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Found 8 results

  1. I am successfully developing at home C-41 color negative (and XP2 B&W) and E-6 based slide films using the Arista development packs. After I started recently working with the E-6 process, a few differences compared to C-41 became obvious to me regarding the recommended steps in the development procedures: 1. E-6 requires washing with water between first developer and color developer, and then afterwards before adding Blix. C-41 has no water wash in between developer and Blix addition - why? Would it be better to add a washing step in the C-41 process similar to the E-6 process to avoid contamination of Blix and stop the developer? Or is there a reason that this shouldn't be done? 2. E-6 has no final stabilizer wash as it is done in the C-41 process. I understood from earlier discussions in this forum that the stabilizer acts to preserve the color negative - any specific reason why this is not needed with slide film? 3. Is there a difference in oxidation stability of the developer used in C-41 and the two developers used in E-6? Are both color developers in C-41 and E-6 the same?
  2. Could anybody comment on possible causes/ remedies for what I see on all films from a newly acquired 1932 II (D)? The film is exposed into the lower (in camera upper) sprocket holes and the image is slightly misrotated. This happened on all films so far. I cut all film leaders with my template as usual. I did not encounter any problems while loading. I did exactly according to the old Leica instructions (as I always do with my other LTMs). Any suggestions? Thanks! Mathias
  3. Hi! Today I received a batch of negatives which I had processed and scanned at a dedicated b/w lab. Usually I do the scanning myself, but this time I needed some quick results to check the technical validity of some vintage cameras and I had little spare time available. These scans are low res jpeg and only substitute for contacts. I am thinking of re-entering the dark abodes of home-developing, especially after reviewing the result that I want to query this forum about. Seven rolls of TriX, TMax and HP5 from diffeent cameras (M3, IIIf, M7) came out fine, but one roll of film (TMax) from a 1934 IID shows peculiar scratches not typical of ones that I have seen or produced myself before. Since this is the only roll of film from this newly acquired camera that I have available (it is currently away for a focusing CLA), I would be particularly interested in whether it is a problem that might be related to the camera or whether it is related to film handling pre/during/post development, which I find more likely. Since I bought the camera from a respected dealer, he should be noticed of any problems soon as possible. The scratches start at #25 and continue until #36A, where the scratch line tapers off into the perforation. It is not a strictly parallel scratch like ones I have seen from damaged back plates or sloppy enveloping/ rolling and it is not continuous for all the way. I will post three example images. I hope diagnosis can be made from forum resolution. (1): #29, Inadvertent picture of my lens cap (idiot me ) (2): #32, Oyster bed, 300 million years old, today grounding a cottage, situated 600 Km from the nearest shoreline (3): #35, Casino, Wiesbaden, Germany Has anybody seen a scratch configuration like this before? Thanks! Kind regards, Mathias EDIT: By the way, the scratches are on the emulsion side.
  4. Hallo Forum, ich bin auf der Suche nach einer Alternative zu dem Photoshop Plugin ColorPerfect, dass gescannte Farbnegative(in meinem Fall lineare tiff's, die roh Daten aus einem ProScan 7200) in positive umwandelt. Das Plugin ermöglicht die Umwandlung für fast jeden Filmtyp usw... Bisher mache ich das mit Lightroom und Ps was bei größeren Mengen wirklich umständlich ist, nicht immer das von mir Gewünschtes Ergebnis liefert und ne Menge Handarbeit erfordert. Deshalb meine Frage: Gibt es Alternativen? Wenn nicht, habt ihr Tipps wie man den Workflow von negativ zu positiv- schneller und qualitativ besser optimieren kann? Habe schon ein Wenig im English sprachigen Leica Forum gelesen... die scheinen aber alle auf ColorPerfect zu schwören (Oder eben Handarbeit...) Danke im Voraus!
  5. Hi all, I would like to hear about your practices and get some advice from you regarding the way I clean my negatives before scanning them. Most of my negatives (both color and B&W) are returned to me from the lab with visible stains of water on the film. Probably they don't do the drying correctly and on top of that the water in my city is very hard (lots of calcium and magnesium). If I scan them as is I get quite large white circles. Recently I have tried to use a glass cleaning cloth and I wash it with a bit of liquid soap. Then I use this wet cloth to clean the top surface of the film (the one that is glossy). This way I have noticed that I can remove the white deposits (water marks) on the film. I wait a few seconds for the film to dry and then scan it. Question 1: How do you guys proceed with your stained negatives? Question 2: Do you think that by proceeding the way I do I am potentially harming my negatives for the long term? Thanks for your replies. Jo
  6. Ich fotogrfiere mit einer analogen Leica MP und möchte Negative scannen, um sie dann digital weiter zu bearbeiten. Dabei soll das Korn möglichst erhalten bleiben. Wer kann mir einen Scanner bis 1000 € empfehlen?
  7. I've never owned a neg scanner I've always had access to either uni equipment or other peoples equipment so I've pretty much taken them for granted. I feel as though now's the time when I should probably be investing in one for myself but I'm not too sure where to start. Using Leica lenses I don't want to lose that quality via the scanner so can someone get me started on what sort of price range I should be looking at and if anyone has any recommendations? Cheers!
  8. Hallo zusammen, Ich moechte einen Scanner kaufen,welcher meine SW-Negative in einer "optimalen" Qualitaet einscannt und digital invertiert. Die Optimale Qualitaet bedeutet fuer mich: keine blosse Archivierung der Negative, sondern eine praktische Verwendung des eingescannten Fotos(wie bei einer Digitalen Kamera). Scan-Service Scannen Dias Negative Fotos APS-Filme Mittelformate; Dienstleistung Digitalisieren Einscannen, Video-Digitalisierung Auf dieser Seite sind sehr viele und auch sehr teure Scanner aufgefuehrt. Ich moechte aber euere Erfahrungen und eure "Favoriten" unter den Negativ Scannern aufgefuehrt bekommen. Meine Preisgrenze geht bis zu 300-400 EUR. Vielen Dank fuer die Antworten und eure Hilfe, Mike
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