Search the Community
Showing results for tags '50'.
Found 15 results
-
Best in "M mount lenses up fo f/1" class for wide open performance. This well-corrected night owl in M mount which delivers superior performance - higher than any 50 Noctilux by Leica - is surprisingly easy to focus and to nail the subject wide open due to its generous focus throw. The lens' form factor strongly resembles Canon 50mm f/0.95 "Dream Lens", but is a "new age new me, perfected and improved" version of this unrelated classic - a completely newly developed standard lens of only 484g and equipped with double-sided aspherical element and a newly perfected grinding aspherical front element, according to Cosina. A joy to use wide open, the Nokton 50/1.0 sets its own standard in ultra fast M mount lenses. Unfortunately, there are heavy sample variations of the Nokton 50/1.0. A perfect copy should be intensely sharp, well centered and beautiful even wide open, with some price to pay in the CA department under certain conditions (not even the much more expensive Noctiluxes are immune to that). THIS IS A THREAD FOR YOUR VOIGTLANDER NOKTON 50/1.0 PHOTOS. Preferrably wide open, but any f-stop will do. Write the aperture and camera used. Thank you for your contributions.
- 122 replies
-
- 6
-
-
- voigtlander
- nokton
- (and 4 more)
-
WIDE OPEN ONLY! Please post the images of the amazing original Summilux 50/1.4 ASPH at Peter Karbe's favorite f-stop: wide open.
-
Na gut, dann mal Kaviar: Grüße von Kalle
-
Paris 20e, pl. Gambetta; M240 50 'lux pre-Asph LTM
-
I recently purchased a brand new unopened 50 summilux f/1.4 asph lens in silver and when I unpackaged it I noticed a clear liquid on the outside barrel of the lens. I was able to wipe it off but wondered what it was? And whether I should exchange the lens for a different one? Inside the lens it looks fine at the moment and not sure if liquid would have seeped inside. Just wandered if anyone had a similar experience. I want to make sure nothing is wrong with the lens since I spent 4K on it.
-
Street Musician, Piccadilly, London
-
Leica T + 50mm f/1.4 Summilux-M ASPH ISO 400, f1.4, 1/160 "Illuminated Humans"
-
Hallo zusammen, ich bin gerade dabei mir eine digitale M zuzulegen. Hier ist mir ein 50er Cron von 1998 mit angeboten worden. Jetzt weis ich nicht, ob dieses Glas besser/anders/wie anders abbildet, als mein 1961er Cron von meiner M3. Sind die Unterschiede (soweit vorhanden) so sifignikant, dass sich der zusätzliche Erwerb des 1998er Cron rechnet/anbietet/aufdrängt? VG jnero
-
I am a bit lost with what i have read about the radioactive summis. What is the deal with them? Are they more trouble than they are worth because of the browning? How about resale? Do people avoid them? -
Hi all. I always want to take photos, and I try to bring always the camera with me, to shoot and be happy 🙂. Sometimes, due to the pandemic, it's not the right moment to shoot, mainly because many people in Mexico don't care and don't wear a mask. I don't want to risk just for the pleasure of doing some street photography. Does it make sense? Every time I do out, I bring the camera with me, and while driving (in a safe way), I shoot from the window of my car at 30km/h approx. I use hyperfocal, practically point & shoot. When I'm lucky, my wife (and sometimes even my old dog) join me. And I don't drive 😂 but shoot 🙌 Sometimes from the passenger seat, some time on the back of the car. Depending on if you see the lateral rearview mirror, and/or the car frame window in the composition. Everything happens so fast, the car can't stop, and I have to focus quickly. I used zone focusing sometimes, and sometimes manually, depending on the situation. I would like to share with you this micro essay, to show a portrait of a Mexican city during these times, to use more my M10, in pursuit of mastering focus 😬 Sometimes I see a situation with superpotential, where I would love to stop the car and go out and compose well. But this is what the essay is about. Never stops the car and try to tell a story, or take just honest street photography. That's it. M10 + 35mm 2.8 Biogon + 50 Cron V + Photo Mechanic + Capture One + JpegMini P.s. You can see my gray pick up car in the photos sometimes 🤷♂️ Good vibes
-
Please share your opinion - if you have used or owned both lenses or any opinion on the topic. Mostly interested in comparison of render, sharpness, bokeh, pop etc. according to you - digital sensor or film. Early reports indicated the Hexanons were inferior. According to LHSA "some Hexanon early samples were reported to have focusing discrepancies, long since resolved, and that adversely affected initial sales. The current consensus: Konica KM and Leica M lenses, even those with longer focal lengths and wider apertures, can be used interchangeably on both cameras without problems." Lots of posts ot the tiny flange difference between the cameras, but here we discuss the lens. Mr. Rockwell even went as far as comparing the build of Summicron 50 (V) to the Hexanon-M 50 side by side and they indeed look almost identical. Check the pic on his webpage under the Hexanon topic. I have recently acquired a Hexanon-M 50/2 (photographed below on my M) and it is a stellar performer, slightly better wide open (especially corners) compared to Summicron M 50/2 (IV) in all the tests I did. YMMV.
-
Hi everyone, I own a Summicron 50mm V2 DR and Type 1. I know the lens head should be detachable from the focusing mechanism in order to mount on bellows. This works correctly on the Type 1, but on the DR, when I turn the lens head, only the section housing the front elements rotates, thus revealing the aperture blades inside once removed, instead of detaching all elements in one block. I could try bypassing this section by rotating the aperture ring, but this feels unsafe as rotating the ring with force might damage the blades inside. I hope I've explained this clearly enough - not sure if anyone has a solution? I'm trying to remove the lens head on both lenses in order to swap them out, since the DR optics are cleaner but I prefer the size of the Type 1. (P.S. I'm not the type to attempt lens repair/cleaning myself, but this is a function built into the lens by Leica) Thanks in advance
-
Hey dear Leica community, I recently got two offers for two Leica cameras. The first one is a Leicaflex (The original one, no TTL) with a Summicron 50mm f/2 (V1) and the second offer was a Leica R4 with a 35-70 f/3.5. I even got an offer for a Leica R3 (Made in Germany!) for around the same price. All cameras (inculding the lens) are somewhere from 250€ - 300€ (245$-290$) Which one should I buy, I am very new to the Leica world, since I mainly used Nikon yet. Or should i sell my whole Nikon System to get a Leica M camera? Greetings from Germany
-
Had to do a few quick & dirty street tests with both lenses side by side- the "regular" Summilux 50 ASPH (my version is 11892) and the "Black Chrome" special-edition-becoming-regular-edition Summilux 50 ASPH (11688). Rumor out there in several forums has it, the latter (Black Chrome rehoused) lens is somehow sharper, although even Leica themselves claim both have exactly the same glass. All comparisons were done WIDE OPEN, where the true resolving character of the lens is nested to show differences. All tests done on M10-P Reporter. TL;DR: The lenses are EXACTLY the same, identical sharpness, identical chromatic aberration, identical flares etc. Anyone claiming otherwise must have had a bad copy of his original lux 50 ASPH when comparing the two against each other.
