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Hey, Has anybody used a Super Angulon M 21mm f4 on Leica SL2 with Leica M to SL adapter? Does it hit the sensor or better how far is it from sensor? -
Hi all, I wear glasses and have been challenged for the past year with seeing the full rangefinder view especially with wider lenses like the 35mm f1.4 Summilux M and of course the 28 Summicron M. Because I can't often see the frame lines unless I'm shooting in 50 or longer, My only other option is to shoot with the Visoflex, but I don't like how it impacts the nimble compact ergonomics of the M11-P I currently own. I'm starting to think that the M11-P is no longer a camera that fits my needs, but I still want to use the beautiful M glass I own, so I've been considering moving my M lenses over to an SL system, which I understand is the next best thing. So I'm trying to decide which camera to choose. I mainly shoot street, documentary and portrait photography. The SL2-S and SL3-S appeal to me mostly on price and low light performance. The SL3-S sounds great as it seems to have solved some issues with better AF, although I will mainly be shooting on M lenses. I also hear from a lot of people that the SL2 is an amazing camera especially when shooting with M glass, but I also hear that it's not great in low light. Which I think is important to me. I used to own the SL3, but I didn't like it for a number of reasons, which I won't get into in this post. So here are my options: 1. SL3-S: Since it's new it has all the latest and greatest, so I may down the line use the AF with AF lenses, but for now this purchase is mainly for M glass, so maybe it's not necessary to spend that kind of money especially if I'm going to just use it for M glass? 2. SL2-S: This seems like the best value option. I can get a new in the box SL2-S for around $2600 right now, and it has great low light and if I'm using it just with M glass for now, it seems like a good option 3. SL2: I keep hearing how magical this sensor is. And it's currently around $3300 or less used. My only concern with this is that I hear it's not great with low light and I seem to always find myself in low light situations. I'm leaving the SL3 out because I used to own it and it's also the most expensive so I don't see a use case where this makes sense. But of course if you feel I'm overlooking something please convince me! Which one would you pick if your primary use case is to migrate the use of M glass from an M11 to an SL body, and you shoot documentary, street, Family and Portrait works? Thanks!! -
Hello I'm new to this forum and Leica camera having only changed to Leica in the last 6 months. I use a mixture of Broncolor and Profoto flash packs and I was wondering if anyone has had issues with getting remote triggers to fire with their SL cameras. I have an SL2 and just recently an SL3 but firing flashes using either a broncolor RFS trigger (its an older trigger with one pin on the bottom) and both Profoto Air remote (non TTL) and the Profoto Connect remote for Leica (which is brand new) flash triggering is unreliable and intermittent. Has anyone had experience with this? I thought originally it may be an issue with the hotshoe on my SL2 (as I bought it second hand) but I'm having the same issues with the SL3. I do wish it had a flash nipple (call me old school) as it would be nice to have backup flash firing option. Is there a menu setting that I'm missing or any adaptor anyone can suggest? Just for context I'm not a newby at photography, I have been a professional ad shooter for 25 years and most of my work has been using Phaseone equipment (which I still use) but have recently swapped out of Canons (R5/R3)for 35mm. Thanks in advance E
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Hi, there is one new Feature on the SL3 that i would love to have on my SL2-s and Other SLs. The light Level on the OLED Display. This can’t be that difficult? If you are working with different SLs this display should display the same features. I used this levels a lot on my other cameras as it became a standard in the 90s. So I was a little disappointed when I had to realize that with the SL2-s this level is not available. Do I need the battery symbol at this location > I am not sure 🤔 the Bluetooth symbol ? I don’t know Cards? Modes? > Bigger displayed > But there is one thing I would love to know when I look down on my camera > exposure > just for reference. I can prepare the shot without holding the camera to the eyes! All the others information I can get when I look through the camera. But the light levels > this is very important to me. And if you don’t like the proposal, many we can activate and deactivate the feature. And speaking about light levels and dynamic range. 14-15 stops , 14 decided by 2 is 7 …. can we get 5 stops on each side to sea what is going on? I know that you can see this with the histogram. But sometimes if you are taking pictures in low light 💡 it’s nicer to know where you hitting the lowest capacity of the camera. And 10 Stops should not be that big of a deal. I don’t need it in the OLED > but in the Viewfinder > that would be excellent. that are 2 of the things that I would love to see in future firmware updates. cheers 🥂 Peter
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I’m using an Atomos Ninja V 5” monitor driven by the SL2’s HDMI port. It displays the viewfinder image just fine, but none of the AF tracking and exposure data shown in the viewfinder. This gives me a very viewable display at low camera angles - the eyepiece no longer gets in the way, and I can actually see what I’m shooting. ** Is anyone else using an external monitor, and how do I get the AF tracking point and exposure info I see in the viewfinder to appear in the external monitor? Right now all I get is the viewfinder image. I have to place the AF tracking point in the middle of the viewfinder and put the subject there when I’m using the external monitor without knowing if I’m AF tracking or not. Thanks.. -
I've been shooting with Sigma 100-400 for couple of months. As others have mentioned I find that this lens punches way above its price point in terms of IQ. Also due to its compact size and weight I find myself bringing this lens along far more often than I've ever done with a lens with 400mm reach. Today I decided to test the lens to try to answer a couple of questions I had about the lens: 1. I was finding some inconsistency in sharpness even when shooting on tripod. There's been speculation in various posts that this could be due to mechanical shutter. I wanted to test this out. 2. I also have the TC-1411 teleconverter, but have not been making much use as I was uncertain about its impact on image quality. I've seen several reviews that report little to no IQ degradation from its use so decided to test it out. To answer the first question I took 3 exposures using mechanical shutter and compared the results. I found wide variation in the results. I repeated the test 3 times with the same wide variation. The test was conducted on a tripod (top of the line Really Right Stuff) at 100 ISO with 12 second shutter delay shooting from indoors ( no wind or other impacts). I then repeated the test several times with electronic shutter. While there was some variability between shots the differences were minor. Based on this relatively simple test I'm satisfied that the speculation that mechanical shutter impacts image quality in a noticeable way is in fact correct. I will be using electronic shutter with this lens from now on. In order to answer the second question I took a series of 3 images at 400mm and then at 560mm focusing on a group of junction boxes on top of a building ( distance about 230 meters or 750 ft. I chose this subject because the boxes have numbers on them which helped with subsequent comparison between images. Also the texture on the wall surrounding the junction boxes offered a further reference point. From each set of images taken at 400m and 560mm I selected the best one (differences were minor based on use of electronic shutter). I then compared the image taken at 560mm with 200% magnification with the one taken at 400mm with 300% magnification. I used these settings as I figured it would "roughly" equalize the result between using lens with teleconverter versus doing a more aggressive (equivalent) crop in post. All images were shot at 100 ISO in the case of 400mm F6.3 & 1/125 and in case of 560mm at F9.0 & 1/60 Below I've attached the comparison between the two. I will share which is which in subsequent post but thought I'd share and get some initial reaction to the comparative difference.
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Has anyone else noticed an issue when using AF with the SL2? CONTEXT - I'm working with VE 24-90 and VE 90-200 on the SL2. The same problem occurs with the Sigma 45 DG DN - so it's not a Leica lens specific problem. I usually default to field metering and AFS. However, I've recently set Intelligent AF as a default. At the moment (lockdown!) I'm mainly working with landscape photography while doing socially distanced treks in the area around where I live. ISSUE - I've started noticing that with Intelligent AF + Field (or ANY other relevant AF mode) the focus locks as normal on the selected area, but with the shutter half down to lock AF, the image in the screen blurs slightly. The moment the shutter is fired (or pressure is released) everything snaps back into clarity. I found this very distracting. I think I've found the solution for now is to switch to AFS, where this behaviour does not manifest itself. REQUEST - Does any one else share this experience - or can you reproduce it? If yes, any thoughts on a solution - or is this maybe a firmware issue we need to raise with Leica? I'd be interested to hear your thoughts.
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I'm currently wrestling with which lenses to keep / sell / add - and wonder if others are dealing with similar issues. At the moment I'm using two systems. L mount and M mount. The L mount system is one SL2 body and the following lenses: VE 24-90 VE 90-280 Sigma 45 f2.8 DG DN The M system is two M10 bodies and: 15 Voigtlander Super-wide Heliar III f4.5 28 Summicron Asph 35 Summicron Asph 50 Summilux Asph 50 Summarit f2.4 75 Summarit f2.4 90 Macro-Elmar + macro adapter 135 M Apo-Telyt f3.4 In the current circumstances, my daily carry everywhere is the SL2 + 24-90. I never thought it would be so easy to manage - but it is. Because of how life is at the moment, I'm hardly using the VE 90-280. This means there is a large lump of money sitting in a lens that is little used. However, I got it for a good price used and I'll hold on to it for a year or two and then review. I don't use the Sigma 45 so much since I got the VE 24-90 (which is SUCH a good, well behaved lense), but I still like the images I make and I am happy to retain it for now. I'm also not using the M's much at present. This isn't a reason for getting rid of them - but the retained lenses are another issue. If I look back through thousands of images in my Lightroom archive, the three M lenses that dominate are 28 / 35 / 50. The others account for only about 5% of images. I loved the 90 Macro when I first got it - but I was mainly using it as a compact medium telephoto on the M10, and not really using it for macro! AND The Sigma 45 (with its near macro capability) on the SL2 was so much easier to work with! Likewise, I've had the 135 A-T for a long time, and it's a flawless lens (which works great on the SL2), but how much do I use it? Very little at the moment. I use the Voigtlander 15 Super-wide Heliar very little too - but I know that it's essential for certain kinds of interior and landscape Now that I have the SL2, the lenses that are really redundant are the 50 & 75 Summarits + the 90 Macro-Elmar. Off to Ffordes they will go. But then what. What am I lacking. My current feeling is that it's a really good portrait lens and (possibly) a dedicated medium telephoto / macro lens. Which leads me to Sigma. It seems that the new 85 1.4 DG DN is a candidate as is the 105 Macro DG DN. I'm also tempted by the 35 f2 DG DN - though this overlaps with the 35 Summicron (which works beautifully on either M or SL). SO - does anyone have experience with the two Sigma lenses mentioned above (85 / 105). Does anyone have other thoughts? I'm toying with the Sigma 14-35, but I'm not sure if I'd use it that much. Heigh ho - I suppose this is all to do with too much time on my hands during the pandemic - though I did get out this morning in beautiful sunshine and snow (with the SL2 and 24-90!). Examples here: Thanks for any thoughts... -
Hi Photogs Can anyone explain how the SL2 processes it’s multi shot images when set in multi-shot mode? I understand that the camera takes 8 different shots by moving the sensor 0.5 pixels each time. My question is does the camera merge these 8 images to produce the final 187 MB image or does it interpolate between each of the 8 images to produce the final result ? A couple of my multi-shots look like they have had mild HDR treatment which is not to everyone’s taste. Is that the intention or consequence of multi-shot images? Any advice welcome ! Thanks David
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Hello there, I am looking to get some advice coming from a Sony A9, which I got not because I shoot action, but because I was drawn to the "no blackout" EVF. I have used and owned many Leicas in my day, including the MP film camera, the M9, M240, Q, and M10, and am currently "between" Leicas. I am wondering whether anyone can guide me with my next decision: Whether to sell the Sony A9 and the glass I own for it in order to get a Leica SL2 or SL2S, or to get the Leica M10R. I absolutely love the experience of looking through a glass viewfinder at the real world and I like to take a minimalist approach to what gear I carry. I never "spray and pray," even with the A9, at most I focus once, recompose and shoot. I don't always hit focus with the M cameras, and sometimes I get a little stressed by the fact that you cannot see the exact framing of the image, and many of the lenses (such as the Summicron 35mm M I still own) do not focus on close subjects. So I guess what I am saying is that I am struggling with the pros and cons of both systems. The M system is near and dear to me, but I don't always get focus or framing when under a little pressure. The SL2S intrigues me as a good way to replace my Sony A9, sacrificing Sony's autofocus madness, button layout, and pages of frustrating menus, for a more sublime Leica experience, but seems a little heavy. The reason I was thinking of SL2S versus M10R is that the resolution of the M10R would allow me to "fix" the framing if I don't get it perfect, where on the SL2S I would be seeing exactly what I would get before I shoot, so the extra resolution would probably not be needed as much. Of course I would love to own both someday Note: I am not a professional photographer. I like shooting street, landscape and sometimes non-studio portraits. I like Leica because of the simplicity of use, the connection to film days, and because of the dedicated dials for ISO, Shutter Speed, Aperture. If the M10D had a film advance lever that worked, I probably would have pulled the plug on that baby! And if the Sony A9 had dedicated dials (and less of them) and about 10 pages less of options (animal eye auto focus - wow!) I would consider keeping it. Thanks for any advice you may have!
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Some impressions from today, as i was asked to take some pics with the new Panasonic 24/50/85 lenses (all of them at min f1.8). I am testing not like others by taking pics from a wall, the lenses have to proof themselves by working with them. Of course the pics are postprcessed as all of my pics but in short conclusion you will get good working lenses with good results. There might be some differences in pixlpeeping in high end prints (and on screen at 100% view) but this is not the normal view. In this setting from todays morning i went into the cathedral, unfortunately i did not realize the beginning of the church service and it was too late to leave the tomb of henry the Lion and his wife Mathilde when the bells started to ring.... 24mm:
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Hi there, I am attempting to repair the battery terminal for the light meter on my SL2, which corroded and snapped off some years ago. I have seen a repair video for the same issue on an SL model on YouTube and it certainly looks achievable: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXSjrAUj0EQ I am having trouble removing the bottom casing though. After removing the 2 screws and either end of the body, it's clear it is still fastened in the middle, however there is no drive hole to unscrew inside the tripod mount. It's possible that it has been stripped off if it's soft aluminium. I have attempted with a Robertson bits and Hex bits and there is nothing in there to grip - but I can also see that there is nothing to grip.... Is it different between the SL and SL2... or if it has been stripped, is there any other way to remove the screw/cover? Thanks in advance...
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Hi, I shoot a lot of commercials.I bought sl2 this time.An incident occurred during the first commercial shoot using sl2.The picture came in well on the capturer one, and there was no problem taking it.Then, at some point, the camera went completely out of order.Touch screens are not available and power buttons are not available.If a stop occurs, the battery must be forcibly removed.And when we film again, things go well, and at some point, af stutters.It stops again.This phenomenon continued to occur on the set.Usage environment - macbook pro, capturer one, ether cable (usb C), sd card not usedI'll connect the link. I would appreciate it if you could check and tell me the cause.Laika only says it's an SD card problem even if there's no problem at all.There's no problem, so there's nothing I can do for you.It's so frustrating. https://youtu.be/A8ubSdv87nY SL2 All functions stopped.
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Ich ärgere mich jedes mal darüber, dass ich beim Hineinzoomen in ein gerade geschossenes Foto immer irgendwo im Bild lande und nicht an der Stelle wo der Fokus zuvor beim Fotografieren festgelegt wurde. Was soll diese Sucherei? Wenn ich bei einem Porträt auf die Augen fokussiere, will ich bei der Bildkontrolle nicht irgendwo am Hals etc. landen, sondern genau auf den Augen. Bei anderen Marken wie z.B. Nikon klappt das immer! Ich habe vor Monaten schon einmal einen Verbesserungsvorschlag an Leica gesendet, der aber bisher nicht erhört wurde. Stört das niemanden von euch? Oder habe ich eine Funktion an meiner SL2 übersehen?
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Hi all, I've noticed there isn't a dedicated thread for editing L-Log footage, so I will begin one here. I realize that colouring and re-touching video is a very subjective field, but I wanted to see how others work within Leica's limited literature surrounding post-production in video. I've just updated my Atomos Ninja V to the latest firmware, which now allows for L-Log recording from leica (the past year with the SL2 was a little tedious working with both internally and externally recorded video footage). Now, with this update, BT2020 seems a lot nicer. I've just done my first video about this update here: -
Hey , I can't find an angle viewfinder for the SL2. How do you manage to make low or high angle picture without using your phone. Is there any DIY that you can recommend? And apart of this: is there a menu point to mirror the image of the camera? If so we could just use a mirror or something reflective as a mirror. And yes I know that you can take the picture and alter the framing. But sometimes its quit nice to see what you are doing. I am enjoying both methods but I would like to achieve the method with more control. Curious how you solve this challenge. kind regards Peter
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This may seem a bit obvious, but after having followed a general principle of having a 2 minute auto power off, and being left with 50% power after a day's walking and maybe 60 images, I decided to switch to a 10 second auto power off, and I'm finding I still have a full bar indicated after the same kind of use. If you've been unhappy with battery-life, I'd recommend playing with the power-off settings and seeing what improvements you can make. For information, I'm not experiencing significant start up delays either. Just touch the shutter button and everything's good to go pretty well immediately.
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I was wondering if anyone has done side by side comparisons of the Sigma L mount 24-70 with the Leica Vario Elmarit 24-90. I find that I use my Sony a9 mostly as follows: 75% of the time I have the excellent 55mm Sony Zeiss 1.8 on it due to the best balance of size, weight, sharpness, bokeh, every day use 20% of the time I use the excellent zeiss batis 25mm 1.8 5% of the time I think about using my 70-200 f4 Sony or my excellent 24-70 Sony G master f2.8...and then decide I don't really want to carry it around, so I take the 25mm and the 55mm instead and alternate use. This can be a pain when I need to swap them back and forth but is lighter option and sometimes I just take one. So I am trying to figure out where I would start with a Leica SL2 system, as I only have a Leica M 35 summicron presently: Go with a 24-90mm Leica Vario Elmarit (costly and heavy) and use my M lens when I want a lighter setup to walk around with. Go with a Sigma 24-70 for general use, and then put money towards an autofocus Leica 35mm or Leica 50mm. Neither of these setups will address the 70-200 lens that would be missing, but I rarely used it, so I can do without I think and either pick up a used 135mm manual focus lens, or maybe a 100mm macro lens and crop it. At any rate, would be nice to get some feedback on the image quality of the Sigma 24-70 as that might help me decide. I am continually trying to choose between the SL2, SL2s and M10r and it doesn't seem to make sense to get the SL2 system without at least one autofocus general purpose lens. Otherwise, might as well just go with the M! Thanks, all! -
Hi, Apologies if this is a dumb/naive/inappropriate request, but I am wondering whether any of you know of decent (preferably free) monochrome presets for Lightroom that can be used with SL2 files. I used to use Silver Efex Pro 2 as part of the Nik Collection, but I can't use that now on my iMac. Thanks in advance.
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As i am very busy at these strange times there a some moments i have to have a break. At one of these rare moments last sunday i went on a early morning trip to the harz mauntains, in order to be at the top the Brocken mountain at sunrise. It happened the way it had to.... some early morning light before sunrise... followed by a foggy cold morning at -6°C. At the top wind gusts aprox. 60 km/h. In conclusion: A perfect day. On the way back down the sun broke through and more hikers catched the moment. first lights #1
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After shooting for a few minutes (or after a certain number of shots), the EVF displays a message that “burst shooting or recording in 4K is not available” (or something similar to that). Even though I am using a fresh battery, completely charged, the battery level quickly goes to the 50-75% range. I have the camera (SL2) set to shoot in high burst mode and I may get about 50 or so shots before this message is displayed. If you can only get 50 or so shots on high burst mode, this makes the battery/camera very limited if you need these high burst rates. Since I am new to Leica, I guess I have something set wrong. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Two shots taken same day within a couple of minutes apart. One shot was taken with the SL2 single shot with SL16-35 and another with M10R with WATE. Both shots taken at ISO100 / M mode / F9 / 1/20 sec on tripod. Can you tell which shot is taken with SL2 + SL16-35mm lens? untitled-1001471 by sillbeers15 untitled-1020091 by sillbeers15
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Hi There Several people have asked me about this, and so it seemed to be worth doing it! All the files were originally shot on DNG - the sharpening and noise reduction sliders in Lightroom were all zeroed. The SL2 files were opened in Photoshop and the Image size reduced without any noise reduction help. They were then exported as 100% jpg quality 12 jpg files. I've then done an XY comparison zoomed in to approximately 100% and taken a screen shot. I'll put this on to the Review thread as well, but I thought it was worth putting it up as a separate thread. As you would expect - downsizing the SL2 images does help with the noise - but even so, at higher ISO there is still at least a stop difference. In each case the SL2-S is on the left. To me this is a little like angels dancing on the heads of pins, and it's also open to methodology questions - and anyway, why would you not use noise reduction?) First of all, the Scene: 100 ISO: 400 ISO 1600 ISO 6,400 ISO 12,500 ISO 25,000 ISO 50,000 ISO Finally 100,000 on the SL2-S and 50,000 on the SL2
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