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Found 16 results

  1. Hello- I just got my M4-2 back from a repair service for this light leak/shutter issue - a band across the top. I got my first roll back, and 95% of the frames didn't have it - but the last few frames did. None of the frames with my 35mm Summicron had it, only the last few with a 50mm Canon 1.4 LTM with an adapter. Is there any chance this is a lens/adapter issue, or is the shutter still the culprit? Band happend when shot into the direct sun at 1000th, sun behind be at 100th; and also in muted indoor light around 250th. Cheers
  2. Hi everyone, i own both a m2 and a m4p. on all the rolls that ive shot on both cameras, ive noticed this weird flaring across the frame. i dont know if it is a light leak or if it could possibly be my lens. the m2 definately hasnt been cla'ed in a while but the m4p i just bought from a shop and has been cla'ed. i use a canon 50 1.4ltm and a voigtlander 35 1.4sc, but its the newer of the two lenses. Ive noticed that the rolls of film occasionally have flare across the top of the frame usually spanning from the top right to 3/4 of the way to the left but only in some frames. in the m2, this light streak crosses frames on the flim, whereas on the m4p, it doesnt but the flaring seems to be in the same position ass the m2 (top right to the left). i suspect that my canon 50 1.4 may be the issue however im not sure if a lens is even capable of that kind of effect. otherwise i think i may have a light leak but i dont think id get a leak in both cameras at the same spot. the attached photo is from the m4p. can anyone shed some light on the matter
  3. Hello, I know I am pushing my camera sensor and lens to the limit by almost shooting straight into the sun. I do this because I want to achieve a cinematic effect. On my last shoot however I noticed a very strange flare issue: in the attached two photos there is a clear band on the top of the photo that is not affected by the lens flare. Has anyone seen this behaviour before? What could be the reason. I would prefer to have the flair everywhere consistently. Is this a sensor defect? Or maybe due to the 50 mm hood I use on the lens (although I doubt this can explain the rectangular nature of the artefact). I look forward to hearing from you, regards, michel
  4. Armed with my recently acquired R5, 35mm Elmarit-R III and a roll of Neopan I took a stroll around our local Country Park. As usual with b&w film, I had a yellow filter (in the case a B+W medium yellow) fitted. Bright sun out of frame fairly high to the left. The lens hood was extended but judging by this result, it is not long enough!
  5. Justalex

    Leica S Image Problems

    I was wondering if anyone else was experiencing the following problems with their Leica S. Flare I've noticed what appears to be flare on the bottom right hand side of my images. i took a blank frame and sure enough there is flare. I've had a look inside the camera and can't work out where it's coming from. Any suggestions? Color Artefacts I've also noticed colour artefacts in most of my images. I placed a number of images in photoshop layers and noticed they always occur in the same places. This is not simply caused by high frequencies as they only occur in the places marked by the guides in the attached image. They do however occur at the boundaries of contrast or color. Any suggestions? Thanks Justin
  6. mija1789

    X Vario Hood-induced Flare ?

    As I new (and proud) owner of an X Vario (shame on XVarior and Guytou for getting me the itch ), I am currently experimenting with color rendition, high ISO, controls, ... and I stumbled on this this morning. Just look at the bottom right and it looks like an incidental source of light (there were none) or specular reflection. Sun (hidden by a thin layer of clouds) was above my left shoulder at 90° with respect to the shooting direction. 1/2000 s, f/3.5, ISO 100 at 28 mm The lens hood is the JJC LH-XV, as recommended by Waloszek in his excellent review. So, could this be lens flare or flare induced by the lens hood ? Anyone having already experimented this ? (Of course, I didn't immediately notice that and therefor didn't try without the hood)
  7. Hello everyone, I recently bought a Leitz Focomat II and discovered that when printing from the 60mm Focotar lens that two dark lines forming a triangle appear on either side of my prints. I also noticed that there are four light spots hitting the rim of the lens (these increase in size when you open up the aperture) and 'Im pretty sure this is related to the problem. I'v looked at the enlarger from every angle and checked that things are all in their proper place I have attached images to demonstrate what I'm describing above. You can see one of the dark lines forming a triangle clearly in the sky above the lion's head (the same is mirrored on the other side of the print but harder to see), and there are a couple shots of the light spots hitting the rim of the lens. Could anyone please tell me what might be causing these light flares and how I could fix the problem. All insights are greatly appreciated! Rene
  8. Hello everyone. I tried a search but I haven't exactly found an answer to my question. So here is the thing. For a long time I've been wondering whether to go for 28mm or 35mm – the never-ending question for all photographers Anyway, my mind is now made up to go for the Summicron 28mm. A fantastic lens in every possible way and I really love it's rendering. I am looking for a second hand example and they are fortunately for me readily available on the market. I've seen plenty of talk about Summicron 28's flare and on the opposing side of spectrum are the people who say the Cron 28 is absolutely free of the flare problem. I am talking about the large purple blobs which appear on some shots and they do look like kind of terrible and the lost off contrast is severe. For example read here: Digi•Pixel•Pop . This is not the only source where i've seen such bad flare examples. So obviously I wouldn't want to pay ~4000$/3000€ for a lens with a severe flare problem. According to Leica-Wiki (http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-wiki.en/index.php/28mm_f/2_ASPH_Summicron-M) serial numbers starting with 39xxxxx are potentially the ones with the "problem". The good news: all signs seem to point out that the flare problem (can) exists on the early pre-6 bit serial number samples. So it seems Leica has done some modifications silently in the design along the way. Perhaps there was some change in the coatings and the newer versions are free of the flare problem. Or at least it's not as bad. So my question is this: I would like to know if people have any first hand experience on the early serial number, pre 6 bit coded lenses, and if this particular problem really exists? I am asking for this because there are plenty of available pre 6-bit Summicrons available on the used market and they are usually quite a bit cheaper than the later version. But I am really afraid to pull the trigger if these early serial numbers are more likely to have a flare problem compared to the later versions. Thank you for reading
  9. rodflower

    Tr Elmar 28-35-50mm

    I bought a second hand Tri Elmar 28-35-50 (first version) recently. At the 28 and 35 mm settings the results are superb but at 50 mm, there is a noticeable reduction in contrast in the upper middle of the image which shows up in the final image as though it was lens flare and spoils the image. This is present whether or not I use a hood and is a feature of the lens using both film and digital media. I have rung Leica about this but they didn't recognise any such problems with this lens. I have also looked through all the relevant written material including Erwin Putts book on Leica lenses, and found no mention of this effect although it is so noticeable that it would be immediately obvious to anyone using it. Has anyone else experienced this - or do I have a duff lens?
  10. Hello everyone, I recently bought a Leitz Focomat II and discovered that when printing from the 60mm Focotar lens that two dark lines forming a triangle appear on either side of my prints. I also noticed that there are four light spots hitting the rim of the lens (these increase in size when you open up the aperture) and I'm pretty sure this is related to the problem. I'v looked at the enlarger from every angle and checked that things are all in their proper place I have attached images to demonstrate what I'm describing above. You can see the two dark lines forming a triangle clearly in the sky above the lion's head (the same is mirrored on the other side of the print but harder to see), and there are a couple shots of the light spots hitting the rim of the lens. Could anyone please tell me what might be causing these light flares and how I could fix the problem. All insights are greatly appreciated! Rene
  11. Hello everyone, I recently bought a Leitz Focomat II and discovered that when printing from the 60mm Focotar lens that two dark lines forming a triangle appear on either side of my prints. I also noticed that there are four light spots hitting the rim of the lens (these increase in size when you open up the aperture) and I'm pretty sure this is related to the problem. I'v looked at the enlarger from every angle and checked that things are all in their proper place I have attached images to demonstrate what I'm describing above. You can see the two dark lines forming a triangle clearly in the sky above the lion's head (the same is mirrored on the other side of the print but harder to see), and there are a couple shots of the light spots hitting the rim of the lens. Could anyone please tell me what might be causing these light flares and how I could fix the problem. All insights are greatly appreciated! Rene
  12. blueuser

    Summicron 50 flare

    Hi, I have just purchased a Leica M type 240 with a second hand Summicron 50 with serial 365xxxx. A great combination and a joy to shoot with getting more and more used to the range finder concept. But I have noticed a serious flare issue which ruined some of my shots. In the pics below I have tried to demonstrate the problem: 1. A picture of a lamp, flare is as expected. No UV-filter and F 4.0 http://4.static.img-dpreview.com/files/p/TS560x560~forums/53300312/c338f9ead14548a6bff3c678b7f2a2c0 2. I tilt my camera down to avoid the lamp. There is some flare but still as expected. http://3.static.img-dpreview.com/files/p/TS560x560~forums/53300312/ddbe06c11d29436a844532704ce09580 3. Tilting camera further down and suddenly a burst of flare fill one third of the frame. http://2.static.img-dpreview.com/files/p/TS560x560~forums/53300312/bf7d36550d5c4bdba0ecaad7c5cc7060 I know that this example is a bit extreme, but light from windows did also created this effect. Another problem is that you don't see it when using the range finder. I think the problem is caused by reflections in the lens barrel as in the picture below: http://1.static.img-dpreview.com/files/p/TS560x560~forums/53300312/69bd101a05554be79f9f575f78406cf8 The questions is: Has somebody else experienced this and is is possible to fix it Thanks in advance
  13. Hey Folks, my first post here - yay! I noticed this horizontal bluish flare in the upper right corner with my Summicron 35/2 Asph. I shoot film (M4-P with original clip-on hood and B+W UV or ND Filter) so I can't do a thousand test shots. See the attached testshots. It appears in one or two images per roll. Didn't notice that with other lenses. Anybody experienced the same thing? Any suggestions? Thank you very much! P flickr: www.flickr.com/peertheer
  14. Need some help to identify what can be cause for green flare on both shots? Camera operates well and, no issues on the sensor but when using Voigtlander Nokton 35mm f/1.4 at night ISO 640 1/30 Sec both pictures showed strong flare effect with green light going. No Lens Hood attached. No flares at all during daylight.
  15. pgk

    Light stream

    This may not be to everyone's liking, but I enjoy trying to use lens characteristics in images - this is shot into the light on my M8 with the old 35/2 v.1 and it took several attempts to produce this image.
  16. I have the 28mm f2 Summicron. It is a very nice lens to use on an M7 or M8, but the big boxy lens hood or lens shade is sort of klunky and obscures the lower right corner of the viewfinder to an unpleasant extent. So I am going to begin using it without the hood, but with a UV filer to provide physical protection. My question is: How much will the performance of the lens be affected by not having the hood in place? I know the theories about flare, but in practice how much of a problem do the members think there will be in end results?
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