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PLZ

Found 31 results

  1. Time running like sand through your hand
  2. Private Learjet 45 cruising 500 mph at 51,000 ft altitude
  3. Attached a detail of a out of camera jpeg (DNG is identical) showing chromatic aberration. Is this normal and if yes, how do I get rid of?
  4. Hi Folks, I have been disappointed with residual uncorrected color shifts in the corners of shots with my M9P and 28mm Elmarit ASPH and 24mm Elmar ASPH lenses (particularly snow scenes). The built in profiles of my camera don’t seem adequate for my samples of these lenses. Has anyone with the new Leica M worked with these lenses? If so, could you please post samples? Thanks, Steve K
  5. Hello all, I am wondering if anyone here can help me resolve some issues after upgrading to Lion. I am using CS5 on a Macbook and printing on an Epson Sylus Photo R2400. I recently upgraded to OSX 10.7 (from 10.58 if this matters). When I compare a photo that I printed before the upgrade with one printed after the upgrade (using the same paper and profile and the file has not been edited between printings), the one printed in 10.7 has a slight magenta cast (the original print has pastel greenish blues; the one printed from 10.7 is more greyish violet). The original print matches the calibrated monitor better as well. I am using photoshop to manage colors, and, as far as I can tell with the new driver, printer color management is turned off (this seems to happen when the settings are selected in the photoshop print window). I have read that there were potential issues with drivers, but I have cleaned out the Epson folder in my system library, reset the printing system, and reloaded the printer with newly downloaded drivers from Epson. None of this seems to change the output. It may be possible that the new Epson driver yields different color from the same file/profile combination, but this strikes me as unlikely. It may also be that there was some nozzle clogging in the original prints that, once cleared, has resulted in the color shift, but the number of consistent prints and timing of the shift makes this unlikely as well. I am tempted to get a custom profile for the printer to address the match issue, but if there is some software glitch that is causing the shift, am not sure this is the right solution either. Does anyone have any advice as to how to resolve this issue? Thanks
  6. Hi all, I am experimenting with custom colour profiles for T/TL, I am using Capture One as my raw editor, I liked the default profile for people and indoor shots, but I like more saturated look on landscapes and old town. I created the ICC profile for the Leica T, please give it a try and let me know your thoughts. LeicaT-Color Corrected.icm from Dropbox Thank you
  7. Just wondering if anyone could recommend a good colour calibration profile or preset, for LR, for the M9 with the new-type sensor? Colour is indeed more of a matter of taste, but I think a generally-speaking "neutral" or "faithful" colour reproduction might perhaps be a good starting point for work from? Thanks a lot! Best, Rus
  8. I'm starting a thread for anyone who would like to create, and share full color images by shooting three black and white photos of the same subject. The technique is called Trichrome Photography, and it was used to create the first color image in 1861. Here's some early examples http://tricrhomephoto.tumblr.com/ Creating a color image from three black and white photographs is done by using a different color filter in front of the lens for each exposer (Red, Green, and Blue.) When those three black and white color records are combined, a full color image is created. Today, the easy way to combine those three black and white color records, is with Photoshop. The highest quality Trichrome images are produced with a tripod, and a still object. However, interesting color effects can occur if there's movement between exposures. This technique can be done on film or digital cameras. As much as I consider myself a film enthusiast, I think the best black and white color records will come from Leica digital Mono cameras. Of course, Leica digital color cameras can be used, however they have a filter in front of the sensor to create color (possibly reducing detail.) Leica mono cameras do not have this filter, therefore possibly increasing the amount of information being recorded. With film cameras, the process is a bit more involved. There's the choice of what black and white film to use (slowest speed possible is best since three images will be layered on top of each other.) Processing of the film, then scanning of the film. Also, layering the three black and white color records together in a program like Photoshop may not be as precise, depending on the quality of the scans. The following link shows examples of Trichrome Photography today https://www.flickr.com/photos/tags/trichromes The following link shows a Trichrome created with a M6 http://www.pirate-photo.fr/forum/viewtopic.php?t=820 And a Youtube video on how to stack the three color records into one shot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S28OUlavAvg The idea to start this thread came from two books I'm currently reading. "The Dawn of Technicolor 1915-1935," and "Technicolor Movies; The History of Dye Transfer Printing."
  9. Duisburg, Industrial Landscape Park North A location to explore and to let go your imagination Leica Q
  10. I have a question - is there any way to jpg files from Leica M8 (v 2.024) reminded jpg Leica M9? Will exposure to -2/3, color: medium (example?)? Please help. I love the colors jpg with the M9. What can I set in my M8? Has anyone tried, maybe some settings will resemble the saturation of the M9?
  11. A few early spring photos
  12. Dear all, I am the happy owner of a M(240), and more recently a CL and SL. I am coming from over 15 years of film M. I like shooting the rangefinder camera though I find a huge difference between my almost 5 year old M and the most recent (for me: I got the CL last january and the SL in October) cameras in image quality as soon as I shoot over iso 1600. I almost never shoot the M in color over iso 1600 since I don’t like what I can get out of lightroom @iso 2500 or more in color. i also have trouble with color consistency in mixed (daylight + artificial) lighting with the M. on both issues I find the SL is far superior and even the CL. Do you share the same experience ? do you think the M10 is much better in those areas ? thanks for sharing your experience didier
  13. I just wondered: Is the red color in this forum meant to symbolize the color in the Leica logo? The forum color is very nice, but the real Leica red is much more "old fashioned" and pale (100% magenta and yellow in CMYK).
  14. Taken yesterday at one of my favourite 'hunting' spots. Leica M240 + 35mm Summarit f2.5 @ 320 iso.
  15. hi, the color saturation option (black & white option) is only available in the snapshot mode? as soon as i leave this mode i cannot access to this option anymore. am i missing a point? i dont feel free setting up my camera functions as i want
  16. BDX

    2 shop in Naples

    In Naples, there's a lot to see, but I think the most interesting is the hustle and bustle in the streets, markets and shops. And of course, the stores themselves .. Andreas - These are lovely shots but they viloate Forum rules for image size, so I resized them and replaced them. In the future please follow the rules: No side larger than 960 pixels and no file size larger than 300 KB. Stuart Nordheimer [ATTACH]287198[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]287199[/ATTACH]
  17. Hello everybody, this is my frist post. Hope you like! Granmother takes breakfast in hospital. Leica M9 + Carl Zeiss Biogon 35mm f/2
  18. From my work 'A day in Berlin' here Best, Christophe
  19. I recently shot a wedding with my M8 shooting DNG. I noticed after the wedding that the bridesmaid gowns which were solid black in color had come out a like dark brown after loading into lightroom. I have never had this problem before and other things such as tuxedos came out perfectly black. The gowns were made of a silky material and was wondering if this was the reason. I was shooting with a 35mm ASPH lens. Gerry
  20. OK, so I was shipped a 39mm Leitz IR filter (deep red, almost black) by mistake for a Leica UV/IR filter - and decided to keep it. Playing around, the first thing I noticed is that while the M8 replicates B&W infrared film quite nicely, color IR shots are nothing like color Ektachrome Infrared. They are either red all over, or, with a strong bias of the white balance towards the left (yellow, + green tint), a weak approximation of EIR shot without a filter - pastel purples, magentas and reds. Where were all the rich greens and cyans and flaming red foliage I remembered from shooting film EIR? You know, the colors the CIA would analyse to figure out the Soviet crop forecast, and so on. I've now figured out how to get those colors back - and it basically involves replicating how Kodak sensitized the three layers of EIR. What Kodak did was to mismatch the wavelength sensitivities of the layers to their color dyes, so that infrared light created a red image (cyan dye layer), red light created a green image (magenta dye layer), and green light created a blue image (yellow dye layer). Blue light affected all the layers, and created that purple look if no filter was used, so the normal way to shoot EIR was with either a yellow or a normal red filter (not IR-only) to block all blue light. So - what I've done is to shoot TWO exposures of these scenes - one with the Leitz IR-only filter, and one in "normal" RGB. I open the normal color shot in photoshop, and swap some color channels. Green channel gets copy/pasted into the blue channel, red channel gets copy/pasted into the green channel. Then I open the IR exposure, and copy THAT red channel and paste it to the red channel of the "normal" color image. So I've now got Infrared>red, red>green, green>blue. This replicates the look of EIR shot with a yellow filter - firey red grass and trees, cyan skies, and some neutral tones that look almost color-correct. For the look of EIR shot with a red filter (which produced IR and red images but no green exposure) I just take the additional step of filling the blue channel with black (no exposure). This gives the same intense red/yellow/green pallette. It takes a bit of further processing with "selective color" and "HSB" to get the colors precise, but that is pretty easy once the basic palette is in place. I figured this was M8-specific, even if it is a post-processing technique. Unless you do surgery on a DMR or D-Lux 4 to take out the IR filters, it doesn't apply to them. ------ P.S. You'll notice the clouds moved between the IR and normal color exposures, thus the cyan/red/white effect. I also shot this first set of pix hand-held, but it really requires a tripod for the two exposures to match - amazing how a fraction of an inche can change how things align even at 50-60 feet away!
  21. I have recently been experimenting with Lightroom 3 and find it useful for processing photos quickly. I do wonder whether it is possible to use LR to do fine tuning of color, however. In the past I have used Photoshop (and ACR) to process fine art images. As one step in this process (after adjusting overall WB as best as I am able) I use Levels to precisely set the black point in the image to a neutral black and the white point to a neutral white (I do this using color samplers and fine tuning the levels sliders in the color channels). I find that this process yields a richness and subtlety of color in the shadow areas of the image. It is also the case that once this is done, the overall image looks well adjusted to my eyes (without setting some neutral grey in the middle of the range) Having said this, I have two questions: 1) I am not an expert on color and wonder if this process makes sense. For example, while I get the subtlety of color does this also eliminate color "casts" that may be desirable when photographing in early or late light? 2) Is there a way to do anything similar in Lightroom? It seems that I can only set the overall WB (as I would in ACR) and then export to Photoshop for any more subtle control. Any comments or insight would be welcome. Donald
  22. My Leica D-Lux 3 that displays (1) a purple color shift for white colors in bright light; and (2) a photos show a green or yellow tint in low light. I have looked over the presets and defaults. I cannot find a switch that improves the display. I believe that the exposure sensor is damaged or malfunctioning. Otherwise, the camera is in good shape cosmetically and according to a review of the presets and default, working correctly. A used replacement on Ebay is about $150 to $200. My questions are: -1- Can I send my camera to the Leica repair for a new sensor for that amount of money? I know about the submission form that requires a maximum repair cost to be stated. -2- Is a Leica repaired camera totally checked out and then repaired so as to insure long lasting functioning? -3- Is it better to purchase another non-leica camera for $150 to $200 with improved specifications like increased megapixels? Thanks for reviewing my questions, Inkbox PS I encountered an error when uploading files; although I deleted the upload files, I cannot upload replacements. I have used up all of my storage space and cannot locate a delete button in My Attachments.
  23. gwpics

    Taxi!

    Reminded me of people like Saul Leiter or maybe Ernst Hass, don’t know but I like it. Leica M240 + 50mm Summicron f2. Processed in LR Classic using a Kodachrome 25 preset. Gerry
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