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Showing results for tags 'film'.
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I just got a brand new MP (manufactured July 2025) and the vertical alignment is slightly off. The dealer offered to exchange it but they don't have a replacement on hand and will have to wait for Wetzlar (unfortunately with no timeframe). I know the vertical alignment is just behind the small screw on the front. Does anyone know if the recent MPs require a special tool for the vertical alignment like some of the other film Ms such as the M6 do? Or is it just a 2mm hex like the horizontal adjustment? -
I'll be visiting Paris in September with my MP. To save space in my luggage and avoid airport X-ray machines, I'd prefer to buy film in Paris, shoot it, and have it developed there. I emailed the Leica Rive Gauche store to ask if they sell film. They don't, except for the new Leica Monopan 50 film when it arrives, maybe in August. But that's too slow a film for my needs. So, can any of you familiar with Paris recommend a place where I can buy Ilford films, like FP4 and HP5? Also, is there a lab in Paris that provides a relatively quick turnaround (three or four days) for developing negatives and providing scans? Thanks for any help.
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Taken a while ago but just added to my street photography portfolio on my website at https://gwpics.myportfolio.com/street-photography. Leica M7 + 50mm Summicron-M f2 Gerry
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Cinestill CS Negs Basically presets combination, im used to NLP… but sometimes im away from my laptop for a while.. now the ipad might be handy.. but this is far from professional tools.. only more manual adjustments, used in LR mobile i did for fun, here’s ektar
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Taken in the pedestrianised cutural quarter in the centre of Southampton. Leica M7 + 35mm Summarit f2.5 with Kodak Tri-X which was lab processed and then scanned using a Plustek 8200i and Silverfast software. Cropped from about one-third of original and post-processed using Lightroom Classic. Gerry
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Hi everybody, I’m a computer science engineer who has been working, as a hobby, the last three years in a new, more precise, way of recreating film look with digital cameras. I’m posting here for feedback, in case anybody of you would like to test the application (with the M9) and show the results and your opinions. I usually shoot film photography but also I like the comfort of digital. The problem is that I’ve never been happy with existing film emulations. Mainly because of that, because they are emulations instead of simulations. METHOD USED For doing so, instead of doing a generic conversion for every camera, I’ve done a specialised conversion for the Leica M9 based on simulating the chemical process and spectrum response, instead of applying curves and other stuff. In the end, I thought, if analog and digital are just two instruments which capture light, I thought, maybe is there any mathematical conversion to make the digital to look like film? I mean, if I take the same photo with analog and digital, under exact same conditions (light / aperture / exposition /…) could I make them look exactly the same? It’s based on chemical simulation and the Leica M9’s response to spectrum. Then LUTs and finally some extra calibration. I think that it could be improved because I’ve used home made or open source tools for calibrating and so on, which are far from perfect. EXAMPLES (Analog vs Converted Digital) Following are some examples of Superia 200 and TriX 400. Click in each photo to see high resolution. DNGs shoots taken with Leica M9 (left), and FILM shoots taken with Minolta CLE (right) at same conditions (aperture / exposition / ISO). All shoots taken with Zeiss Biogon T* ZM 35mm f/2. The examples show several photos, which are the following: +------------------------+------------------------+ | original DNG | | +------------------------+------------------------+ | converted DNG | scanned FILM | +------------------------+------------------------+ | developed DNG | developed FILM | +------------------------+------------------------+ For the generated simulated negative TIFF file and the scanned TIFF file I’ve applied exactly the same develop parameters. TriX 400 - 1 TriX 400 - 2 TriX 400 - 3 Superia 200 - 1 Superia 200 - 2 Superia 200 - 3 Superia 200 - 4 Superia 200 - 5 Superia 200 - 6 CONCLUSIONS Tonal range - Biggest difference between digital and film Dynamic range - Digital is faaar more detailed in the blacks, film never gets burnt, meanwhile digital gets burn quite fast. Film has more microcontrast, it's more sharpen Digital is a little bit more contrast after developing, I imagine it’s because it reach white level faster, then, when doing autolevels with the developing program, as a result, it’s a more contrast image. DOWNLOAD I'm having a console application ready, if interest is shown it will be ready quite soon! CAVEHEATS / LIMITATIONS The program only accept DNG, because I need all the light captured by the camera, instead of a JPG already converted and really dependent on camera self made adjustments. The program only accepts photos taken at the ISO of the certain film that is gonna be used. For example, for TriX400 it will accept only Leica M9 DNGs at 400 ISO. I’ve also done tests with ISO 200 and 800, and the results were quite satisfactory but, for complexity reasons, I prefer to let it be native film ISO for the moment. Highlights are not always correct, and sometimes they look weird, mainly in color film. This is due to bayer sensor pattern and its different intensity response (for Red, Green and Blue channels). FUTURE (& PAST) WORK Leica M10-D Leica M8.2 THANKS Super thanks to the creator of LibRaw, a wonderful C++ library for working with RAW files. Any questions I’m open to answer 🙂 Best regards everybody. Tomás AKA “Camalogica”- 176 replies
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I'm planning on purchasing a polarizer from URTH (https://urth.co/products/cpl-polarizing-filter-plus) but I am unsure of whether or not I will be able to set the filter rotation correctly on my M3. I had contacted URTH themselves and they said to set the orientation correctly by looking through the filter before attaching to the lens, I though this sounded impractical. As the M3 does not have any way of seeing through the taking lens, how should I use a polarizer and/or other filters that rely on achieving the correct orientation to produce the desired affect. -
https://youtu.be/2wmkHDrR2cc?si=dOUXF1HybtbAo3U9
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So, my M3 arrived on Christmas Eve and now has a roll of HP5+ in it. Still working on the settings to cope with the light and lack of meter (using iPhone Light Meter App for now). Just means taking two shots all the time as I realise I've checked something but not made any changes! A real change from my previous SLR/DSLRs - things are now always in focus, except in the little square. I know practice is the best form of learning, and I'm doing a lot of that. But does anyone have any recommendations for books on rangefinder technique? -
Greetings all! This past December I decided to dive into film photography for the first time. I bought a new Leica MP and used 35mm summicron ASPH (v5). I took the camera and a number of different film stocks on a family trip to Taiwan. What a joy to use! I finally understand what others have said with regards to the pleasure of using these cameras, regardless of how the photos come out. A few things I learned: I tended to underexpose and need to get a better handle on the exposure meter. As a wearer of glasses, the 35mm framelines at 0.72x magnification can, at times, be challenging to see. I also found myself wanting to frame tighter (50mm Summilux is on the wishlist!!). I need to get better at ensuring that the camera is level - I had to straighten a few photos in post. I need to work on white balance and editing in post. Either way, I'm really excited to continue down this path and looking forward to more participation in this forum! Here are a few photos from the trip:
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This might be a stupid question and many have been answered in some form before. I have an M6 TTL 0.72 and a Summicron 35 f2 ASPH, both in Chrome. First off, I love film and shooting, but other things have over the past few years have taken more of my time. I typically only pull out the M6 during extended vacations/travel, which seems to be once every 2 years. For everyday photos, we pull out the cheap-o digital point and shoot. Film is great, but scanning is a hassle (used to be fun). Also film is getting harder to find locally. I feel like the anyone with a good point and shoot can take decent photos these days and shooting film has really lost it's uniqueness (at least for me). I'd love to get a M9, but I have no budget for it. I'm a bit out of the loop and just noticed the Fuji X-Pro 1. I was thinking about getting rid of the M6 body and picking up the X-Pro 1. So, I guess my question is, is it worth it to keep the body, or get rid of both the body and lens and just go with the X-Pro 1. Will the Summicron be that much better than the lens that comes with the X-Pro 1? I have a number of people interested in the M6 and lens. Should I sell now while I can or hang on to it in case I ever get psyched about film again? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Wilsberg: Doktorspiele TV-Film, D 2009 R: H.G. Bücking Erstsendung: ZDF 25.04.2009 Titel der Buchvorlage: Wilsberg und der tote Professor In der Eingangsszene fotografiert der Privatdetektiv Wilsberg bei einer Observation mit einer Digilux3 einen Mord. Auslösegeräusch und Spiegelschlag wurden aber nachsyncronisiert Der Fernsehfilm zitiert ausserdem karikierend Filmklassiker wie Blow up und Der unsichtbare Dritte.
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We're happy to announce that we'll be hosting a monthly social meet up and photo walk, named Bristol Leica Social. The first meeting will be on April 1st, 2017, and on the first Saturday of every month thereafter. We'll be meeting at the store on Baldwin St (3 alliance house, Baldwin St, BS1 1SA) at 9am. We'll be heading out from the store in self picked groups to take images around the centre, aiming to meet at a café at 12 noon to compare images and discuss all things Leica. The shop will be open as usual, and we will be here as usual to have a chat or demo any items (depending on stock availability) There is no cost to attend, but attendees are encouraged to bring money for any refreshments required as you walk around. Leica users of all kinds are welcome, and so are those who don't own a Leica but wish to learn more about the brand and the beautiful products that they offer. For current updates and more information, we have an event page on our Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/lcebristol/.
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https://vimeo.com/208254533 A short video clip I made on SL with Summarit 35/2.4 in L-log and graded in FCP X as Arri Log C footage. Wanted to finally see what can be done with those L-log files. Not bad results, looks really promising. Anyone here has any experience with making films on SL? How do you capture the footage, how do you colour grade later? What LUT do you use? I've looked at buying some extra LUT loaders and use some custom LUTs but decided that it's not really needed. I can work with what's in the Apple Final Cut Pro X quite effectively it seems. How about you?
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Two small Berber childen, one shoeless, and wearing dirty dresses sit outside their cave home in Tunisia. This is from 2002 when North Africa was a safer place to visit. I wonder where they are now? I used a Leica M6 and I think this was taken using the 50mm Summicron f2. Gerry
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Hi everyone, i own both a m2 and a m4p. on all the rolls that ive shot on both cameras, ive noticed this weird flaring across the frame. i dont know if it is a light leak or if it could possibly be my lens. the m2 definately hasnt been cla'ed in a while but the m4p i just bought from a shop and has been cla'ed. i use a canon 50 1.4ltm and a voigtlander 35 1.4sc, but its the newer of the two lenses. Ive noticed that the rolls of film occasionally have flare across the top of the frame usually spanning from the top right to 3/4 of the way to the left but only in some frames. in the m2, this light streak crosses frames on the flim, whereas on the m4p, it doesnt but the flaring seems to be in the same position ass the m2 (top right to the left). i suspect that my canon 50 1.4 may be the issue however im not sure if a lens is even capable of that kind of effect. otherwise i think i may have a light leak but i dont think id get a leak in both cameras at the same spot. the attached photo is from the m4p. can anyone shed some light on the matter
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Unterwegs bei schönem Wetter in der Eifel. M7 + sumicron50 + Kodak Portra160. Belichtet wie 100ASA, scan von Meinfilmlab. Bild wurde von mir verkleinert, wahrscheinlich sehr stümperhaft.
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Hi! Today I received a batch of negatives which I had processed and scanned at a dedicated b/w lab. Usually I do the scanning myself, but this time I needed some quick results to check the technical validity of some vintage cameras and I had little spare time available. These scans are low res jpeg and only substitute for contacts. I am thinking of re-entering the dark abodes of home-developing, especially after reviewing the result that I want to query this forum about. Seven rolls of TriX, TMax and HP5 from diffeent cameras (M3, IIIf, M7) came out fine, but one roll of film (TMax) from a 1934 IID shows peculiar scratches not typical of ones that I have seen or produced myself before. Since this is the only roll of film from this newly acquired camera that I have available (it is currently away for a focusing CLA), I would be particularly interested in whether it is a problem that might be related to the camera or whether it is related to film handling pre/during/post development, which I find more likely. Since I bought the camera from a respected dealer, he should be noticed of any problems soon as possible. The scratches start at #25 and continue until #36A, where the scratch line tapers off into the perforation. It is not a strictly parallel scratch like ones I have seen from damaged back plates or sloppy enveloping/ rolling and it is not continuous for all the way. I will post three example images. I hope diagnosis can be made from forum resolution. (1): #29, Inadvertent picture of my lens cap (idiot me ) (2): #32, Oyster bed, 300 million years old, today grounding a cottage, situated 600 Km from the nearest shoreline (3): #35, Casino, Wiesbaden, Germany Has anybody seen a scratch configuration like this before? Thanks! Kind regards, Mathias EDIT: By the way, the scratches are on the emulsion side.
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Misaligned images on II(D) negatives
schattenundlicht posted a topic in Leica Collectors & Historica
Could anybody comment on possible causes/ remedies for what I see on all films from a newly acquired 1932 II (D)? The film is exposed into the lower (in camera upper) sprocket holes and the image is slightly misrotated. This happened on all films so far. I cut all film leaders with my template as usual. I did not encounter any problems while loading. I did exactly according to the old Leica instructions (as I always do with my other LTMs). Any suggestions? Thanks! Mathias
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I'm selling my 21mm Super Angulon f/4 M mount in favor of something a little more "practical". While in Cuba earlier this year, I found myself using the Zeiss 28mm f/2.8 on my Contax G2 quite a bit but for my next few trips, I'll bring only a couple of M bodies (M7 & Typ 246). I really love the results that I got out of my Zeiss and am wondering if I should go with another Zeiss (25mm f/2.8 or 28mm f/2.8) OR a new-ish 28mm Elmarit ASPH. So my two questions are "is the Elmarit ASPH quality worth more than double the price of a used Zeiss 25mm or 28mm?" and "In order to keep my work consistent, should I just stick with the Zeiss 28mm f/2.8 for the way it renders colors?" Examples of my work in Cuba with the 28mm f/2.8 on the Contax G2 below. Both photos with Portra 400.
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A local street scene seen whilst out yesterday testing my 'new' 21-35mm Vario Elmar-R on my R5 (loaded with HP5+).
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Leica M7 + 35mm Summarit f2.5. Fuji Neopan 400CN. Southampton, England 2016 Gerry
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Because of the covid-19 lockdown I am unable to go out on to the streets to photograph, not that there are any people around. I am therefore still working through my archives, and came across this image from Paris in 2002. Taken with a Leica M6, 50mm Summicron f2 and using Kodak T400CN film (which I used to love!). I hope you like it. I have also been revamping my web site using Adobe Portfolio, which is part of the Lightroom/Photoshop package, and like the results so far, although it is a work in progress. Take a look here Gerry
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This was taken before the coronavirus problems we now all have. Leica M7 + Fuji Neopan T400CN film commercially processed and home scanned. Gerry
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Hi, I'm new to Leica and I'm looking into small-ish lens for everyday use. Which one of these (assuming all are in good condition) would you recommend? Prices are: Summicron €389 (little haze) Elmar €499 Modern Elmar-M €660 Leaning towards the modern Elmar-M but I have zero experience with leica lenses. Thank you!
