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About lecycliste

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  • Birthday 04/05/1956

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  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Chacoan ANasazi ruins and cultural artifacts, architecture / interiors, slot canyons, travel, documentary score composing, portraiture, events
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  • City
    Albuquerque, New Mexico
  • Job
    Consultant, photographer
  • Your Leica Products / Deine Leica Produkte
    M3, M6 TTL, M10
    16-18-21mm f/4 Tri-Elmar-M ASPH, 28mm f/2.8 Elmarit-M ASPH, 35mm f/2 Summicron-M ASPH, 50mm f/1.4 Summilux, 75mm f/2 APO-Summicron-M ASPH, 90mm f/2.8 Tele-Elmarit v2, 135mm f/4 Elmar. And yes, I use em all.
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  1. You can't turn it off in my M10 from 2017, but is there a way to disable / turn off long exposure noise reduction in the M10-R? Doing starfield / Milky Way night shots, I hate waiting for twice a 16-19 second shutter speed to make the next of several multiple exposures. The SL2 allows you to switch off this function. Does the M10-R let you turn it off? Thanks.
  2. I use CV 35/1.2 II on SL and SL2. Faithful, unsmeared rendering to the corners on both cameras. I’d expect the 35/2 APO-Lanthar to be similar.
  3. The Sony version focuses down to 13.78”, and the Leica M-mount (VM) version focuses down to 19.7”. Those 6 inches can make a big difference in closeup rendering. Sony cameras’ sensor stacks are also thicker than sensors on Leica M and L-mount cameras, so Sony cameras do less well with obliquely-angled light rays at the sensor’s periphery. Those peripheral light rays tend to go between pixels or to adjacent pixels instead of where they should go. That translates into blurry corners on Sony.
  4. I put RRS L-brackets on all my cameras for easy Arca-head tripod use for verticals and horizontals, and for protection. And because of problems with my trapezius muscles, I can no longer carry cameras on neck straps. Instead, I use the SpiderPro holster system. Really Right Stuff L-bracket for Leica SL2 - https://www.reallyrightstuff.com/Leica-SL2-Camera_2 Spider holster clamp - slides on RRS L-bracket to allow placement in Spider holster - https://spiderholster.com/products/spiderpro-clamp-v2 SpiderPro dual camera holster belt - https://spiderholster.com/products/spiderpro-dua
  5. Petroglyphs and food don't normally crawl away, so no Poof! involved. When you're hiking through Chacoan Anasazi ruins or Ancestral Puebloan or Fremont culture petroglyphs, it can be windy and dusty. And you may have a limited time the client allows you to shoot his food products. There's absolutely nothing unplanned about it, just a need to go both 27" to 36" and closer than 27" on the client's schedule.
  6. When you're in a windy, dusty environment, or there's not much time to get the shot, you don't want to be unmounting a lens to put on extension rings. I have an original 16469Y / OUFRO in my bag, and it's stayed there for years. It was originally designed for use on the Visoflex II / III, the reflex mirrorbox kludge for Leica M film cameras. The Visoflex II and III made no sense in an era of dedicated SLR cameras. The 16469Y became usable with Leica M-cameras with live view, the M Typ 240 and everything after. I've used it for indoor product shots with a 75mm f/2 APO-Summicron-M ASPH on an M10
  7. In an age when almost every new lens between 14mm and 100mm focuses down to 11" or closer, it's time Leica upped their game. Yes, the M-rangefinder camera is more or less a 1954 design, from a time when a lot more imprecision in framing, focusing and exposure accuracy was tolerated. But today's user wants the small size and optical quality of a Leica M and its lenses. If they get modern lens usability and performance, that user is willing to put up with a little extra effort in using the M-camera and lenses.
  8. I've photographed food and Ancestral Puebloan petroglyphs with the Voigtlander 35mm f/1.2 Nokton II VM and Zeiss 25mm f/2.8 Biogon T* ZM at 0.5m on an M10, using the Typ 020 EVF. It's a very light, high-quality location setup if you're not shooting action. I actively look for M-lenses focusing closer than 0.7m. If the capability's there I use it to tell more of the story.
  9. I bought a used silver 35mm f/1.4 Summilux-TL for my Leica SL2. It was around $900 less than a new one, and half the price of a used 50/2 APO-Summicron-SL ASPH. I always use hoods on my lenses for flare reduction and protection. Because the used silver 35mm f/1.4 Summilux-TL didn't come with one, I bought a used hood - black since that's what I could find - again for half the price of a new hood. That silver lens renders very sharp pictures and pleasing background blur with its black lens hood. But I'm certain the other three possibilities - black-silver, silver-silver, black-black - re
  10. Instead of the Visoflex Typ 20, I prefer Leica’s more recent EVF. It’s called the SL2. 😜😜
  11. No manual AFIK, but definitely a mention in my 1954-era manual for the M3. Here's a picture with my 1954 50/1.5 Summarit. Little Jessie and big Taylor are good buddies. Leica M10, 50mm f/1.5 Summarit (1954, designed 1936. Recoated at Focal Point Lens 2017.) ************************************* This was the first Leica lens I ever used, back in 1969. My grandfather bought it with an M3 camera in Heidelberg in 1954. I'd spiral-scratched the c4@p out of the softly-coated front element with over-zealous cleaning when I was a teenager. I had it recoated by John van St
  12. That's pretty good. Unfortunately, I won't be trading in my M10 for an M10R anytime soon.
  13. I always use a lens hood, so any possible reflection is a non-issue. Even if the lens is butt-ugly, if it's functional I don't care. Optical quality is my first priority. I can tolerate vignetting if the MTF / micro-contrast / sharpness to the edges are good. And $7000 vs Leica still makes the APO-Lanthar 35/2 a no-brainer, especially with no focus shift.
  14. And the silver ring affects optical quality how? 😜😜
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