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I just got a brand new MP (manufactured July 2025) and the vertical alignment is slightly off. The dealer offered to exchange it but they don't have a replacement on hand and will have to wait for Wetzlar (unfortunately with no timeframe). I know the vertical alignment is just behind the small screw on the front. Does anyone know if the recent MPs require a special tool for the vertical alignment like some of the other film Ms such as the M6 do? Or is it just a 2mm hex like the horizontal adjustment?
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Hi Leica lovers, I have a silver MP (purchased in Korea in September 2022, serial starts with 5613xxx). In November, I came to notice that lower line of 50mm frame vanished when attached 50mm summicron for the first time. I had M3 and was using MP with 35mm lens only till that time. When I look into viewfinder in the very center, it is fine. However, with slight downward movement of eyes, the lower line of 50mm frame vanishes - with upward move it remains clearly. 28mm and 35mm frames are clearly visible with same position of eyes. I took it to local Leica seller (Bando, authorized seller in Korea) to check and repair. They replied that it was not a flaw, saying that they communicated to Leica Headquarter in Germany and got the same reply - it is a normal viewfinder status. I don't know how exactly they communicated to Germany. I really can't accept the response as it really vanishes and giving me a hard time to re-position eyes to get exact frame. IMHO, the internal reflection angle from the light in-take window to viewfinder is failing to brighten the lower frame line for 50mm. MP users, please share your experience with 50mm frame line. And will there be a kind of Q&A channel(English) to communicate to Leica service in Germany? Thank you in advance. ---------------------------------------- Here are some pictures that I took with my smart phone camera. I've tested with 50mm summicron, w/o lens, and even holding up-side down - always the same line vanishes. Note that I put camera facing floor to eliminate any possible light interference. A. With 50mm summicron.Note that upper line remains clear edge to edge compared to lower line. B. Without lens. 28mm lines are very clear with all movement C. With 35mm lens. All clear edge to edge.
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Hello there. I am a happy owner of a Leica MP. I bought it as my first Leica couple of days ago after saving up for a considerable amount of time. Unfortunately I have a problem with my camera and after searching in internet I found out that nobody had a problem like mine. So I wanted to ask this minor thing that has been itching me for the last 2 days to the knowledgable people of this forum: My question is: Is it normal to have a 3mm long scratch in the inside of the baseplate, close to the little wheel? I noticed that after opening up the camera there is a small protrusion which sticks out of the camera in the film take up spool side. I suspect that it made the scratch to the inside of the baseplate as the tip of the protrusion is matching with the scratch itself. I don't remember if it was there or not when I opened camera for the first time. When I had my camera for the first time I accidentally closed the baseplate without the backdoor of the camera sitting perfectly. So when I locked the baseplate up the backdoor was literally open. I ofcource immediately saw my mistake and closed the camera correctly. Is there a possibility of I caused that scratch? I am afraid that I was so excited to have my Leica that I caused the scratch by accident. If you enlighten me in this subject I would be grateful. Thanks in advance...
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Over the years I have been fortunate to be able to work and save some extra money to pursue my serious hobby of photography. During this time I've acquired an M2, M4 Black Chrome, M4-P and M6 TTL. All bodies are in excellent condition and used regularly on rotation. But now .....I'm lusting after an MP Black Paint since I prefer to have a meter - - It's is not a logical thought process. Why get an MP when I already have the combined functions of an MP in all my current bodies? .......and If I decide to get it I will have to sell a few bodies to fund it fully. So at the end would it be worth it going with an MP and sacrificing the older bodies for it? I know this is such an objective question - and everyone's circumstances are different and I might be going thru an episode of "GAS" but looking for opinions to keep me out of it or going thru with getting an MP .
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Hallo zusammen, ich hatte vor eineinhalb Wochen das Vergnügen, im Leica Store mit der Q3 herumzuspielen und mit dem Mitarbeiter ein wenig zu quatschen (um auszuloten, ob sich für mich ein Upgrade von der Q2 lohnt 😉). Er teilte mir unter anderem mit, dass bei geringeren Auflösungseinstellungen (36,5 oder 18,6 MP) jeweils eine gewisse Zahl Pixel des Sensors für die Aufnahme zusammengefasst werden. Daraufhin kam mir die Idee, dass sich dadurch ja eventuell die High-ISO-Performance bei den Auflösungen 36,5 oder 18,6 verbessern könnte (ist vielleicht naiv von mir). Der Mitarbeiter verneinte, sagte aber, dass, wenn man geringere Auflösungen einstellt (36,5 oder 18,6 MP) , "sich der Dynamikumfang um bis zu ca. 1-2 Blenden verbessern" würde. Ist natürlich nur eine vage Aussage (was auch an meiner vagen Erinnerungsleistung liegt, die mir meine Frau regelmäßig vorhält), aber um der Sache auf den Grund zu gehen...hier meine Frage: Hat mal einer der Early-Q3-Users getestet, ob durch die Einstellung 36,5 oder 18,6 MP (statt 60 MP) der Dynamikumfang oder generell die Low-Light-Fähigkeiten der Q3 besser werden? Vielen Dank für Eure Antworten/Einschätzungen. P.S.: Übrigens kann ich bestätigen, was jmschuh hier schon geschrieben hat: Das Klappdisplay, welchem ich ziemlich kritisch gegenüberstand, macht einen wirklich soliden Eindruck, welcher meine Bedenken weitestgehend zerstreut hat.
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When I reloaded my mp today, putting rewind switch to r and rewinding whole film then taking the bottom plate off, the camera makes weird noise like film rewinding at once really quickly. After reloading with a new film, the rewind switch was set to normal shooting mode again. What was the problem? Im Korean, so please understand me if I named some parts wrong
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love their videos, they release the videos a week or so before the actual sale, which in this case in in the 1st week of January 24 https://www.kitamuracamera.jp/ja/event/onlinesale_2023_1226
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Shot film in the 80s and 90s (Olympus and Nikon) then digital only for past 20 years (including SL 601 since it came out) Loaded my Nikon F5 last year and loved shooting film again. Now considering an M. Have read and watched all I can, so understand the differences between the 3 currently available film M cameras but still undecided. Don’t mind black or chrome (and not chasing a BP finish). Have always had a light meter in my camera (apart from shooting my Dad’s old Ilford as a kid) but am attracted to the simplicity of the M-A. Areas I could use advice on include the following please: - quality control issues, not sure if M6 scratching film issue has gone away. - viewfinder, which is best? (My eyesight is ok but am in mid 50s). - reliability over the long term. Anyone else been in my situation? How did you choose? Thanks for your help everyone.
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There are currently five analog M bodies in regular production: MP black paint, MP silver, M-A black, M-A silver, and M6 reissue. Which is your favourite? Or, rather, if you had to delete one from the lineup, which model would it be? I’ve handled and used all of them except the black M-A. I think the black paint MP is the most stunning. That said, I believe the M6 reissue holds its own against the MP and M-A and is quickly becoming my go-to analog camera.
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Alphagvrd has a new selection of 3M vinyl adhesive camera skins for the M11, MP, Q2 and SL2. These skins will dress up your camera and provide a level of abrasion protection. The installation video on Alphagvrd's website makes the process look fairly easy - have a look: https://leicarumors.com/2022/09/28/new-leica-mp-camera-skins-now-available-coupon-code-included.aspx/
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