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Showing results for tags 'm6'.
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I recently started having an issue with my M6 classic where about half of my flash images were not fully being illuminated by the flash. Only about the left third of the frame was illuminated. I bought another flash, hoping that would fix it but I was still having issues. I contacted DAG and he said that it is an issue with the hot shoe. Although I just got a brand new MP and it’s having the same exact issue. The two flashes I have tested are the Lightpix Labs Q20ii and the Godox TT350N along with the Godox X3N. I am sure that the shutter speed was set to the flash sync icon (1/50th?). Any idea if I am doing something wrong? I have heard these flashes are compatible with the M6 and MP from other people. I find it hard to believe that a brand new MP manufactured less than a month ago would have the exact same issue. Some examples: https://imgur.com/a/6S2q3Co
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Hello to all, I would like to request your help/advice. I currently own and use a Nikon F3, but feel the need for something new to help with street/travel photography. After doing a fair bit of research I have come up with buying either the M5 or the M6ttl. I can't actually go to a store and handle these cameras and I will be buying online, I am drawn to the M5 but the worry is I am buying something bigger than my F3 when I am looking for something less intimidating when on the street? however the shutter dial and viewfinder look like great additions. With the M5 it seems the Shutter speed in the viewfinder would also be useful and perhaps better than the LED's in the M6? Could anybody who owns an M5 post some size comparison photos to give me some idea of what it looks like next to the F3? How Do you find the M6 TTL, LED system? I will be predominantly using a 35mm and 50mm lens to start with. Any help you can offer is greatly appreciated, Thanks ! -
I'm looking to trade up my 35mm Summicron ASPH to a Summilux for my M6. I shoot only film and so I've been craving a slightly faster lens that'll go well with slow film. After some research, I'm torn between all the different types of Summilux's: - Pre-ASPH/Classic (cheaper, prone to flare, prone to focus shift, softer on the edges, and has the classic Leica glow/rendition) - Aspherical (super expensive, a non-option for me) - ASPH (a little cheaper than the FLE, still prone to focus shift, sharper than the Pre-ASPH, still has the classic Leica glow/rendition - not as much as Pre-ASPH though) - ASPH FLE (expensive, no focus shift, really sharp, lots of contrast, more modern Leica look) I'm leaning towards the ASPH and ASPH FLE, and the only reason why I'm leaning towards the ASPH FLE was that the focus shift is mostly eliminated with the floating lens element. However, I kind of like the classic Leica look that the regular ASPH has. I've also read places that focus shift is less prominent in film cameras. Is that really true? Should I just spring for the FLE version?
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During my last couple of trips in colder temperatures I've noticed that once temperatures get slightly cold the light meter of my M6 gets fairly unreliable. Meaning that the little arrows either don't show up at all, are barely visible or simply give me wrong meterings. I'm assuming it has something to do with the cold draining the batteries. But the temperatures I was in weren't exactly "freezing" - mostly between 0 and 15 Celcius (32 and 59 Fahrenheit) - so I'm not sure. Is this a common issue? Is there a simple fix? Maybe a battery thats more resistant to cold temperatures? Any help would be appreciated! -
Hi - with apols for a bag question, how is the Hadley small pro for a film M and 35 summicron? I have a (basic) Hadley small but don’t yet have the camera so can’t confirm fit. I know if I put my SL 601 in there with a Zeiss ZM then it bulges the bag/doesn’t really fit. I tend to use my Billingham bags to store my kit at home and use eg Thinktank for the SL when out and about (both for size and convenience as well as more common looking). Does the film M combo fit? If not, what do folks use? Thanks.
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Hello everyone. I have an issue with my M6 TTL. Whenever I turn shutter speed dial to 1/500 my light meter stops working but immediately after switching to different setting (for example 1/1000 or 1/250) it turns back on. After taking the camera apart I found out that the problem is the contact point between the light meter and the shutter speed dial. On the gold plated copper ring (or gold plated brass ring) there is a little scratch that I assume is causing the issue. See attached picture. I can see that there are these little metal "forks" on the right side on the picture that are being dragged on that yellow ring. Those metal forks and the yellow ring is probably the contact point between the light meter and the shuter speed dial. Those forks probably scratched the yellow ring what resulted in that black mark on the picture. My questions: 1. Does anyone here know what material is this yellow ring made of? Is it indeed gold plated copper/gold plated brass? If so then the point of it would be to conduct electricity... 2. Does anyone know if applying "gold conductive paint" over the scratched point would fix the issue? I imagine the paint would need to be hard after application, otherwise it would be quickly scratched back... 3. Does anyone know any repair shops that offer replacement parts where I could get that yellow ring and replace it for new one?
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Hi All, I'm getting into the world of film photography, and my friends recommended looking into the M6 range. Despite spending hours researching, I have to admit I'm quite overwhelmed by the sheer number of M6 variations and options. Could you please point me in the right direction? 1. Which M6 models do you recommend, or are there any I should avoid? 2. Is it worth buying the new reissued M6? 3. Is it OK to buy a used Leica in Japan? 4. Which lens do you recommend? I intend to use the M6 for street photography—I'm considering pairing it with the 35mm F2 ASPH V2. Thank you! Regards, jay
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I’m interested in how the M6 light meter works. I read in the manual that the shutter button is tapped to activate the light meter. Will the light meter also activate if I full press the shutter? Just curious if it can be bypassed or not without removing the battery.
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I've recently purchased an SF20 flash to use with my M6 TTL. I'm trying to make sure I am understanding how to use the TTL setting for the flash properly. After checking the manual it's been pretty unclear, so I have a few questions. 1. As for usage is it as simple as setting the camera+flash to TTL, setting the ISO on the camera, and changing the exposure to your liking? My assumption is the flash will output enough to properly expose for any scene, so just ignore the in camera meter? 2. Setting any settings (aperture/etc) on the flash while in TTL mode only shows you the distance output on the back of the flash, but does it alter the functionality of the flash power output or is it just for reference if you so choose? 3. What other things are worth noting when using flash in TTL mode (or I suppose manual?) It seems that in TTL mode it's mostly just hands off and pretty simple, but I feel like I'm missing something in the process.
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Hello, My M6 silver rewind knob and washers have loosened and fallen off. I am still waiting to hear back from Leica parts coordinator on whether it is a user replaceable part or if service is required. It has been over a month, and I have film inside the camera which I’m unable to extract. In the meantime, I see there’s replacement rewind knobs available online, however I am unsure of where to find the correct washers/spring replacements? Can anyone help with advice on where to find replacement washers, and directions for replacing the knob & washers on my own? Thank you in advance!
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A double whammy festive year of two major M landmarks, the M3 (1954) and M6 (1984). What in your opinion is Leica cooking up for these jubilee anniversaries? I feel a special edition or two coming up…
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Shot film in the 80s and 90s (Olympus and Nikon) then digital only for past 20 years (including SL 601 since it came out) Loaded my Nikon F5 last year and loved shooting film again. Now considering an M. Have read and watched all I can, so understand the differences between the 3 currently available film M cameras but still undecided. Don’t mind black or chrome (and not chasing a BP finish). Have always had a light meter in my camera (apart from shooting my Dad’s old Ilford as a kid) but am attracted to the simplicity of the M-A. Areas I could use advice on include the following please: - quality control issues, not sure if M6 scratching film issue has gone away. - viewfinder, which is best? (My eyesight is ok but am in mid 50s). - reliability over the long term. Anyone else been in my situation? How did you choose? Thanks for your help everyone.
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Hello! I had previously posted some questions about using the Leica SF20 flash with my M6 TTL. I've shot through a few rolls since first getting it and quite liked the results (and experimenting a bit!) However, on my latest roll when trying to use the flash I can't seem to get the flash unit to fire in any mode while on camera. I... - Turned off the body - Attached the flash to the hot-shoe - Turned on the body to flash sync speed (or slower) - Turned on the SF20 to "TTL" mode, and tap the soft shutter on the M6 and the LCD reads out "400 iso" When trying to take a photo and looking through the viewfinder I see the flash symbol (it's solid) on the right hand side, and when taking a photo it never flashes/blinks/etc. From the M6 manual I assume _something_ should occur with the indicator, and the flash should fire. I've checked the hot-shoe contacts and it all seems fine. I haven't tried swapping out M6 batteries yet, or flash batteries because it fires on tests just fine, and my meter workout without issue. Is there anything else I should check or try out? I was able to test the SF20 on a friend's Fujifilm and it fired without issue in "auto" mode. I tried manual/auto and it didn't do anything either. Very odd!
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Hello! I was curious what most folks use to clean their M6 bodies (isopropyl, metal varnish, etc) ? It's in great shape, but around the shutter dial and in the hotshoe there is some grime/dirt build up. There is also some slight dirt (it looks like?) under where the advance lever is. It's only able to be seen in the right light and doesn't just rub off.
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Noticed this small thing on my RF patch today. (Bottom right) Camera is being used and transported a lot but has not been dropped. Tried moving the Frame selector switch but it doesnt affect the little spot. Focus and general function of the Camera seems to be fine. I hope somebody can provide some calming insights. Just sold my M3 which had issues all the time & am slightly paranoid my m6 is going to be a diva as well.
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- nudeblack&white
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Bootsbauer_04_Tonung - Kopie (2) - Kopie.jpg
rosewood posted a gallery image in Members Albums Category
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© rosewood
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From the album: Traffic & Transportation II
© Thomas R. Dietrich
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Roughly one in six/ten photos shows significant flare (shooting with a Summicron 50mm f2) I've checked the lens and body internals, nothing appears wrong. Is this normal? Problem with lens or body?
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Hi, I am trying to replace the film rewind crank, and I cannot loosen the screw underneath the flip-out handle. Is there a trick to doing it? Or is it more complicated than just removing the screw? Thank you.
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Hat schon mal jemand ungregelmäßig auftretende Abstände zwischen den Einzelbildern beobachtet? Hans
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my early m6(leitz) had a lightmeter problem when exposure correctly, the both LED's not lit, it doesn't metter the use but i notice this situation is not common, i don't know is there anyone had same problem as mine, and wants to know is this a factory setting or it's a broke, thanks a lot
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From Blind magazine, here's an interesting essay with photos - https://www.blind-magazine.com/stories/welcome-to-the-leica-world/
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Had a roll back off my M6 from the developers and they’d made a note of light leaks on some frames. Definitely not on all of them, it is quite random. Someone has suggested that it’s shutter capping, anyone else throw out an opinion as to the issue?
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I have just acquired a beautiful M6 (see below) from Andy at Classic Cameras in London. He described it as “mint” and it doesn’t look as though it has ever been used. Despite its age it is unmarked and was serviced by Leica Germany prior to sale. First time I have dealt with Andy who was very helpful, very knowledgeable, and a great guy to talk to. I have known of his shop for years and he has supplied Leicas to all the greats. I would recommend contacting him, a sheer pleasure to deal with (everything done by phone in my case) if there is anything you are looking for. Gerry
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