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https://vimeo.com/208254533 A short video clip I made on SL with Summarit 35/2.4 in L-log and graded in FCP X as Arri Log C footage. Wanted to finally see what can be done with those L-log files. Not bad results, looks really promising. Anyone here has any experience with making films on SL? How do you capture the footage, how do you colour grade later? What LUT do you use? I've looked at buying some extra LUT loaders and use some custom LUTs but decided that it's not really needed. I can work with what's in the Apple Final Cut Pro X quite effectively it seems. How about you?
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Hello, Before I start breaking or bending something, is the old 22228 R-to-M adapter (ie. the one that was originally made for Leicina super8 camera) compatible with M-adapter-L? Thanks S.
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Being curious about the noctilux in special moments i went to hannover yesterday and took some pictures "just for the show" at f1.0, until yesterday i did not want to rely to this combination.... further more i used the 28mm Lux (see next picture)
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I noticed that my images when using for example 1/50 shutterspeed with a 50mm Noctilux or even a 50 Summilux result in not the sharpest results. Something which I never encountered with the M series and with Sony A7II (image stabilisation in camera). Now I tend to shoot my SL with a minimum shutter speed of 1/80. Which result in very sharp files... What are your experiences with SL and manual focus M lenses and the shutterspeed? Any best practices or tips are welcome!
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Hi guys, Three questions. 1) Bad quality in Play mode. Yes, I've searched in the archives and I've selected DNG+(L)JPG, but the image it's still very "pixelated" at mid iso settings, large green or red squares especially in shadows, like a VERY basic, low-res JPG quality. Of course when importing DNGs on the hard drive there is no problem at all, but I wonder if that's really normal...? Any setting could I have messed with? 2) Is there a fast way to return to the center after zooming in and moving the point around the frame? 3) Is there a way to put the Electronic Shutter "on/extended/off" setting in a shortcut key or at least in the Favourite menu? Thank you all S.
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Hi all, Sometimes when I insert a battery into the charger, after a few moments both LEDs come up flashing rapidly. If I remove the battery and insert it again, all seems to work fine. Is it the battery or the charger? Does it happen sometimes, or it's better to investigate it further? Thank you S.
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Jetzt da Leica APO-Summicron-SL 1:2/75 ASPH. veröffentlich wurde, darf ich erste Erfahrungen veröffentlichen. Ich durfte es vorab schon einmal ausprobieren und bin schwer begeistert was hier Leica wieder vom Stapel gelassen hat. Meinen ersten Eindruck kann man hier nachlesen. https://norbertwindecker.blogspot.com/2018/01/erfahrungsbericht-test-review-leica-apo.html
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Hello everybody, I’m fairly new still to photography as a hobby, but am an avid Leica SL shooter. I switch between seven different Leica SL and M lenses on my SL. But I’m hoping perhaps SOMEONE can help me figure out why my SL/ 24mm Lux pics are getting purple spots in the center of the photographs. This doesn’t happen with any of my other lenses on the SL. Only with the 24mm LUX, and I actually don’t recall this being an issue when I first bought the 24mm. It seems to be something that only developed after about 4-6 months of owning the lens. Could it need a proper cleaning? It appears clean to the naked eye.
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I am thinking of buying a remote shutter control for SL601. The original is Leica 16070, but I don't like wired type. I just wonder if there is any third party generic remote control (wired/wireless) that can work with SL. The Apps is very unreliable as I always lose contact between iPhone 7 and my SL with FW3.2. Thanks for sharing your experience. Benedict.
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Friends: I know this question might have been asked long time ago about SL2. I did not hear any SL2 announcement at Photokina instead heard about the L Alliance. So does that mean its a good time to buy into this system? if so, is it worth buying the SL now or wait on SL2? I feel SL2 wont be out until next years event for I think right now they want people to invest into this line. I have invested in the M10 line significantly and just dumped all my Canon gear which I used for landscape. I used Canon just so I can be a little careless with my equipment vs M10. If Sigma & Panasonic are going to make lenses for this mount, may be just a may be SL is what i should buy? What are your thoughts, opinions, feedback, gripes... ? Appreciate your response. Don
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I’m interested in getting the latest DJI Ronin-S for stabilising the video footage with my SL. I’m only just starting to research it from the usability and compatibility angle. Have you done more research yourself and can share? Are there any users out there already with the SL?
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mother died at birth-> 3l milk every 4 hours, and it takes just 2-3 minutes to drink (SL, Nocti 50mm at 1.0 ISO 3200 1/50sec)
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My 24-90 SL vario elmarit which I bought new about six months ago, developed an odd mechanical problem: When the lens is extended out to the 90mm focal length the front barrel moves and is quite loose. I have send the lens back to Leica USA and they reported that they send the lens back to Germany for repair (about five weeks ago.) Has anyone else noticed a similar condition or problem?
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Ich möchte mal wieder ein neues Thema lostreten: Festbrennweiten bei der SL. Inzwischen bewegt sie ja etwas bei der SL in Bezug auf Brennweiten. Da die Zoomobjektive doch etwas groß und schwer sind, freut es mich, dass es z.B. Objektive für die SL gibt, die etwas handlicher sind. Ich besitze neben dem 1,4/50 (das halt auch schwer ist) das 2/75 und bin sehr angetan von diesem Objektiv. Wie man hört soll es neben dem 90er noch ein 35er und ein 50er geben. Früher (bei der R) gab es von Leica verschiedene 180er und 250er Brennweiten, die heute noch gerne benutzt werden. Ich nehme auch manchmal Canon-Festbrennweiten mit dem Novoflex-Adapter, das sind aber nun mal keine Leica-Objektive. Ob Leica in dieser Richtung sich mal weiterentwickelt? Um Ratschlägen vorzubeugen: Ich weiß, dass es die TL-Objektive gibt, ich besitze sie. Aber dann hat man wieder nur ca. 10 MP...
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Ich möchte mal wieder ein neues Thema lostreten: Festbrennweiten bei der SL. Inzwischen bewegt sie ja etwas bei der SL in Bezug auf Brennweiten. Da die Zoomobjektive doch etwas groß und schwer sind, freut es mich, dass es z.B. Objektive für die SL gibt, die etwas handlicher sind. Ich besitze neben dem 1,4/50 (das halt auch schwer ist) das 2/75 und bin sehr angetan von diesem Objektiv. Wie man hört soll es neben dem 90er noch ein 35er und ein 50er geben. Früher (bei der R) gab es von Leica verschiedene 180er und 250er Brennweiten, die heute noch gerne benutzt werden. Ich nehme auch manchmal Canon-Festbrennweiten mit dem Novoflex-Adapter, das sind aber nun mal keine Leica-Objektive. Ob Leica in dieser Richtung sich mal weiterentwickelt? Um Ratschlägen vorzubeugen: Ich weiß, dass es die TL-Objektive gibt, ich besitze sie. Aber dann hat man wieder nur ca. 10 MP...
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I am new to this forum, but I am considering the major step of switching my entire AF from Canon to Leica. While I have never shot with the SL, the simplicity and design are really making me want to make the jump. I currently shoot with a 1DX Mk ii, and I have a Sony A7ii with an M Adapter and an M9 as well that I just recently purchase and love it. Has anyone made the same switch or has shot with both and has advice or insight? Thank you and glad to be in the forum. Note: I got the camera for a Safari and it performed well - but haven't used it much since. Mike
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Focal distance (front, focus, back) appears in the OLED when the shutter is half-pressed using the SL 50mm but the same information does not appear using the SL 28-90 or SL 90-280. Firmware has been updated to 3.0. Curious if this is normal or if anyone has an explanation?
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Dear all, I am a happy M(240) owner. I use it a lot, and, since I bought it in 2014, I almost no longer use my film M's. I even sold y M7, rarely use my M3 and M6, and the M4 is collecting dust ! I am happy with the M(240) results, apart from 1) high ISO results (I find colour ok until ISO 1600, B&W until 2500) and 2) the problem with mixed lighting : shooting in artificial light is giving uneven results, and when combined with daylight, it is not reliable. Most of the time I shoot with my 'lux 50, but I love my Noct and recently had my 'lux 75 serviced by Leica. Results are often stunning. I understand the SL is a great tool with those lenses. My wife is pregnant and we expect a little baby in october. I really want a nice tool get thousands of pictures, and high ISO is a criteria! When the M10 was announced, I quickly thought about buying one because of better high iso, better colour results with combined lighting and because of WiFi (getting the SD card out of the camera after unlocking the half-case in PITA), and sell the M(240) at quite a loss. After some thought, and given the recent SL price adjustment, I am wondering if I should not keep my M(240) and buy a SL rather than buying a M10 and sell the M(240). In the long term, it could be not too bad an investment, since I could wait a couple of years before upgrading the M(240) and use the SL with both my Noct and 'lux 75 ! Any thoughts or comments welcome ! Didier Dear all, I am a happy M(240) owner. I use it a lot, and, since I bought it in 2014, I almost no longer use my film M's. I even sold y M7, rarely use my M3 and M6, and the M4 is collecting dust ! I am happy with the M(240) results, apart from 1) high ISO results (I find colour ok until ISO 1600, B&W until 2500) and 2) the problem with mixed lighting : shooting in artificial light is giving uneven results, and when combined with daylight, it is not reliable. Most of the time I shoot with my 'lux 50, but I love my Noct and recently had my 'lux 75 serviced by Leica. Results are often stunning. I understand the SL is a great tool with those lenses. My wife is pregnant and we expect a little baby in october. I really want a nice tool get thousands of pictures, and high ISO is a criteria! When the M10 was announced, I quickly thought about buying one because of better high iso, better colour results with combined lighting and because of WiFi (getting the SD card out of the camera after unlocking the half-case in PITA), and sell the M(240) at quite a loss. After some thought, and given the recent SL price adjustment, I am wondering if I should not keep my M(240) and buy a SL rather than buying a M10 and sell the M(240). In the long term, it could be not too bad an investment, since I could wait a couple of years before upgrading the M(240) and use the SL with both my Noct and 'lux 75 ! Any thoughts or comments welcome ! Didier Dear all, I am a happy M(240) owner. I use it a lot, and, since I bought it in 2014, I almost no longer use my film M's I'va had for years. I even sold y M7, rarely use my M3 and M6, and the M4 is collecting dust ! I am happy with the M(240) results, apart from 1) high ISO results (I find colour ok until ISO 1600, B&W until 2500) and 2) the problem with mixed lighting : shooting in artificial light is giving uneven results, and when combined with daylight, it is not reliable. Most of the time I shoot with my 'lux 50, but I love my Noct and recently had my 'lux 75 serviced by Leica. Results are often stunning. I understand the SL is a great tool with those lenses. My wife is pregnant and we expect a little baby in october. I really want a nice tool get thousands of pictures, and high ISO is a criteria! When the M10 was announced, I quickly thought about buying one because of better high iso, better colour results with combined lighting and because of WiFi (getting the SD card out of the camera after unlocking the half-case in PITA), and sell the M(240) at quite a loss. After some thought, and given the recent SL price adjustment, I am wondering if I should not keep my M(240) and buy a SL rather than buying a M10 and sell the M(240). In the long term, it could be not too bad an investment, since I could wait a couple of years before upgrading the M(240) and use the SL with both my Noct and 'lux 75 ! Any thoughts or comments welcome ! Didier
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The newly released Sigma 14mm f1.8 Art lens is discussed in several threads, but it might be convenient to gather info in one dedicated thread. The lens is available in Nikon and Canon mounts. As a guidance to new/potential buyers, here are some findings after playing with three copies of the lens, all in Nikon mounts. The testing has been tailored for night/star/northern light/etc. photography, i.e., with the deep sky as a major component of the image. In the following I only discuss sharpness across the image when the lenses are set wide open (f1.8) and at near infinity. Other optical qualities are, of course, of importance as well (aberration, astigmatism, coma, etc.), as well as other shooting conditions. As mentioned, three copies of the Sigma lens have been tested, all in Nikon mount, but I guess the results are transferable to Canon mounts as well. The tests are done with Nikon D5 and Leica SL, the latter with two Novoflex Nikon-to-Leica adapters (one manual and one electronic): (0) Yes, even infinity needs accurate focusing! Therefore, forget the infinity marking on the lens (as on most lenses). (1) Set the lens to manual focus; it appears that the focusing is less reliable when the lens is set to auto focus (despite auto focus is not activated by any camera buttons). Don't ask why and I can not prove it, this is a suspicion I have based on the testing. (2) Live view on Nikon D5, at full zoom, is only marginally able to guide correct infinity focus. Using a loupe on the back screen is recommended, possibly needed. (3) Live view on Leica SL, at 10x magnification, is much more accurate than the Nikon live view (nothing new here) and can be trusted regarding infinity focus. Thumbs up for the SL! (4) In my case, the manual Novoflex adapter gives even focus throughout most of the image. This is not the case for the electronic adapter; when the center of the image is in focus, the edges smear, and vice versa. So there are differences in the mount precision. This does not imply/prove that manual Novoflex adapters are more accurate than the electronic one, rather that differences between adapters can be expected. So for accurate infinity focus with non-SL lenses, testing of several adapters might be required (actually, I have two manual Novoflex adapters, with one being a `keeper', the other less so). So adapters can be tricky. (5) Irrespective of the FF body used (Nikon D5 or Leica SL), copies of the Sigma 14mm f1.8 ART at f1.8 show differences regarding edge/corner sharpness when the central part of the image is in focus. Vice versa, when the focus point is set near(er) to the corners, the central part of the image may turn soft. So some copies of the lens do not stand the task. Actually, the excellent SL EVF can be used to judge the lens sharpness across most of the image. Set the focus somewhere in the frame, and 'walk' around in the EVF to check the focus throughout the frame (note that we are talking about focus near infinity). (6) Of the three lenses tested on D5 and SL, the latter with the manual Novoflex adapter, one copy is fine - being sharp across the image with only weak softness in the outmost corners. The lens is sharper than the Nikon 14-25 f2.8G zoom, a highly regarded lens (despite the Sigma is shot at f1.8). One copy is perhaps acceptable, the third copy fails wrt edge/corner sharpness. (7) For all three copies of the lens, optimal sharpness across the image appears to be obtained when the focus is put about 1/3 off the centre of the image. (8) I find accurate, manual focussing somewhat tricky with the lens; very small rotation of the focus ring moves the focus point too far/quickly, so I would prefer a longer focus throw length (but I guess this might influence the lens' autofocus). In conclusion, the new Sigma can be fine, even used wide open at f1.8, but testing is needed... Used on the SL, testing of adapters are also needed... Images will follow after some shooting.
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I'm a professional that shoots tethered 99.9% of the time (with H'blad). I segued to the SL system via the M240 hoping that I could sideline the Hasselblad in favour of the SL because the IQ from the SL is so very good and not every client wants or needs 150mb files. Then I tried Image Shuttle. Oh what a disappointment. It bewilders me how a company such as Leica can seriously expect todays professional photographer can tolerate a tethering software that is so very basic. And this is the same software they expect S shooters to use. Canon tethering software back in the early 2000's was feature packed compared to Image Shuttle! At the very least Image Shuttle requires the ability to override the auto orientation of the camera. If you require the camera to be pointing perpendicular to the horizon, the software can't decide whether to display the live image as either portrait or landscape. Easily fixed with a simple check box! Or, a grid overlay - which can be displayed on the back of the camera but not on the tethered live view! And why do I need four zeros in the imaging numbering - could I please choose how many zeros I need. And not to mention the convoluted Lightroom folder hierarchy which results in there being a delay of 7 - 10 seconds for a single shot to display. Please Mr image Shuttle Developer, please have a look at the competitions tethering software and give us some basics before you shout how "professional" the SL and S systems are. Or go into a studio and see the workflow requirements by pro studio photographers. The SL has beautiful IQ and it saddens me I have to pick the right sort of jobs to use it where I don't require anything from the software other than to look at the live image. I can't migrate my clients that are used to the Hasselblad Phocus experience to the Leica experience because it is such a retrograde step in software features. Anyone agree? Grant
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I am having a difficult time with zone focussing for street photography. I am using SL with Zeiss 35mm f1.4 ZM. Initially I tried with f1.4 and changing focus for each shot. While it did give good results, but not fast enough to capture the scene. Next, I tried f8 and f11 at 1/125s and 1/250s with zone focussing...with 1.2m set on the left side (closest distance in focus), which gave me an in-focus distance between 1.2~2.5 m @ f8 and 1.2~3.0 @ f11. Also, tried electronic shutter always on and always off (not much difference to the image, but silent shutter is useful). Then I tried setting infinity scale on the right side @ f8 & f11, but the min focus distance is more than 2.5m. I have two issues: (a) images are not sharp even at 1/250s; and ( how to switch quickly between shallow dof and wide dof quickly? I would appreciate any inputs on what settings seems to work for you. I am new to street photography, and have no experience with RF cameras and quite slow with MF lenses. Finally, will optical VF attachment help for street photography with SL?
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Werte Forums Mitglieder, Gibt es bei euch überzeugte Benützer eines optischen Suchers (OVF) wie einer SLR, DSLR oder gar dem Meßsucher der M, welche sich mit dem EyeRes-Sucher der SL (EVF) anfreunden konnten, zufrieden sind und nicht das Gefühl haben ständig auf einen Mini Bildschirm zu starren, oder gibt es jemanden welcher es eventuell deswegen bereut hat auf die SL umzusteigen und sich wieder nach einen optischen Sucher zurücksehnt ? Gruß Andi
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