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Showing results for tags 'leica m3'.
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was ist schöner als ein Tag in Paris zu fotografieren und sich treiben lassen? Eben, deshalb hier mein Reisetagebuch: Leica M3, Summaron 35mm mit Briller, Elmar 90mm, Gossen Sixtomat flash, Billingham und Kodak Double X (entwickelt in HC 110) 1. La gare de Paris-Montparnasse weiteres folgt 🙂
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Hello, I recently acquired two Leica M cameras from an auction. One is a M3, the other is a M2. They both are cosmetically in pretty nice condition, but the viewfinder on each seems to have an issue. The M3 seems like it may have some separation going on and the focusing patch seems pretty dim. The frame lines for the 90mm seems permanently visible as well. The M2 has what looks like dark spot inside the viewfinder—I'm not sure that this could be. When you looks through the viewfinder it still seems bright and the patch is clearly visible. I'm wondering if anyone can help identify the issue and also let me know if you think it can be fixed. Other than the viewfinders, the cameras seems in really great shape. Hopefully a CLA can clear things up, or a recement. Thanks! Ross
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Hi guys, this is my very first post over here after reading it since I've got my M3. I was using it with my friend's Summarit 50, while searching for an optimal lens for me. Finally, I've decided to buy a Voigtlander Nokton 50/1.5. Fortunately, I've managed to get one for a test ride (actual the one, I'll buy, if i do so) and I've experience the following situation with it: when I put it on my camera, it doesn't click. Like if the lens release button (or how is it called officially?) doesn't clicks into the lens. So I can take off the lens of the body without pressing the lens release button. Interesting, though, I can't rotate the lens in the opposite direction without pressing the button. What can I do in that case? The guy has an M6 and 240 and he doesn't have that issue. I've tried to unscrew the button and check it on both lenses, but it seems identically the same, till the last micro mm. Here's a video demonstraing the problem: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/10156939/Video%2007-03-15%2012%2049%2029.mov Thanks alot, guys much love
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Hello, It's my first post on the forum, so a quick introduction: I live in Amsterdam and I'm the very proud owner of an M6 and an M3, the latter recently acquired seemingly in tip-top shape, serial 1 034 xxx. I've discovered a strange issue though, that I've yet to find a reference to on the forum or the web at large: it seems I can wind the shutter and shoot without encountering any resistance well past the frame 40 (where the counter stops). This of course is with 36 positions film loaded properly (Ilford XP2 and HP5+), as the two red dots keep turning until about frame 36-7 or so. After that, the dots no longer turn, but the shutter winds/cocks and shoots without issues, the frame advances to 40 and the stops, and I can still keep going at it. Miffed, I switch to R and rewind the film back into the canister. I can clearly hear the film moving inside, and finally there's a slight tension (but just ever so slight) followed by a much freer, lighter movement of the rewind knob which makes it clear that film's wound all in. Indeed taking out the canister shows it is. This happened twice already with both films I've shot on the camera. What could be happening? My M6 clearly doesn't allow me to keep on winding like a madman, reaching the end of the film prevents the winder to work, lest the film be broken off the canister. My only speculation is that the teeth engaging the sprockets are very slippery and just won't pull the film at some point, preferring to slip. Could this have anything to do with my not winding back the film a little bit during loading, before shooting frames -2 and -1? Please, any thoughts! Kind regards, Radu
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Hi, new poster here!I recently got the chance to buy a Leica M3 Single Stroke body for $511. The body has been recently CLA'd by arguably the best repairman in my country.The thing is, it has its problems. Aside from a few dents and scratches, there's also what I think is separation on the viewfinder (my friend thinks it's de-silvering). When I look through the viewfinder (of course with a lens attached), it is clear and the rangefinder patch is contrasty.Is the camera worth it? Is the black 'separation' thing on the viewfinder repairable? Photos here: https://imgur.com/a/RgdhIF1 -
Hello. I was offered a Leica M3 black paint. The seller refused to give a price buy said he was open to offers. Since I'm not, by any means, an expert, I'm not sure about a good price for it. What would you think would be a fair price for it? I have attached some pictures.
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Paris 1997 Leica M3 + 50mm Summicron f2 and Fuji Neopan 400PR © Gerry Walden/gwpics.com When, oh when, are we going to get Fuji Neopan 400PR back! Gerry
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It was in 1997 when my wife and I first visited New England. I wanted to attend the annual Star Island ‘escape’ of the New Hampshire Society of Photographic Artists, and it was to celebrate our 28th wedding anniversary. Both of us had always wanted to visit the area for the fall colours, so we scraped the money together and did the trip. One of our days was spent travelling the road which was the old route of i95 before it became a multi-lane highway, to discover a little of rural America north of Boston. It turned out to be a fascinating drive with abandoned wood-built hotels, and large empty barns, both of which had died when the traffic deserted the road for the new superhighway. During our travels we came across a car lot selling rusty old heaps of autos which I did not understand why anybody would pay the price, but which I enjoyed enjoyed photographing. Today there is a programme here on cable TV in the UK called “American Pickers” and I understand the American restoration market more, and therefore the old-time autos sat by the roadside. As it was, I was just fascinated to see them and photograph some of them.I was new to Leica having bought my M3 double-stroke about 6 months earlier, and was using Kodak T400CN film so I could get it processed as I went to avoid x-ray problems at the airport. The lens was a beat-up 50mm Summicron f2 because it was what I could afford. I have just been going through the archives, and I particularly like this image. I may be wrong but I reckon the price would now be about 4 times what is shown here.If anybody knows the make and model of the auto, or the location of the car lot I would like to know.Hope you like the image!Gerry
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Continuing my trawl through my archives, I found this from Chinese New Year in London 1998. I had been shooting with my first Leica (a M3) for less than a year at this stage. Film was Fuji Neopan 400 and the lens was an old Summicron 50mm f2. Gerry
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Life is pretty quiet photographically for me at the moment, mostly due to really bad weather with heavy rain which makes street photography almost impossible. This means I am continuing my journey through my archives, and this I had forgotten. It shows a typical English pastime - playing bowls. The white clothes are the standard dress for everyone, and afternoon tea is almost compulsory. English tradition at its best. Leica M3 + 50mm Summicron f2. Ilford 400 Delta. 1997.
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Hello, I was wondering if anyone had any experience with knowing if it is possible to modify a Leica M3 DS eyepiece. I know that SS Leica M3’s have a larger eyepiece area with the DS Leica M3’s containing what appears to be an ‘inner’ smaller metal ring. I was curious if it would be possible to remove this inner ring on a DS so that the eyepiece view is more larger like that of a SS M3. Soon I may be able to purchase a Leica M3 DS example, hence the curiosity. any input greatly appreciated. thankyou for your time everyone.
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In this video I will show you how to load the film in the Leica M2 and Leica M3, the procedure requires a minimum of time and precision but it is not difficult, follow the instructions carefully and you will have no problems. https://youtu.be/7xw2Zk8tjjA
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Hi everyone I'm looking at buying an M3 but was wondering if there are any specific serial numbers I should be looking at and why. I saw this blogpost with the best M3 serial numbers, but this is a very limited batch so I doubt I'll find any of those. Any other (larger) batches I should be looking at?
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Hallo zusammen, da ich mich über meine Neuerwerbung sehr freue, muss ich dies hier kund tun. Ich habe zuletzt etliche Jahre mit einer Leica X1 fotografiert, dann bin ich vor 5 Jahren auf eine M9 umgestiegen. Damit fotografiere ich regelmäßig und es macht mir eine Menge Spaß. Als Erbstück von meinen Eltern (meine Mutter war Fotografin) habe ich eine Leica IIIc (Baujahr 1949) mit einem Summitar (von 1951) 5 cm, 1:2, die sich - damit Objektiv - in einem sehr schönen und voll funktionsfähigen Zustand befindet. Damit habe ich in den letzten Wochen 2 Filme belichtet, um zu sehen, ob ich überhaupt noch analog und jede Automatik fotografieren kann. Es hat funktioniert. Da die Schraubleica nicht wirklich einfach in der Handhabung ist (Sucherfenster und Entfernungsmesser separat) habe ich über die Anschaffung einer M3 oder M2 nachgedacht. Für die M3 spricht, dass Sie über einen besonders großen Fenster verfügt. Für die M2 sprach ihr Aussehen (sehr schlicht - sehr schön) und die Tatsache, dass man mit ihr problemlos ein 35 mm Objektiv nutzen kann. Nun ist es eine M3 - Kauf per Ebay (trotz grundsätzlicher Bedenken) geworden und ich kann meine Leica-Optiken (meistgenutzt: 50 mm) für den Oldtimer nutzen. Ich bin gespannt darauf, sie in der Hand zu halten und den ersten Film zurück zu erhalten. Beste Grüße Dieter M.
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From the album: valparaiso
© @riverasegovia
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From the album: valparaiso
© @riverasegovia
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From the album: Japan with Leica M3
Camera: Leica M3 Lens: NOKTON 35mm f1.2 ASPH VM II Film : ILFORD Delta 400 Pro Shot in Kyoto, Japan© MINOCAME
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LeicaM3 + Summilux 35mm PreASPH + FujicolorC200
Minochage posted a gallery image in Members Albums Category
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From the album: Japan with Leica M3
Camera: Leica M3 Lens: Summilux 35mm (2nd ver.) PreASPH Film: Fujicolor C200 Shot in Arashiyama, Kyoto, Japan© MINOCAME
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I recently was given a Leica M3 and in my first role, the photos appear to have double and triple exposed by accident. Most negatives have no space in-between them and the edges have overlapped. The photos don't overlap the sprocket holes. Has anyone else experienced this or have any suggestions on how to fix it? Or do I just have to get it serviced? Whilst shooting there was no odd feeling whilst winding the film on, it was all very smooth. I did a test with a dud roll of film by setting the camera on Bulb mode, While the shutter was open I drew out the frame onto the negative with a pen, wound the film on, and repeated this until the role was done. In this test, all the photo frame lines came out perfectly and none of them overlapped. I'm baffled as to what occurred in my initial role. Photos are of Glasgow, Scotland
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Hi everyone ! I’m very happy to be part of the family of the Leica now, I just received my very first Leica. I decided to purchased this M4 in a stunning condition. The thing is the next day I realised that was something little bit « strange » just between the flash bulb and the backdoor (check the picture), that there is a part of the top plate looks bent a little, is not huge on the picture but you can notice it and the backdoor is clicking a little bit as well.. Do you think that is normal or it could be an issue? I would appreciate any recommendations Thank y’all !
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Hello everyone! First post – I should warn you that this might be a dumb question, but it's one that I can't seem to find an answer for. Recently, I had an M3 serviced by Youxin Ye (YYe Camera) via the rush option, and it was returned to me quite quickly. At first inspection, everything seemed good. The camera had been experiencing shutter capping, which was no longer an issue, and the rangefinder was clean and adjusted appropriately. The camera itself, a double-stroke with buddha ears, is in pretty nice condition, with almost all of its original vulcanite. More recently, I got my hands on a TTL shutter tester (PulseHPT 3-in-1 Shutter Speed Tester, configured with the light sensor). Based on the shutter tester's readings, the 1/1000, 1/500, and 1/250 speeds are at approximately 1/300, 1/200, and 1/140. All other speeds are accurate, within 1/4EV or less. I've also tested the shutter speed tester with a 500CM and electronically controlled cameras like the Pentax LX, and those cameras do not exhibit the same issue of slow top speeds when used with the shutter tester. I emailed Mr. Ye, and he stated "The speed for a Leica mechanical camera is an approximation, not exact," and that "Even a new Leica MP, due to Leica adjusted speeds in too tight tolerance, we have to readjust the speeds after a few months the camera left the factory, to prevent capping problems." Is it true that the tolerances for the top speeds of Leica cameras, even a brand new one, are this flexible? I thought that adjustment of the shutter speeds, as part of the CLA, is supposed to bring them into spec, not just get it to some degree of 'functional.' Otherwise, what would be the point? (Photos of said camera attached for eye candy)
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I finally bought a mechanical Leica, a camera that I always envied, for its simplicity and especially for its luminous and clear viewfinder. I already own a Leica M7 and a Leica M10, but, as you probably know already, the M7 isn’t exactly a mechanical Leica. I already shot a complete roll of Portra 400 and can hardly wait for the lab to send me the scans. I must confess I don’t master yet the Sunny16 rule (I am working on it) and therefore had to buy a separate lightmeter, which, when taking the shots, I am checking rather often with my iPhone App (myLightMeter) for accuracy (so far so good). I used both a 50mm and 35mm Summicron. Any recommendations on any other lenses to use with this beautiful camera would be appreciated.
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Help me, i have body Leica M3 silver DS, but yellow point faded, i cant see and focus. How to fix it ??? Thank all IMG_8219.heic -
My collection Leica M3 + summicron 50 rigid bought together in 1962 still remains an L-seal and "B" letter on lens mount. From my knowledge this mean Camera and lens likely never open for service since 1991. Box and all original paper still there. but, the problem is the view finder is blackout and show only focus pad and frame line. Do I need to repair or sell this as a original condition? or How about if I send them to Konton for repair and repaint to black, would be better? Anyone knowing about letter "B" on back lens mount? Thank you so much for all helping.
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so, my first leica ever and I am already messing it up )) I got this M3 produced in 1955. just a few weeks ago and it was doing well not doing much in a leather pouch in someones basement. Started shooting with it and fell in love like a girl. Shortly after pulling the camera out of that leather pouch and carrying it around unprotected the vulcanite started to fall apart... Didn't have time to wait for new skin as I am going to the states in two weeks (i live in Croatia) so I just re skinned it myself... few pics... you can see the cracked vulcanite here... Scraped it down... after that comes the removal of old glue... and the temporary new skin... I used this leather for my girlfriends tobacco pouch so now they match... not really sure why I did that... she won't be using this camera )) I wouldn't do this for someone else, I just needed to fix it in a hurry... a lot of small mistakes but here it is... cheers, S
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