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Found 19 results

  1. I recently acquired an M2. The frame counter dial had a moderate tightness IMO but I hadn’t had any experience with an M2. It could be easily rotated by a few clicks if my finger tips happened to slide over it when I picked up the camera. Later I sent it to CLA because the shutter got sticky if it had been cocked for a while. When it returned I found the counter dial became very tight that I had to use two fingers and nails to catch the dial and rotate it. It would no longer be easily rotated by finger sliding over it. I think it’s great so I don’t need to worry about touching it and mess up the counter anymore. But just in case I want to ask the experienced users that if it is how it supposed to be for the M2. Cheers!
  2. Liebe Spezialisten hier im Forum, bin seit gestern stolzer Besitzer einer schwarzen Leica M2. Laut Seriennummer handelt es sich um eine verchromte Version, auch sind meines Erachtens nicht alle Teile original (Schnellspannhebel, Selbstauslöser und Bildfeldwahl). Laut Vorbesitzer wurde die Kamera vor ein paar Jahrzehnten bei Leica von chrom auf schwarz umgerüstet und restauriert. Meine Frage ist, ob Leica früher wirklich solche Umbauten vorgenommen hat, oder ob der schwarz glänzende Anstrich aus anderen Händen kommt, bzw wie das Ganze einzuordnen ist (Vitrinenstück oder unbedarft benutzbar). Hübsch anzuschauen ist sie auf jeden Fall, die Lackierung ist gut gemacht und technisch/optisch ist alles einwandfrei. 😐
  3. Moin zusammen, ich habe seit ca. 4 Wochen das Problem, dass meine M2 manchmal den Film beim Spannen nicht richtig transportiert. Die Bilder überlappen sich dann. Man merkt es beim Spannen, der Spannhebel springt dann. Der Fehler tritt meistens auf wenn der Zähler bereits bei 20 -25 Bildern steht. Ich habe das Gefühl, dass der Film zwischendurch die Spannung verliert oder über die Zähne rutscht. Ist jemanden so etwas schon mal passiert oder kennt sogar jemand die Lösung? Im Moment elf ich mir in dem ich ein Bild mit Objektivdeckel mache wenn ich merke dass der Film nicht transportiert wurde. Gerade bei teuren oder alten Schätzen verliere ich so meist 4-6 Bilder was ehrlich gesagt sehr schade ist. Gerade bei Filmen wie einen Fuji Superia Reala 100 oder Kodak Ektachrome 160t Die kleine ist mein Ein und alles. Bitte helft mir. Mit freundlichen Grüßen Nik
  4. Guten Tag, ich habe in der letzte Woche meine Leica M2, die ich vor einem Jahr generalüberholen lassen habe, mit in den Urlaub genommen. Mit dabei hatte ich außerdem ein Elmarit 28 und ein Summilux 50 zwischen denen ich auch fleißig gewechselt habe. Leider weißt mein entwickelter Film auf etwa 30% aller Bilder störende Artefakte auf. Auf dem Foto folgenden Foto könnt ihr drei zusammenhängende Bilder sehen. Meine Frage jetzt: Woher kommt der Lichteinfall auf dem Film? Kommt ehr vermutlich von dem wechseln der Objektive oder ehr von einer Undichtigkeit auf der Rückseite der Kamera?
  5. Hi everyone, I've encounter a strange "bug" with my M2 I took a shot, then cocked the shutter so i would be ready for the next shot, but I didnt fire right away but let it be. When I took the next shot after some times, the shutter speed seems to be slower than the speed indicate in the shutter speed dial I make some test shots at 1/125 and 1/60, cocked the shutter, wait for couple of minute, then click the button. When the m2 fire, i believe it was fired at 1/15 or 1/8 I took one more test at 1/8, wait 3 minutes then fire, the shutter speed then fired at 1/4. The more i'd wait, the slower the speed. For example, 1 minute then it was slowered by 1 speed, 3 minutes for 3 speed... (not exact numbers) I've also tested to change the speed before/after advance the level, and before/after waiting for the next frame. But it seemed that the problem still remained I didn't have any trouble with the machine when clicked the button right after I cocked the shutter, but i really want to be always ready for the next frame. Have anyone encountered the same problem? Is there anyway to fix it?
  6. ​Vintage Summilux v2 1.4 PreAspherical 50mm, Leica M2, Tri-X 400, Monobath Developer
  7. Hello, I recently published my M2 user experience in my blog using Summaron35 f2. 8 and Summicron35 version 4.All were taken with Kodak Portra400. The M2 with these 2 lens are amazing. ( I got the good deal on Summicron35 during my trip in Munich, so I carried two 35mm lens😋. Hope you guys enjoy the picture and have fun shooting. I really love my M2 https://goo.gl/G5T1TR
  8. I completed my first year of back to film (stopped shooting film in 2003 when digital became convenient). I did shoot digital for past one year as well and it was fun to compare. I shot around 32 rolls of film (mostly 36 frames each) and almost 90% was in M2 (rest on Nikon FM2 and Konica T2). Many were experimental but I did use it for my summer roadtrip and to capture life as well. I got around 86 pictures that I like very much. That is 7% of total. Still small but I was experimenting a lot. Around the same time I shot more than 6000 digital pictures (with M240 and Nex6 evenly distributed). I got around 4% keepers from that. How much do you shoot in one year? (Note: Nobody pays me, I shoot for myself) All my film keepers
  9. We've all heard of that college student who bought an M2 for 5$ in a thift shop. I've never got such a deal but I've managed to get Leica equipment for low prices in the past. Such as a very clean M2 that I got in an eBay auction for 600$CAD. The shutter speed had to be adjusted, and the vulcanite had to be replaced. Other than that, it is in excellent condition. I later got an M262, which I also bought on eBay, for about 3500$CAD. The sensor was filled with dust and oil spots, and the focusing mechanism had to be lubricated two days after I recieved it. (Those problems where not specified by the seller) It looked like new back then, but after about six months of use, I've got some paint removed on the corners and a cut in the faux leather. It has been faithfull ever since. Then, yesterday, I looked for a replacement for my 35mm ZM 2.8 on the internet and ended up looking for pre-ASPH summicrons. I then stumbled uppon a 35mm Summicron on keh.com for 1080$USD. No picture of the actual lens was shown and generic pictures of a Type 4 where shown instead. It was listed as "UG" (ugly). Giving this extremely low price and the 180 day warranty offered by keh, I jumped on it. (I'll keep you guys updated on this purchase.) What are the good deals you guys managed to get on Leica equipment?
  10. Hi, I've had an M2 for a while now and the illumination window is now cracked and loose. Where could I buy a replacement? I can't find any used/new parts on ebay. Any source where I could get a new one? Thanks, Tommy Plouffe
  11. The 4th Plinth in Trafalgar Square, London, has a regularly changing piece on display - this one is based on the skeleton of a horse. M2, Skopar, Lomochrome film.
  12. Hi everyone, So I've recently gotten back into the M system with an M2, and am looking for some 50mm glass to go with it. I'd really like to go vintage - I used to shoot a V2 Summicron 50 (which I am a total fool for selling) on my M3 and loved the images, but am not sure whether I can spend that amount again. The qualities I love in vintage glass are flares, halation and artistic bokeh, but I'm not looking for anything too soft or glowy - this would be a general carry around lens, so I don't want its character to ever overshadow the content of pictures. In terms of use, I don't only shoot one thing - when I'm in the city I'll shoot street photos, architecture and friends/family. I also like hiking so I do a bit of nature/landscape. At the moment I'm shooting mainly on 500T but plan to get some Double-X in the future as well. For digital I'll be adapting to a Sigma FP. I'm not a fan of lenses that are too big (heavy I don't mind). I recently bought a Canon LTM 50mm 1.4 which ticks most of my boxes, but I find it too big to take around all the time, especially in terms of front diameter (the lens contained fungus that wasn't initially mentioned, so I'm returning it anyway). I've been considering the Nikkor LTM 50mm F2, but from what I've seen it does indeed get quite glowy and is pretty unusable wide open, despite being better than most other lenses from the 40's/50's. Most tests online don't specify the condition of the lens used or the aperture for specific shots though, so it's hard to form an opinion - if anyone has first hand experience with this model then please let me know! For 35mm I'm probably going with the Canon LTM 35mm F2, so that is a pretty good reference of the look I'm going for. Here are some tests for the 35mm F2 that I found online: http://ohm-image.net/opinion/photophile/review-canon-ltm-m39-35-2 http://rangefinderchronicles.blogspot.com/2012/11/leica-iiif-and-canon-35mm-f2-ltm-part-2.html Sorry for the long post - tried to provide as much info as possible but probably ended up rambling a little bit! Thanks in advance.
  13. So over the weekend a few drops of red bull were spilled on the top plate of my M2 (don't ask) - mainly on the right hand side, so the frame counter and shutter button were hit. The day after I noticed that the aforementioned parts felt sticky - the shutter button particularly was returning to it's normal position more slowy after being depressed. I didn't have any isopropyl alcohol on hand since it seems to be impossible to find in the UK, so I put a drop or two of denatured ethyl alcohol (surgical spirit, as it is called here) into the shutter button, then began to depress it repeatedly. This process was repeated 2 or 3 times. It seems to have worked very well and the camera feels normal again, but I am scared that ethyl alcohol might have adverse effects on the camera. From what I've read, isopropyl alcohol (if anything) is what should be used, and I've even read that ethanol can react with brass to cause oxidation. Is this something that I should be worried about, or am I overreacting?
  14. I use a M2 for practising film photography. But then I have the film scanned for further processing on the pc. I wonder: is this film photography or is this digital photography?
  15. For every +/- 100 images shot digitally there is also one film exposed on my cameras. Do you have a specific workflow combining analog and digital?
  16. Hi everyone, I'm planning to switch to Leica IXMOO reloadable film cassettes for bulk loading. However, the 5 cassettes that I managed to purchase all contain some degree of oxidation, so I'd like to give them a clean before putting them to use. Can anyone recommend a product and method with which to do this? I've heard vinegar works quite well, but obviously an IXMOO is a little more advanced than a doorknob, so I wanted to check first. Thanks in advance
  17. I have a 28mm Elmarit ASPH and was wondering which analog film bodies it is incompatible with? I believe the red dot fouls the lens release on the M3 is that right?
  18. Hello fellow Leica lovers, I've recently noticed a light leak in my M2 that only seems to occur when the Elmar 35/3.5 is attached and shooting Fuji Superia 400. Not all the frames were affected, as can be seen in the examples, but about half the roll. However, previous rolls of different film (Tmax and HP5+) with the same lens were fine as were later ones (Tri-x and Ultramax) with different lenses (Summaron 35/2.8 and Summicron-C 40/2). Quite perplexed, I thought it was just that particular film and tried the same M2 + Elmar 35/3.5 combination with a different batch (although I can't be sure now as I write this) Superia 400 and found a few frames afflicted - not as many though, about 5 out of 26 frames this time. The leaks bleed between frames, so I was thinking it was the back door and/or the strap lugs, but then the unaffected rolls from earlier and later shoots blew up that theory. FYI, the leak pattern from this post is very similar, which is why I suspected the strap lugs. Any help would be appreciated! Regards, Dan
  19. love their videos, they release the videos a week or so before the actual sale, which in this case in in the 1st week of January 24 https://www.kitamuracamera.jp/ja/event/onlinesale_2023_1226
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