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Das letzte angebotene Update für die S006 ist notwendig, wenn man die Objektive an der SL verwenden will. Nur funktionieren einige Objektive nach dem Update (Objektive wurden auch upgedatet) danach weder an der S geschweige denn an der SL. Ich habe versucht: 70 mm, 100mm und Zoom. Nur letzteres funktioniert noch, die beiden anderen sirren nur noch und sind weder scharfzustellen noch auszulösen. Bei der SL kommt eine Fehlermeldung wegen Kommunikationsschwierigkeiten mit dem Objektiv. Ich habe darauf verzichtet, die 35mm, 120 mm und 180 mm upzudaten. Was kann das sein?

Today I finally got around to testing the SF-64 that I purchased 3 weeks ago. In summary: it's great! Seems to deal with every test I tried. A tad large. Caveat: I did not test every possible combination of settings and usage. I only tested the scenarios that I am likely to use: Fill-flash just to pop an almost indiscernible amount of light into shadows on a face - must not look like a flash has been used Indoor shots when there's not enough ambient light to hand-hold safely and there's something to bounce the light from (white ceiling or wall, reflector, umbrella) The SL and this SF64 (and FW 2.0) lets me do these two things easily. I mainly tested Aperture priority but I did test some Manual and Program. Mainly, I was playing with the Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC) to get the right balance of ambient and flash. The SF64 is big but not out of place on the SL / 24-90mm combination. The handling balance is still comfortable. The controls on the back of the SF64 are mainly touch-screen but nice and easy to see and press. It's great that it displays the camera's aperture setting and also the distance range (min to max) that the flash can cover in the current setting. A nice feature is the ability to adjust the FEC on either the flash or in the SL menu. With the FEC now assignable to the favourites menu and a button shortcut, it's easy to change the FEC on either device. If you change it on one, it updates on the other. If you have saved an FEC in your profiles, that becomes the starting point for the FEC whenever you switch the flash on. This Hacienda photo has just a tiny bit of fill flash (FEC = -2). Similar images shot with the flash turned off are somewhat darker inside the funnel of the flower. Sunny afternoon but the flower is mainly lit from behind. 90mm 1/90s f4.0 ISO100 I did a quick comparison with the SF40. While the SF40 functions well for some settings, it tends to over-expose shots where the main subject is close to the flash. And, the FEC range of +2 to -2 is a bit limited for fill-flash. As others have noted, one thing that's not quite working as expected is using Flash with Auto-ISO. As soon as the flash is turned on, the ISO locks in to the lowest number in the Auto-ISO range, in my case ISO100. I guess that the complexity of having the ISO change is too much for the flash TTL algorithm to handle. Others are concerned about this but I prefer setting the ISO to a fixed number for most images, especially when flash is involved as my brain struggles to calculate the probable results of too many changing variables... Regards Peter

... mit M-Bajonett-Auflagemaß - oder: Leica M Anwendung als Systemkamera für Visoflexobjektive - oder: Universelle M-Bajonett Zwischenringe, vergleichbar R-Zwischenringe - oder: Überbrückung der Visoflexdistanz (41mm) Mit der Einführung von Systemkameras mit 'Echtzeit-Bilddarstellung' und Elektronischen Sucher kann bei Bedarf auf das bewährte Visoflexgehäuse mit M-Bajonett verzichtet werden. Um einen ergonomischen, ästhetischen sowie praxisgerechten Zwischenadapter zu realisieren, bietet sich die Anwendung von Adapter und Ringen aus der langlebigen Produktpalette von Ernst Leitz Wetzlar an. Wie schon vorgestellt, folgen ein Dutzend Anwendungsvorschläge zur Überbrückung der Visoflexdistanz (41mm) - wie man es auch in einem Sonderdruck des L.-Informationsdienstes erwarten kann. (Frei nach Anregung durch Herr Stefan Daniel: "Dies müsste man ausprobieren." ! - auf die 'Frage: Funktionieren Visoflex-Objektive?' *) Zwischenring Nr. 1 bis 7 Zwischenadapter mit Schnecke Nr. 8 Zwischenring Nr. 9 * aus Protokoll photokina Fragestunde . 1/3

Running backwards, Drive on continuous medium, Shutter speed priority. 24/90 at 24. Some frames show vignetting, others don't. Thoughts?

Is early days I realise, but I wonder if we could please have a thread devoted to third party lens performance on the SL please. In my case I would be interested in experiences with Zeiss F mount lenses (ZF/.2), particularly the 1.4/55 Otus, 1.4/85 Otus, and 2/135 Apo-Sonnar. But I also have a couple of C/Y lenses. I'm sure there are others here interested, as well as those with Canon and Nikkor glass. If I end up with and SL I will report first hand, but I haven't decided to pull the trigger yet (I had wished for higher resolution and IBIS), but there is a lot in this camera that appeals, including it looking like a good tool for some R glass I have. So, anyone with an SL and experience with third party lenses, please share your experiences. Thanks in advance.

I bought a T lens to use on my SL - the 23/2.0 - but when I attach it I get the message "Lens firmware not supported. Please update firmware." The firmware in my SL is up to date - 1.2. Does the lens have to be updated on a Leica T camera? I hope not. I don't have one, don't know anybody who has one, and the nearest Leica dealer is in Atlanta. Surely there has to be some way around this!

I went to pick up my order at dealership and to my dismay noticed a dust spec inside EVF;IDealer plan to send it back to leica as a defective item. I thought leica has now a grip on QC.

Hi folks, I have a problem with my Leicaflex SL and I'd really appreciate some advice. When I bought it, I put in a Cris adapter with a 386 battery - the meter worked just fine for about 2 weeks, and then just stopped working. Since then, I've tried several fresh 386 batteries with the Cris adapter and no joy with the meter. A google search found some mentions of the Cris adapter not working well with the SL. I really like the option of having a meter in camera, so I'd be very grateful for a solution, based on your experience. Many thanks, Raj

Tag der Offen Tür bei LEICA Sensorreinigung SL / M (240,246) Bei aufgesetztem Objektiv Bajonettring und Deckkappe mit Pinsel von Staub befreien. Sensor anhauchen Die groben Teilchen vorsichtig wegstempeln Spachtel mit Isopropanol tränken, überschüssige Flüssigkeit abklopfen. Spachtel leicht über den Sensor ziehen Event. von den Rändern Schmutz in die Mitte ziehen und dann wegstempeln.

Hamburg Derby Horsejumping on Saturday Last competition (and once again WINNER) and farewell of a famous horse Casall ASK under Rolf- Göran Bengtsson SL with 24-90 at 90 mm ISO 200 1/4000 f4.0

https://vimeo.com/208254533 A short video clip I made on SL with Summarit 35/2.4 in L-log and graded in FCP X as Arri Log C footage. Wanted to finally see what can be done with those L-log files. Not bad results, looks really promising. Anyone here has any experience with making films on SL? How do you capture the footage, how do you colour grade later? What LUT do you use? I've looked at buying some extra LUT loaders and use some custom LUTs but decided that it's not really needed. I can work with what's in the Apple Final Cut Pro X quite effectively it seems. How about you?

The newly released Sigma 14mm f1.8 Art lens is discussed in several threads, but it might be convenient to gather info in one dedicated thread. The lens is available in Nikon and Canon mounts. As a guidance to new/potential buyers, here are some findings after playing with three copies of the lens, all in Nikon mounts. The testing has been tailored for night/star/northern light/etc. photography, i.e., with the deep sky as a major component of the image. In the following I only discuss sharpness across the image when the lenses are set wide open (f1.8) and at near infinity. Other optical qualities are, of course, of importance as well (aberration, astigmatism, coma, etc.), as well as other shooting conditions. As mentioned, three copies of the Sigma lens have been tested, all in Nikon mount, but I guess the results are transferable to Canon mounts as well. The tests are done with Nikon D5 and Leica SL, the latter with two Novoflex Nikon-to-Leica adapters (one manual and one electronic): (0) Yes, even infinity needs accurate focusing! Therefore, forget the infinity marking on the lens (as on most lenses). (1) Set the lens to manual focus; it appears that the focusing is less reliable when the lens is set to auto focus (despite auto focus is not activated by any camera buttons). Don't ask why and I can not prove it, this is a suspicion I have based on the testing. (2) Live view on Nikon D5, at full zoom, is only marginally able to guide correct infinity focus. Using a loupe on the back screen is recommended, possibly needed. (3) Live view on Leica SL, at 10x magnification, is much more accurate than the Nikon live view (nothing new here) and can be trusted regarding infinity focus. Thumbs up for the SL! (4) In my case, the manual Novoflex adapter gives even focus throughout most of the image. This is not the case for the electronic adapter; when the center of the image is in focus, the edges smear, and vice versa. So there are differences in the mount precision. This does not imply/prove that manual Novoflex adapters are more accurate than the electronic one, rather that differences between adapters can be expected. So for accurate infinity focus with non-SL lenses, testing of several adapters might be required (actually, I have two manual Novoflex adapters, with one being a `keeper', the other less so). So adapters can be tricky. (5) Irrespective of the FF body used (Nikon D5 or Leica SL), copies of the Sigma 14mm f1.8 ART at f1.8 show differences regarding edge/corner sharpness when the central part of the image is in focus. Vice versa, when the focus point is set near(er) to the corners, the central part of the image may turn soft. So some copies of the lens do not stand the task. Actually, the excellent SL EVF can be used to judge the lens sharpness across most of the image. Set the focus somewhere in the frame, and 'walk' around in the EVF to check the focus throughout the frame (note that we are talking about focus near infinity). (6) Of the three lenses tested on D5 and SL, the latter with the manual Novoflex adapter, one copy is fine - being sharp across the image with only weak softness in the outmost corners. The lens is sharper than the Nikon 14-25 f2.8G zoom, a highly regarded lens (despite the Sigma is shot at f1.8). One copy is perhaps acceptable, the third copy fails wrt edge/corner sharpness. (7) For all three copies of the lens, optimal sharpness across the image appears to be obtained when the focus is put about 1/3 off the centre of the image. (8) I find accurate, manual focussing somewhat tricky with the lens; very small rotation of the focus ring moves the focus point too far/quickly, so I would prefer a longer focus throw length (but I guess this might influence the lens' autofocus). In conclusion, the new Sigma can be fine, even used wide open at f1.8, but testing is needed... Used on the SL, testing of adapters are also needed... Images will follow after some shooting.

I am having a difficult time with zone focussing for street photography. I am using SL with Zeiss 35mm f1.4 ZM. Initially I tried with f1.4 and changing focus for each shot. While it did give good results, but not fast enough to capture the scene. Next, I tried f8 and f11 at 1/125s and 1/250s with zone focussing...with 1.2m set on the left side (closest distance in focus), which gave me an in-focus distance between 1.2~2.5 m @ f8 and 1.2~3.0 @ f11. Also, tried electronic shutter always on and always off (not much difference to the image, but silent shutter is useful). Then I tried setting infinity scale on the right side @ f8 & f11, but the min focus distance is more than 2.5m. I have two issues: (a) images are not sharp even at 1/250s; and ( how to switch quickly between shallow dof and wide dof quickly? I would appreciate any inputs on what settings seems to work for you. I am new to street photography, and have no experience with RF cameras and quite slow with MF lenses. Finally, will optical VF attachment help for street photography with SL?

Hamburg Eppendorf at night Leica SL with Noctilux 1.0

Gas station in Wetzlar SL + Vario 24-90 zoomed

Hi all, Sometimes when I insert a battery into the charger, after a few moments both LEDs come up flashing rapidly. If I remove the battery and insert it again, all seems to work fine. Is it the battery or the charger? Does it happen sometimes, or it's better to investigate it further? Thank you S.

Hi guys, Three questions. 1) Bad quality in Play mode. Yes, I've searched in the archives and I've selected DNG+(L)JPG, but the image it's still very "pixelated" at mid iso settings, large green or red squares especially in shadows, like a VERY basic, low-res JPG quality. Of course when importing DNGs on the hard drive there is no problem at all, but I wonder if that's really normal...? Any setting could I have messed with? 2) Is there a fast way to return to the center after zooming in and moving the point around the frame? 3) Is there a way to put the Electronic Shutter "on/extended/off" setting in a shortcut key or at least in the Favourite menu? Thank you all S.

Hello, Before I start breaking or bending something, is the old 22228 R-to-M adapter (ie. the one that was originally made for Leicina super8 camera) compatible with M-adapter-L? Thanks S.

Being curious about the noctilux in special moments i went to hannover yesterday and took some pictures "just for the show" at f1.0, until yesterday i did not want to rely to this combination.... further more i used the 28mm Lux (see next picture)