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    Dark Lord
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    Monochrom Gen1

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  1. Hello, all. I own and regularly shoot an ME and an M9M. Although I really like these, I’m beginning to fear that they may soon reach the end of their serviceable lives. If is sell both now, I can use the funds to defray the cost of an M10M once the M11M comes to market. This leads to the question: is the M10M ISO invariant? I ask because one of the great things about shooting the M9M is it’s invariance. Ordinary, I set the ISO at either 400 or 1600 depending on conditions and then adjust in LR. I find I can usually push about 3-4 stops just fine. Shooting like this has the benefit of preserving highlights from clipping. So, is the M10M ISO invariant? Thanks in advance. Ace
  2. Higher resolution cameras are just naturally less forgiving of camera shake, period, full stop. There really is no solution to this problem other than shooting 2x or 3x the normal shutter speed, using a tripod or image stabilization. Please see this article by Ming Thein as he explains it much better than I can. Moreover, there are times when you may want SOME image blur but no camera shake. In cases where you might want to drag the shutter a bit to capture a subject’s movement but still keep the background sharp (a dancer an athlete in motion, for example) the standard technique is to shoot at around 1/30 of a second. That is slow enough to capture the subject’s movement but still keep the background sharp. However, to guard against camera shake inherent in higher reso sensors, the standard technique is to shoot at 2x or 3x regular shutter speed and compensate w higher ISO. However, shooting at 2x or 3x to ensure a sharp background (1/60 or 1/90) will tend to freeze the image. Increasing the shutter speed will not work as it will necessarily freeze the subject’s movement, which was the whole point of dragging the shutter in the first place. FWIW, I don’t own an M11, but I do own an ME and an M9M (18mpx each) and also own a Canon 5DsR (50mpx). The Canon is usually relegated to landscape shots mounted on a tripod, image stabilized lenses or higher shutter speeds. I use my old Leicas for everything else. Moreover, for most people in most circumstances there simply is no benefit or even use for such high pixel counts. I’ve been shooting digital cameras since my original Canon D30 (3mpx!) way back in 2000 and 1D (4mpx) in 2002. I’ve printed 3 and 4 mpx images to 12x18 inches with no issues at all. I’ve printed and displayed photos from my M9M (18 mpx) to 48 inches on the long side, again with no loss in quality. IMHO, and this will likely upset some people, 16 mpx is sufficient for almost everything and anything above 24 mpx is overkill UNLESS the photographer has a specific, articulable need for higher reso, such as advertising photography or landscapes. However, for a Leica M, that is typically shot handheld and under fast-moving conditions, 60 mpx is way overkill.
  3. Unless the strong sunlight is focused on the clothe shutter. In that case, it’ll burn a hole thru the shutter screen, or so I’ve read. That said, I bought a ‘55 M3 about six months ago and am really enjoying it. Hopefully the shutter will last until I pass the camera on to my daughter.
  4. I believe there’s also a way of mapping them out in photoshop, albeit on a photoshop per photo basis which can be automated thru using a macro. I’m more of a Lightroom man myself, so can’t speak to the mechanics of this.
  5. That said, my ME and M9M are functioning just fine. After 20+ years of shooting digital, I’ve only had two shutters fail on me, the M8 and a Canon 1Ds. Otherwise, every camera I’ve had, Canon, Leica and one Fuji have worked flawlessly.
  6. Thanks, @MikeMyers, and everyone else. This thread has been exceptionally helpful.
  7. FWIW, I did a trial session the other day and got good results. My main goal was to see how I could use my tripod instead of buying a copy stand and to test my new Canon 100mm lens. To that end, the test was hugely successful. My tripod was adequate to the task and really left nothing to be desired. I didn’t even need to reverse the center pole as the head pivoted exactly enough to enable the camera to point downward. The lens focused as expected as well. I do need to spend more time on the camera settings and leveling but as a proof of concept it worked well and set up was very quick. The main issue I encountered was Lightroom. I reversed the points in the Lightroom curve and got a positive image, but even this really wasn’t enough. I think I need to buy Negative Lab Pro. Otherwise, tho, the system worked as intended.
  8. Got it. Thanks. Might try to jury-rig a setup like it on my own.
  9. @MikeMyers and @erl , thanks for your input. After my last post, I felt I had gotten some passionate but mixed advice, some urging I use a camera whole others urging a scanner. I posted the same questions on three different forums in DPReview and got surprisingly similar results. My guess now is that there is no best answer, just two good solutions with significant pros and cons to each. Ultimately, I decided to go the camera method and bought a used 100mm Canon f/2.8 on eBay. I planned to post again in this thread after I had done my first session but given the recent answers felt I should chime in now. @Doug A, I’ve seen the BEOON copy stands on eBay but a, otherwise unfamiliar with them. Do you know if I can mount a Canon 100mm lens on one?
  10. The 40mm FL is def interesting. Sally Mann is quoted as saying it is exactly the right length for her, and I think I agree w her. I have a 40 in Canon EF mount and use it fairly often because of its pancake size. I have to say, I like the 40. Still, I tend to shoot my 50 Cron most often on the Leicas.
  11. Incidentally, I also found that backfocus is virtually eliminated at close distances if you avoid using f/2.8 and f/4.
  12. Actually, no, I haven’t. I did have use of a 35 Summicron and tested it for sharpness against the Nokton. While I thought the Summicron was sharper at f/2 than the Nokton, I didn’t think it was substantially so. As to backfocus, I think it’s really overblown. 35 is more commonly used to capture scenes and thus at a bit of a remove from the subject. I found that once the subject is beyond 6 feet (2 meters) the depth of field becomes large enough to overcome the backfocus. Backfocus was a greater problem for those of us who used the Nokton on M8s as a substitute for a 50mm. In that case getting close to a subject is expected and can result in backfocus. However, once used on a full frame camera, such as an M9, the Nokton reverts back to its intended use to capture scenes and the backfocus issue is much reduced.
  13. I own a 50mm Summicron and also 15mm F/4.5, 35mm Nokton, and a 75mm f/2.4 (?) Color Skopar by CV that are all just great. The only neg here is the 35’s back-focus between f/2.8 and f/4 at close distances. Other than that, they are truly great. Are they “better” than their Leica counterparts? Don’t really know, but for me, they’re good enough.
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