even though it doesn't make me happy (similar to having an automatic vs a stick in a car) Most of my pictures will probably be "found landscapes", but of course there will be a mix My thinking is that an M11 Monochrom and 35 and 90 summicron lenses is going to do the trick. I am somewhat tempted by a regular m11, as it is cheaper, but think keeping it simple with Monochrom is the best. Do you all think this sounds like it will work? Any suggestions? Also, what is the simplest, reasonable route from camera to print? Is it really Lightroom, photoshop, and silver efex? Seems pretty complicated compared to the old days. I'll probably need a dedicated printer - are there any especially for BW? or just the usual Epson and Canon models Thanks for your help, David
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I post process my SL 2 raws in Adobe Lightroom. It is generally fine, although, as seems common with Leica raws, the reds are a bit oversaturated. I tend to use the Landscape profile as it seems to have a slightly less contrasty tone curve than Color and the colours are a bit more vibrant. A typical workflow is to add a bit of vignetting, adjust white balance, push the auto exposure, for a starting point, normalise the black and white points to get the right amount of clipping, add 15 clarity and 5 dehaze, and Robert is your Mother’s brother. The SL2’s white balance is normally v good, but when it isn’t I find that Auto tends to result in an overly warm image, relative to the expected neutral. Similarly, taking the white balance reading from gray clouds seems to result in too much warming of the image, suggesting that the SL2 wants to render them blue, at least under the Landscape profile. (I get better results taking the white point from cloud highlights, where they are available and where it isn’t too close to sunset.) I also realise that the dehaze tends to add a bit of a blue cast. Has anyone a better recipe for getting better (more natural) colours out of the SL2?
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Processed in Lightroom, Landscape or Color profiles, I find that boring grey skies are apt to carry a blue tinge (that becomes stronger as you approach blue hour). It certainly makes the pics look more lively, but it’s not what I remember seeing. If I set the sky to be grey using the temperature setting, the rest of the picture looks too warm. Have others noticed such quirks? Is there a solution (that doesn’t involve repainting the scene)?
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Enjoy the XV, and recently have become interested in in-camera double exposure techniques. So far as I can see from the manual this is not possible on the XV. Have I missed something? Do you create double exposures in processing? What software do you use? I only have Apple Aperture and the free download of Lightroom 3 (the only version my elderly Mac OSX 10.6 can cope with).
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- X Vario
- double exposure
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I'm a bit of a newcomer here and on the Q; I'm interested in the idea that, at least in some cases, it'll be useful to get back the large unused part in the DNG originals (more than 100 pixels each side, although way less in the vertical direction, IIRC). I am not an user of Lightroom, but I tried installing the bundled version, just to discover its default processing of the DNG eliminates these "edges", but maybe an experienced user will tell me how to recover them... In the meanwhile I'm playing with Graphic Converter on OSX, RawTherapee and Darktable : each of them perfecly "see the edges", each one has its lens barrel compensation tricks... Which one do you use, or would you recommend? Below, two pics, the first one being the automated jpeg produced in-camera, the second a crop from the (even larger) DNG image when opened in Graphic Converter (and then barrel-compensated and curves-corrected -a very poor result indeed that you'll pardon me) OK, I couldn't attach both files within this post without significant loss (I'm probably not wise enough); here are two urls: the 'simple jpeg' the larger DNG, processed and cropped in GC TIA! Hervé
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I usually process my own b&W film but was quite busy so I thought I would try and find a decent lab. After looking around on various forums I sent two test rolls to AG, followed a couple of days later by a couple more. When the 1st batch of film came back I was absolutely appalled. Both films were scratched with long horizontal scratches (one worse than the other) and both were covered with dust. I was certain it was not my camera, a Leica M6, which I had bought from Stephens Premier very recently and was in pristine condition (as all the equipment is from them). Also rolls I had shot and processed before and after were absolutely fine (including the ones I sent a couple of days later). I have enough experience to know that the likely cause was unclean rollers in the drums. I sent the negatives to AG with a letter. As I say these were test rolls of my daughter, thankfully I had not sent anything critical. I did not receive the courtesy of a response. Certainly I will not be using AG again. Anyone can make an error and I would understand that but to not respond to a reasonable complaint is wholly unacceptable. I would be grateful for any recommendations for an alternate, reliable lab in the UK. Thank you
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Hi, this is my second roll of B&W film using M6 on Ilford HP5. I don't know how to develop so I send it to a local lab to process and print. One of the prints shows a faint light gray circle located where the blue sky is (approx. center of the picture, right above the roof). It's on the scanned image they make too. I don't see the same spot on any other photos of the roll but there are only a couple others with the sky as background. The rest are mostly buildings and people which may make it difficult to see the spot. This was the only b&w film i took on the trip. I also shot four rolls of color film, with the same lens and camera, and I didn't see anything unusual on the prints. I want to rule out this is something to do with my camera or my 50 summicron. Can someone tell me if this looks like a processing error? Any comments on this are greatly appreciated.
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- black and white
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Hi Folks, As I shoot the majority of my work on my M9s and some on my X1, thought this might be of interest. I'm holding a free online seminar on my workflow using Nik Software plugins with Aperture and Photoshop: Nik Software Webinar | Photo This & That Hope to see you there! Regards, Edmond
- 23 replies
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- aperture
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I've been thinking about it for some time, but I have finally decided to give it a go. I'm talking about popping off a roll of Tri-X and souping it at home. I have never developed a film in my life, so I would like some guidance, please, as to: 1. What equipment do I need? I think I need: - a daylight changing bag (yes I know I can black out a room but I'm assuming that this is easier) - a film can opener - a light-tight tank - a reel to go in the tank - a clip to hang the roll up with - a set of tongs to dry it off 2. What chemicals do I need? - insert as applicable 3. What do I do? I appreciate that this may all seem noddy, but please be gentle with me. I have done some internet searches and can find most of the equipment either as part of a kit or separately, but I cannot find a "starter" kit for chemicals. All the ones I have found so far seem to be big containers and I know that some of them (all?) can oxidise so I would prefer small ones to start with. To be clear, the end result I am aiming for at this stage is developed negs that I can scan myself - I am not going to wet print... yet... Thoughts? Suggestions? Resources etc that you can point me at? Regards, Bill
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Hi all, As some may have seen from my previous post (M6 Newebie)..i am lokoing for advice after my first foray into shooting with film. What is considered the 'normal' or easiest or cheapest method of getting photos into my computer? As much as i love the idea of sending my familly to sleep in front of a slideshow, i really want to send many more poeple to sleep by posting photos onto the internerd. Obviously, i dont want to be posting low quality images...otherwise i would have stuck with a compact digital. Should i jsut send the photos of to be processed (£5 from Fujifilm)...then get a scanner? ir should i get them processed and scanned at med/high res?....or should i get them processed and printed...then scanned in on a flat bed scanner? It makes sense that i would get them processed and scanned to a cd at the factory...but in the long run do most of you lot get them procesed and scan them in yourself? many thanks...opinions appreciated. Regards. Jim
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- 35mm
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