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Found 16 results

  1. Dear all, I am the happy owner of a M(240), and more recently a CL and SL. I am coming from over 15 years of film M. I like shooting the rangefinder camera though I find a huge difference between my almost 5 year old M and the most recent (for me: I got the CL last january and the SL in October) cameras in image quality as soon as I shoot over iso 1600. I almost never shoot the M in color over iso 1600 since I don’t like what I can get out of lightroom @iso 2500 or more in color. i also have trouble with color consistency in mixed (daylight + artificial) lighting with the M. on both issues I find the SL is far superior and even the CL. Do you share the same experience ? do you think the M10 is much better in those areas ? thanks for sharing your experience didier
  2. gwpics

    The Gesture

    Taken whilst having my morning coffee in my favourite coffee house in my home town of Southampton, England.
  3. gwpics

    Pensive

    A young lady sits in contemplation at my favourite coffee shop. Leica M240 - 1/125th at f5.6 handheld @ 2,000 iso processed in LR Classic. Gerry
  4. Mettricks is the local coffee stop for me in Southampton. I took this whilst waiting for a friend for coffee. Outside the window you can see a group of Morris dancers preparing for a music festival. Leica M240 + 35mm Summarit f2.5 @ 1000iso. Gerry
  5. Last night I took a trip into the centre of the city to look at the temporary ice rink but also took the opportunity to photograph the latest city centre leisure complex consisting of 10 cinema screens and countless restaurants. The ice rink is visible as the blue area bottom left, but not the purpose of this image. I must be honest, it is probably a young persons place, and I am not a young person, but I was quite pleased with my efforts. Here is a sample image taken at 2500iso using the Leica M240 and 24mm Elmarit-M f2.8. Settings were 1/45 at f2.8 (no tripod). If you want a larger image go to https://gerrywalden.smugmug.com/TRAVEL-IMAGES/England-The-English/i-T2CLZVL/A Gerry
  6. Dear all, I had the opportunity to handle the CL for a few minutes this week. I have been considering for some time now either : . to add a SL to my M(240) . replace my M(240) with a M10 in order to gain better high ISO IQ and easier use for my 2 favorite lenses (right) now, ie Noctilux 50 and Summilux 75 (I use the a lot to shoot pictures of my 6 week old daughter) I like the way the CL handles, and wonder if another solution would not be to buy one for use with those lenses : I don't mind the crop factor for this, compact size is nice to take it with the M, and the EVF looks pretty good (although in my view nothing beats the M OVF as a window to the world and frame as I want - but to focus difficult lenses, EVF seems nice...). Has anyone tried the Noct / CL combo, or at least the manual focus capabilities ? Thanks for sharing your experience and thoughts Didier
  7. Dear all, how does the CL (JPEG / RAW) compare to M(240), to M10 and to SL regarding high-iso picture quality ? has anyone pictures ? thanks Didier
  8. It's well documented that the M240 is not able to go past 8 seconds shutter duration when set at ISO 800 and further which makes successful Milky Way type of pictures very difficult (standard being something like 30 seconds at ISO 1600 at f2). Well after some searching today I found a post where a guy had discovered that using the M set on auto ISO and in continuous shoot mode when set on bulb he could get 60 seconds. However even when auto ISO high limit was set at 3600 ISO the exposure turned out at 800 ISO the camera not shifting the the highest ISO in the auto setting. Anyway after some experimentation I found that if I took a shot first in A shutter mode at ISO 1600 and then go back to auto ISO it would still use 1600 since auto ISO uses the last used ISO when set to bulb. So with this I was able to get and exposure of 60 seconds at 1600 ISO when ISO is in auto, shutter set to B and in continuous shot C. Recap Set auto ISO upper limit to 1600 or above Set ISO to 1600 and take a picture Set ISO to auto Set shutter to B Set shoot mode to C Take a shot and hold down the shutter button After 60 secs it will automatically close the shutter Of course in the real world you would use a cable release and make the necessary exposure time, say 30 seconds for the Milky Way at f2 Now I just have to find somewhere to shoot the Milky Way which is not easy when you live in Shanghai :-)
  9. Guest

    Illuminated

    Leica T + 50mm f/1.4 Summilux-M ASPH ISO 400, f1.4, 1/160 "Illuminated Humans"
  10. Dear M8 users, as a true fan of my little camera and an avid reader of M8 related discussions and reviews I have stumbled upon negative comments regarding the high ISO performance numerous times. Mostly they go along the lines of "don't go above 160/320/640, as it becomes really unusable", "looks like my webcam", "terrible ISO performance" etc. I think it is time to dedicate a thread showing those horrible images at higher ISO... So that people looking for a M8 know what they can expect (and others might finally stop shooting high ISO images, cause they won't get any good results at all) My rules: - I said HIGH ISO, so no images below 1250 (have a look at the flickr M8 mid to high iso group, haha) - noise reduction (luminance should be mentioned, color is OK) - used raw converter should be mentioned - ISO value readily visible would be really useful - motive doesn't have to be mindblowing, as this thread is really about ISO performance To evaluate the ISO values when pushing in post I suggest the following table: ISO | f-stops above ISO160 1250 | 3.0 1800 | 3.5 2500 | 4.0 3500 | 4.5 5000 | 5.0 I know that there will be some noise and some reduction of dynamic range and it might be problematic to print at 3 by 2 miles, but let's see what you come up with. To start with I show some images that were deliberately underexposed and then pushed in LR 5.7, no luminance noise reduction, color noise as necessary, slight sharpening, own color profile. All images were recorded at base ISO 160 with the 14bit RAW mode. PS: My monitors are crappy, ancient and uncalibrated, so have mercy if the colors are wonky Both don't even show the same colors. I prefer the left one... (Fujitsu Siemens B17-2 x 2)
  11. The New Page 25 in the Worlds (Possibly) Longest Camera Review (Leica M9 and Leica M Monochrom) at overgaard.dk : "Walter Pretorius interviews NYPD officer John Botte" "Get a camera, get a lens, get film or a memory card and just go out there and shoot. That’s it. Experiment! Don’t worry about what anybody thinks and don’t concern yourself with seeking approval or notoriety for your photographs." Enjoy!
  12. I jsut received an email from the forum advertising Denoise software. I was just curious if anyone has used this product and what their impression is. It is certainly affordable at $35 and I would like to use it on some older files.
  13. Here is some comparison I made between Leica M 240 and M9 for a night photo made at ISO 200, 1250 and 3200-2500. Enjoy ! Leica M (type240) vs Leica M9 – Night Landscape Photos Comparison
  14. Okay, Leicaphiles. you've gotten the new firmware update. You've had enough time to feel pretty confident the high ISO performance is improved. I happened to take a series of shots of the same scene directly before and after the update and posted some 100% crops to test this out. Is it a Solms miracle? The L-Camera-Placebo-Effect? Leica M8 June 2011 Firmware – before/after | Leica BOSS You be the judge. (And please... I traded in my camera testing laboratory for a flat screen. This is more reflective of real world shooting than DxO labs... if shots of beer bottles and NyQuil counts as "real world)
  15. I recently made a picture, while I still had the camera in the settings of an earlier eveing shot: at 1250 A. It is 1/8000 and F 4 or so. Overcast, daylight I was midday. I expected the picture to be worthless. But in fact it looks very very good... No grain, sharp, almost a 160 A picture! And here is a 100 % crop from the area I focussed. Tack sharp (as the Summicrom 50 is). Also here I hesitate - don't see more than a hint in the form of the common digital artifacts exept some digital grain in the grays. Is that because it is actually overexposed? (the shutter squeezed out a 1/8000 sec, so might have needed even less). This looks is better than 640 A imho. Has anyone tried overexposing systematically with say +1 EV or more? I would love to see the EXIF info but my Cornerfix version (Mac) does not help me too much on the data. Curious albert
  16. After the product presentation yesterday I spoke briefly with Stefan Daniel, the head of Leica's product management division, about a number of things including the decision to limit the M9 to ISO 2500 and the micro 4/3 format. A transcript is on my blog. Again, thanks to everyone who suggested questions. I couldn't ask everything but I hope you find his answers interesting.
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